Occams Razor Posted at 5-18 18:01
You really need to operate your drone in Sports Mode at maximum horizontal speed with full front pitch (30 degrees) if you want to see how your propellers are ultimately performing.   Below is a flight I took a couple of weeks ago.  There is greater separation at full elevator but at lower speeds the front propellers have a greater differential.  Also, in full reverse, the rear left propeller has lower speeds than the right.  FYI, these RPM's never trigger a Motor Speed warning.   Also, these are my original propellers that have been stored off and on in the Fly More Case for about 3 months.  

[view_image]

No substitute for stress-testing in real conditions, but the indoor hover (auto take off, 2 minutes, no stick movements, auto landing) is a repeatable test which seems to correlate well to the RPMs we see in normal flights. The nice part of it, is that it allows us to compare numbers in a very simple way. Maybe you did that already (sorry, I've read so many posts lately that I forgot who did what), but if you haven't it would interesting if you could do it and post your averages. Use the formula we posted before, e.g. at #227.From the chart you posted, everything seems to be fine with your props, you're not hitting crazy high RPMs, and there is not one motor spinning substantially faster than the others.

I've been watching the work you guys are doing. Very impressive. I can't keep up.

I do have one suggestion though. Motor commanded data can tell you if a motor is maxed out where it may be a bit unclear from motor speed. PPMrecv has a range of [0, 1920] where 1920 means 100%. E.g.


PPMrecv will be changed in the next version so that it's range is [0% - 100%]

BudWalker Posted at 5-19 09:54
I've been watching the work you guys are doing. Very impressive. I can't keep up.

I do have one suggestion though. Motor commanded data can tell you if a motor is maxed out where it may be a bit unclear from motor speed. PPMrecv has a range of [0, 1920] where 1920 means 100%. E.g.

Bud,

Great advice.   I'll check that out when I get some time.

Thanks for sharing this!

BudWalker Posted at 5-19 09:54
I've been watching the work you guys are doing. Very impressive. I can't keep up.

I do have one suggestion though. Motor commanded data can tell you if a motor is maxed out where it may be a bit unclear from motor speed. PPMrecv has a range of [0, 1920] where 1920 means 100%. E.g.

Thank you for the suggestion. These drones are firmware-limited in many aspects (roll, pitch, h speed, v speed, etc) and their attitude is very controlled, so I would not expect to see motors maxed out too often, as they rarely go full throttle. Is this a fair assumption, or actual data show otherwise? In other words, how can we use this info as an indicator or under-performing props?

120ccpm Posted at 5-19 12:28
Thank you for the suggestion. These drones are firmware-limited in many aspects (roll, pitch, h speed, v speed, etc) and their attitude is very controlled, so I would not expect to see motors maxed out too often, as they rarely go full throttle. Is this a fair assumption, or actual data show otherwise? In other words, how can we use this info as an indicator or under-performing props?

A motor being commanded to the max means that it can't provide the required thrust. In the case of a missing, broken or under performing prop the motor speed will be high. In the case of an obstructed motor or ESC defect the motor speed will be low. AFAIK, a motor commanded at 100% doesn't happen under normal conditions.The FC needs to be able to adjust a motor's thrust which it can't do if it's being commanded at 100%.

120ccpm Posted at 5-19 12:28
Thank you for the suggestion. These drones are firmware-limited in many aspects (roll, pitch, h speed, v speed, etc) and their attitude is very controlled, so I would not expect to see motors maxed out too often, as they rarely go full throttle. Is this a fair assumption, or actual data show otherwise? In other words, how can we use this info as an indicator or under-performing props?

You'd be surprised how often the motors are maxing out, I'm a little to be honest just from free checking my past performing dats.

Working on a post with the new information but it's pretty interesting, each motor peaked during my last flight and avg motor use was above 80%. I need to review my bad flights still but it's certainly surprising to see.

Understand though that just because the motor was "Maxed" doesn't mean it's hitting "Max RPM", you've reached max power. (not to be confused with max power load error but similar) With the correct pitch of the props the motors will max out at X RPM, but if the props have less pitch the motor's will spin faster because it's less of a load for the same amount of power.

ABeardedItalian Posted at 5-19 13:07
You'd be surprised how often the motors are maxing out, I'm a little to be honest just from free checking my past performing dats.

