This is the only drone imo where the drone battery and fly more combo isn't enough depending on where you are.  In some areas, it's incredibly boring and I just want to fly one pack.  I think 6 batteries should be enough.  I've ran 9 packs w/o recharging the remote and goggle batteries over 3 days.  It can be done.

If you aren't in manual mode ripping packs I can easily get well over 10 minutes in Sport mode.  If I'm going all out in manual around 6 minutes or less but I get worried the wear would ruin the motors.

I think DJI should make the new DJI drones off the DJI V2 system (to start, a new Inspire).  The latency is a dream to fly.

They honestly made the DJI FPV drone as everything you could want in an FPV system.  It may not have the yaw or roll gimbal control like the Mavics or Inspires but this is FPV and for what it does in FPV, it does perfectly.  I have DJI RE Goggles and Mavic 2 Zoom/Pro drones.  I don't like flying in it.  It's disorienting, probably due to the lag and slow speeds.

Also, Planetside 2 is an amazing game with over 1100 players playing on 1 map during prime time.  Way better than Battlefield 2042 and Call of Duty.

Hello there AntDX316. Good day and thank you for creating this poll. I hope that our DJI co pilots can give out there insights with regards to this matter. Thank you for your support and please stay safe always.

So far I'm okay with 3 batteries. My spotters aren't up to much more time anyway. Don't know how it will play out on holiday when visiting multiple sights a day. Probably should get a car charger. Not very happy hearing that DJI says the batteries are supposed to last only 100 cycles...

Depp Posted at 4-6 21:50
So far I'm okay with 3 batteries. My spotters aren't up to much more time anyway. Don't know how it will play out on holiday when visiting multiple sights a day. Probably should get a car charger. Not very happy hearing that DJI says the batteries are supposed to last only 100 cycles...

ouch, 100 cycles,  thats getting expensive to fly.

Depp Posted at 4-6 21:50
So far I'm okay with 3 batteries. My spotters aren't up to much more time anyway. Don't know how it will play out on holiday when visiting multiple sights a day. Probably should get a car charger. Not very happy hearing that DJI says the batteries are supposed to last only 100 cycles...

"DJI says the batteries are supposed to last only 100 cycles"

I wonder if the PCB from the pack could be used with new cells.
The pack isn't very hard to open. Removing the old cells and replacing them with new cells would be a lot of work though and I'm not sure if it would be worth the extra effort. I'm also not sure if the PCB would work with fresh cells installed.
In case any of you haven't seen my post about the inside of the battery, here's a link.

I got six more batteries after my first crash where I totalled the one I got with the drone :-) Six is enough for almost two hours of training in acro every day.

DJI Stephen Posted at 4-6 21:08
Hello there AntDX316. Good day and thank you for creating this poll. I hope that our DJI co pilots can give out there insights with regards to this matter. Thank you for your support and please stay safe always.

5 at the moment.

I want at least 5, I got the fly more combo without the additional batteries, claims from Adorama its on backorder. Very dishonest from them to list things as in stock... but anyway i dont think this drone is worth flying without at least 5.

6 batteries at the moment, maybe 9 soon

3 good yo

riht

First, I bought a fly more combo (2 pack).....Then I just had to have another set of 2 pack, just because I was having so much fun, plus the flight times were only about 8 minutes per pack.

I have a Total of 5 batteries now.

Stanislav Vasiliev Posted at 4-7 09:30
I got six more batteries after my first crash where I totalled the one I got with the drone :-) Six is enough for almost two hours of training in acro every day.

Show some vids of that acro flying.  I used to like Acro flying but it feels too dangerous to be worth doing.  If Sports mode didn't exist and the camera lens angle was locked, no doubt manual is better but the camera angle remains leveled in Sports mode and Sports mode makes Coordinated S-turns perfectly so it makes no sense to it the hard way unless you are doing lots of tricks of course.

AntDX316 Posted at 4-11 22:17
Show some vids of that acro flying.  I used to like Acro flying but it feels too dangerous to be worth doing.  If Sports mode didn't exist and the camera lens angle was locked, no doubt manual is better but the camera angle remains leveled in Sports mode and Sports mode makes Coordinated S-turns perfectly so it makes no sense to it the hard way unless you are doing lots of tricks of course.

