My first flight with my new M3 and I noticed the iso is locked at 400(or the option to select 800) when using Dlog in Pro mode. I hope DJI changes this ASAP!!!!! thoughts anyone???

I wonder if thats one of the reasons they include ND filters.

DAFlys Posted at 11-11 01:45
I wonder if thats one of the reasons they include ND filters.

Strange, as ISO should go from 100 up to 800 at least...
I have seen one raw footage with  LOG and looked horribly as is more noise than Air2S ISO 1600...
Maybe is blocked until they fix the problem...

FB: GeoDrone4K Posted at 11-11 01:48
Strange, as ISO should go from 100 up to 800 at least...
I have seen one raw footage with  LOG and looked horribly as is more noise than Air2S ISO 1600...
Maybe is blocked until they fix the problem...

Theres going to be a lot riding on that January firmware update.

This was sent to me a few years ago and will help explain why. This was also a feature of Phantom 4 pro and inspire 2.

To explain the native ISO of DLOG, let's start with exposure.

1. Exposure

In the imaging engineering point of view, a good exposure is to make the imaging of a 18% gray in the YCbCr domain to be  0.43~0.5 of the white level. So it's very important that the good exposure is measured after gamma, not linear.

2. Gamma

The cameras for photography traditionally use a standard gamma (e.g., Rec709) to compress the pixel to 8bit for digitalizing. So the good exposure means the linear image after a Rec709 gamma, 18% gray will be exposed to 110~128 if the white level is 255. However, as the sensor technology is evolving fast, the dynamic range of a morden sensor is far ahead of standadizing Rec709.

DR=20log10(FWC/Noise), FWC means the maximum capacity of the electrons, and noise means the noise level of dark.

A typical SONY APS-C sensor will have 84dB+ (14 fstops+) dynamic range. The goal of a gamma and exposure is to preserve as large information of the scene as possible, regarding both highlight and darkside. Whether to preserve the highlight or darkside is up to the photographer's tone. Things over-expsoured is forever gone and darkside with noise has chance to recover by strong image processing algorithms. Therefore, the camera vendors make a good balance between the highlight and darkside, by choosing a proper gamma curve, according to their capability of chip and characteristics of sensor.

3. LOG gamma

The cinematography is different from the photography. Cinema camera shoots RAW with 12/14/16 bits, and the footage is generated mostly by post processing software, which is far more powerful than the camera. So given the dynamic range, the highlight preserving is the first priority. Simply speaking, the camera will shoot a under-exposed image and store all the effective bits of the darkside thanks to the RAW, and recover the dark by strong post processing.

Here is a post to introduce the comparison between LOG gamma and standard gamma.
https://prolost.com/blog/2005/5/15/log-is-the-new-lin.html

If the LOG gamma is regarded as a kind of digital gain, the cinema camera tends to use the digital gain first. It breaks the rule of analog gain first. Actually the darkside will have dozens of dB amplified when using LOG gamma. Thanks to the strong signal processing algorithms in the post processing software, the darkside is still useable.

4. Native ISO

Usually, when applying the analog gain 1x and LOG gamma, we say the equivlent ISO is called native ISO.

After applying the DLOG which has been well tuned to match 12.8 fstops, the 18% gray is 2.3 fstops above the normal gamma. Do you remember the exposure is mostly responsible for the 18% gray? Therefore, the exposure should be reduced 2.3ev in order to match the aperture/shutter of other cameras. In our case,

native ISO = Baseline ISO + 2.3ev = ISO500.

That means use the same aperture/shutter/iso, we will make the brightness of 18% gray be aligned with any cameras, no matter for photo or for cinema.

5. More-over

The question is if we can enable 2x/4x/... analog gain? I have to say it's depending on the FPN （fixed pattern noise） of the sensor. Some vendors lock the ISO of LOG while others provide limited but selectable ISOs.

hallmark007 Posted at 11-11 03:09
This was sent to me a few years ago and will help explain why. This was also a feature of Phantom 4 pro and inspire 2.

