Montfrooij Posted at 6-3 01:46
Sometimes I need to edit out something I don't like.
Stitching errors for example.

How do you edit that out and know to edit that?

Montfrooij Posted at 6-3 01:50
You see, on the left there are my presets and on the right column you can make a lot of fine adjustments.
And the best part is that the AEB source files give Affinity a lot of room to work with before the image falls apart.
[view_image]

How do you tell where the "fixes" should be?

Montfrooij Posted at 6-3 01:46
Depends on the situation.
Usually in portrait mode and 5 or 7 stacks of 5 images. (so 25 to 35 images)
But it does depend on how 'wide' I want the pano to be.

So you are going left to right or right to left with 1/3 overlap?  Do you go vertical at all?

AntDX316 Posted at 6-3 01:58
How do you edit that out and know to edit that?

You are familiar with photo editing?

You just look at an image and see things you don't like.
After that it is up to you to use one of the tools you have to correct it.

Montfrooij Posted at 6-3 01:47
That is a matter of taste.
But if you use Affinity Photo, you can make these adjustments on the raw files.
The output is much better (less banding etc.)

What does "less banding" mean?

Montfrooij Posted at 6-3 02:02
You are familiar with photo editing?

You just look at an image and see things you don't like.

Yeah but I meant when the images appear not overlayed correctly and one is higher than another making the lines totally wrong.  I was assuming you were doing some intricate surgical trimming to fix all the overlay issues?

AntDX316 Posted at 6-3 01:59
How do you tell where the "fixes" should be?

Just look at the rendered panorama and look for details that are wrong.
Usually it is in the areas that are stitched.
Or in the AEB merge errors (a moving car for example that is in all 5 shots on a different location)

Montfrooij Posted at 6-3 02:04
Just look at the rendered panorama and look for details that are wrong.
Usually it is in the areas that are stitched.
Or in the AEB merge errors (a moving car for example that is in all 5 shots on a different location)

You edit that out before the stitch?

AntDX316 Posted at 6-3 02:03
Yeah but I meant when the images appear not overlayed correctly and one is higher than another making the lines totally wrong.  I was assuming you were doing some intricate surgical trimming to fix all the overlay issues?

No that is not the issue.
the AEB merges are usually perfect (unless something is moving in the shot, or you don't hover still)
The pano stitching is usually good too with autopano giga.
It is just final adjustments (details)

The mode in the app will only impact on the image quality of the live feed to your device and not the SD card.

Montfrooij Posted at 6-3 02:05
No that is not the issue.
the AEB merges are usually perfect (unless something is moving in the shot, or you don't hover still)
The pano stitching is usually good too with autopano giga.

so just AEB in 5 different angles from the same spotlight perspective?

AntDX316 Posted at 6-3 02:02
What does "less banding" mean?

That is when there is not enough information in the file to make the changes you like.
Jpeg can only store a limited amount of color information per color, so when there is a sky that is blue, there are in fact a lot of different tones of blue .
But jpeg is skipping a lot of these to compress the outcome.
When you have a AEB stack, there is 5 different exposures, so Affinity (or any other HDR merge software) has more information to work with and less risk of banding.
https://photographylife.com/what ... g-and-how-to-fix-it

Montfrooij Posted at 6-3 02:07
That is when there is not enough information in the file to make the changes you like.
Jpeg can only store a limited amount of color information per color, so when there is a sky that is blue, there are in fact a lot of different tones of blue .
But jpeg is skipping a lot of these to compress the outcome.

Does the drone AEB in JPG or have the option to RAW?

AntDX316 Posted at 6-3 02:01
So you are going left to right or right to left with 1/3 overlap?  Do you go vertical at all?

I set the Mavic to portrait mode, so I only need one row.
Left - right does not matter at all.
If you don't have portrait mode (only MP has it I believe), you probably need 2 rows.
Just go out and try.
Super simple.
First just the manual panorama (so no AEB) to keep it simple.
When you are comfortable with that, move on to AEB pano's.

AntDX316 Posted at 6-3 02:08
Does the drone AEB in JPG or have the option to RAW?

I only shoot jpeg for now. But I think it will do raw too (that is actually better, but I never thought about it)

AntDX316 Posted at 6-3 02:07
so just AEB in 5 different angles from the same spotlight perspective?