I'm preparing a review where there will be a lot of footage, so nothing really impressive on the web right now, but you can check "DJI FPV" highlights in my Instagram account, there are few samples, including the crash: https://instagram.com/q3d2

You know, I'm training acro mostly for diving near waterfalls and cliffs. It's the only thing I really need it for and it's impossible to dive in sport. Also in acro its max ascent speed is around 29 m/s, so you can in few seconds be way higher than in sport mode.

Stanislav Vasiliev Posted at 4-12 13:18
I'm preparing a review where there will be a lot of footage, so nothing really impressive on the web right now, but you can check "DJI FPV" highlights in my Instagram account, there are few samples, including the crash: https://instagram.com/q3d2

You know, I'm training acro mostly for diving near waterfalls and cliffs. It's the only thing I really need it for and it's impossible to dive in sport. Also in acro its max ascent speed is around 29 m/s, so you can in few seconds be way higher than in sport mode.

yeah, but I want to see not the best ones

AntDX316 Posted at 4-12 18:02
yeah, but I want to see not the best ones

Again, it's better to look in my highlights. Or are you interested to see just some training, like how I'm flying around the trees and my car, trying not to crash? ;-) Uploaded a sample for you to my YouTube:

Stanislav Vasiliev Posted at 4-12 19:30
Again, it's better to look in my highlights. Or are you interested to see just some training, like how I'm flying around the trees and my car, trying not to crash? ;-) Uploaded a sample for you to my YouTube:
https://youtu.be/RseLsRWsVa0

yeah, you need to adjust your settings

AntDX316 Posted at 4-12 22:19
yeah, you need to adjust your settings

You mean the rates?

Stanislav Vasiliev Posted at 4-13 02:02
You mean the rates?

rates, expo, sens

AntDX316 Posted at 4-13 11:00
rates, expo, sens

You are right, but I'm not sure what is the right direction to change the settings. I mean maybe you know an algorithm, how to find optimal rates, expo and sensitivity? I remember when I had to change sensitivity for my mouse in FPS, it was pretty straightforward. But here are three parameters. When I started changing them I found that drone control is not worth or better - it's different. And I can't decide is it OK for me or I have to change more.

Stanislav Vasiliev Posted at 4-13 12:40
You are right, but I'm not sure what is the right direction to change the settings. I mean maybe you know an algorithm, how to find optimal rates, expo and sensitivity? I remember when I had to change sensitivity for my mouse in FPS, it was pretty straightforward. But here are three parameters. When I started changing them I found that drone control is not worth or better - it's different. And I can't decide is it OK for me or I have to change more.

I'm not sure exactly.  I used to try to mess w/ each setting.  I don't even bother with manual.  Doing tricks in the air gets old.  I just prefer to super cruise.

Adjusting the rates on this is quite simple. To start off with you have a linear line from top right to bottom left. Left as stock, the drone will be quite twitchy. As you alter the rates, add expo etc, you will notice that the line in the middle will curve and flatten out slightly. The bigger the curve or flat area at centre stick, the softer the movement. It dampens the input to the drone. however, once your movement moves out of that curve, it speeds up again. You have to be careful to not dampen it too much though as this can have a reverse effect when trying to avoid an obstacle or trying to come out of a move. each pilot will have a different setting to the other. It's literally a case of altering it to your individual flying style. Short version = More curve at centre stick = smoother cruising with sharp reactions at the edge of the stick movement. Linear curve or straight line as per stock = sharp response through the whole stick range. Hope this helps a little. Expo is like a dampener. Rate is how quick the drone reacts to stick inputs. High rate = vey quick response, Low rate = steady response. More expo = Softer control, Less expo = Sharper control.

I have 3 total. Possibly getting a 4th.

Just 3 currently.

CoreyB10 Posted at 4-14 03:18
Adjusting the rates on this is quite simple. To start off with you have a linear line from top right to bottom left. Left as stock, the drone will be quite twitchy. As you alter the rates, add expo etc, you will notice that the line in the middle will curve and flatten out slightly. The bigger the curve or flat area at centre stick, the softer the movement. It dampens the input to the drone. however, once your movement moves out of that curve, it speeds up again. You have to be careful to not dampen it too much though as this can have a reverse effect when trying to avoid an obstacle or trying to come out of a move. each pilot will have a different setting to the other. It's literally a case of altering it to your individual flying style. Short version = More curve at centre stick = smoother cruising with sharp reactions at the edge of the stick movement. Linear curve or straight line as per stock = sharp response through the whole stick range. Hope this helps a little. Expo is like a dampener. Rate is how quick the drone reacts to stick inputs. High rate = vey quick response, Low rate = steady response. More expo = Softer control, Less expo = Sharper control.

