I don't know if others are seeing what I am or if there is a logical reason why, but I've noticed my 4K 60 FPS video is significantly darker than my 4K 30 FPS video.  Is there a reason this is the case?

Also, I've noticed the file size for 60 FPS is almost identical (if not slightly less) to the 30 FPS?  How can that be?  Shouldn't the 60 FPS video have basically twice the number of frames / data?

Ultimately, if file size is basically the same, why would anyone shoot with 30 FPS over 60 FPS?  Shouldnt' the 60 FPS video offer smoother results?

Hi, when you use 60fps you double the shutter speed, double the shutter speed  in very basic terms let’s less light in.

I could go into much more detail but that’s the easy answer.

As for file size, you are recording at 100mbs no mater what so file size stays relevant, you will have twice the frames but in a more compressed manner with 60fps.

Our eyes don't really work all the time at 60fps. It's nearer 24fps for humans although that rate can go up for shorter bursts when needed. Birds, on the other hand, are nearer 75fps. While each frame may be crisper from a detail point of view, fast-moving subjects can look more unnatural. Say like a drumstick in action. A slower frame rate can give it a more natural look by allowing some motion blur in each frame.  In a way, it depends on what you want from your footage. It's the same with 4k. most people won't see much difference between 4k footage and 2.7k viewing at a correct distance from given screen sizes. Some people can tell the difference while others can't. Some people can't tell a stereo soundtrack from a mono one or more people here would be wondering what output they are really getting from their Osmo Pockets. More is not always better but it can be useful at times.

DJI-Osmo-User-1 Posted at 1-4 16:28
Hi, when you use 60fps you double the shutter speed, double the shutter speed  in very basic terms let’s less light in.

I could go into much more detail but that’s the easy answer.

Using 1/120 shutter speed shouldn’t make a difference though as the Osmo will just increase ISO to achieve EV 0. Unless he/she is shooting in very low light and the max ISO has been reached.

If shooting in full manual shutter speed and ISO, then yes you’d be correct, but surely someone who shoots in full manual would already be aware of the exposure triangle and not question why it’s darker.

I think we need more info from the original poster before we can work out what’s happening.

fans0905df73 Posted at 1-4 20:33
Using 1/120 shutter speed shouldn’t make a difference though as the Osmo will just increase ISO to achieve EV 0. Unless he/she is shooting in very low light and the max ISO has been reached.

If shooting in full manual shutter speed and ISO, then yes you’d be correct, but surely someone who shoots in full manual would already be aware of the exposure triangle and not question why it’s darker.

I'd appreciate a clarify ....

If I am in manual mode and set fps to 25 and shutter to 50th am I right that the Pocket does not automatically adjust the other settings ie ISO in order to get the best available exposure, but that ISO has to be adjusted manually for each scene/subject?  

Also in fully automode (non-pro) am I right that the pocket does not automatically set shutter to double fps but basically sets whatever it feels like?  Or does it set it to some sort of understandable and predictable algorithm.

Thanks.

Jeffuk Posted at 1-5 02:48
I'd appreciate a clarify ....

If I am in manual mode and set fps to 25 and shutter to 50th am I right that the Pocket does not automatically adjust the other settings ie ISO in order to get the best available exposure, but that ISO has to be adjusted manually for each scene/subject?  

There are basically 2 auto modes when it comes to exposure control...shutter and ISO. The OP will always try to achieve the 180 degree rule (shutter speed is double the frame rate) when using full auto mode, but this is usually impossible with a f2 lens without ND filters to reduce the light.

The OP will lower the ISO as low as possible to achieve the 180 rule (or at least the anti-flicker shutter speed), but when its lowest has been reached (ISO 100), it HAS to increase shutter speed to reach optimum exposure (called EV 0). Now, what you can do with ND filters is to set your shutter to achieve the 180 rule, but also set ISO to auto so that it adjusts to changing light conditions. If your ISO is changing by too much of a range, then you need to swap the ND filter to get closer to optimum exposure.

To be honest, your best bet is to set your shutter AND ISO to manual, and use ND filters to get as close to EV 0 as possible, then correct any slight exposure problems in post production

(continued from previous post)...the reason it’s better to not use any auto settings is because your image will always be changing exposure. Of course, if you’re just wandering around filming your family etc, then it doesn’t really matter, but if you want to take your movies to the next stage then use full manual on both shutter and ISO with ND filters.

You also need to set your anti-flicker to the correct setting (USA 60hz, Europe 50hz, etc). The OP will then also try to set the shutter speed to match the electrical frequency In auto mode, but you’ll need to obviously do this yourself in full manual.

theprisoner6666 Posted at 1-6 01:54
(continued from previous post)...the reason it’s better to not use any auto settings is because your image will always be changing exposure. Of course, if you’re just wondering around filming your family etc, then it doesn’t really matter, but if you want to take your movies to the next stage then use full manual on both shutter and ISO with ND filters.

You also need to set your anti-flicker to the correct setting (USA 60hz, Europe 50hz, etc). The OP will then also try to set the shutter speed to match the electrical frequency In auto mode, but you’ll need to obviously do this yourself in full manual.

Thanks for explaining.  Very much appreciated.  I hadn't realised that the OP would attempt to 180degree .....

It makes the requirement to be able to fully operate pro mode from within the OP without the need of a phone more important in my view.

Jeffuk Posted at 1-6 02:14
Thanks for explaining.  Very much appreciated.  I hadn't realised that the OP would attempt to 180degree .....

It makes the requirement to be able to fully operate pro mode from within the OP without the need of a phone more important in my view.

Yes, it would be awesome to control full manual settings in the OP itself. Tbh, when I get my ND filters, I'm just gonna set it to 1/50 shutter, ISO 100, then keep swapping out my filters to get as close to EV 0 as possible. Then any little errors in exposure I'll correct in post. This will be much easier when they release a flat profile like cinelike or SLOG, as there will be a much greater dynamic range to play with in post.

Excellent info above, thanks to the participants!