Okay... think I've "kind" figured something out.

I have to P3A's - one of them doesn't work connecting to my iPad.

Plugged the iPad into the other one - the iPad automatically turns on. Plugged it into the non-working one, nothing happens.

So I suspect the USB on my one remote is no longer working. I haven't used either P3A for about a year - and wanted to know - so it's kind of lame that one of the remotes stopped working. How do I fix that?

If I buy the HDMI thing ($99) - does that simply replace the existing back? Or - is there something else I can do without having to pay $$$ and just fix it myself?

Thanks

Yes, installing the HDMI module would replace your exidting USB ports.  See here;

If you feel comforable opening up your controller you could give the existing board a look over.  Possibly you could see anything, bad solder joints or broken trace, before buying a HDMI module.  If so, you could buy a USB replacement from Digikey to solder on.

Hi -

Thanks for the replies.

Okay - I'm going to try this. Found a "USB -> MicroUSB", sadly will take about 2 weeks to get... BUT... I'll try that - and see if plugging it in the other end works. If not - I may buy the HDMI module.

Other questino though - seems DJI is "out of stock" for new remotes... Do you know anywhere I could buy a new remote (and I am assuming I can install the same firmware I have - as opposed to "upgrading" to new firmware?)

Thanks very much!

djiguy001 Posted at 2017-8-25 11:33
Hi -

Thanks for the replies.

Sounds like your going to try to connect your Ipad to the controller thru the Micro USB port with an adapter cable.  That's not going to work, the micro USB is for firmware upgrades

Phantom One Posted at 2017-8-25 11:48
Sounds like your going to try to connect your Ipad to the controller thru the Micro USB port with an adapter cable.  That's not going to work, the micro USB is for firmware upgrades

Oh. You 100% sure about that? Because yes, that is what I was going to do...

The USB itself doesn't seem to work.

djiguy001 Posted at 2017-8-25 13:08
Oh. You 100% sure about that? Because yes, that is what I was going to do...

The USB itself doesn't seem to work.

Pretty sure about that..  although I've never plugged into it to try myself.

Well I sure don't know where I read that the micro USB is for firmware upgrades, I sure cant find it now.  All I can find is the standard USB port can be used for firmware upgrades. Not sure what micro USB port is for.. sorry

Well - I 'kind' of got back off. One of the screws had been - not sure what you call it - but 'scraped' out such that the hex screwdriver had nothing to grab onto. (Not sure if one of the times I had it in for repair someone accidentally or deliberately did that - but only 3 out of the 4 screws would come off).

I was able to see the back - as far as I could tell - nothing was loose or had been 'popped' out... So it's really strange why the USB doesn't seem to be registering. (I've tried hooking up multiple/different iPads - but none of the seem to 'register'/automatically turn on when I turn on the RC)...

Any other ideas?

Thanks!

djiguy001 Posted at 2017-8-25 17:06
Well - I 'kind' of got back off. One of the screws had been - not sure what you call it - but 'scraped' out such that the hex screwdriver had nothing to grab onto. (Not sure if one of the times I had it in for repair someone accidentally or deliberately did that - but only 3 out of the 4 screws would come off).

I was able to see the back - as far as I could tell - nothing was loose or had been 'popped' out... So it's really strange why the USB doesn't seem to be registering. (I've tried hooking up multiple/different iPads - but none of the seem to 'register'/automatically turn on when I turn on the RC)...

Are you using the same cable for both controllers?  If so, I would guess it's the USB port also.  I don't know but possibly you have 2 different revisions of controllers?

I know my Ipad won't work on mine (P3P) but I believe it's because the Ipad is very old.

Also, do you have another device you can try with the controller that's not working with the Ipad?

The ribbon cable connecting the USB module is super sensitive to bending then breaking conductor lines # 5 and 6. If you didn't remove the module to put the ribbon cable back in and used tweezers to replace the cable you most likely broke the super thin conductors on pins 5 and 6. Those are the DATA+ and DATA- conductors for USB. The good news is that all you need do is find someone who sells a 32 pin .5mm pitch ribbon cable. I found one on ebay. Search eBay for "DJI Phantom 3/4 controller ribbon cable P00627.01 Con to Main board ". Or buy the delicate original cable from an authorized dealer and don't use tweezers or any other tool while connecting that ribbon cable and have the circuit boards removed while you insert and clip the retainers down on the ribbon cable for the original equipment ribbon cable. *takes 3 weeks from these guys https://innovativeuas.com/produc ... n-board-flat-cable/ or it only takes a few days for the one on eBay. So the "Non Original DJI Brand" cable on eBay is a little longer, yes and it is not norrow so it can't fit between the stick controllers. That's not a problem, just roll the cable from the main board connector back downwards towards the bottom of the remote control then roll it upwards and slip it through the slot going to the USB control board. There is plenty of space between the circuit board and the battery for a half loop of this ribbon cable to reside. The eBay 10 cm longer and wider cable is of a MUCH STURDIER and solid thick copper trace design and can take the rolling bends and even a little abuse if you're clumsy with it. Where as a slight fold in the DJI original cable or trying to position it in place with tweezers or needle nose pliers causes the traces for the USB data pins 5 and 6 to break internally and that is why you are here reading my post.

Hi MrDave -

Thanks for the response.

Actually - I never replaced the back myself (or event took it apart) - I had sent it into DJI for repairs a couple times though, so I am wondering if they did something.
I 'believe' when I had gotten it back about a year ago - it worked fine. Just I haven't used this machine for about a year - went to fire it up - and no signal...

I did "just now" take it apart (the USB module part) - to see if I could see anything - used my fingers for attaching (no pliers) - but couldn't notice anything signifcant that would seem to make a difference.

But - are you saying that I might actually have to take apart the actual *remote* itself (not just the back USB portion) - and replace this cable in order to get it to work? (I was thinking of buying a new USB backing, but can't seem to find anything other than the $100 HDMI module DJI sells).

Thanks

I would recommend you to send it in for diagnosis via support.us@dji.com.

Regarding the Ribbon Cable that goes between my HDMI Module and the Main Board on my Pro 3 Controller. I think this cable made have been damaged. None of my devices will charge from Controller USB let alone show any video. After Install I am NOT getting a beeping sound from C1/C2 as shown in video. Do I have a defective cable? How can I prove that for sure before replacing or going down the firmware road? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!!

Dry joints where the USB socket is soldered onto the circuit board is a fairly common problem and easy to fix. Had it, fixed it!
Search Youtube, there are ,loads of videos to take you through it - at least check this out before investing money!!

If I remember correctly on the GL300A's and posssibly the B's isn't there a chip on the USB board  that can go wonky if its not used for some time?
I can't remember if the USB boards are interchangable across the GL300 A, B & C range, perhaps someone could comment on that.
Djiguy001 with regards to replacing things,  don't go overboard when tighten ANY of the screws. The 3 screws that secure the USB board can split the standoffs into which they screw and the Allen screws can pull the bottom of their holes in the cover off the cover. I barely nip them up.
If you get the HDMI module make sure the metal surrounds of the various ports are actually lined up with the holes in the outer shell, some of them seem to be slightly off, enough that the shell needs manipulating to get surrounds into the openings.