Thanks a lot :-) You explained it very good. The only problem - I'm not sure I see any curves in the goggles, and in the Fly app there are no controls for the drone at all. At the moment my Fly app gives me only the live feed without any menus or overlays. So I have to change all the settings through goggles UI right in the field.

In general It's almost the same process like changing sticks sensitivity for a Mavic. The question is how to find optimal ones for me. I mean how to check the values during the flight to understand that now they are much better. For example, when I change mouse sensitivity for FPS, I can do a movement with my wrist and if the rotation was 210 degrees, than I lower the sensitivity until the same movement results 180 degree turn (not more and not less). After it I start changing vertical sensitivity and check after every change that it's more or less accurate. What is the right way to check rates on FPV? To do rolls after every change, or to do some other movements?

Stanislav Vasiliev Posted at 4-22 07:56
Thanks a lot :-) You explained it very good. The only problem - I'm not sure I see any curves in the goggles, and in the Fly app there are no controls for the drone at all. At the moment my Fly app gives me only the live feed without any menus or overlays. So I have to change all the settings through goggles UI right in the field.

In general It's almost the same process like changing sticks sensitivity for a Mavic. The question is how to find optimal ones for me. I mean how to check the values during the flight to understand that now they are much better. For example, when I change mouse sensitivity for FPS, I can do a movement with my wrist and if the rotation was 210 degrees, than I lower the sensitivity until the same movement results 180 degree turn (not more and not less). After it I start changing vertical sensitivity and check after every change that it's more or less accurate. What is the right way to check rates on FPV? To do rolls after every change, or to do some other movements?

Change the sensitivity in small amounts and test. Same with the rates and expo. Everyone has their own figures at to how they fly. It's all a thing of taste. For example, mine are this on all 3 rows = Sensitivity - 140. Rate - 150 and Expo - 0,45. They are perfect for me and give me a good response to stick movements and amount of ontrol. I like low level cruising nd like the movements to be as smooth as possible. It's all well and good having the camera stabilisation, but if the stick movements / flight in the goggles are jerky then you won't be happy. I know when a video is going to look nice for this reason. If it looks sweet in the goggles, then it's going to look even sweeter from the drone SD card. You will find though, that as you get to know how she flies, you may well change the rates as your flying style develops.

Stanislav Vasiliev Posted at 4-12 19:30
Again, it's better to look in my highlights. Or are you interested to see just some training, like how I'm flying around the trees and my car, trying not to crash? ;-) Uploaded a sample for you to my YouTube:
https://youtu.be/RseLsRWsVa0

Hello !!

Assuming that you have chosen the wrong drone to learn acro FPV flight I highly recommend that you practice gas handling and keep the drone guidelines.

Later I would worry about being able to do Split-S, flips and various stunts.

Unfortunately on this drone you can only change the rates and not the PIDs ....

Greetings

I absolutely Adore The DJI FPV and the Motion controller. I really hope they make a Mini FPV like a "cine whoop" Motion Controller compatible of course ! I would definitely Buy That !

DJI Stephen Posted at 4-6 21:08
Hello there AntDX316. Good day and thank you for creating this poll. I hope that our DJI co pilots can give out there insights with regards to this matter. Thank you for your support and please stay safe always.

You guys should make a Mini FPV , whoop style !

12, 6 pcs mp2 and 6 pcs fpv and a lot off R-Line batteries

Depp Posted at 4-6 21:50
So far I'm okay with 3 batteries. My spotters aren't up to much more time anyway. Don't know how it will play out on holiday when visiting multiple sights a day. Probably should get a car charger. Not very happy hearing that DJI says the batteries are supposed to last only 100 cycles...

100 cycles is normal for a LiPo that is run down to minimum charge

Keep it above 3.7V per cell and it will last hundreds of cycles.

bjr981s Posted at 5-21 06:35
100 cycles is normal for a LiPo that is run down to minimum charge

Keep it above 3.7V per cell and it will last hundreds of cycles.

Would love to. How do I know if it's above 3,7V? It shows percentage. What's the range DJI sets for 100%? 4,2V? And what is 0%?