To explain the native ISO of DLOG, let's start with exposure.

Good info for cameras.
Still, there is a difference in S-LOG, D-LOG and A-LOG, also in HLG hybrid, the only part that applies is about exposure, that you need to use not the left histogram for blacks but right part for overexposure and all settings should be made related to it...and this is because all LOGs have the same principle: Boost the blacks in order to recover it, so an exposure to left will give you wrong exposure.

Also I highly doubt that this 4/3 sensor have the ISO 400 as default... I believe they will unlock it in next FW.

FB: GeoDrone4K Posted at 11-11 06:19
Good info for cameras.
Still, there is a difference in S-LOG, D-LOG and A-LOG, also in HLG hybrid, the only part that applies is about exposure, that you need to use not the left histogram for blacks but right part for overexposure and all settings should be made related to it...and this is because all LOGs have the same principle: Boost the blacks in order to recover it, so an exposure to left will give you wrong exposure.

It will have as default, just as thr 4/3 camera on the inspire does. You need to read this to understand why. This is also the same with Phantom 4 pro. Both the inspire and P4 Pro have been in use for almost 5 years. Owning and using the P4Pro, there is almost no noise caused by this in reasonable light there are no problems in highlights or shadows , it is by far djis best 1 inch sensor video and stills option and the inspire speaks for itself. I don’t expect this to change there is nothing written anywhere that this will change and this will not hinder this camera in any way.

I noticed same thing.  In Dlog I can only have 400 or 800 or auto ISO.  Is this going to change or is this fixed permanently this way for a reason?

What a great subject and learning what and why it is at iso 400/800....I am waiting for some ND filters so I can start shooting in DLOG. I got used to it with the Air 2s and gained some confidence with colour grading.

hallmark007 Posted at 11-11 03:09
This was sent to me a few years ago and will help explain why. This was also a feature of Phantom 4 pro and inspire 2.

To explain the native ISO of DLOG, let's start with exposure.

I always enjoy you going into details like this !!

Resurrecting this thread. Lots of good information in it. Do we have any confirmation of the native ISO of the M43 sensor? 400 and/or 800 native ISO would not be unrealistic as that has been common in other recent sensors. It would also explain the ND 128-512 included with the Cine. A dynamic range chart at different ISOs with middle gray would be so helpful and allow us to make better use of the NDs.

I am a still photographer just starting video on my Mavic 3.  Unfortunately, even after all updates,  I can only see iso of 400 or 800.  This can’t be right, I just watched a current YouTube post where iso can be adjusted when using slog.  Help!!

bobarcand1-sp Posted at 8-31 15:27
I am a still photographer just starting video on my Mavic 3.  Unfortunately, even after all updates,  I can only see iso of 400 or 800.  This can’t be right, I just watched a current YouTube post where iso can be adjusted when using slog.  Help!!

Yeah....unfortunately
Autel was smarter than DJI at this point...they implemented LOG and HDR with full manual controls...the result was crazy, Evo II Pro being the best camera with biggest DR on market at drones, as is combining LOG and HDR with ISO starting from 100 to 6400...Practically amount of Stops is incredible...something that M3 will never have, as DJI is known for good drones but shltty camera implementation.

Im convinced its glitcy software. I was adjusting settings just moments ago because my ability to film in apple prores 422hq disappeared and I only have the option for H.264 and H.265. Upon noticing things were different, I started looking around and noticed I had the ability to adjust ISO settings anywhere from 100 to 800 when I had previously only been able to do 400/800 like everyone else. I then started changing other settings and I now can not change ISO and its back to the options of 400/800. This has happened before where I have noticed apple prores422hq has disappeared but upon noticing the ISO settings become available and the disappear too that is when I found this thread. They clearly have to release quite a few updates for the software because ActiveTrack has been available and disappeared as well

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LwfRzccwhlk here is a link to a guy who was able to adjust the ISO on the Mavic 3. So that says that the software has either been A. Glitching on all of us or B. DJI has been removing features through updates and re releasing them

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9h-gsGTXhbk and yet another link to someone else who can adjust ISO from 100 to over 6K

Oroku Saki Posted at 9-13 22:04
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LwfRzccwhlk here is a link to a guy who was able to adjust the ISO on the Mavic 3. So that says that the software has either been A. Glitching on all of us or B. DJI has been removing features through updates and re releasing them

Almost all cameras use higher ISO in log its quite normal and will not affect finished edit. To short shutter speeds will likely cause more noise than higher ISO.

