dacofty Posted at 2016-1-21 00:51
I agree I have a guy who is making one out of Aluminum and one out of thin stainless steel.  I wil ...

I'd think that stainless would be really heavy.

bobasbury Posted at 2016-1-23 07:59
I'd think that stainless would be really heavy.

it is heavy.. way to heavy, strike that one off

ScottyT Posted at 2015-7-10 06:58
Anyone tried these?

i just made one today it did work for me i didnt lose signal at all in an area that i always did b4 . i didnt test the distance yet to see if it works but my video never got choppy or dropped

I made one and noticed an improvement. Later I trimmed an aluminum soda can and used it over the foil and it seems to work even better. I also made my own sunshade with black cardboard. I have done more arts and crafts after buying this since middle school.

Would this cause a problem with the standard rc since the wifi antennas are inside the case?  Would the shield block the wifi?

i was thinking the same thing, infact came to forum to see if anyone else asked that question.  Found this thread.  After i made the one floating around i found that it was way to large and wouldnt fit on the standard atnenna properly and allow the device holder to be used.  I cut the bottom off of it almost to the middle... it fit ok at that point but appeared to block the side antennas in the controller.. was wondering if there was infact a template running around just for the smaller standard antenna but havent found one in any google search.

dewayt@gmail.co Posted at 2016-1-26 15:06
i was thinking the same thing, infact came to forum to see if anyone else asked that question.  Foun ...

Here is the one i made.  I made it out of a round cylinder shipping tube, heavy duty card board and used the plastic tops trimmed into place, you got to cut it down in size so the parabolic shape is good, mine is on point last flight was over 13000ft.  it doesnt interfere with the 2 antennas positioned to the outside.  in fact when the booster failed the video remained.

http://www.vapourosity.com/images/Untitled-1.jpg

dacofty Posted at 2016-1-26 15:39
Here is the one i made.  I made it out of a round cylinder shipping tube, heavy duty card board an ...

do you have the dimensions of the tube?

dewayt@gmail.co Posted at 2016-1-26 20:23
do you have the dimensions of the tube?

its about a 5" tube

thanks, was just trying to get an idea of what size it would need to be...  maybe a pringles can or something similar.

try this if you want to fly to the moon

http://www.turnpoint.net/wireless/cantennahowto.html

I will make some out of my old stainless strainer I don't use.  the holes are small enough not to bother the signal.



I read aluminum tape will work as well as anything else you try on the 3d printed ones.  there's lots of information on the web about reflecting for wifi and what works well.

cool topic

Nice! Got to try this either with paper, or print once I get the 3D printer going again....!

giufini Posted at 2015-8-5 11:34
Hi guys, I have very good news for everyone who owns a 3D printer: now you can print by yourself you ...

Just printed it, with some adventures, but it worked out.I found that the top does not print well, perhaps i needed to enable suppiorts, anyhow, I ended up cutting top off, and reprinting part again, then gluing it together (5 second fix, UV glue). I just happened to have some copper adhesive tape, so I used it. As soon as the wheather is better I will see how soon i can run a range test. Looking forward to it!
I had to file the holes to be a bit bigger, as after my glue job, I think it's a bit longer than original.
I might actually cut it in half and post as either "print 2 and glue, or print both parts at once, then glue...  Maybe my 3d printer is old, but, it really did not do the top well.... ;)
Giufini, thx for making this available! Very cool!
GT


P.S. I attempted to post my modification, hope this will work out for some who want to print on their own!
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1571462

Hi guys, I wish to inform you that my Range Boosters for DJI drones are now available with lower prices!
Have a look at the following pages for more info about my products:

DJI Phantom 4 / 3 / Inspire 1 Range Boosters:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:946565

DJI Phantom 3 Standard (or Phantom 2) Range Boosters:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1096728

Each Range Booster is made with a professional-grade 3D printer, using high-quality impact resistant materials.

Willie Wonka Posted at 2015-7-10 12:53
What works better is stand in front of your car it will make a nice reflector if it's made out of me ...

My Lamborghini Sesto Elemento still helps to increase the signal range.


Just kidding, I think anything standing behind the operator can help a bit, since they reflect more signals back than just air.

Thx for sharing that, I just did it, I'll try it this week!

That thing really works, and it actually works impressively good. In an urban area in chicago, i wouldnt be able to go more than 250 feet, today i just went 856 before it started to get messy. I will try it in the forest on sunday, to see the effect, definately worth the 30 min

I made them and it works! I'm so happy to have a 100 meter signal boost! thx!

spheasant1 Posted at 2015-8-10 06:04
For everyone's information...here is a link to ebay that looks just like Giuseppe's except you can e ...

