180w rapid charger and battery life
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Burlingtonfilms
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The new 180w charger, any word on whether it affects the life of your batteries compared to the standard 100w charger?
2015-7-4
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Ph02on
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short answer is yes. More so on the Tb47. The 100W power supply will charge at 1C. the new supply at closer to 2C,  on that basis, you will get fewer charges over the lifetime of the battery.
2015-7-4
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daniel.frederik
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Yes, let's hear it for slow charging!  I wish these Dji batteries were compatible with my programmable charger so I could charger a battery over night; this is so less taxing on battery chemistry.
2015-7-4
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GB44
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The downside is that the standard charger does get extremely hot, bordering on dangerous.  I picked up my standard charger after charging two TB47 batteries and nearly dropped the charger because it was so hot.
2015-7-5
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Ph02on
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GB44 Posted at 2015-7-5 19:30
The downside is that the standard charger does get extremely hot, bordering on dangerous.  I picked  ...

Try directing the airflow from a small table fan across the PSU.  I do this everytime I charge now with the psu suspended on a couple of pencils or something else to take it up from the surface and allow air to circulate underneath as well. This sounds crude but is actually very effective. Mine feels only luke warm to the touch, even after charging multiple batteries.
2015-7-5
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Outlander0088
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I just put them on their side when charging. This way they get air flow on the two larger surfaces, still feel warm but not hot. The heat is typical when charging devices. Every laptop I have owned has been warm to very warm.
2015-7-5
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dundee
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The 6pack gang charger i build a while ago works like a charm.

Stock PS 100 watt are really staying much cooler.
Seems like the cooling/ventilator is the way to go in a setup like this.

I also use the same box with the ventilator running to cool down my batteries after flight.
And that works like a charm too. About 5 minutes after air cooling, i can recharge.

2015-7-5
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RichJ53
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This is not a conventional charger, it is a power supply. The charging circuit is built into the battery and the power supply provides the necessary wattage / current. The protection circuit will not allow the power supply to damage the battery. In addition, the battery has a built in thermistor that will not allow you to begin the charge if the battery pack is to Hot. All pretty nice stuff for novice users and many of us more advanced users have been looking into other means to charge the batteries.  If you have the money and you would like a well designed solution, look into the Smart Power charging system. I believe this is one of the best pre-made solutions on the market that will not allow you to damage your stuff.

http://www.smartpowercharge.com/proddetail.php?prod=SPC4500  
  

The new 180 watt power supply provides the rated wattage the battery requires and in my opinion is not really not going to impact the life of the pack. Time will tell the rest of the story, but this should not significantly change how long the Inspire 1 battery lasts.
1> The real story is are the cells used in this battery of higher quality?
2> Can they handle the discharge rates that the Inspire 1  can dish out?
3> All of the user variables such as storing at full charge, dropping the battery below the recommended discharge cycle, temperatures the battery is being charged, temperatures the battery is being discharged....
many things can kill the life span of the Lipo battery. At these charging rates I would doubt you can impact the total life.

Here is some Lipo battery basic information from the latest AMA magazine by Greg Gimlick. Again I know that this is not exactly the Inspire battery voltage and type but it is good info.

Common Electric Terms.
When discussing electricity, two terms often come up: voltage and amperage (or volts and amps). You don’t have to be a scientist to understand what these terms mean. If you’ve ever used a water hose, you already know all you need to make informed decisions about batteries. Think of the hose as an electrical wire, and the water as electricity.

Voltage.
Voltage is the force or pressure of the electricity. With a garden hose, voltage is like the water pressure. For this article, think of a battery as a water pump providing pressure for the water.

Amperage.
Amperage is the unit of measurement of the amount of electrical flow or current. With a garden hose, this is the amount of water that can flow through the hose in a period of time.
Amperage is similar to the electrical equivalent of “gallons per minute.” Most of our equipment is measured in milliamps, which is 1/1,000th of an ampere. So a 3,300 mAh battery pack is 3.3 amperes.