Working on a post with the new information but it's pretty interesting, each motor peaked during my last flight and avg motor use was above 80%. I need to review my bad flights still but it's certainly surprising to see.

I think I should replace my props..



But keep in mind I made a tour with 2km (1km far away, then returning) at 99m without any problem or error.
Also checked the logs. No error to see (only battery lvl, home position, mode-change, etc).
Edit: But this is just a normal flight. Not testing anything special..

thE29 Posted at 5-24 14:29
I think I should replace my props..

[view_image]

The hover test gives you numbers that are easier to compare, but from your RPM chart I don't see anything that stands out... even your peak RPMs are not unusually high.

120ccpm Posted at 5-24 15:49
The hover test gives you numbers that are easier to compare, but from your RPM chart I don't see anything that stands out... even your peak RPMs are not unusually high.

How should this hoover test look like? I didnt find anything in the first post.  Should I just let it hoovering or also up and down?

thE29 Posted at 5-24 23:54
How should this hoover test look like? I didnt find anything in the first post.  Should I just let it hoovering or also up and down?

Start reading from post 185: simple hover indoor, auto-takeoff and auto-land, never touch the controls. Load DAT in CsvView, export to CSV and use formula to calculate averages for each motor. Good props seem to give numbers in the 9400-9600 range.

120ccpm Posted at 5-25 08:11
Start reading from post 185: simple hover indoor, auto-takeoff and auto-land, never touch the controls. Load DAT in CsvView, export to CSV and use formula to calculate averages for each motor. Good props seem to give numbers in the 9400-9600 range.

So, I tested it a little bit, but it seems my left rear motor has todo more rpms...



I put on the protection and activated payload in the app. Then let it hoover for some time...
Also I think the VPS has major problems with my white floor So it was not hoovering at the same place, but moved all the time some cm´s around.
It even refused the 2nd out-landing.. I had to accept a dialog, to let it land.
Yeah.. I think I should replace all of them My right back motor is closer to the to left front.. o_O

thE29 Posted at 5-29 09:57
So, I tested it a little bit, but it seems my left rear motor has todo more rpms...

[view_image]

It's not your white floor that's normal behavior, even with GPS lock it'll move a few inches or so back and forth side to side but it'll never wander away on it's own unless you don't have sufficient lighting or some 3rd party acting upon it like wind from a fan, or someone pushing it for example.

Both your CCW Left Rear/Right Front props but mainly the Left Rear is showing classic symptoms and would suggest replacing them. Your CW props Left Front/Right Rear looks normal enough. We haven't to my knowledge had anyone do the hover test with the Cage On so that might explain the higher RPM you are seeing on the other motors but I think all looks good.

You can repeat the hover test if you like after replacing your props, even go for a flight like you normally would and we can re-review your data and see how it's improved.

Thank you for your contribution.

ABeardedItalian Posted at 5-29 11:44
It's not your white floor that's normal behavior, even with GPS lock it'll move a few inches or so back and forth side to side but it'll never wander away on it's own unless you don't have sufficient lighting or some 3rd party acting upon it like wind from a fan, or someone pushing it for example.

Both your CCW Left Rear/Right Front props but mainly the Left Rear is showing classic symptoms and would suggest replacing them. Your CW props Left Front/Right Rear looks normal enough. We haven't to my knowledge had anyone do the hover test with the Cage On so that might explain the higher RPM you are seeing on the other motors but I think all looks good.

But then it is strange, that I never had any error message on my 2km flight @ 99m

Should I replace all or just the left rear?

thE29 Posted at 5-29 11:57
But then it is strange, that I never had any error message on my 2km flight @ 99m

Should I replace all or just the left rear?

I would replace Left Rear for sure, but your Right Front also seems to spin higher than normal, particularly in the second half of your test. If you have an extra spare, I would put it on. Keep the old ones as emergency replacements, they are not "bad" props, but definitely not as good as new.

Replace and try again, to see for yourself if it made a difference.

I wondered if you would be able to advise me about what i need to do here:

This was flown indoors with no air movement and good light for visual positioning systems.

