Trying to remove the screws on the prop mounts but unsure what Torx size to use. Some people say T8 for best fit others say T9. What is the proper size for this screw? Thanks.

It is T9!!!!!!
People that use T8, are actually risking to strip the head, some has actually had great difficulty removing the screw with other means as a result.
I suspect people that has difficulty fitting a T9 driver, has had a slight damage to the driver or the screw-head, therefore not been able to fully seat it into the screw.

When I removed mine, 3 motors had T8 screws and the fourth had T9s.
ALL were very difficult to remove.

This is exactly what I'm talking about. Aeromitrage did you try heating up the screws?
When I put in the T8 it seems to fit perfectly.

So, I started the process using the T9. 2 sets were so loose I'm surprised the propellers hadn't flown off. The other sets are like rock hard steel. I'm going to try a heat gun.

AvatarAir Posted at 2018-4-26 19:01
So, I started the process using the T9. 2 sets were so loose I'm surprised the propellers hadn't flown off. The other sets are like rock hard steel. I'm going to try a heat gun.

I use the I-Fixit TR9 tool bit and it fits perfectly.
Here is some information passed on to me from Florida Drone Supply, copied below

Rich

As others have mentioned and posted about, be careful in the removal of the DJI mounting brackets.  The thread locker used on those bolts is very strong and some clients have striped their bolt heads because of the way they attempted to remove it.  Here are a couple tips:

1.  Use a high quality tori driver with a good tight fit.
2.  Apply some heat to the bolt head to warm up the threads and help break the thread locker free.  Hair dryers and soldering irons have been the most common methods.  Just be careful.
3.  Use slow consistent pressure while turning the tori driver.  Sudden sharp pressure has resulted in a couple bolts that have broken in half.  While its not common it is something to be careful of.

Cougar1 Posted at 2018-4-26 18:08
It is T9!!!!!!
People that use T8, are actually risking to strip the head, some has actually had great difficulty removing the screw with other means as a result.
I suspect people that has difficulty fitting a T9 driver, has had a slight damage to the driver or the screw-head, therefore not been able to fully seat it into the screw.

Cougar

see my post # 6 for future reference

Rich

I'm afraid I will need to confirm with our engineers, will come back to you soon.

Thanks for your patience, I have confirmed with our engineers and T7 is recommended, please note.

DJI Mindy Posted at 2018-4-27 00:55
Thanks for your patience, I have confirmed with our engineers and T7 is recommended, please note.

Mindy, we know they don't like people work on the I2 by them selfs.

But you are not removing any propeller hub with a T7 driver.

Cougar1 Posted at 2018-4-27 03:16
Mindy, we know they don't like people work on the I2 by them selfs.

But you are not removing any propeller hub with a T7 driver.

lol Yeah, T9 on mine the other week, 7's wouldn't even touch the sides.

RichJ53 Posted at 2018-4-26 20:59
Cougar

see my post # 6 for future reference

Thanx Rich, yes that is what I found as well, on my first Inspire (way back) I had to actually heat the tip of the driver, to get the screw loose.

The TR9 you are referring to, is a bit for security screws (with a hole in the centre of the bit), that is for security crews, but can still be used, since it is a T9 bit.

Have a great day, my friend.

DJI Mindy Posted at 2018-4-27 00:55
Thanks for your patience, I have confirmed with our engineers and T7 is recommended, please note.

Mindy,
Is this the Chinese size of which you speak? Because no one anyone, ever, said to use a T7. Can you please double check that size? Thanks!

So, I'm having a devil of a time with these other sets. I used the heat gun on low setting for 30 seconds and it wouldn't budge. Used it again at high setting for about 20 setting and it won't budge. But the motor got very hot. I'm paranoid about melting something. Any suggestions? There's got to be a way to do this.

Yeah, so I've totally F*** it.  Melted the mount. Got one screw out of the mount the other will not budge and it's stripped. I really need some advice. Thanks.

AvatarAir Posted at 2018-4-27 12:56
Yeah, so I've totally F*** it.  Melted the mount. Got one screw out of the mount the other will not budge and it's stripped. I really need some advice. Thanks.

Yikes. If that screw is stripped then you are pretty much looking at a replacement motor.

rent Posted at 2018-4-27 13:14
Yikes. If that screw is stripped then you are pretty much looking at a replacement motor.

