Just want to input a little info for those who are thinking of trying to use the Mavic or any DJI drone for the upcoming Solar eclipse here in the US.
Do Not try to do this, during the partial phase of the eclipse you will need an ND 10 stop filter ( which is 100,000 time darker than the clear lens cover that is standard to the Mavic ) recommended ND Filter is a ND 300-600. You might get away with it during the totality period of darkness which will last only 2-6 minutes depending on where you are, but the second that period ends it could be all over for your camera.

The sun emits UV & IFR wave lengths that will destroy the CCD in the camera before you even realize it.
I will not be using any of my DJI drones for this, rather opting for a Nikon DSLR, Tripod with the correct filter.

Just a forcast but I can see it now.

New Thread:  "Camera will not work after Solar Eclipse"

I have filmed the sun many times without issue, but it has been lower in the sky due to the gimbal angle restriction. Either way the eclipse will happen beyond the 30 degree limit of the gimbal.

I shoot the sun all the time.  No noticeable damage yet after 25 hours flight.  Can you source your information please?  I'd be happy to know I'm doing something wrong if I am.

The camera is a Sony IMX based CMOS sensor.. the sensor is in an ideal world already using a hybrid IR filter laminated directly over the sensor, the build in glass  between sensor and the outer lens already filters out A lot of UV, not all, but UV will not damage it..   and IR likely won’t either.. it likely get very dark as it tries to compensate..  I said ideally because I don’t know if DJi ordered semi custom and using plastic lenses between sensors out putter glass lens.. or is they remov d the IR filtering lamination for better low light preformqnc


As for if someone should use Drone during eciplse..  I don’t reccomend it but I say similar risk to flying your drone through heavy stream off a tower... or under a tight bridge...  high risk because you won’t be able to see much if anything and 3D sensors will be just as blind... if it crashes because of that that’s user error not dji error.. getting that fixed is on you..

Tombolian Posted at 2017-8-15 16:09
I shoot the sun all the time.  No noticeable damage yet after 25 hours flight.  Can you source your information please?  I'd be happy to know I'm doing something wrong if I am.

Here is where I got my info among others

http://www.mreclipse.com/SEphoto/SEphoto.html
A solar filter must be used on the lens throughout the partial phases for both photography and safe viewing. Such filters are most easily obtained through manufacturers and dealers listed in Sky & Telescope and Astronomy magazines. These filters typically attenuate the Sun’s visible and infrared energy by a factor of 100,000. The actual filter factor and choice of ISO speed, however, will play critical roles in determining the correct photographic exposure. Almost any ISO can be used because the Sun gives off abundant light. The easiest method for determining the correct exposure is accomplished by running a calibration test on the uneclipsed Sun. Shoot a roll of film of the mid-day Sun at a fixed aperture (f/8 to f/16) using every shutter speed from 1/1000s to 1/4s. After the film is developed, note the best exposures and use them to photograph all the partial phases. With a digital camera, the process is even easier. Just shoot a range of different exposures and use the camera's histogram display to evaluate the best exposure. The Sun’s surface brightness remains constant throughout the eclipse, so no exposure compensation is needed except for the narrow crescent phases, which require two more stops due to solar limb darkening. Bracketing by several stops is also necessary if haze or clouds interfere on eclipse day.

QuadKid Posted at 2017-8-15 16:22
Here is where I got my info among others

http://www.mreclipse.com/SEphoto/SEphoto.html

You forgot this part;
The easiest method for determining the correct exposure is accomplished by running a calibration test on the uneclipsed Sun. Shoot a roll of film of the mid-day Sun at a fixed aperture (f/8 to f/16) using every shutter speed from 1/1000s to 1/4s. After the film is developed, note the best exposures and use them to photograph all the partial phases. With a digital camera, the process is even easier. Just shoot a range of different exposures and use the camera's histogram display to evaluate the best exposure.

You should really do some reading before "advising".

A solar eclipse does not make the sun to emit more rays or make those rays any more "harmful" than on any other day. If fact, less rays are reaching the earth because of, you know, eclipse. So, ANY time you use ANY camera in the daytime and point it towards the sun, should, by your advise, damage it - but it doesn't.  Why?

The whole hysteria of "do not look directly at the solar eclipse" is not unfounded, but often interpreted incorrectly. The bottom line is: NEVER look directly at the sun, especially through a telescope, as it will damage your retina. With full sun out, it is actually hard to look at the sun directly as your body protects you from that (bright light - squinting). During a solar eclipse with most of sun rays blocked, it is much easier to look at the sun but the rays that do reach the earth are still harmful and will cause damage to eye retina with enough time. Many use telescopes, binoculars, and other optical tools to enhance their solar eclipse experience but not all realize that those tools are simple .... lenses. Have you ever made a fire by concentrating sunlight with a lens? So you know what happens. So, looking at a solar eclipse directly through a telescope or other lenses is the same thing.

So, what you should've said is this: do not use lenses to concentrate sunrays on the camera of your Mavic durung a solar eclipse or any other time as it will damage it. Filming sun any other time, including during solar eclipses, is just a matter of fining a correct filter to get the right exposure.

Learn before you preach.    Also, the camera on your drone has a wide angle lens on it.  The image of the sun will be very small, so why bother.  Launch several minutes before totality and stop when gets low on battery.  Since totality only last about 3 minutes max, you should be able to get the whole thing, seeing artificial "sunset" and "sunrise".  There are lots of good prediction maps online.  The totality path starts on the west coast of Oregon and crosses out the eastern side of South Carolina a couple of hours later, crossing the U.S. at nearly 1800 MPH.  It's pretty close to noon in this area, so actually pointing at the sun will be impossible with a drone, even if you did want to.

Good grief! I specialize in taking sunrise, sunset, and solar and cloud pictures daily with my Mini 3. It's kind of my thing. Of course the suns angle is low to the horizon most of the time. But I also fly FPV and have met the sun head on many times at a much higher angle I think. No damage so far.