I may not need to do anything at all, but i have been experiencing random drops in altitude when out with the drone! Mainly over water but at a decent height still!

xMutzNutzUKx Posted at 6-12 10:26
I wondered if you would be able to advise me about what i need to do here:

This was flown indoors with no air movement and good light for visual positioning systems. [view_image]

Your Left-Rear is spinnin a bit faster than the others, but nothing crazy. If you have a spare you can replace it and repeat the test, just to bring the RPMs down a bit, but unless you start getting the Motor Speed Error, you don't have to do it.
Can't comment on the altitude drop, water might confuse the Vision System, but its operating range is 0.5 to 30m, so if you're flying higher than that and still experience drops, it might be something else.

Hi,

I just received my new mavic mini.  The first thing I did after receiving it is perform a 10 minute hover test.  The strange part on my test is that they are all very close except the right back propeller is always 800 or so rpm slower.  Thoughts?

Mavic.ca Posted at 6-13 14:31
Hi,

I just received my new mavic mini.  The first thing I did after receiving it is perform a 10 minute hover test.  The strange part on my test is that they are all very close except the right back propeller is always 800 or so rpm slower.  Thoughts?

We haven't seen anything quite like that yet, was the test done inside or out?

The best I can say right now is you got have 6 really good performing props and 2 excellent ones but I feel with this margin of difference something else is at play perhaps.

Could you try the hove test again but facing a different direction from your last test? I've seen motors behave differently based on the mini's orientation in a room.  (One test the mini was facing north/south and the second test was east/west)

ABeardedItalian Posted at 6-13 15:23
We haven't seen anything quite like that yet, was the test done inside or out?

The best I can say right now is you got have 6 really good performing props and 2 excellent ones but I feel with this margin of difference something else is at play perhaps.

Test was done indoors facing east, just took off and let it stay at that hight around 4.5 ft.  I just did another test which was a little higher around 6 ft facing the west for 3 minutes then north for 2 minutes and then east for 2 minutes and finaly south for 2 minutes.  The results look the same.  Ignore the second and third flights, the second flight I flew it too high and it got sucked to the ceiling, polishing the props a bit, and the third was me just making sure they still produce the same rpm result.   

Mavic.ca Posted at 6-13 16:58
Test was done indoors facing east, just took off and let it stay at that hight around 4.5 ft.  I just did another test which was a little higher around 6 ft facing the west for 3 minutes then north for 2 minutes and then east for 2 minutes and finaly south for 2 minutes.  The results look the same.  Ignore the second and third flights, the second flight I flew it too high and it got sucked to the ceiling, polishing the props a bit, and the third was me just making sure they still produce the same rpm result.

Ideally, you would want to see all motors spin more or less at the same speed, as that makes for a very balanced setup.  In your case - rather unique -  you have a corner that performs better than the others, not worse (like it often happens), so I would not worry about it too much. You can flatten the prop a bit to see if that makes the motor spin a bit faster, or you can try replacing the props, but again I would not be too concerned. Enjoy your MM, happy flying!

ABeardedItalian Posted at 5-29 11:44
It's not your white floor that's normal behavior, even with GPS lock it'll move a few inches or so back and forth side to side but it'll never wander away on it's own unless you don't have sufficient lighting or some 3rd party acting upon it like wind from a fan, or someone pushing it for example.

Both your CCW Left Rear/Right Front props but mainly the Left Rear is showing classic symptoms and would suggest replacing them. Your CW props Left Front/Right Rear looks normal enough. We haven't to my knowledge had anyone do the hover test with the Cage On so that might explain the higher RPM you are seeing on the other motors but I think all looks good.

"We haven't to my knowledge had anyone do the hover test with the cage on"

How about this?  For comparison, I just did a quick hover test without and with the propguards installed.  It looks like the motors spin about 1000 rpm faster to support the extra payload when the propguard cages are installed.

Zbip57 Posted at 6-16 10:08
How about this?  For comparison, I just did a quick hover test without and with the propguards installed.  It looks like the motors spin about 1000 rpm faster to support the extra payload when the propguard cages are installed.

Of course, such a small drone is a great compromise between its weight, flight time and speed. Therefore, every extra gram requires too much effort from him and upsets the balance in this compromise.

Just did the hover test, nothing looks way off, even though when I upgraded the firmware I received the ESC error.
Having since refreshed firmware and IMU calibrated....

