Super resolution describes a number of DSP techniques used to enhance image resolution from a set of similar pictures or video; usually icorporated in space, microscopy, forensic and intelligence applications.
But what the heck, drone imagery is a perfect candidate for it, so here's some free links
Images(for Matlab) https://decsai.ugr.es/pi/superresolution/software.html
Images(for Octave) https://github.com/Gansgar/FastRobustSR
Video(for Matlab 7.1 or earlier) http://users.soe.ucsc.edu/~milanfar/software/superresolution.html
If you don't fancy doing the hard yards you can also google for "super resolution online" to find some free services too.
you're welcome DAFlys,
it's nice knowing that someone takes interest in the subject. I've also attached my own script that implements a simple algorithm of super resolution for an AEB image set along with HDR blending. It uses imagemagick and hugin (simply 7unzip the contents of the msi for a portable installation)
Whilst not super resolution in the technical sense, the standard Mavic Pro camera is pretty amazing.
This low light photo that includes distant yachts in the harbour (see inset) has managed to capture a hint of the mast stay wires. Considering the distance and less than optimum light, I was greatly surprised to find such detail.
I have also used this drone to record the detail of overgrown bunkers over many acres of open land. To capture a zoomable image worth examining, I took a tiled approach with close up shots of the ground. After stitching, the file size and image size was enormous. Individual blades of grass without pixelation showed staggering detail was possible for large structures. The main reason for this approach was to show the layout of the individual structures within the whole area yet being able to zoom in on anything interesting. The usual way is to have one image as a map and individual photos referenced to it. A time consuming process.
AlansDronePics Posted at 7-6 01:24
Whilst not super resolution in the technical sense, the standard Mavic Pro camera is pretty amazing.
This low light photo that includes distant yachts in the harbour (see inset) has managed to capture a hint of the mast stay wires. Considering the distance and less than optimum light, I was greatly surprised to find such detail.
I have also used this drone to record the detail of overgrown bunkers over many acres of open land. To capture a zoomable image worth examining, I took a tiled approach with close up shots of the ground. After stitching, the file size and image size was enormous. Individual blades of grass without pixelation showed staggering detail was possible for large structures. The main reason for this approach was to show the layout of the individual structures within the whole area yet being able to zoom in on anything interesting. The usual way is to have one image as a map and individual photos referenced to it. A time consuming process.
Fantastic picture AlansDronePics; I use raw AEB and because it takes multiple shots you can very easily use it for super resolution, of course there's a trade off between lower noise and higher resolution.
I know that the stitching approach is used in photogammetry and photomapping but you must be a photoshop mage to pull it off without the appropriate software
heliaetus Posted at 7-6 04:04
Fantastic picture AlansDronePics; I use raw AEB and because it takes multiple shots you can very easily use it for super resolution, of course there's a trade off between lower noise and higher resolution.
I know that the stitching approach is used in photogammetry and photomapping but you must be a photoshop mage to pull it off without the appropriate software
Thank you. It was the detail the standard snapshot picked up that surprised me.
heliaetus Posted at 7-6 04:50
The lower the ISO the less noise you get hence the chance of finer details becoming apparent, so I bet that you used an ND filter.
Not sure I understand you?
The ISO would have been set at 100 but I seldom change that. The F is fixed at 2, I believe on MP. So a slow shutter would have been necessary because of low light. In that respect, you are right about the noise being as low as the camera is capable of. However, the longer exposure still generates increased thermal noise, all other things being equal. In that regard, I am surprised to see the fine wires and little thermal noise.
I do have ND filters, but have yet to find a reason to use them. Even in this video, the camera copes without filters. It is so bright here because of the sun and white rock that it makes the eyes water. I use Auto and the exposure compensation wheel. I over expose to see where I am going and adjust the exposure for the shot so all highlights are captured. The wheel is all I need to get spot on exposure. It may not be optimal in this vid, because some twat was also flying, but from the cliff top and I was preoccupied trying to get out of his way. There is no way he could see to fly safely from there.
I also use RAW with stills so the shadows can be lightened.
ND filters are great for extending exposure time . Typically this would be to make moving water misty. Next time you fly in sunlight, hover and turn the drone through 360 degrees, N,E,S,W and note the change in shutter speed at these 90 degree positions. There is no way a single ND filter will cater for that range of lighting. To do so would require a different filter at each 90 degree position. Who changes their filter so many times in a scene?
AlansDronePics Posted at 7-6 11:04
Not sure I understand you?
The ISO would have been set at 100 but I seldom change that. The F is fixed at 2, I believe on MP. So a slow shutter would have been necessary because of low light. In that respect, you are right about the noise being as low as the camera is capable of. However, the longer exposure still generates increased thermal noise, all other things being equal. In that regard, I am surprised to see the fine wires and little thermal noise.
I do have ND filters, but have yet to find a reason to use them. Even in this video, the camera copes without filters. It is so bright here because of the sun and white rock that it makes the eyes water. I use Auto and the exposure compensation wheel. I over expose to see where I am going and adjust the exposure for the shot so all highlights are captured. The wheel is all I need to get spot on exposure. It may not be optimal in this vid, because some twat was also flying, but from the cliff top and I was preoccupied trying to get out of his way. There is no way he could see to fly safely from there.
Fabulous footage of the smugglers' cove (I've been there a couple of times), clearly you're a professional. Sorry for my usage of the term ISO, but I've more of a DSP background and very little experience in photography, so I'm using Auto ISO and histogram when taking photos, and when I see low ISO I know I've enough light for a good picture or if I see a high ISO I know I used the wrong filter. Thank you for the tips. I use ND4,8,16,32PL & ND64.
I use some free tools that can enhance image, here are the links:
https://vanceai.com/image-enhancer/from VanceAI, an AI photo enhancement and editing tools provider
https://photoenhancer.ai
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