Hi,

It's about PHANTOM 4 PRO and Only PRO !
I'm thinking about using LUT and recording in DLOG to improve my editing process. At the moment I only use CINELIKE...
That's why I feel interesting to know what color profil you use to record with, and also please let argue or explanation, or any comment ! =)
If you use both, it means you use LUT for DLOG and no LUT for Cinelike?

I use both and offent I do my own color corrections without the
use of premade LUT's
Even if you use the premade LUT's you have to do some additional
ajustments.

I use both but mainly cinelike out of those two options

today with Mavic Pro Platinum I prefer use VIVID mode

D-Log all day long... Ha


Surprised you asked. ;-)
Whoops, Phantom 3 Pro here, and only Pro!! Haha

RedHotPoker

In-camera D-LOG looks so washed out,

AvatarAir Posted at 2018-3-27 11:15
In-camera D-LOG looks so washed out,

Yes, it is intended to look like that. You are expected to know how to post-process the images.

Cinelike, so if i cant be asked to do post, at least it looks somewhere near reasonable lol

doing it in DLOG is amazing if you WANT to spend the time.

CineLike is so good, there is almost no reason to. And amazingly it is matching up in color pretty well with Canon, so I've learned my mistake. Why make more work for myself?


Here is what i'm talking about -   - when i did my test flights i left it in CineLIke and the colors popped. You can see me struggling to make the DLog match up in this video.

I always shoot in cinelike but I'd shoot in d-log if I could do so at the ISO value of my choosing. I know why they lock at 500 and understand why, it's just annoying. So I use cinelike which is good but I don't like how the edges of radiance from lights or bright objects gets exaggerated in cinelike, but hey, there's always Pr, and I can set the ISO manually at least.

Andie_the_Lab Posted at 2018-3-29 06:08
doing it in DLOG is amazing if you WANT to spend the time.

CineLike is so good, there is almost no reason to. And amazingly it is matching up in color pretty well with Canon, so I've learned my mistake. Why make more work for myself?

That all seems like a lot of hard work, good luck with all that.

Forced to use D-Cinelike with all -3.

Does anyone know of any good YT video explaining how to use D-Log? From start to end of process.

I haven't much success with it and I'm sure it's my fault.

DNR 1 Posted at 2018-4-23 11:11
Does anyone know of any good YT video explaining how to use D-Log? From start to end of process.

I haven't much success with it and I'm sure it's my fault.

Color manipulation, details, sharpness and which give the more natural look.

Since I'm accustomed to using S-log on CineAlta 35mm cinema cameras, I realized immediately that the only way to get close to the full potential of the sensor is to use D-Log. So I've been shooting that exclusively and hand grading it in CS6.

DNR 1 Posted at 2018-4-23 11:11
Does anyone know of any good YT video explaining how to use D-Log? From start to end of process.

I haven't much success with it and I'm sure it's my fault.

try this -

Aerial-Image Posted at 2018-6-20 08:48
try this - https://youtu.be/Rrxq7x8U7HM

I know that one as well and quite like it.
His explanation for Cinelike over D-Log makes sense to me.

I use D-Cinelike and I made my own LUT"s for different well....mostly white balance settings.

Simple - D-Cinelike - with -1,-1,-1 across the camera settings for sharpness, contrast, saturation. do the rest in post...

AvatarAir Posted at 2018-3-27 11:15
In-camera D-LOG looks so washed out,

thats exactly the point. It captures more data for flexbility in post

Bluras.com Posted at 4-6 10:38
Forced to use D-Cinelike with all -3.

I'm beyond belief that someone would consciously reduce sharpness and intentionally lose detail which you can never recover in post. You can always soften the image in post but you can't recover those important details which you may need/want. Insane.

I use DLOG with PolarPro LUT, very easy to use in Adobe Premiere, but i will also try to use D-Cinelike as the ISO500 is not suitable for me when I switch to still photography, in Video there is no issue with ISO500

Mostly D-Log with the P4PRO to rec 709 lut from Davinici Resolve 15, then manually tweaked with the colour wheels.

Irrelevant.

I use D-log and hand grade in Premiere Pro. Would love to know if there is a precise technical LUT for the P4P camera's D-log mode, specifically. I have tried various LUTs that were alleged to be for the P4P, but the results were so far off as to not be even in the same ballpark. I use an S-curve in Lumetri to get close to the compensated curve. It works most of the time, but in some conditions, it seems like the upper mid tones lack contrast. Would love to have a proper LUT made just for this camera and shooting mode.

I use D-log and hand grade in Premiere Pro. Would love to know if there is a precise technical LUT for the P4P camera's D-log mode, specifically. I have tried various LUTs that were alleged to be for the P4P, but the results were so far off as to not be even in the same ballpark. I use an S-curve in Lumetri to get close to the compensated curve. It works most of the time, but in some conditions, it seems like the upper mid tones lack contrast. Would love to have a proper LUT made just for this camera and shooting mode.

gyrex Posted at 2018-11-3 08:48
I'm beyond belief that someone would consciously reduce sharpness and intentionally lose detail which you can never recover in post. You can always soften the image in post but you can't recover those important details which you may need/want. Insane.

There is a very good reason to reduce sharpness on record. I have done multiple side by side tests to verify the concept, and post sharpening produces better detail. Why? Because high frequency detail breaks the CODEC. Once the quantizing error reaches the point of data loss, that is detail you've lost permanently. I found that rolling back the sharpness during recording and then applying sharpening in post, recovers details I cannot record with pre-sharpening. It also reduces 'dot crawl' that occurs when flying over forests of bare trees, or any scene with a large amount of fine edge detail that is likely to overload the CODEC.

Use D-Cinelike, because of using it also on Mavic Air, Sony A7R3 and Osmo Pocket. One profile, easy color matching and grading (FCPX).

They are almost identical..cinelike has a bit of colors more..just take the same shot and look at the histogram ..
Cinelike brings down a bit the left side of the histogram and up the right side..so d-log will result is more grey, both will need post production thoug!

Mark Weiss Posted at 2019-4-13 21:56
There is a very good reason to reduce sharpness on record. I have done multiple side by side tests to verify the concept, and post sharpening produces better detail. Why? Because high frequency detail breaks the CODEC. Once the quantizing error reaches the point of data loss, that is detail you've lost permanently. I found that rolling back the sharpness during recording and then applying sharpening in post, recovers details I cannot record with pre-sharpening. It also reduces 'dot crawl' that occurs when flying over forests of bare trees, or any scene with a large amount of fine edge detail that is likely to overload the CODEC.

and there is so much that can fit in 100mbit gop codec.finally some sense and when you see footage of for example rooftops on +3 sharpness, makes you wanna jump off the cliff

cinelike tbh