Get the foldable copper set. I first tried the homemade version and was amazed at the increase but they don't hold up for long.

I ordered the foldable copper set. First, the individual ones tend to make the antennas flop sideways. Second, because they are hinged they fold up nicely, are protected when not in use and easily fit into my backpack.

I never fly without them but you do need to move around and keep the drone on the radar between 11 and 2 o'clock.

skipilot1 Posted at 2016-8-29 14:48
Get the foldable copper set. I first tried the homemade version and was amazed at the increase but ...

These all worked great for me also. I have a P3A and first tried the printable ones and glued the aluminum foil to them. Doubled the range for sure. I did some research and although copper is more conductive, I made a set of those and there was no difference at  all compared to the aluminum foils ones. I also bought a copper set and they did no better than the other two and like someone mentioned, they fall apart if you don't get the ones that hook together. All of them are inexpensive boosters to the stock setup. I finally stepped up to the ARGTEK ones and have stayed with those. Not trying to get off subject with that but thought I would share my good luck with the ones you are talking about. You won't believe the difference any of them will make!

ScottyT Posted at 2015-7-9 18:58
Anyone tried these?

I tried this awhile back and it definitely extended the range, no question. But, I found some similar ones that were 3d printed on Ebay and they work great.

What I want to know is where the hell are you'll going? LOL!

To each their own but my principle is almost never more than 400 yards or less away from me.

If I have a subject I want to shoot a mile away, I'll drive there and set up.  Maybe it's just the DP in me.  You shoot where you're at, not where you want to be, unless you're a documentarian.  That's one of a few reason I see to break this rule.

If you're flying for fun, then you should be flying a DIY quad anyway.  I know these are just my feelings and everyone is entitled to their own's though.  I'm not going to lie and say I didn't enjoy getting a cool feeling when I would send my P3 a couple miles away but I wouldn't even try that with the P4 remote (too weak).

But if I wanted to, I would boost it, just don't see the need.  I fly for 3 reasons now. 1) fun 2) vacation 3) for film.

Almost none of those reasons need me going 3 miles away from the RC not would I want to.  With each meter away, you're accidental crucial failure percentage change increases.  That's a number I like low.

That is why my Inspires, they don't go anywhere but for where they are shooting. The farthest they go is dependent on the shot needed and I've sent them out over the sea a mile before.

Hello.

I just got a windsurfer from aliexpress and got range about 1000m. Without windsurfer i got 1680m.

If you were to remove the plastic shell from the stock antenna, what you would see would be a piece of coax cable that had the insulator and shield removed very close to the end,  leaving a tiny bit of the center conductor exposed.  That is what radiates the signal from the r/c.  Parabolic type range boosters work by taking this omnidirectional signal and reflecting it in more or less one direction.  The copper used in the reflectors  is mostly a gimmick.  In this application,  aluminum foil,  aluminumized mylar or similar would do just as well so long as it was wrinkle free.  The reflective qualities of aluminum and copper are quite similar in this respect.   Also,  there is no need to put the reflective surface on the face of the range booster.  It will work just as well if you attach it to the back,  or even embed it into the plastic.  The rf produced by the Phantoms r/c goes right through the plastic.  Otherwise,  the stock antennas plastic housing would prevent any signal from getting out.  It is important that you have the antenna pointed as directly at the aircraft as possible, because these things have 0 performance to the side.  For anyone interested in getting the maximum performance from any antenna system,  I recommend the ARRL antenna handbook.  It is THE definitive source of antenna theory,  design and information

Kneepuck Posted at 2017-5-5 07:32
If you were to remove the plastic shell from the stock antenna, what you would see would be a piece of coax cable that had the insulator and shield removed very close to the end,  leaving a tiny bit of the center conductor exposed.  That is what radiates the signal from the r/c.  Parabolic type range boosters work by taking this omnidirectional signal and reflecting it in more or less one direction.  The copper used in the reflectors  is mostly a gimmick.  In this application,  aluminum foil,  aluminumized mylar or similar would do just as well so long as it was wrinkle free.  The reflective qualities of aluminum and copper are quite similar in this respect.   Also,  there is no need to put the reflective surface on the face of the range booster.  It will work just as well if you attach it to the back,  or even embed it into the plastic.  The rf produced by the Phantoms r/c goes right through the plastic.  Otherwise,  the stock antennas plastic housing would prevent any signal from getting out.  It is important that you have the antenna pointed as directly at the aircraft as possible, because these things have 0 performance to the side.  For anyone interested in getting the maximum performance from any antenna system,  I recommend the ARRL antenna handbook.  It is THE definitive source of antenna theory,  design and information

Tnx om. Will try to replace with AL.