Big Wave Surfing Jaws / Peahi Maui, January 14, 2018. Video in 4K by PureDIGITALMaui.
Please note there are at least two Phantoms and at least one Inspire recording the surfers. This is also a year old video. The waves are 20-30 feet (Hawai'ian); generally good conditions.
OK, well I am not as young as it might take to survive those conditions. BTW, if you cannot hold your breath for 3 minutes, you have no business being out there. Such a person would also be a serious risk for anyone who has to make a rescue.
But, then again, you can love big waves and use the energy of big waves to your advantage. And in that respect, age does have its advantages.