Hello , i am looking fro a tip to help me , in the video below i did a pull back from the wood ( which is dark ) out to the open ( which was very light and had to use an nd32 filter )
I had to make the video black and white at the beging to bring the dark bit out with out messing up the video




Q is - is there a way of shotting from dark to light  , or should i have done it in two take , one with filter and one with not ?

any help please coz i love this type of shot

Why are you using an ND filter in the first place?  It wont do anything for that shot.  The problem you have is two fold - the camera takes 2-3 seconds for auto exposure to transition from bright to dark AND the mavic camera has awful dynamic range.   Its a tricky shot to pull off and likely not possible in auto exposure.

You might need manual exposure and quickly adjust it as you leave the trees OR bring it up in post processing.  

An ND (especially a 32) is going to make it far worse with shadow or iso noise. Ditch it.  Nothing in that sequence needs an ND blur.

Another option is fly backward MUCH slower so the camera adjusts better and speed the footage up in post.

Hi, thanks for reaching DJI Forum. We do appreciate taking time off sharing this video to us. We suggest putting your video settings to auto. In doing this you must remove your ND filter to achieve maximum clarity of your video. Thank you.

That's a hard shot indeed. Typically the way I've done this is in two separate clips, adjusting the settings between the dark one and the light one with a transition in between. Not sure how you'd do that in one shot and make it look right with the limitations of the MP camera.

I liked what you did in the beginning to make it what you wanted to convey.
I am not good at editing , but I would take the advise from someone like "gnirtS" who seems to really have a handle on shooting videos.

I would try over exposing by 2 stops manually for the brightest part of the scene and bring it down in post gradually in that light, that way you wont crush the blacks and leaves some room for the highlights. Use the histogram and expose to the right, use your nd filters to get 2 stops over exposed, but make sure there is no clipping out of the 4 edges of the histogram box. To get the best result use a flat profile like DLOG for more color range.

or try waiting for the sun to fall into a position that will help expose the interior of the forest, I would also use waypoints for a type of shot like this, pre-program your gimbal to pan & tilt some with that dolly zoom  for a more meaningful shot.

Good luck filming!

Thank you for your comments , all taken on broad.

I used an nd32 (may have been 16 can not remember)  on this as it was at midday and the sun was very bright an i did not want the sky blown out at the end of the shot and to shot an 1/50 shutter speed iso 100
Double the frame rate rule.

Thanks for the tip i will try again

Siriusdave Posted at 2018-8-11 00:40
Thank you for your comments , all taken on broad.

I used an nd32 (may have been 16 can not remember)  on this as it was at midday and the sun was very bright an i did not want the sky blown out at the end of the shot and to shot an 1/50 shutter speed iso 100

Maybe tricky, but could you do it using a programmed waypoint flight (litchi or gsp). Do the flight twice with different exposure settings and overflow it in post.

Siriusdave Posted at 2018-8-11 00:40
Thank you for your comments , all taken on broad.

I used an nd32 (may have been 16 can not remember)  on this as it was at midday and the sun was very bright an i did not want the sky blown out at the end of the shot and to shot an 1/50 shutter speed iso 100

Theres not enough fast movement in that scene to need an ND at all.  There's such a big exposure change as well its going to murder the detail, noise etc in the dark parts with iso and shutter speed issues.  Don't get obsessed with the double shutter rule.  If there isnt much fast motion in the scene you wont need the blurring or see stuttering.

The waypoint option is interesting and might work but you'd need a way to blend the exposure change as it moves (or just have 2 shots with a transition - its not a neat solution though).

I think its worth trying the shot flying really slowly.  This will give the camera time to adjust for the exposure (which is now only changing at a much slower pace) then accelerate the shot in post processing.

It MAY work better flying the scene in reverse (start far in bright) then slowly coming towards the group then reverse/speed up in post.

Its a tricky shot for any camera to pull off but adding the poor quality of the mavic camera and the fixed non-adjustable time slice the auto exposure uses to adjust its going to be really hard.

Manual is a bit coarse - you're limited to 1/3 of a stop bumps so may get clear changes between frames on the screen (and any lag might not help).