Oroku Saki Posted at 9-13 22:07
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9h-gsGTXhbk and yet another link to someone else who can adjust ISO from 100 to over 6K

I think you are just confusing yourself. the ISO 400/800 limitation is ONLY when shooting DLOG in video mode. In the 2 videos you shared, they are able to exceed this limitation at parts of the video because they are not in DLOG.

@hallmark: Slow shutter speeds do not cause image noise- only blurry photo's. ISO controls light sensitivity of the image sensor, and at high sensitivities produces noise.

Regarding the question at hand, I really dont understand why DJI limits ISO in DLOG. I could understand some arguments for limiting it on the top end, but cant understand why they limit it on the bottom end from ISO 100-400.

Tornado12 Posted at 9-14 04:53
I think you are just confusing yourself. the ISO 400/800 limitation is ONLY when shooting DLOG in video mode. In the 2 videos you shared, they are able to exceed this limitation at parts of the video because they are not in DLOG.

@hallmark: Slow shutter speeds do not cause image noise- only blurry photo's. ISO controls light sensitivity of the image sensor, and at high sensitivities produces noise.

I think you should really check that out again. Without having to put everyone through the drudge and how this works . Take a look at this video, there are many more similar you can view on You tube etc. your understanding of ISO are wrong. And all your doing is giving out wrong information. You should learn about signal to noise ratio, larger apeture slower shutter speeds where possible will always insure lower noise, less light more noise more light less noise ISO gives you more light. ISO is not the cause of noise in video or photo. My advice about Short shutter speeds was correct.

hallmark007 Posted at 9-14 08:55
I think you should really check that out again. Without having to put everyone through the drudge and how this works . Take a look at this video, there are many more similar you can view on You tube etc. your understanding of ISO are wrong. And all your doing is giving out wrong information. You should learn about signal to noise ratio, larger apeture slower shutter speeds where possible will always insure lower noise, less light more noise more light less noise ISO gives you more light. ISO is not the cause of noise in video or photo. My advice about Short shutter speeds was correct.

https://youtu.be/2jkf31w7fwU

I was a professional photographer for many years hallmark. I know all of the above very well. Ive actually already seen the video you linked ( saw it like 2 years ago) as Tony Northup is one of many youtube channels I have followed for years. I have read numerous books on photography, ran a photography website community where I held photography workshops and discussions with hundreds of other photographers around the world. I am very well read and educated in the area of photography, and have a lot of experience in the field.

I am not going to get into an argument of semantics with you, as I know you would go on and on and on for days with it. I know what causes noise very well. What tony northup states in the video is very true, and you need to fully understand the topic to realize why "High ISO = noise" is always a rule of thumb in photography, and why tony Northup's video does NOT actually contradict me at all. He is simply trying to get the viewer to look at noise from a different perspective, and yes it is interesting, but nothing he shared in this video is new knowledge. It all comes down to exposure in the end. The fact is that in almost every situation where you are forced to increase ISO to actually take a decent photograph, you are also going to be introducing noise. This is why testing Noise levels at High ISO ranges is a key benchmark for the quality of a camera's sensor.

Tornado12 Posted at 9-14 12:27
I was a professional photographer for many years hallmark. I know all of the above very well. Ive actually already seen the video you linked ( saw it like 2 years ago) as Tony Northup is one of many youtube channels I have followed for years. I have read numerous books on photography, ran a photography website community where I held photography workshops and discussions with hundreds of other photographers around the world. I am very well read and educated in the area of photography, and have a lot of experience in the field.