I would suggest you try a manual pano without AEB first.
SO you know you can work with the files. (no AEB, just the pano)

PS, I never use the pano options from DJI. Except for the 360 one.

Montfrooij Posted at 6-3 02:09
I set the Mavic to portrait mode, so I only need one row.
Left - right does not matter at all.
If you don't have portrait mode (only MP has it I believe), you probably need 2 rows.

Portrait mode is when the image is vertical like a Smartphone?

Montfrooij Posted at 6-3 02:12
I would suggest you try a manual pano without AEB first.
SO you know you can work with the files. (no AEB, just the pano)

I tried all the modes in the Spark but it doesn't always line up (indoor shot) and really high, the image quality is very bad.  I will try the AEB modes with 5 or 3 shot?  I might as well just AEB everything.

AntDX316 Posted at 6-3 02:17
Portrait mode is when the image is vertical like a Smartphone?

Jup.
So you get more vertical field of view. (more of the sky and the ground) in one shot.
That way I only need one row of image (stack)s and only need to rotate the drone. Not come back one extra row and still have enough for a high resolution pano!
I will make a overlay for you

Montfrooij Posted at 6-3 02:20
Jup.
So you get more vertical field of view. (more of the sky and the ground) in one shot.
That way I only need one row of image (stack)s and only need to rotate the drone. Not come back one extra row and still have enough for a high resolution pano!

I'm not sure if I can do a vertical shot like that but I think the closest I can get is 4:3 or 3:2?

How do you tell you have went 1/3 to the left or right?  Also would it be better to "strafe" image instead of rotate on the Z-axis?

AntDX316 Posted at 6-3 02:20
I'm not sure if I can do a vertical shot like that but I think the closest I can get is 4:3 or 3:2?

How do you tell you have went 1/3 to the left or right?  Also would it be better to "strafe" image instead of rotate on the Z-axis?

If you don't have portrait mode (and I don't think you have), you will make something like this.
The order is NOT important for Autopano giga. It  will find the order itself.
It is important for you as the one having to select the images to process. If you don't use a logic order, you will miss shots since you end up with tons of images that seem to have no logic connection.
So I always try to use the same order for myself.

AntDX316 Posted at 6-3 02:20
I'm not sure if I can do a vertical shot like that but I think the closest I can get is 4:3 or 3:2?

How do you tell you have went 1/3 to the left or right?  Also would it be better to "strafe" image instead of rotate on the Z-axis?

Always use the mode that gives the most resolution.
I believe that is 4:3 (that uses the full sensor).
But you have to find out which is giving you the highest resolution.

AntDX316 Posted at 6-3 02:20
I'm not sure if I can do a vertical shot like that but I think the closest I can get is 4:3 or 3:2?

How do you tell you have went 1/3 to the left or right?  Also would it be better to "strafe" image instead of rotate on the Z-axis?

For comparison : I use portrait mode. So that gives me something like this.

AntDX316 Posted at 6-3 02:20
I'm not sure if I can do a vertical shot like that but I think the closest I can get is 4:3 or 3:2?

How do you tell you have went 1/3 to the left or right?  Also would it be better to "strafe" image instead of rotate on the Z-axis?

PS, you don't know if you are on 1/3, but that is not exact science.
Autopano can do with 1/4 too.
But usually I try to keep it around 1/3.
Not too much overlap, that will confuse the stitching software since the Mavic has some bad distortion to stitch
But as with all things: you need to go out and try what works for you.
I'm just a hobbyist that carved a path for myself that works for me.
Maybe you find better ways!

Montfrooij Posted at 6-3 02:40
PS, you don't know if you are on 1/3, but that is not exact science.
Autopano can do with 1/4 too.
But usually I try to keep it around 1/3.

But isn't vertical then just not using the sides if using the same full-sensor?  So instead of doing a 5-shot of 5, you can just do a 3-shot of 5?

Maybe the idea is to use the grid, reference something on the vertical line and use that as a marker.

AntDX316 Posted at 6-3 02:48
But isn't vertical then just not using the sides if using the same full-sensor?  So instead of doing a 5-shot of 5, you can just do a 3-shot of 5?

Maybe the idea is to use the grid, reference something on the vertical line and use that as a marker.