Depp Posted at 5-21 07:51
Would love to. How do I know if it's above 3,7V? It shows percentage. What's the range DJI sets for 100%? 4,2V? And what is 0%?

You can get this sort of data from the logs.


3.70V is about 70% battery.


IMO, this is more conservative than you need to be to get the batteries to last a reasonably long time.

I think 3.5V is still plenty safe. 3.5V is about 40%.

The type of flying will also greatly affect battery life. High current discharges will kill a battery much faster than a leisurely flight.

The AirData site will output maps showing how much current you used.

Here's the map of the flight which drained the battery to 41%.



In case anyone reading isn't aware of how to access data logs, I posted the way I access these logs in post #4 of this thread.

For some reason I can't reply directly to Duane's post, so here goes:
Thanks. Well, going down to 70 % only isn't really an option. I fly to 30 %. If that kills it so be it. Who knows how long we fly this drone anyway.

Depp Posted at 5-21 22:55
For some reason I can't reply directly to Duane's post, so here goes:
Thanks. Well, going down to 70 % only isn't really an option. I fly to 30 %. If that kills it so be it. Who knows how long we fly this drone anyway.

I cant reply to his post either.

He has made a number of errors in his percentages that I wanted to point out to him.

"IMO, this is more conservative than you need to be to get the batteries to last a reasonably long time.

I think 3.5V is still plenty safe. 3.5V is about 40%."

The batteries will show a different voltage when under load. They will rise by .2V per cell once load is released. 3.5V is not 40% its less than 30%. You will see this from a Lipo checker on a standard Lipo. DJI use LiHvs so the % is even lower.

3.7V is not 70%. 3.8 Volts which is the storage charge for Lipos is 60%.

3.7V is the nominal voltage of the battery approx 50% each 0.1 of a volt is approximately 10%

3.5V under load is about 30 percent remaining.  

3.5V under load will revert to 3.7V idle.

As the storage charge decreases in the battery the C rating of the battery is reduced. You risk brownouts if full throttle is applied on a low battery.

I fly Fixed wing ducted fan jets. It is considered good practise to land your jet once you get to 3.7V per cell. You risk your jet if you fly below this level and require to do a go round with go round power.

DIJI use LiHv batteries not normal LiPos. They have a full charge of 4.4V per cell.

The % gauge that DJI provide is a Watt meter gauge not voltage.

The intelligent battery checks the power that is delivered from the battery and the power that is used to charge the battery. This also calculates the Lifetime Report.

The gauge is only accurate if it is calibrated every 3 months as recommended by DJI. You need to fully discharge the battery (Which does do some damage) and then charge it fully. This calibrates that battery.

The "Fuel" gauge then represents the power available in the battery and accounts for battery age and cycle count.

If you do not calibrate the fuel gauge the data it provides will be wrong.

You will see reports that people will say that their battery / Fuel gauge goes down suddenly by 1% or more per second the suddenly drone falls from the sky. This is due to incorrect calibration. If you do not follow the calibration process do not rely on the gauge.

Cheers


For DJI normal drones its easy to check the battery voltage in the App and make your own decision based on voltage level.

bjr981s Posted at 5-22 02:42
I cant reply to his post either.

He has made a number of errors in his percentages that I wanted to point out to him.

All very confusing.
My take away:
best not to go down below 50% (3.7v at 50% sounds much better).
When down at 30 or 40 % don't use full throttle.
Store around 60%.
Run the battery completely dry every 3 months (why don't they incorporate an automatic calibration after x cycles?) and recharge it fully.

bjr981s Posted at 5-22 02:42
I cant reply to his post either.

He has made a number of errors in his percentages that I wanted to point out to him.

"DIJI use LiHv batteries not normal LiPos. They have a full charge of 4.4V per cell."

Not the FPV batteries. The FPV batteries has 4.2V cells.(full charge). A fully charged pack is 25.2V/ (6x4.2V). Maybe other DJI drones have higher voltage batteries but the FPV drone does not.

"The batteries will show a different voltage when under load. "

The data logs will show some of this. The graph which ends at 3.7V was a low energy and low power flight. The voltages of the cells didn't drop much from the load but it I think you're right about the 0.2V per cell drop. Here's an example of a flight with a higher load at times. The cells voltages dropped even more for a time.


I wish the log didn't end where it does. I think you're right about the cell recovery. It would be nice if the log included the recoved voltage.