TheCav Posted at 6-23 04:39
[view_image]

Just did the hover test, nothing looks way off, even though when I upgraded the firmware I received the ESC error.

Mmm... nothing is "way off", but your rear motors are spinning close to 11k RPMs, which is higher than normal. And the front motors are not far behind. Assuming you didn't do the hover test with the prop guards on, if that were my MM, I would replace both Left and Right Rear props. Maybe you won't get the Motor Speed Error again, maybe you will, but it seems your props are there on the limit of triggering it.

TheCav Posted at 6-23 04:39
[view_image]

Just did the hover test, nothing looks way off, even though when I upgraded the firmware I received the ESC error.

Looking at your graph, I would guess when you received the ESC warning it pointed at the right-rear motor as the cause, no?  That one seems to be running consistently the fastest.


Both your front motor speeds look fine, but both rear motors are spinning significantly faster than the front motors.  The fronts seem to be averaging about 10,000 rpm, whereas the rear motors are nearer to 11,000 rom.

Some people have reported average motor speeds as low as 9400 rpm at hover with brand new prop blades.  If you look at my first graph a couple of posts up (262#), I only ran the hover test for about a minute.  In the first 25 seconds it took a little while for the Mini to stabilize in a hover, but the second half of the graph show all the motors running at nearly the same speeds around 9700 rpm.

The second graph (the lower one) is with prop guards installed.  The Mini is carrying a heavier load, so there the motor speeds are noticeably higher, around 11,000 rpm.  But note the motors are all still running at relatively the same speeds.

In your case, both rear motors are running significantly faster than the front motors.  That would indicate the rear prop blades are less effective at generating lift, so the motors need to run faster.

Do you store your Mini with arms folded and the prop blades crossed?   Here are some photos of a brand new Mini, straight out of the box with the paper wraps still securing the prop blades.  See how the tips of the brand new right-rear prop blades stand up high, whereas the tips of the left-rear blades are bent down to fold under the right blades?  If I had to guess, I'd say you store yours the other way around, with the right-rear blades bent under to nest below the left-rear blades.

Your graph shows the right-rear motor consistently spinning faster than the others at hover.  11,000 rpm is not crritical at hover, but it is likely this motor (right-rear) would be the first to trigger a Motor Speed Error warning when the Mini is pushed through some tougher flight manoeuvres.

If you have spare prop blades to experiment with, try replacing the blades on the right-rear motor then repeat the hover test.  You'll see an immediate reduction in that motor's hover speed.  If you like what you see from that, you could replace the left-rear as well.

For comparison, here are my new rear propeller blades.  You can see how high the tips of the blades from each side sit when new.  They cannot be forced to nest together unless one side or the other is bent down to slide under the other side's blades.

TheCav Posted at 6-23 04:39
[view_image]

Just did the hover test, nothing looks way off, even though when I upgraded the firmware I received the ESC error.

Don’t get bogged down in having tips of props curled up, the reason for this on dji props is a noise design, a lot of dji craft have this but many dji craft fly with perfectly straight props and the difference is noise. Mavic pro, P4pro , Mavic air, inspire, Matrice etc so the curl may effect noise but that it, if the curl was essential we would see many problems with aforementioned drones.
You could change rear props but I’m certain in two weeks time doing same hover test you will get similar results, so it’s my opinion if your props look ok and show no physical damage then the props are ok.

Only difference in low noise props and other props is low noise are very slightly longer and ends are slightly curled.
I think those above should give clear information when recommending changing props, that curl is designed to combat noise .

I have a spare set that I could try, but frankly I'm a bit disappointed that carrying the Mini in its original Fly More Combo case, results in such misshaped props. Always took care of the props being stored as pictures inside the case.....
And with only a bunch of flights since I bought it, this is the result
Unfortunately I have not noticed which motor caused the ESC error at that time (the firmware was just upgraded and I didn't know such feature existed)

Just to add some numbers, those are my averages from the test above:
Right Front: 9288 rpm
Left Front: 9223 rpm
Left Back: 9897 rpm
Right Back: 10138 rpm

So yes, it looks like the RB is spinning 2% faster than the LB.
Would they really need to spin all roughly at the same rpm between front and back?