Ohms.
Ohms is a measurement of resistance to the flow of electricity. With a garden hose, consider the flow of water through a large-diameter hose compared to that of a small-diameter hose. Water flows more freely through a larger hose than a smaller one. Electrical resistance is measured in ohms and is related to the ability of electrical components to let electricity travel through them. As do water hoses, electrical wire comes in different sizes. Larger-diameter wire lets electricity flow more freely than does smaller-diameter wire.
With electricity, the by-product of resistance is heat. The more power that is pushed through a wire, the hotter that wire will become. Heat in a wire indicates that you don’t have a large enough wire size for the amount of current that you are pushing through it. Too much heat can start a fire.

AWG.
AWG stands for American Wire Gauge, sometimes referred to as simply “gauge.” It is nothing more than a long term to describe the diameter of a wire. As you learned from electrical resistance, the more electricity you want to move through a wire, the bigger the wire must be to minimize resistance and control heat. AWG measurements are whole numbers—for example, 8 AWG or 12 AWG. A smaller number means a bigger wire. In the same way a larger hose allows more water to pass through it, each gauge of wire is rated for a specific maximum electrical throughput measured in amperes.

Many times, our batteries’ capacities are listed in milliampere hours (mAh) instead of ampere-hours (Ah). This is merely a metric conversion to a smaller unit—1 ampere hour = 1,000 milliampere hours, so 2.2 Ah is 2,200 mAh.
• Discharge rating: “C” represents a measure of the rate at which a battery can be discharged relative to its maximum capacity. If the battery is discharged at a rate higher than the discharge rating, the battery may be damaged, or worse, could pose a safety hazard, like a fire. If a battery’s discharge rating is 15C, it means that the most power that can be drawn from it at one time is equal to 15 times its capacity. Using the example of a battery which has a capacity of 2,200 mAh, this means that greatest flow of electricity you can safely get from the battery is 15 x 2,200 = 33,000 milliamperes (or 33 amperes). The discharge rating listed on the battery’s label is based on what the manufacturer believes the pack will handle during discharge without degrading the pack. These discharge ratings, sometimes mistakenly referred to as C ratings, can be optimistic and are best used as a guideline. Packs with higher discharge rates have lower internal resistance (IR), which is a good thing. Many batteries provide two discharge ratings such as 30C/60C. These represent the continuous and burst ratings. The first number means that it will continuously support a 30C discharge, and for short bursts (typically less than 15 seconds) it should support 60C. This allows for spikes during rapid throttle changes, but shouldn’t be something you use regularly. If you need higher current levels, buy a higher capacity/rated pack.
• Internal Resistance: This represents the internal resistance of a cell or pack. Some chargers will test the IR for each cell within a pack during the charge cycle. As internal esistance increases, the battery efficiency decreases. So as a general rule, the lower the resistance, the more punch a battery will provide. It’s nice to know, but not something to get hung up over as a beginner. As a rule, packs advertising a high discharge capacity will have a lower IR. Battery pack labels are often the manufacturer’s attempt to put its product in the best light. A pack rated as a 65C pack and sporting small-gauge wires to the connectors won’t really handle that amount of current. Sometimes packs come with large-gauge wires, but they’re soldered to tiny tabs inside the pack, which negate the benefit of those monster wires. Shop carefully and use the best battery you can afford.

The Secret to Long Life.
The secret, at least for your batteries, is to charge to 4.1 volts per cell as opposed to the full 4.2 volts per cell, and never discharge them to full discharge level. Working your packs in between the two ends of the charge/discharge levels will greatly increase their lifespan. Engineer/charger/ESC designer Doug Ingraham described it this way: “There are several things that cause degradation of lithium batteries. One is heat and for the purposes of RC modeling, this is most likely the one that causes the greatest degradation. The others have to do with the effects on the materials at both ends of the state of charge. “The lithium ions are forced into the carbon material on the plates at both ends of the state of charge. This causes a breakdown in the material, and in future charge cycles less ions can be held, causing degradation in capacity. It is mostly at the ends (full and empty) that this damage occurs, so staying away from the ends even a little can help extend the life of the cells.” Several chargers offer a charge cutoff labeled “Long Life” or something similar, and they stop the charge at 4.1 volts per cell. From Doug’s explanation, you can see that using the 4.1 volts keeps you off the top end and setting an ESC low-voltage cutoff above the traditional 3 volts per cell will keep you off the bottom end. Unless you’re a competitor trying to squeeze every last bit out of your flight, this will serve you well and save you money.


Rich
2015-7-5
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Ph02on
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RichJ53 Posted at 2015-7-6 00:59
This is not a conventional charger, it is a power supply. The charging circuit is built into the bat ...

