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Fpvlr signal problem
881 14 2017-12-26
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fansc67e3584
lvl.1
United States
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Hello. I have a phantom 3 standard and it has a nice fpvlr setup. The origional owner says it is the boosted kit. Ive looked inside the remote and everything seems correctly put in. But when ever i fly my dji go app gives me warnings saying “strong interference detected, fly with caustion” or “strong wireles interference, careful flying long distances” ive tried reconnecting the remote and ive calibrated the remote and the drone many times and it wont go over 1000 feet. When the forms says its supose to go atleast 7 miles (i think) any answers help. Im really struggling. It has three antennas one tallish + one and two circle dome antennas and one 5.8gh amp and one 2.4. It has two batteries fully charged and three wires connected to the remote with the origional antenna tooken off. Ive looked at the website and i am stumped. Please help
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2017-12-26
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Kneepuck
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Flight distance : 275102 ft
United States
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Well.  For starters, the P3Standard does use 5.8 ghz for transmitting  control signal to the aircraft.  However, the 2.4 ghz is only to recieve video and telemetry from the aircraft.  So I am not sure what purpose the 2.4 ghz amp is serving.  Next,  even  though you are using amplifiers, they are still directional.  So must be pointed in the direction of the aircraft to work.  Now, do you still have the ability to control the aircraft when this condition occurs?  
What I suspect is, the signal loss you are experiencing is the FPV and aircraft telemetry.  Does the Phantom go into RTH?  The reason I think you are having issues is the 2.4 ghz amp.  Think about it.  The aircraft is transmitting FPV and telemetry to the r/c at 2.4ghz.  The r/c is going to have trouble recieving that signal, because there is an amplifier right next to it that is transmitting a 2.4ghz signal.  Possibly the only reason it works at all is because they may not be on the same channel, so there is some seperation.  
I would try removing the 2.4 ghz amplifier.  Either connect the input to the r/c to the internal flat panels or to the external flat panels directly, without the amp.  Or hell, even just do not power up the 2.4 ghz amp.  It may pass through fine.  Try it and see what happens.  Let us know the results.  And remember to keep the antenna pointed at the aircraft.  How much does that setup weight, anyway?
Edit: after checking out the website for this system, I am pretty sure I am correct.  You see, this system is intended for the Phantom  4 series.  Phantom 4's have the option of transmitting on either 2.4ghz or 5.8ghz.  User selectable.  The Phantom 3 Standard is fixed at 2.4ghz recieved signal and 5.8ghz transmitted signal.  So, lose the amp.  It's doing you no good and is probable the source of the problem.

I have an amp I use on my Standard sometimes.  It is 5.8ghz.  I use a regular dipole antenna.  With this setup, I can fly out to the limits of the battery and never lose control signal.


2017-12-26
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Mark The Droner
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Flight distance : 2917 ft
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Sorry - but with all due respect, I can't agree with the above post.  I've been using the above setup for over two years and it works wonderfully.  The only difference between mine and this one is the polarity.  I use linear.  I had used circular polarity but found I had better luck with linear polarity which is to say vertical polarity.  The set up with one 5.8 amp and one or two 2.4 amp(s) is the classic set up and has been used with the P2V series for a very long time - probably since 2014 at least.  The P3S works exactly the same way.  

There are dozens and dozens of threads on the phantompilots forum discussing this - going back three years at least.  It works and it works well.  

I know this doesn't solve your problem, but I can assure you it's not the amps unless the amps are bad.  

I looked at the inputs and they all look good.  

Are you sure you're aiming correctly?  

I am not a big fan of FPVLR, and most experienced pilots gave up on that antenna in early to mid 2016 in favor of ITELITE.  Itelite uses vertical polarity which is already set up to work with the antennas on the AC.  First thing I would do is get rid of the FPVLR and get the ITELITE.  Don't take my word for it though.  Do your research using ITELITE and FPVLR as keywords and see what has been said from experienced pilots over the past couple years.  



2017-12-26
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fansc67e3584
lvl.1
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Thank you both for the help. Im an trying some these ideas. I will let you know what happens!
2017-12-26
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Mark The Droner
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Flight distance : 2917 ft
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Sorry - I didn't have time for a longer post earlier.  Family stuff going on around here...

That little 5 turn 5.8 helical is not really designed for long distance.  It's better for short distance with a wide beam width and minimal interference.  The fact that you're still getting interference suggests you're in town.  If you wanted long distance and you wanted to stick with a CP antenna, you should go with a longer helical antenna - an extreme example would be the supercannon made by IBCrazy combined with a tripod.  The supercannon is a 16 turn (the more turns, the tighter the beam width but the further the beam distance).  But ideally you'd have a matching CP antenna on the AC.  That's a lot of bother and a lot of expense, but I know a guy who got great mileage with that 5.8 supercannon.  I believe he got over ten miles.

Still - if it was me, I'd go with the ITELITE.  I use the dbs for the 5.8 and the maxrange for the 2.4.  You can use the same amps you have now if they are any good (I'm not exacty sure - I am a Sunhans fan).  That would get you over 3 miles in the right environment.  If it doesn't, there is something else wrong.  You might have a bad cable or a bad connection that's invisible to the naked eye, for example.  You might have a kinked cable inside the controller.  I've heard people complain about those thick cables because they cause stress at the connection.  You might consider the thinner shielded braided copper cable which is a lot more flexible.  If you do have a bad cable or bad connection, you'd have to replace each cable one at a time until you found the bad one.  Or just redo the whole thing.  

