bjr981s
 Second Officer
Flight distance : 139895 ft
Australia
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Because after charging a pack the voltage drops. On a LiPo it is normal for a pack to drop to 4.18V per cell after the charge. This happen as the Charge voltage can not exceed the full charge voltage of the pack by very much without damaging the pack. It is extremely rare for a LiPo to hold 4.2V after a couple of minutes after charging as it cools down. In most cases reading 4.2V would mean the voltage meter does not have enough ohms per volt to be accurate enough. Unless you measured it with a calibrated Fluke Multimeter the reading is likely not accurate. Using different LiPo checkers I find a .2 volt variance in most of them. The most accurate is the Futaba BR-3000 checker but its quite expensive.
The best way to determine the characteristics of the Battery is to get the full specification from the vendor. The Nominal Voltage figure will define battery chemistry. The C rating and MAH rating can be somewhat misleading. I formally test batteries on calibrated loads to see how well the C rating and mah rating compare to the spec. I have found very few that comply.
The Definition of the C rating is not a formal stanford so many "adjust" it for marketing. Some advise the C rating as it is for a fully charged battery. Ideally it should be at the nominal voltage.
The C rating is often quoted as a current draw before damage to the battery occurs. This is not correct.
Discharging a LiPo or LiHV battery does damage to the battery. The damage is relative to the current draw and the depth of discharge. Damage also occurs at the sate of charge of the battery. Above and below the nominal voltage. Hence should be kept at storage voltage when not in use.
The C rating is meant to be the current draw where the battery does not brownout. This is a current where the battery can not sustain its voltage at that current draw. (this also accelerates the damage)
It's fairly obvious the the "C" rating of a flat battery is 0. its a relatively linear scale from full charge to depleted.
Remember that the voltage drops as the battery discharges. So the "c" rating drops at the same time.
Another factor is what is the current draw that will allow the full mah rating of the battery to be achieved. Batteries that I have tested do not come anywhere near the rating when approaching "C" current draws. The worst I have tested is Hobbyking Turnigy tx, receiver batteries. Claimed to be 10 to 20 C and in reality less that .5 C. Not a big deal for an RX or TX battery.
DJI actually provide a valid specification that is useful in determining the capability of the battery.
Its the Watt hours max with an associated current draw. In the case for the FPV Drone battery its 44.4 Watt Hours at .5C so any current draw above .5C will prevent you from getting the full capability from the battery. That is 2000mah x 0.5 so 1 Amp divided across 4 motors and the electronics. So is 250ma per motor max assuming 0 for the main electronics.
Hence why the specification is only 100 recycles, as the batteries are under serious loads. Particularly in Manual and Sports modes. And the reduced flight times being experienced by pilots.
Hope this is of value.
Cheers
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