Rich.  I must respectfully disagree with you.  Charging a lipo rated at 99.9Wh  (TB47) at 100W is bang on 1C charging rate.
Charging the same lipo at 180W is 1.8C charge rate.
This is a faster charge and WILL have an influence on how many times it can usefully be recharged.  It is basic lipo chemistry.  The higher the C charging rate you impose on the battery, the less times you can charge it.
You dont honestly think that DJI released this Power supply to appease the nice folks that complain about charging times do you?

Jason
2015-7-5
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GB44
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I was considering the new charger, but reading the two very useful posts by Rich and Ph02on, I think I will play safe and stick with the standard charger at least for now.
2015-7-5
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RichJ53
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Ph02on Posted at 2015-7-6 01:19
Rich.  I must respectfully disagree with you.  Charging a lipo rated at 99.9Wh  (TB47) at 100W is  ...

Hey Jason,

It is okay to disagree and I cool with that. Ultimately, time will tell as this power supply gets out in the hands of the owners. I believe, that DJI heard the complaints and rushed this to market along with the battery charging hub.

Best wishes,
Rich
   
2015-7-5
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RichJ53
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GB44 Posted at 2015-7-6 01:37
I was considering the new charger, but reading the two very useful posts by Rich and Ph02on, I think ...

Hey GB,

Sorry that you are passing on this one. As long as the smart power is not causing damage, I cannot believe this would impact the DJI warranty.

It is a nice multi charging unit, anyway this is only my opinion.
Rich
2015-7-5
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Ph02on
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RichJ53 Posted at 2015-7-6 02:06
Hey Jason,

It is okay to disagree and I cool with that. Ultimately, time will tell as this power  ...

Rich.  Maybe I am just getting Cynical in my old age.  Haha.

Regards.

Jason
2015-7-5
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RichJ53
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Ph02on Posted at 2015-7-6 02:52
Rich.  Maybe I am just getting Cynical in my old age.  Haha.

Regards.

No.... I get it, but I guess what I am getting at with my post is: The battery life cycle is going to be affected more by the user with all of the ways the battery (could be abused) than it is by the larger sized power supply.

Rich
2015-7-5
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GB44
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RichJ53 Posted at 2015-7-6 02:11
Hey GB,

Sorry that you are passing on this one. As long as the smart power is not causing damage, ...

Rich,

I value your comments mate.  I am just saying for the minute I think I will just stick with the standard stock charger.  It just give me a bit of a fright last time when I picked it up and it was so hot I nearly dropped it.  Will just take the advice from the forum and try and keep it cooled when in use.

Still may get the new charger in the future, when I save some pennies or bucks as you say in the states.

2015-7-5
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westland
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RichJ53 Posted at 2015-7-6 00:59
This is not a conventional charger, it is a power supply. The charging circuit is built into the bat ...

Seriously?   The Smart Power charging system costs ~$500 for something you can build for $20 (all of the charging control takes place inside the DJI batteries).  You can charge with a 3-battery charging plate http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-DJI- ... 26sd%3D141677903135 and a regulated power supply; you can discharge with a resistor.  The DJI supply is just a standard laptop AC wall adapter.  You can find them on eBay for $15.

If you want faster charge, buy 3-4 more batteries instead of the Smart Power system -- that will get you into the air with a fresh charge in 0 seconds.
2015-7-6
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DCGOO
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Ph02on Posted at 2015-7-6 01:19
Rich.  I must respectfully disagree with you.  Charging a lipo rated at 99.9Wh  (TB47) at 100W is  ...

Both batteries are spec'd to be charged at 180W.   Long before DJI ever actually offered a 180W charger.  There should be no difference using the 100 vs the 180 w powers supply, in terms of battery life.  Just less clock time spent charging.   
2015-7-6
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Ph02on
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DCGOO Posted at 2015-7-7 02:34
Both batteries are spec'd to be charged at 180W.   Long before DJI ever actually offered a 180W ch ...

No one is saying that both batteries cannot be charged at 180W.  However you will get fewer recharge cycles charging at 180W than you will at 100W.  A TB47 has a capacity of 99.9Wh.  Allow it to draw over 100W and you WILL have an impact on overall battery life.  It probably wont be a huge impact, but when DJI are charging £166 for a TB47 here in the UK, I personally try and squeeze every cycle I can get out of them.