The AEB has nothing to do with this!
Go sleep.
You will get it after some rest

Montfrooij Posted at 6-3 03:07
The AEB has nothing to do with this!
Go sleep.
You will get it after some rest

ok I will be back after

AntDX316 Posted at 6-3 03:35
ok I will be back after

You do just that!

And start with a manual pano first.
OR one AEB stack.
Not both at once.
Just until you master both techniques.

Montfrooij Posted at 6-3 03:55
You do just that!

And start with a manual pano first.

I've done it!!  Had to HDR merge first then did a pano w/ them and edit lol

AntDX316 Posted at 6-3 16:59
I've done it!!  Had to HDR merge first then did a pano w/ them and edit lol

Wow.
Looks great!

Montfrooij Posted at 6-3 22:33
Wow.
Looks great!

I think it's better to just strafe the X-axis than to turn on the Z-axis but we might lose the horizon if the altitude deviates.

AntDX316 Posted at 6-3 22:38
I think it's better to just strafe the X-axis than to turn on the Z-axis but we might lose the horizon if the altitude deviates.

I only turn the drone and (when I need a second row), I tilt the gimbal

Montfrooij Posted at 6-3 22:45
I only turn the drone and (when I need a second row), I tilt the gimbal

You were saying it's better to zoom in than take pictures zoomed out?

AntDX316 Posted at 6-7 15:06
You were saying it's better to zoom in than take pictures zoomed out?

If you are planning on making a panorama : yes.
Because you can get much higher resolution because you take more pictures to cover the same field of view compared to when you are at 25mm. (zoomed out)
That does make sense right?
Let's say you want to cover 140degrees field of view, with 25mm you only need about 4 images in a row.
But if you zoom in you need about 8 images in a row and you also need a second row. So that is 16 images.
All these images have the about 12MP (a bit reduced because of the overlap, so there should be about 8MP left per image).
So instead of 4 x 8MP = 32 MP.  (zoomed out)
You get 16 * 8 = 128MP in one HUGE panorama.

(no exact science, it is just an example)

Montfrooij Posted at 6-8 01:43
If you are planning on making a panorama : yes.
Because you can get much higher resolution because you take more pictures to cover the same field of view compared to when you are at 25mm. (zoomed out)
That does make sense right?

Yeah, that's what the Zoom does but on the Phantom, you cannot zoom in.  It takes kind of a while to Process the 5-stack AEB.  I'm using 3:2 format instead of 16:9 for more pixels.  I'm might do a 4x of 5-stack AEB every time I take a shot with D-cinelike enabled but if the cloud coverage changes it would suck so I might just do a 2-3x 5-stack.  I mean, if I just JPEG with 1x I can create a Super pano w/ Ease but looking at a website, they show how some details are lost in JPG vs RAW.  The idea is to setup the camera as optimal as possible to get the best possible image with what I have.

AntDX316 Posted at 6-3 02:48
But isn't vertical then just not using the sides if using the same full-sensor?  So instead of doing a 5-shot of 5, you can just do a 3-shot of 5?

Maybe the idea is to use the grid, reference something on the vertical line and use that as a marker.

I'm talking about the Mavic ZOOM
Zo not the P4, that does not have optical zoom

AntDX316 Posted at 6-3 02:48
But isn't vertical then just not using the sides if using the same full-sensor?  So instead of doing a 5-shot of 5, you can just do a 3-shot of 5?

Maybe the idea is to use the grid, reference something on the vertical line and use that as a marker.

"But isn't vertical then just not using the sides if using the same full-sensor?  "

The Mavic Pro is unique in that it physically rotates the sensor chip 90 degrees to achieve true portrait mode. None of the other models rotate their camera like that.

Aardvark Posted at 6-8 07:33
"But isn't vertical then just not using the sides if using the same full-sensor?  "

The Mavic Pro is unique in that it physically rotates the sensor chip 90 degrees to achieve true portrait mode. None of the other models rotate their camera like that.

90 degrees?

AntDX316 Posted at 6-8 09:24
90 degrees?

Correct, as you might rotate a DSLR 90 degrees to get portrait mode.

Look at this video @ 1:24 (not my video, but a good demonstration)

Aardvark Posted at 6-8 09:39
Correct, as you might rotate a DSLR 90 degrees to get portrait mode.

Look at this video @ 1:24 (not my video, but a good demonstration)

yeah, basically it's the same but with less or more bars