TheCav Posted at 6-23 23:34
I have a spare set that I could try, but frankly I'm a bit disappointed that carrying the Mini in its original Fly More Combo case, results in such misshaped props. Always took care of the props being stored as pictures inside the case.....
And with only a bunch of flights since I bought it, this is the result
Unfortunately I have not noticed which motor caused the ESC error at that time (the firmware was just upgraded and I didn't know such feature existed)

This is what the beeping ESC looks and sounds like once the Mini has landed after receiving the Motor Speed Error warning.  In this case it was the left rear motor.



Your average motor speed numbers don't look all that bad at all.  The right-rear is spinning faster than the others, but not by much.  The fact that it is spinning faster though points to an issue with the prop blades on that motor, and it is likely that this motor was the one that first triggered your Motor Speed Error.

Obviously the motors will spin at different speeds while in active flight, depending on what manoeuvres are being performed, or what wind conditions are being fought.  But that's the beauty of the hover test if it's performed in calm air conditions.  In a stabie hover with no control inputs, there is no reason the motors shouldn't all be turning at the same speed.  If anything, the front motors could be spinning very slightly faster because the Mini is only a tiny bit nose-heavy.

hallmark007 Posted at 6-23 10:26
Don’t get bogged down in having tips of props curled up, the reason for this on dji props is a noise design, a lot of dji craft have this but many dji craft fly with perfectly straight props and the difference is noise. Mavic pro, P4pro , Mavic air, inspire, Matrice etc so the curl may effect noise but that it, if the curl was essential we would see many problems with aforementioned drones.
You could change rear props but I’m certain in two weeks time doing same hover test you will get similar results, so it’s my opinion if your props look ok and show no physical damage then the props are ok.

You are, yet again, missing the point.  Low noise props indeed have tips that curl up.  And those props have significantly different profiles compared to the Mini's props.  The low-noise curled tips function much like winglets on modern airliners to reduce wing-tip vortice induced drag.

The issue with the Mini's props has nothing to do with low-noise curled  wing tips.  The problem is that the entire prop blade is being bent when  the props are forced to fold over/under each other when crossed.

Zbip57 Posted at 6-24 06:42
You are, yet again, missing the point.  Low noise props indeed have tips that curl up.  And those props have significantly different profiles compared to the Mini's props.  The low-noise curled tips function much like winglets on modern airliners to reduce wing-tip vortice induced drag.

The issue with the Mini's props has nothing to do with low-noise curled  wing tips.  The problem is that the entire prop blade is being bent when  the props are forced to fold over/under each other when crossed.

They are not winglets the design is simply to lower noise and yes there is slight difference simply because of size of prop. You have now decided you know exactly why props are designed for mini and according to you it’s nothing to do with noise. Well you have shown no proof and testing consists of hovering your drone in your kitchen and if any difference is shown from motor to motor just change prop, but I continually see people coming back two weeks later with same problem.
Your test shows nothing except how mini behaves in its kitchen period. And regards curl in prop this is something you’re just making up, Mavic Air has tiny straight props and that craft flys really well except it’s noisy, they are not much bigger than mini props. So level with people and quit telling them their props are the only cause of this warning.

hallmark007 Posted at 6-23 10:26
Don’t get bogged down in having tips of props curled up, the reason for this on dji props is a noise design, a lot of dji craft have this but many dji craft fly with perfectly straight props and the difference is noise. Mavic pro, P4pro , Mavic air, inspire, Matrice etc so the curl may effect noise but that it, if the curl was essential we would see many problems with aforementioned drones.
You could change rear props but I’m certain in two weeks time doing same hover test you will get similar results, so it’s my opinion if your props look ok and show no physical damage then the props are ok.

Hallmark007 writes. "I think those above should give clear information when recommending changing props, that curl is designed to combat noise."
And once again he recommends, "if your props look ok and show no physical damage then the props are ok."

If your props have triggered a Motor Speed Error warning, then they certainly are not ok, even if they "look ok".  Do your own hover test, and you'll know for sure.

The problem stems from how the axis of the rear motors is at an angle canted outwards.  When the arms are folded back and the props are crossed across the Mini's body for storage, the rear propeller blades are forced to bend.  It is not merely the curled tip that gets bent.  It's the entire prop blade that is being stressed.

Check these photos.  You can see how the rear motors are canted outboard.  It doesn't make any difference whether the props have curled tips, or whether the props lie in a perfectly straight line with no curl.  The issue is that new prop blades cross and cannot be nested together unless one side or the other is bent down to fit under the other side.