Jason
2015-7-6
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Burlingtonfilms
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Hi guys, I ended up buying the 180w charger.

My reasons were, I have the 100w charger that comes with the inspire but a 180w will be more of a benefit if charging time becomes an issue.

I understand that the 180w charger "may" affect overall battery life but because it is an official DJI charger, I'm not that worried.

Thanks again for the replies.
2015-7-8
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leoamartinez
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GB44 Posted at 2015-7-6 01:37
I was considering the new charger, but reading the two very useful posts by Rich and Ph02on, I think ...

I have 4 TB48 and 1 TB47, i will stick to my 2 regular chargers, maybe i will buy the new hub, but no more than that!
2015-7-9
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IamMrchin
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So I am not aware of all of the equations that go into lipo charging, however what I can tell you is that I jumped on the rapid charger. So far the rapid charger has ruined 2 of my batteries a TB47 and a brand new TB48 (1 month new).
Currently some of my batteries give me an error when I try to use rapid charger. My advice, from experience, spend your money on more batteries and a standard chargers. Mathematically, if you have 6 batteries there is no way you can lose in the rotation.
2 charges - 6 batteries

15 minutes of flight time x 6 = 90 minutes of flying time
standard charge 40 minutes
You would run through only 3 batteries by the time your last 2 charge
  just FYI
2015-8-2
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mtnmaddman
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IamMrchin Posted at 2015-8-3 10:30
So I am not aware of all of the equations that go into lipo charging, however what I can tell you is ...

Has anyone timed the different chargers,  the 180 should charge the same battery that has been discharged to the same point in about half the time.  Does it do that?  Rich you still are right that the "charger " is a power supply the circuitry in the battery controls and balances the charge.  I can only assume that the smart battery can allow the higher current based on the detected voltage drop in the  "power supply"
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mtnmaddman
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RichJ53 Posted at 2015-7-6 02:06
Hey Jason,

It is okay to disagree and I cool with that. Ultimately, time will tell as this power  ...

Hey Rich
see if you agree with my above post
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mtnmaddman
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RichJ53 Posted at 2015-7-6 02:06
Hey Jason,

It is okay to disagree and I cool with that. Ultimately, time will tell as this power  ...

Hey Rich
See if you agree with my above post.
2015-8-2
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RichJ53
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mtnmaddman Posted at 2015-8-3 11:06
Has anyone timed the different chargers,  the 180 should charge the same battery that has been dis ...


Hey mtn

I do not own the 180 watt power supply. Yes this will charge the battery quicker and the smart battery system will be just fine. Look in the manual or the DJI webpage to see the specs. 180 is the max current until the battery protection circuit takes over and trips the charge off. I am using the Smart power charge system and it works very well for all of your charging needs. There is plenty of threads on battery charging and DJI just came out the 180 watt power supply most likely listening to the forum chatter.

http://www.smartpowercharge.com/proddetail.php?prod=SPCP3

You will get different opinions on this subject, so whatever works for you

Rich
2015-8-3
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sultangris01
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Ph02on Posted at 2015-7-7 02:52
No one is saying that both batteries cannot be charged at 180W.  However you will get fewer recharg ...

isnt it supposed to be a smart battery and not draw power at a rate that could damage it?

Im new to recharging li-po batteries and am curious how many times are these batteries supposed to be able to be recharged before they start having problems?  how many less times do you surmise that would be if you use the faster charging adapter assuming it does in fact shorten their life?  Ive got a few tb47 batteries that ive charged around 34 times, one of which shows 100% battery life and one shows 96% for some reason.  unsure of what different factors may have caused the 4% difference in the two being charged the same number of times and treated virtually identically.  

Will the battery life percent ever increase perhaps after the recommended full discharge till it powers itself off and then recharge cycle? They state to do that in the manual but some people say thats a very bad thing to do to a li-po battery and you should never discharge it lower than 20%.  You suppose a vast conspiracy they say to do that to make everyone ruin their batteries and have to buy new ones more often? lol!   I dont think i completed that process on all my batteries at 20 charges like they recommend but I have no idea which ones i did and which i didnt.  Wonder if thats the reason for the discrepancy in battery life.  I spose i should number them to avoid this confusion in the future.
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