I haven't tested 5.8 vs 2.4 but I was getting insane Aircraft disconnected until I went manual at 10MHz and got it w/ no cut-outs at all.  Selected a frequency that was the lowest and boom, no disconnects!!  Thunderstorms nearby.  Auto kept disconnecting me even while it was on the ground!!  Even turning everything off and back on again.  Even with doing new compass calibration methods.

The dbm - was identical at -110 -109 at both 2.4 and 5.8. It seems to have less frequency at 5.8 and was giving me 4km range on the chart.. I didn't fly far at all but next time.

Auto does not know wtf to do.  It should select the one with the lowest interference and select it w/o me having to do it but it doesn't.  I have was having similar issues w/ the P4 and the Spark.  I'm going to do manual every time.

Hello and good day AntDX316. Thank you for sharing these information and for sharing your experience with regards to this matter. Have a safe and a happy flying always.

sounds like your flying in high interference environment which is why switchign to 10mhz bandwidth is massively helping you out where as 20mhz is screwing you up.  20mhz is overlapping other signals and crossing eachother.  10mhz is more narrow and less overlap.  (all very overly simplified)  and for some reason occusync is being stubbon and not changing channels or bands like it should..  

i dont know the full logic behind occusync 2.0  yet  i plan on poking at it and finding out (when my mavic 2 pro arives) if the system is sensing on drone side or controller side or both.  i know on occusync 1.0 it was aircraft side would initiate the jumping around in the 2.4ghz band if u spammed it with a competing 2.4Ghz signal but the remote wouldn't care in same conditions.

I dont normally frequent the Mavic section, but thought i will have a look and see what issues the M2P's have, anyway, i noticed you said you calibrated the compass, should you really be doing that? i know on the Phantom you shouldnt so..... Also, why would calibrating the compass help with rx signal? is there something new with these M2P's where the compass is linked to tx/rx?

HereForTheBeer Posted at 8-24 18:28
sounds like your flying in high interference environment which is why switchign to 10mhz bandwidth is massively helping you out where as 20mhz is screwing you up.  20mhz is overlapping other signals and crossing eachother.  10mhz is more narrow and less overlap.  (all very overly simplified)  and for some reason occusync is being stubbon and not changing channels or bands like it should..  

i dont know the full logic behind occusync 2.0  yet  i plan on poking at it and finding out (when my mavic 2 pro arives) if the system is sensing on drone side or controller side or both.  i know on occusync 1.0 it was aircraft side would initiate the jumping around in the 2.4ghz band if u spammed it with a competing 2.4Ghz signal but the remote wouldn't care in same conditions.

It just doesn't make sense how it can't pick the one with the lowest peak.  It should flag the high interferences as spikes and not use them.

DJI Stephen Posted at 8-24 15:55
Hello and good day AntDX316. Thank you for sharing these information and for sharing your experience with regards to this matter. Have a safe and a happy flying always.

Stephen, as a DJI employee you should be very careful supporting such informations. Is it consulted with engineering department and confirmed as true? Is it a recommended practice?

I had a lot of interference yesterday in a place I regularly fly without issue. I didn’t expect switching to manual would help.  I’ll try that next time. Thanks

DAFlys Posted at 8-24 21:36
I had a lot of interference yesterday in a place I regularly fly without issue. I didn’t expect switching to manual would help.  I’ll try that next time. Thanks

I keep forgetting to switch to manual the past 2 flights.

DAFlys Posted at 8-24 21:36
I had a lot of interference yesterday in a place I regularly fly without issue. I didn’t expect switching to manual would help.  I’ll try that next time. Thanks

"I didn’t expect switching to manual would help."


That's because it most likely won't help at all.

You'll find that you will not be able to manually select your frequencies, as you live in Europe. As such the frequencies need to switch automatically.

However if you want to have a look then switch your location on your display device to USA, that then allows you to chose different channels (slide the shaded box on graph), and also the bandwidth for the video signal.

As far as I'm aware the control and video signals are multiplexed, but because the video is much more demanding in terms of data then the video can start to break up and get lost usually before the control data is lost/corrupted.

The graph represents the signal to noise ratio as detected by the system. So ideally a very strong video/control signal and a very low amount of noise (interference) is what's desired. So -110 dBm is a far better signal to noise ratio than -100 dBm.

At the end of the day, leaving it on automatic selection, and letting the system quickly switch as needed would likely be the best option for most.

There may be occasions if the aircraft were flying at long range (likely well beyond VLOS) where being able to select a channel manually might be of benefit. It's unlikely you'll ever be in that situation though.