In the third photo, one of the new left-rear blades (#1) is still standing free, whereas the other blade (#2) is just starting to bend as it is being forced to nest under the right-rear blades.  It is obvious from this photo how much stress is being applied to bend that blade (#2).  If it remains stored in that bent position for any length of time, it will be permanently deflected to retain that bent shape.  In that condition (even if it looks ok to you), the shape of the bent propeller is less effective at generating lift and the motor has to run faster to compensate.

The front propeller blades are less susceptible to being deformed like this because the front motor axis is not canted the same way as the rear motors.  When the front blades are stored crossed over the body, they slide more easily together without being bent.

If you've always stored your rear props crossed like this, and they slide easily to nest over/under each other, it's very likely they've already been permanently deformed.  Do the hover test, and you'll find out for certain.

Zbip57 Posted at 6-24 07:33
Hallmark007 writes. "I think those above should give clear information when recommending changing props, that curl is designed to combat noise."
And once again he recommends, "if your props look ok and show no physical damage then the props are ok."

You need to stop spewing out this rubbish, it looks like you have to much time on your hands, get a job or something. For all the rubbish you’ve posted, you base everything on a test carried out in your kitchen. No test outside, no continuing tests . Complete rubbish the one motor where you see problem just happens to be 95% the left rear, do you not find this incredible that no matter who actually fits the prop that the keep putting the bad one on left rear. But you don’t mention this you don’t even find it strange or coincidental and why ? Because it doesn’t fit into your ridiculous notions. Your problem is your in to deep now and can’t save face, so you have no choice to continue this charade. Just give the information dji have given that’s all that’s needed, let new users go fly which is why they got the drone, your someone who spends his time trying to make mountains out of mole hills. Give people a break go fly your drone.

hallmark007 Posted at 6-24 07:53
You need to stop spewing out this rubbish, it looks like you have to much time on your hands, get a job or something. For all the rubbish you’ve posted, you base everything on a test carried out in your kitchen. No test outside, no continuing tests . Complete rubbish the one motor where you see problem just happens to be 95% the left rear, do you not find this incredible that no matter who actually fits the prop that the keep putting the bad one on left rear. But you don’t mention this you don’t even find it strange or coincidental and why ? Because it doesn’t fit into your ridiculous notions. Your problem is your in to deep now and can’t save face, so you have no choice to continue this charade. Just give the information dji have given that’s all that’s needed, let new users go fly which is why they got the drone, your someone who spends his time trying to make mountains out of mole hills. Give people a break go fly your drone.

hallmark writes,"the one motor where you see problem just happens to be 95% the left  rear, do you not find this incredible that no matter who actually fits  the prop that the keep putting the bad one on left rear. But you don’t  mention this you don’t even find it strange or coincidental and why ?  Because it doesn’t fit into your ridiculous notions."

You might have a better chance of understanding if you spent a little more time reading and thinking before posting your responses.

Why is it almost always the left rear that causes the problem?  And why does the problem so often repeat itself, even after new blades are installed?

It is because the Mavic Mini is shipped and stored, as recommended by DJI, with the left-rear blades bent under the right-rear blades.  You may continue to believe that is a ridiculous notion.  I will also continue to dismiss your ridiculous babblings about defective firmware and your rambling preachings about how you think the props are perfectly fine.

DJI recommends folding the left-rear prop blades (A&B) under the right-rear for storage.  Doing that forces the left-rear props (1&2) to bend.  Ridiculous or not, the photos don't lie.

hallmark007 Posted at 6-24 07:53
You need to stop spewing out this rubbish, it looks like you have to much time on your hands, get a job or something. For all the rubbish you’ve posted, you base everything on a test carried out in your kitchen. No test outside, no continuing tests . Complete rubbish the one motor where you see problem just happens to be 95% the left rear, do you not find this incredible that no matter who actually fits the prop that the keep putting the bad one on left rear. But you don’t mention this you don’t even find it strange or coincidental and why ? Because it doesn’t fit into your ridiculous notions. Your problem is your in to deep now and can’t save face, so you have no choice to continue this charade. Just give the information dji have given that’s all that’s needed, let new users go fly which is why they got the drone, your someone who spends his time trying to make mountains out of mole hills. Give people a break go fly your drone.