As far as the two 2.4 antennas, those are connected to switching transceivers.  Either one works or the other works.  It automatically switches to whatever of the two 2.4 transceivers has the best connection.  It works the same way the 2.4 transceiver on the AC works.  It switches.  One will transmit.  Then one will receive.  One will do one or the other, or one will do both, but not both at once.  So there is no interference with itself in that manner.  It is a two way signal which means it requires a two way amp.  The 5.8 amp amplifies the transmission of the control signal.  The 2.4 amp amplifies the receiving end of the FPV/telemetry, and also amplifies the transmission of the 2.4 signal back to the AC because all wifi is two-way.  Wifi by definition is a two way signal system.  The two way amp improves the strength of both the incoming and outgoing signal.  

Lightbridge is a completely different system.  

Good luck.
2017-12-26
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Kneepuck
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Flight distance : 275102 ft
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Mark The Droner Posted at 2017-12-26 12:51
Sorry - but with all due respect, I can't agree with the above post.  I've been using the above setup for over two years and it works wonderfully.  The only difference between mine and this one is the polarity.  I use linear.  I had used circular polarity but found I had better luck with linear polarity which is to say vertical polarity.  The set up with one 5.8 amp and one 2.4 amp is the classic set up and has been used with the P2V series for a very long time - probably since 2014 at least.  The P3S works exactly the same way.  

There are dozens and dozens of threads on the phantompilots forum discussing this - going back three years at least.  It works and it works well.  

How does a 2.4ghz amp on the fpv side help?  Unless it amplifies the recieved signal and feeds it to the r/c.  Not questioning your knowledge, but as a 35 year rf tech, I'm curious.
2017-12-26
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Mark The Droner
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Flight distance : 2917 ft
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Yes, that's right.  A good analogy would be a hearing aide.  ;-)  

And btw, two amps on the lightbridge system would work well too, even though one side only transmits and one side only receives.  On the P3A/P for example, you'd use two 2.4 amps.  It gets tricky with the P4 because that one can switch frequencies.  
2017-12-26
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Kneepuck
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Flight distance : 275102 ft
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Mark The Droner Posted at 2017-12-26 15:45
Sorry - I didn't have time for a longer post earlier.  Family stuff going on around here...

That little 5 turn 5.8 helical is not really designed for long distance.  It's better for short distance with a wide beam width and minimal interference.  The fact that you're still getting interference suggests you're in town.  If you wanted long distance and you wanted to stick with a CP antenna, you should go with the supercannon made by IBCrazy combined with a tripod.  The supercannon is a 16 turn.  But ideally you'd have a matching CP antenna on the AC.  That's a lot of bother and a lot of expense, but I know a guy who got 19.4 miles distance with that supercannon.  

At what point does the r/c transmit 2.4ghz on the Standard?  And for what purpose?
2017-12-26
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Mark The Droner
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Flight distance : 2917 ft
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There's a "check" that takes place to ensure the received data is correct.  All wifi systems are two way systems.  
2017-12-26
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fansc67e3584
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Nothings working. I tried disconnecting the 2.4. Have nothing left to try? Any ideas that dont cost alot of money? I only have 30 dollars to spend :/ thanks for the help guys. I need to do something. I just got ripped off by a seller. Online. Idk what to do
2017-12-26
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fansc67e3584
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I know the problems in the remote cause it says poor connection between rc and drone im pretty sure
2017-12-26
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Mark The Droner
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Flight distance : 2917 ft
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I would take a drive way out in the country away from everything and test again in an open environment.  Good luck.
2017-12-27
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Zippo43
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Flight distance : 387126 ft
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Kneepuck Posted at 2017-12-26 11:30
Well.  For starters, the P3Standard does use 5.8 ghz for transmitting  control signal to the aircraft.  However, the 2.4 ghz is only to recieve video and telemetry from the aircraft.  So I am not sure what purpose the 2.4 ghz amp is serving.  Next,  even  though you are using amplifiers, they are still directional.  So must be pointed in the direction of the aircraft to work.  Now, do you still have the ability to control the aircraft when this condition occurs?  
What I suspect is, the signal loss you are experiencing is the FPV and aircraft telemetry.  Does the Phantom go into RTH?  The reason I think you are having issues is the 2.4 ghz amp.  Think about it.  The aircraft is transmitting FPV and telemetry to the r/c at 2.4ghz.  The r/c is going to have trouble recieving that signal, because there is an amplifier right next to it that is transmitting a 2.4ghz signal.  Possibly the only reason it works at all is because they may not be on the same channel, so there is some seperation.  
I would try removing the 2.4 ghz amplifier.  Either connect the input to the r/c to the internal flat panels or to the external flat panels directly, without the amp.  Or hell, even just do not power up the 2.4 ghz amp.  It may pass through fine.  Try it and see what happens.  Let us know the results.  And remember to keep the antenna pointed at the aircraft.  How much does that setup weight, anyway?

With so much of the amp and antennas hanging away from the RC unit.....i can only imagine it sure takes a lots to hold on to it...plus the battery under the RC unit  as downward weight too !.....no body ever answered what the RC unit weights with the aftermarket goody's    !
2017-12-27
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fansc67e3584
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United States
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Ill have to weigh it but im pretty sure ts heavier than the drone with the props and batterie in
2017-12-29
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Mark The Droner
Captain
Flight distance : 2917 ft
United States
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That's a very valid question - your hands actually get pretty tired after a while holding these modded controllers.  

I just weighed some stuff just now on my postal scale.  

My P3P controller stock is 1 lb 15.2 oz

My P2V+ controller fully mega modded is 4 lbs 15.2 ozs.  haha

My P3P AC w/ battery stock is 2 lbs 13.5 oz

Needless to say, I use a tripod or table when I fly.  



2017-12-30
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