Broken P3P
 lvl.1
Canada
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Hey everyone,
Like thousands of other DJI owners, my Phantom 3 Pro no longer transmits a video/FPV signal to my to my mobile device through the DJI app. I have since bought an Autel Evo due to constant frustrations with DJI. But since this pandemic business, I have been staring at that large hunk of junk in the corner wondering if this widespread issue can be fixed without breaking the bank. So far, this youtube link looks promising but requires some DIY repair. One of the people in the comments section graciously translated the German narration into English text, which I will post below the link. I <i>may</i> give this option a try. So far, I have done the usual: take out memory card/reformat memory card with no success. If I ever end up giving it a shot, I will post my results. I may very well just smash the thing into bits with a baseball bat in my backyard instead. Haven't decided.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boK1ZFy0phw
Text:
Hello, together with this video I would like to help you to repair your DJI Phantom 3 Pro if you do not see a live image on my mobile phone. The problem is with the gimbal top board. that's directly the electronics above the camera. First of all I have to mention that please only carry out my procedure here if you can solder well, because otherwise you can break more than you already have. this is just a warning. The real problem is a lost firmware for the lightbridge and this lightbridge streams the video signal on your mobile phone and if the firmware is lost then it can no longer be updated with an update. To be sure that you actually have this problem, you have to look at an update log file. what you think of a failed update. the modules are listed in the middle. the lightbridge is the module 15.00 if there is “device not detected” then your firmware is definitely gone. In order to be able to carry out the following procedure reasonably, you need a sensible soldering station with a tip no more than 1 mm wide. A 5 volt power source such as a cell phone charger but which can deliver at least 1 ampere otherwise the board will not work. A USB RS 232 adapter with TTL level output very important. TTL, otherwise it will destroy the board. As well as some other cables for other connections that are still needed. Any terminal program I prefer Putty. and my repair my DJI file in the attachment. The first to be removed is the gimbal topboard and gimbal from the drone. after that you can remove any plastic lids with the two Torx screws as shown in the picture with the red arrow. Next you remove the flex cable that goes to the gimbal. that is stuck in time on the housing. best with a thin lever in between and loosen carefully. be careful this flex cable is very sensitive. Now you loosen the small grub screw on the Gimbal arm. just loosen don't unscrew. at the end you have the two remaining Torx screws from the housing cover and then you could carefully lift it off. it looks like this now comes your next hike what procedure. you have to run the flex cable from the mainboard. this is connected to two connect and this opens up by carefully folding up the black lock. the flex cable is also still glued to the floor so you shouldn't just pull it out but you should carefully loosen it upwards and then pull it back. When this is done you can now completely remove the gimbal. just pull away over the motor axis. So now it's time to solder. you close the USB RS 232 adapter. according to the following scheme. RX and TX may be interchanged. if it does not work then simply replace the lines and yes nothing can happen. For the 5 volt supply you best take an old USB cable, cut off the end, people put the two cables on it, and the other cell phone to a cell phone charger, which, as I said, can supply at least one ampere of current. we don't need the two hero cables yet. we only need it when programming. It looks like this to me. Now connect the USB RS 232 adapter to the PC and check which comport team has been assigned in the device manager. for me it is COM1. So now it will be exciting. opens the appointment and program as I said I'm using PuTTY here. Set the mode to serial, baud rate is 115200. com port COM1. for me after device manager and confirm with Open. now connect Finn full supply and you can see what the board is doing. not much "NAND boot Failed" is proof that the lightbridge firmware is definitely spanked. Now in the park you have my file repairmyDJI.rar directly on the C drive. The folder is only called 1 for the sake of simplicity. If you have extracted the RAR file there is a file “repairmyDJI.batch. you have to edit these with the text editor and set the COM port according to your configuration. otherwise the flash process will not work later. then save and close the file. Now we have to put the mainboard in boot mode. this requires these two thin blue connections which are shown here on the diagram. please pay attention to the people to the left of the meat. there it is extremely narrow because of the thin soldering tip I mentioned at the beginning of the video When you have done that, the Porty closes the supply voltage and it must report to BootMe. if you see that then you won. Now close the terminal program so that the COM port is released for the programming environment. Now a DOS console opens for you. changes to the location and where the files are extracted and carries out repair my DJI. Here the submarine is flashed louder. after the process, use control-c and run the file again. Submarine is flashed again. and in this second round the image is flashed afterwards where the operating system is on here and now you have. won thank you that's it from me. continue to enjoy flying and all the best greetings from Switzerland
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