Speleo-flyer
lvl.2
United Kingdom
Offline
|
mlamb Posted at 2018-4-4 05:08
I have found its best it use manual mode for panos anyway. Just point the camera at your main subject, use the histogram to get the exposure right, then recompose and take the pano. If you allow the exposure to vary between shots, you may see the seams more when you stitch it together. I had a weird shadow area in one of my panos once, and I'm like where did that come from? I checked the individual photos and saw that it was caused by the exposure changing from shot to shot.
Its not a bad ideal in general either to use manual focus either for panos, that way it stays locked in and you are assurred your subject will be sharp.
Thanks, but that's not a very useful suggestion -- yes, of course that's best for a 'photographic' pano, but as I explained earlier, this is for establishing the environs of the flight -- I simply want a 360 look-around and I want to take that as fast as possible at the start of each flight (and after moving to a new position during the flight). Any time spent fiddling with manual controls is reducing flight time.
And given that the first shot of the pano is directly downwards, that is indeed the 'main subject' for establishing the drone's position, so auto-exposure should be fine. But it's overexposed by 2-3 stops. Unfortunately you cannot tell that until downloading the SD card after the flight -- which is a bit too late. |
|