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Camera lense will not unscrew - P3P
444 7 2018-2-26
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solentlife
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Flight distance : 1087530 ft
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I don't actually need to unscrew the stock lens - as I have Neewer Filters which use a slide on holder ...

But it would be nice to be able to remove it for cleaning etc.

About 6 months ago - I am sure I had it unscrewed and I am not one to over-tighten something like that. I know the P3P went to DJI for gimbal and camera repairs after hitting the tree ... so I wonder if this not my old camera and its tight from DJI stock ...

Trying to think of some way to unscrew it ... I tried using the plastic prop tool but was afraid to put too much leverage on ...

Anyone else had this ? How did you solve it ?

Nigel
2018-2-26
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DEUCEDOG
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The  filter housing is very thin and distorts easily  when squeezed , trick is to be light fingered , really light ! and it should undo ?  i  also wear a pair of latex gloves  , this gives better  adhesion for less force .  
Another alternative is to ask the lady of the house to do it , women tend to have a lighter grip  
2018-2-26
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RicardoGray
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Nigel, See post #5 that I replied to.

Lens Filter

They can be tough to remove. Even pressure is the key.

2018-2-26
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solentlife
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Boy oh Boy ... I licked dem fingers and it doggoned worked !

Other day it was absolutely solid .. no movement at all. Today I licked fingers ... wiped away excess and lightly unscrewed the lens.

Thank you.

So next question ... what is the ND rating of the stock lens on the P3P ... reason I ask is that Polar users unscrew this and screw on the Polar filters. While Neewer users like myself slide on the holder with filters and no need to remove stock lens ....

Nigel
2018-2-27
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RicardoGray
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solentlife Posted at 2018-2-27 00:18
Boy oh Boy ... I licked dem fingers and it doggoned worked !

Other day it was absolutely solid .. no movement at all. Today I licked fingers ... wiped away excess and lightly unscrewed the lens.

I don't think the stock lens cover has any ND rating. It might have a slight UV rating, but think it is for the most part just clear, with no effect on the light.
2018-2-27
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Aardvark
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Flight distance : 384432 ft
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solentlife Posted at 2018-2-27 00:18
Boy oh Boy ... I licked dem fingers and it doggoned worked !

Other day it was absolutely solid .. no movement at all. Today I licked fingers ... wiped away excess and lightly unscrewed the lens.

I would go with screw on types, one less thing in front of the camera to potentially distort or change the image. No additional chromatic aberrations introduced.
Another thing I found was just a touch (the merest 'thought') of petroleum jelly on threads helps removal and replacement. The stock filter is a UV filter, which in practice covers about every piece of clear glass.
You chose appropriate ND4, 8, 16 etc to get EV value close to 0 (zero) with shutter set to about half frame rate (30fps, shutter 1/60th for example). 'Generally' on my P4, ND4 for cloudy, ND8 for brighter and ND 16 for really Sunny (in U.K weather terms).
2018-2-27
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Bashy
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solentlife Posted at 2018-2-27 00:18
Boy oh Boy ... I licked dem fingers and it doggoned worked !

Other day it was absolutely solid .. no movement at all. Today I licked fingers ... wiped away excess and lightly unscrewed the lens.

ha, thats the exact same advice i gave to someone either on here on or DGJ FB

The problem is, the are so flimsy that when you go to grab them, when you squeeze it actually makes then tighter, if you apply the lightest touch on 2 opposing sides it will unscrew, if it doesnt, you are applying too much pressure, if your fingers slip then not enough pressure, theres a very fine balance
2018-2-27
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RicardoGray
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Aardvark Posted at 2018-2-27 16:08
I would go with screw on types, one less thing in front of the camera to potentially distort or change the image. No additional chromatic aberrations introduced.
Another thing I found was just a touch (the merest 'thought') of petroleum jelly on threads helps removal and replacement. The stock filter is a UV filter, which in practice covers about every piece of clear glass.
You chose appropriate ND4, 8, 16 etc to get EV value close to 0 (zero) with shutter set to about half frame rate (30fps, shutter 1/60th for example). 'Generally' on my P4, ND4 for cloudy, ND8 for brighter and ND 16 for really Sunny (in U.K weather terms).

I see we agree Aadvark, about those ND filters and also a bit of some type of lubricant on those threads. I am with you too about the threaded ones as opposed to the slip on. Why add any weight to  that gimbal? I know I tried that cone-shaped piece that slips onto the camera, to shadow the sunlight, and it was ok until I can into a little wind and it just caused my gimbal to twitch and do all kinds of crazy stuff to try and keep it straight, which it didn't do. I have never tried it again. Anyway my point is any added weight or anything that will catch more wind is generally not in your best interest in my mind.
2018-2-28
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