"The gauge is only accurate if it is calibrated every 3 months as recommended by DJI."
You know we're talking about the FPV drone battery right? Where does DJI recommend calibrating the battery every 3 months?

"3.7V is not 70%. 3.8 Volts which is the storage charge for Lipos is 60%."

I used the logs to determine the cell voltages at the end of the flight. I also used the percent battery charge from the log. If these values are wrong (and I think you're correct to say they're not), where does one get the correct values?

I suppose we could measure the total voltage of the pack after the flight to figure this out. It would be kind of nice if the logs contained this information.

Duane Degn Posted at 5-22 10:15
"DIJI use LiHv batteries not normal LiPos. They have a full charge of 4.4V per cell."

Not the FPV batteries. The FPV batteries has 4.2V cells.(full charge). A fully charged pack is 25.2V/ (6x4.2V). Maybe other DJI drones have higher voltage batteries but the FPV drone does not.

I have not pulled a FPV pack apart to check.

DJI have been elusively using LiHV batteries since the introduction of the Mavic Pro. The only exception to date was the Mavic Mini 1 that used LiOn batteries and that was a dismal failure. LiOn do not have the same power to weight as LiPo and LiHv. The mini 1suffers from not enough power to maintain hover on low battery in any wind.

The characteristics of the calibration is for all DJI smart batteries. That is just a mechanism of how the Smarts work to take battery age and used charge cycles into account.

DJI are not very good at restating procedures they expect that everyone has been part of the drone journey with them.

I would expect that over time and after many complaints about battery issues they will reiterate the maintenance procedure.

To date I have only lost 2 DJI batteries and one was a faulty cell on a Mavic Pro 1 drone. It refuses to balance charge. I am going to pull it down at some stage and check what the actual issue is and inspect the battery smarts. Currently I am just using it as a battery bank for my phone.

The other a Phantom 4 Pro Plus battery that died on first charge. (Unrecoverable firmware error) It was  returned to the seller after many communications attempt and never returned. It was from a Local camera company that folded.

I only buy from the DJI website now,

Cheers

p.s. I cant confim that the FPV is LiHv at this time. Will find out though.

bjr981s Posted at 5-25 04:48
I have not pulled a FPV pack apart to check.

DJI have been elusively using LiHV batteries since the introduction of the Mavic Pro. The only exception to date was the Mavic Mini 1 that used LiOn batteries and that was a dismal failure. LiOn do not have the same power to weight as LiPo and LiHv. The mini 1suffers from not enough power to maintain hover on low battery in any wind.

"I cant confim that the FPV is LiHv at this time."

They are not.

Even without pulling a pack apart (which I've done) you can measure the voltage of the full pack. The full pack voltage confirms the voltage I read from the individual cells.

Just power on a pack and measure the voltage. You'll see it's very close to 25.2V as one would expect with a 4.2V cell pack.
Edit: I quoted the wrong line previously. I had a line from a different forum.

Depp Posted at 5-22 06:10
All very confusing.
My take away:
best not to go down below 50% (3.7v at 50% sounds much better).

"Run the battery completely dry every 3 months (why don't they incorporate an automatic calibration after x cycles?) and recharge it fully."

I would suggest not draining your battery like that unless DJI confirms it's needed for calibration. This process isn't mentioned anywhere in the FPV drone's manual. The information provided by @bjr981s is not accurate regarding the FPV batteries.

Duane Degn Posted at 5-25 07:27
"then use that variable with the SPI object."

They are not.

Near 25.2 volts is meaningless in that context.

You cannot charge a LiPo or LiHV to its full potential. To do so would require a charge voltage of over 4.2V or 4.4V in the case of an LIHV. Current only flows when there is a potential difference. Most of my batteries drop by 0.2Volts per cell after removal from the charger. As I am sure yours do as well. Ask an Electronics Engineer. Did I forget to mention I am an electronics engineer.   

Anyhow your batteries you do as you see fit.

The other reason DJI ask you to deplete and recharge the batteries every 3 months is that they will discharge themselves to fully flat and self destruction.

The auto discharge will bring them down to storage level but the Smarts in the battery is still drawing minimal power. It will drain the battery flat in 4-5 months.

The statements on Battery maintenance from DJI is for all their batteries. They don't spell it out in individual user manuals. You can find it on their web site if you look.

I answered the OPs question. I have finished with this thread now.

Cheers All.