Aardvark Posted at 8-25 00:01
"I didn’t expect switching to manual would help."

minor correction, DBm isn't signal to noise ratio, and -110Db is weaker than -100Db. Dbm = Decibel milliwatt, basically receiving or sending power.  and lower the number the weaker the signal.  -110 is weaker then -100.  

what you are looking for is SNR and is unfortunately not displayed anywhere visible.   

as for flying well beyond line of sight being main reason, not always true. specially in countries that have to suffer reduced power specs..     good example i discovered several cell towers flying around only because the amount of signal disruption i was getting and was able o track the worst of it back to a general location and later discovered hiding a tower/antenna array in a church steeple in the middle of tower, which was funny.   i found cell systems on water towers as well.  i think these are the worst for flying drones because they are lower and more hidden, greatly reduce range and sometimes hard to find because they reflect off surrounding terrain sometimes so may find really strong pockets of disruption seems to make no sense.  

HereForTheBeer Posted at 8-25 10:28
minor correction, DBm isn't signal to noise ratio, and -110Db is weaker than -100Db. Dbm = Decibel milliwatt, basically receiving or sending power.  and lower the number the weaker the signal.  -110 is weaker then -100.  

what you are looking for is SNR and is unfortunately not displayed anywhere visible.   

You are correct in the interpretation of dBm, the chart gives a measure of the level of noise detected (not signal to noise ratio as I stated, although they would be directly mapped to each other). So the lower figure of -110 dBm would be still be the desirable, allowing the best range.

Some people said in another post that they had more range at 5.8GHz than 2.4GHz and this was at 4km+.  I get -110+ on 5.8 than 2.4 as that is around -109.  I haven't tested it of course as I kept running on Auto but once the frequency starts to switch and the screen greys out, it sucks.

Perhaps  -110 is too close to -109 for it to change frequencies,  in the same way as a heating system will drop a few degrees before it restarts the heating.

DAFlys Posted at 8-27 01:30
Perhaps  -110 is too close to -109 for it to change frequencies,  in the same way as a heating system will drop a few degrees before it restarts the heating.

Strong controller interferences went away when I selected it myself.

I would like to try manually what frequency do you recommend me to put? what is the best setup

XFwT6kEgjZHi Posted at 8-27 05:49
I would like to try manually what frequency do you recommend me to put? what is the best setup

Whichever has the lowest peak.  Preferably the one that has the longest running bottom flatline.

ok 10MHz ?

Maverick.Pro Posted at 8-27 10:00
ok 10MHz ?

2.4Ghz showed higher interference and 5.8GHz was all bottomed out so it was better.  In another post people were saying 5.8GHz is indeed better so.. Every time I get hiccups I get scared to fly at all.

edit: Anyone else who read 5.8GHz has higher interference before I edited it, I apologize.  I hope you come back to know what the right information is before you go out into the world and forever ingrain 2.4GHz being better.

Actually 2.4GHz was better.  I was getting micro cut-outs at 5.8GHz.  It wasn't as Solid as 2.4GHz!

Great info. I’m doing a deep dive on interference both RF and magnetic. Thanks!

Evangeline Posted at 7-24 07:14
Great info. I’m doing a deep dive on interference both RF and magnetic. Thanks!

It depends where you are. Sometimes 2.4GHz is better, sometimes 5.8GHz is better. You should be using Yagis on each that work best (2.4GHz or 5.8GHz) for the ultimate reliable signal feed.

AntDX316 Posted at 7-25 06:01
It depends where you are. Sometimes 2.4GHz is better, sometimes 5.8GHz is better. You should be using Yagis on each that work best (2.4GHz or 5.8GHz) for the ultimate reliable signal feed.

What yagis do you use? They only work for one frequency band, correct?

Evangeline Posted at 7-25 10:27
What yagis do you use? They only work for one frequency band, correct?

They increase the "penetration" so you basically should have a clean signal than without. Without Yagis, in an area where a lot of people have 5.8 or 2.4GHz, even at like 100 ft away you can have huge signal issues.

When I flew some jobs commercially, yagis kept me from having that issue a lot.

5.8GHz are the ones with smaller rods.  The long rods are 2.4GHz.

AntDX316 Posted at 7-26 20:26
They increase the "penetration" so you basically should have a clean signal than without. Without Yagis, in an area where a lot of people have 5.8 or 2.4GHz, even at like 100 ft away you can have huge signal issues.

When I flew some jobs commercially, yagis kept me from having that issue a lot.

Can you send me a link to the ones you use?

Evangeline Posted at 7-29 09:11
Can you send me a link to the ones you use?

This seems to be newer (I don't have these).
5.8GHz - https://www.amazon.com/Anbee-Ant ... ller/dp/B08M931CNW/

You have to set 5.8GHz on the controller. Sometimes depending on the area, 5.8GHz even with Yagi is unreliable so you need to do 2.4GHz with no Yagi unless you are using the 2.4GHz ones which I've never really tested yet but have them.

2.4GHz - https://www.amazon.com/MAVCURIS- ... ntom/dp/B08NDBV4FS/