Yikes, there's no alternative? Damn!

AvatarAir Posted at 2018-4-27 12:25
So, I'm having a devil of a time with these other sets. I used the heat gun on low setting for 30 seconds and it wouldn't budge. Used it again at high setting for about 20 setting and it won't budge. But the motor got very hot. I'm paranoid about melting something. Any suggestions? There's got to be a way to do this.

I would NOT direct any heat direct to the motor. Instead heat the tip of the driver and then insert into the screw, let the heat transfer into the screw and soften the glue.

Damage to the motor or plastics & mounts, can be the result if you get to much heat there.
If the screw is already stripped or any other damage you might have to replace damaged parts.

AvatarAir Posted at 2018-4-27 13:15
Yikes, there's no alternative? Damn!

Lots of ways to remove a stripped screw, but the chance of ruining the fairly delicate motor underneath seems high to me.

You can try with plumber's tape or rubber band for increased grip. Those may not work well if the screw is heated though.

I'm kind of at my wit's end here. Got all the plastic off but the screw will not budge. Used a soldering gun on the screw holding it in place for a bit. I've been trying for 2 hours but it won't move. Ideas are greatly appreciated. Thanks.

If you’ve got rid of all the plastic surrounding it, can you turn the screw by its head (or whatever that’s remaining of the head) using a vise grip?

rent Posted at 2018-4-27 18:19
If you’ve got rid of all the plastic surrounding it, can you turn the screw by its head (or whatever that’s remaining of the head) using a vise grip?

I've tried for 2 hours to turn it. It won't budge. I'm very frustrated.

Cougar1 Posted at 2018-4-27 03:44
Thanx Rich, yes that is what I found as well, on my first Inspire (way back) I had to actually heat the tip of the driver, to get the screw loose.

The TR9 you are referring to, is a bit for security screws (with a hole in the centre of the bit), that is for security crews, but can still be used, since it is a T9 bit.

Hi Cougar

Yes, I-Fixit has TR *(security) style bits above T5 Torx in my set. They are very high quality tools at a reasonable price. Of course you do not need the hole in the middle of the bit, these are what I have on hand.

IFITIT Tool kit

Please keep in mind that DJI must use RED Loctite at their factory and this is what they show in the parts section too.

https://store.dji.com/product/in ... rength-threadlocker
Edit: I found this official information by Loctite 263 thread locker
It can be difficult removing Loctite® red threadlocker, and it’s a common vehicle maintenance question. While the strength of our red threadlockers is formidable, and meant to be a permanent assembly method – don’t believe the myths… red threadlocker can be disassembled with the right technique.

When disassembling red threadlocker the process is a little different than for other threadlockers. The key is to apply localized heat greater than 550° F.  Then, once the threaded assembly is hot, the bolt can be unthreaded. Without applying heat to the assembly, it’s likely that over time, a bolt would break before coming loose.

Link to video

Rich

AvatarAir Posted at 2018-4-27 18:24
I've tried for 2 hours to turn it. It won't budge. I'm very frustrated.

I am so sorry you are having trouble and as you are already aware. The mounting screw must be heated to break the Loctite bond. If the screw is already damaged you might be out of luck. If you work on it yourself (replace the motor) you may void the warranty of your bird.  

Send it into DJI's repair shop in LA to take care of the problem

Rich

RichJ53 Posted at 2018-4-27 20:02
Hi Cougar

Yes, I-Fixit has TR *(security) style bits above T5 Torx in my set. They are very high quality tools at a reasonable price. Of course you do not need the hole in the middle of the bit, these are what I have on hand.

Ha. Yeah, apparently it takes 550f to undo that Loctite.  Man, how does anyone do this.

RichJ53 Posted at 2018-4-27 20:10
I am so sorry you are having trouble and as you are already aware. The mounting screw must be heated to break the Loctite bond. If the screw is already damaged you might be out of luck. If you work on it yourself (replace the motor) you may void the warranty of your bird.  

Send it into DJI's repair shop in LA to take care of the problem

Finally got it out. Had to hold a small tip soldering gun against the screw for 5 minutes and use a lock wrench. There's one last set that's hard as steel and I'm not sure I want to tackle this. Might just end up eating the cost of these CF props. This has not been fun.

