I'm getting proper annoyed with the 360 pano setting

Why do they finish up so over exposed, it really is hit and miss even with heavy ND they are still over exposed
what am i doing wrong, driving me nuts ?????

Try shooting in Manual mode.

Hi, sorry for the inconvenience. Regarding your concern, can you please try to shoot in a different location? So we can check? Also, can you please upload a sample photo of the issue? Thank you.

Manual mode and set your lock AE under a button like C1 in settings of the go app.
Now turn your Mavic into the sun and adjust untill +0.7 or 0.3. Now lock with C1.
Now focus on your object and start your sphere

I've had this same issue recently where it never existed before.  I even did a few from different directions with an ND32 filter with the same overexposed result.

MavSpa_user Posted at 1-11 11:23
Manual mode and set your lock AE under a button like C1 in settings of the go app.
Now turn your Mavic into the sun and adjust untill +0.7 or 0.3. Now lock with C1.
Now focus on your object and start your sphere

ill try again tomorrow weather permitting, thank you

MavSpa_user Posted at 1-11 11:23
Manual mode and set your lock AE under a button like C1 in settings of the go app.
Now turn your Mavic into the sun and adjust untill +0.7 or 0.3. Now lock with C1.
Now focus on your object and start your sphere

You have to be in auto to lock the ae

Not by me, i always fly manual, iso 100, wb sunny or cloudly, UHD 30 fps,ntsc , D-log and syle 0,-1,-1 , i use version 4.1.22

Switch to manual and focus on the ground and get the exposure set before you start the 360 pano.

Bing Err Posted at 1-13 00:54
Switch to manual and focus on the ground and get the exposure set before you start the 360 pano.

Why would i focus on the ground, and why would i take an exposure setting from it pointed at the ground
As the second the camera is moved up and towards the sun it would be over exposed and would be out of focus as I would have focused on the floor and not my subject .....


At least you got 2 credits

MavSpa_user Posted at 1-13 00:41
Not by me, i always fly manual, iso 100, wb sunny or cloudly, UHD 30 fps,ntsc , D-log and syle 0,-1,-1 , i use version 4.1.22

App V4.3.9 {4269}

DJI Support

basically, it does not make sense using AE lock in manual mode. That being said we don't have a way toggling AE lock in manual.

did you try what I said?, because it look like on your screen that it's automatic change the exposure but the result you see that the sphere is not over exposed

MavSpa_user Posted at 1-13 05:25
did you try what I said?, because it look like on your screen that it's automatic change the exposure but the result you see that the sphere is not over exposed

Yea did everything to the word, yet still over exposed?

Mavic_Jay Posted at 1-13 02:48
Why would i focus on the ground, and why would i take an exposure setting from it pointed at the ground
As the second the camera is moved up and towards the sun it would be over exposed and would be out of focus as I would have focused on the floor and not my subject .....

Absolutely right. Sorry I was thinking backwards. Do the exact opposite of what I suggested.

Mavic_Jay Posted at 1-13 02:48
Why would i focus on the ground, and why would i take an exposure setting from it pointed at the ground
As the second the camera is moved up and towards the sun it would be over exposed and would be out of focus as I would have focused on the floor and not my subject .....

Sorry about giving the wrong advice. It was late and I was tired.

Mavic_Jay Posted at 1-13 02:48
Why would i focus on the ground, and why would i take an exposure setting from it pointed at the ground
As the second the camera is moved up and towards the sun it would be over exposed and would be out of focus as I would have focused on the floor and not my subject .....

Aside from ND filters or shooting in RAW and then mass editing all the pics before stitching you could try some placement tricks. Like, place the sun right behind something (building or a hill) so that it doesn't wash out the entire sky.

Had the same problem. Using a 16ND filter
What works for me is the time of day I take the 360. With the sun straight over head My 360 don't get the glare from the sun but sometimes are slightly out of focus.

you can also using Litchi, this software is great for sphere's because the first photo is taken horizontal instead of downwards. (AE is locked after first photo.)

example in manual mode , you see also that the mavic pro has vignetting , most in blue skies

MavSpa_user Posted at 1-16 07:37
[view_image]

Yes, I personally find the overexposure problem more manageable than the vignetting, and kept wondering if it can be fixed with 'smarter' stitching software

Try taking manual setting portrait photos, and do your Pano shooting. Then stitch them with Microsoft ICE (free) or Adobe Lightroom. that's what I do and turns out great everytime. I believe if you take more pictures overlaping each other, that you will be more precise on colors. Let me know !