Can you please take your nonsense out of this thread?

@zbip Don't feed the troll he doesn't listen, doesn't know who he's talking to anymore. He thinks your me (all I do is jump up and down in my kitchen singing sea shanty's about prawns), wants to bring up nonsense that has nothing to do with this thread and continues to not post anything useful that would actually help a new pilot. They should SEE for themselves if it's good, god forbid you give them an illustration on what's actually "BAD" but hey we should just let DJI be and never question anything, never do any tests for ourselves, nope god shall say'ith so be'ith.

It's a shame, I use to love helping people here but now I choose to bite my tongue and help selectivly instead of trying to be more supportive. I don't need or want people's threads to be derailed because these guy's have nothing more entertaining to do then some hot forum drama.

Zbip57 Posted at 6-24 08:49
hallmark writes,"the one motor where you see problem just happens to be 95% the left  rear, do you not find this incredible that no matter who actually fits  the prop that the keep putting the bad one on left rear. But you don’t  mention this you don’t even find it strange or coincidental and why ?  Because it doesn’t fit into your ridiculous notions."

You might have a better chance of understanding if you spent a little more time reading and thinking before posting your responses.
[Image]

Again complete BS, if that was the case then dji surely would have changed their packing procedure. And nearly all these users with problems are new users, Let’s face it you can’t let go you can’t explain anything unless it’s your way or the highway. You ignore anything else others have mentioned. You’ve been waffling about this for to long now, same thing , the very few who put up with your nonsense have less props now. The many who ignored are flying very happily with plenty of spare props including myself.

ABeardedItalian Posted at 6-24 09:00
Can you please take your nonsense out of this thread?

@zbip Don't feed the troll he doesn't listen, doesn't know who he's talking to anymore. He thinks your me (all I do is jump up and down in my kitchen singing sea shanty's about prawns), wants to bring up nonsense that has nothing to do with this thread and continues to not post anything useful that would actually help a new pilot. They should SEE for themselves if it's good, god forbid you give them an illustration on what's actually "BAD" but hey we should just let DJI be and never question anything, never do any tests for ourselves, nope god shall say'ith so be'ith.

Well as I said, others opinions don’t count, but proof is most have ignored your nonsense and it seems all is good. I think you fail to remember that you have passed comments out of the side of your mouth on many threads about me, it’s not something I feel the need to do about anyone, so I don’t have a problem coming on this open thread and advising others of the rubbish they are being sequestered to. It seems answering questions with the same diatribe is all that goes on here.

TheCav Posted at 6-23 23:34
I have a spare set that I could try, but frankly I'm a bit disappointed that carrying the Mini in its original Fly More Combo case, results in such misshaped props. Always took care of the props being stored as pictures inside the case.....
And with only a bunch of flights since I bought it, this is the result
Unfortunately I have not noticed which motor caused the ESC error at that time (the firmware was just upgraded and I didn't know such feature existed)

Those averages don't seem match the chart you posted above. Make sure to exclude anything below 8000, which should filter out the values recorded when the motors were spinning on the ground.
In Excel, you can use the formula =AVERAGEIF(A:A, ">8000"), where "A" is the column with the RPMs.

And to answer your question: no, they don't need to spin all at the same speed, the flight controller is capable of compensating. But it can compensate up to a certain point, and the Motor Speed Warning is there exactly to warn people that some props crossed that threshold. Does it mean your MM will fall from the sky on the next flight? No, in some cases props might be close to the threshold and the warning might be intermittent. It seems also that some users are making the warning disappear by refreshing the FW via Assistant, which would point to an issue witht the upgrade process. Only way to really see what's going on is to check the motor speeds, as those a direct indicator of how much lift the props are generating. Too high of a number, it means that those props have lost pitch, and they must be replaced. Period.

120ccpm Posted at 6-24 10:44
Those averages don't seem match the chart you posted above. Make sure to exclude anything below 8000, which should filter out the values recorded when the motors were spinning on the ground.
In Excel, you can use the formula =AVERAGEIF(A:A, ">8000"), where "A" is the column with the RPMs.

Just did the formula and here are the results indeed:

RF 10006
LF 9936
LB 10627
RB 10889