AvatarAir Posted at 2018-4-27 20:37
Ha. Yeah, apparently it takes 550f to undo that Loctite.  Man, how does anyone do this.

Agree this is pretty darn tuff. The steel screws are harder than the aluminum motor bell and great care needs be taken here.   

Well the prop hubs wont fall off on their own  

Rich
   

AvatarAir Posted at 2018-4-27 20:39
Finally got it out. Had to hold a small tip soldering gun against the screw for 5 minutes and use a lock wrench. There's one last set that's hard as steel and I'm not sure I want to tackle this. Might just end up eating the cost of these CF props. This has not been fun.

are you using a small 25 watt soldering gun?  I use the Hakko station at 750*C and this will get the screw hot pretty fast
Rich

Hakko FX888D

RichJ53 Posted at 2018-4-27 20:47
are you using a small 25 watt soldering gun?  I use the Hakko station at 750*C and this will get the screw hot pretty fast
Rich

I honestly don't know what the wattage is. It's got a knob to turn it from yellow  to bright red. I have it turned all the way up. You have it set for 750c?

AvatarAir Posted at 2018-4-27 20:55
I honestly don't know what the wattage is. It's got a knob to turn it from yellow  to bright red. I have it turned all the way up. You have it set for 750c?

So if you have a knob control, it must have more than 25 watts. (typical hobby gun)  
My Hakko
Yes, between 700-750*F  is the temp (sorry not *C) I have my unit set on for soldering and this is digitally controlled. Once the tip is at temperature (takes about 25 seconds) and when you put it against the item you are working on,  it will heat up the metal it is touching very quickly.... you must take care. It really depends on what you are soldering as you can melt the insulation on wire or electrical components if you are not careful. Technique is everything and you only heat the area to flow the solder. In this case you are trying to melt the (plastic glue) Loctite material to break the bond.

Rich

Rich

AvatarAir Posted at 2018-4-26 18:59
This is exactly what I'm talking about. Aeromitrage did you try heating up the screws?
When I put in the T8 it seems to fit perfectly.

This is why you should not use the Red Loctite. Use the Blue.

Oh, I won't be using any Red Loctite.

Hi all, we have double confirmed with our engineers and the facility staff, the recommended screwdriver is T8, sorry for my previous post.
@AvatarAir Sorry for what happened, please send in the drone to the official repair center or contact the nearest repair center for further assistance: https://www.dji.com/service/repair/centers

DJI Mindy Posted at 2018-4-27 22:16
Hi all, we have double confirmed with our engineers and the facility staff, the recommended screwdriver is T8, sorry for my previous post.
@AvatarAir Sorry for what happened, please send in the drone to the official repair center or contact the nearest repair center for further assistance: https://www.dji.com/service/repair/centers

Hey Mindy,
There's actually nothing wrong to send in for...yet. I still have one more set to go. But it's actually the T9 torx that fits in the screws. Not the T8.

I got the last set out. They were actually T8 not T9 like the others. I held a super hot soldering gun on the screw for 40 seconds and put the drive on a rubber band. Worked like a charm. Somehow slightly melted part of the center cap but a little shaving fixed that and the old prop fits fine. Got all the XOAR props attached. Now to get up the nerve to fly it. A little concerned about that one motor.

I have to give a serious shout out to Florida Drone Supply. They express shipped me 2 sets of prop quick releases at no charge. Not even shipping. Truly nice folks.

Thanks for everyone's help thru this. It's greatly appreciated. Now I know exactly how to walk someone else thru it!

AvatarAir Posted at 2018-4-28 10:28
I got the last set out. They were actually T8 not T9 like the others. I held a super hot soldering gun on the screw for 40 seconds and put the drive on a rubber band. Worked like a charm. Somehow slightly melted part of the center cap but a little shaving fixed that and the old prop fits fine. Got all the XOAR props attached. Now to get up the nerve to fly it. A little concerned about that one motor.

I have to give a serious shout out to Florida Drone Supply. They express shipped me 2 sets of prop quick releases at no charge. Not even shipping. Truly nice folks.

Glad you were able to get everything apart. Yes, Florida Drone Supply are awesome!! They really go the extra mile

Rich