I am not going to get into an argument of semantics with you, as I know you would go on and on and on for days with it. I know what causes noise very well. What tony northup states in the video is very true, and you need to fully understand the topic to realize why "High ISO = noise" is always a rule of thumb in photography, and why tony Northup's video does NOT actually contradict me at all. He is simply trying to get the viewer to look at noise from a different perspective, and yes it is interesting, but nothing he shared in this video is new knowledge. It all comes down to exposure in the end. The fact is that in almost every situation where you are forced to increase ISO to actually take a decent photograph, you are also going to be introducing noise. This is why testing Noise levels at High ISO ranges is a key benchmark for the quality of a camera's sensor.

You write like you still don’t understand, My comment to the poster was 100% correct and advice given was to reduce noise. And thats exactly what it does. So it has nothing to do with semantics but facts on what causes noise. You say you’re a professional. Then in photography school you would have learnt or at least been taught what causes noise in photos and how to avoid it. And using only ISO to reduce or increase noise is not what its for. ISO gives you more light when increased and less light when decreased thats what ISO is for and you were completely wrong when you tried to quote what I said. I never said Slow shutter speeds cause noise, in fact I said the opposite, so maybe read what I wrote before you try quoting me. I actually said Short Shutter speed and as a professional photographer you should know that short shutter speeds are not slow shutter they’re fast shutter speeds. Slowing shutter speed to properly expose your photo will always decrease noise, rather than increasing ISO as a light source and any professional photographer will know this. Again my point is that the advice I gave was correct 100%. Using a short shutter speed instead of increasing ISO “so blocking the light “ will cause more noise in photos . Ive posted another video that completely backs up what I’ve been saying.
But its likely you will put it down to semantics and fail to answer the question as you did in my last two posts.

There are so many videos that completely back up advice I gave to the OP. You really should check them out.

hallmark007 Posted at 9-14 14:21
You write like you still don’t understand, My comment to the poster was 100% correct and advice given was to reduce noise. And thats exactly what it does. So it has nothing to do with semantics but facts on what causes noise. You say you’re a professional. Then in photography school you would have learnt or at least been taught what causes noise in photos and how to avoid it. And using only ISO to reduce or increase noise is not what its for. ISO gives you more light when increased and less light when decreased thats what ISO is for and you were completely wrong when you tried to quote what I said. I never said Slow shutter speeds cause noise, in fact I said the opposite, so maybe read what I wrote before you try quoting me. I actually said Short Shutter speed and as a professional photographer you should know that short shutter speeds are not slow shutter they’re fast shutter speeds. Slowing shutter speed to properly expose your photo will always decrease noise, rather than increasing ISO as a light source and any professional photographer will know this. Again my point is that the advice I gave was correct 100%. Using a short shutter speed instead of increasing ISO “so blocking the light “ will cause more noise in photos . Ive posted another video that completely backs up what I’ve been saying.
But its likely you will put it down to semantics and fail to answer the question as you did in my last two posts.

The problem here hallmark is I really don't think you understand the full context of what these video's are even saying, and that isn't a knock against you, because anyone who doesn't have an intimate understanding of the exposure triangle and have experience utilizing it in real world photo shoots with a professional camera likely wouldn't fully understand what is being said. I could fully explain it, but It would turn into an essay and I just don't have interest in typing an essay.

I will just say this: There is a reason why Noise has always been closely tied to ISO more so than aperture and shutter speed, and it goes to real world use cases. Noise is simply the result of pushing a camera sensor to shoot a properly exposed and in-focus image in low light environments. In excellent shooting conditions ( great light, full daylight, etc) noise is generally a non issue. Low light, and night time photography is where noise becomes an issue. You cant adjust shutter in low light in 9 out of 10 use cases. Aperture is often also not an option because it can ruin the depth of field you may be going for. ISO is the option photographers go to 9 times out of 10 to control for proper exposure in challenging environments, and is thus why ISO has always been linked more to noise than both shutter and aperture. In tony northups example of shutter causing noise, notice he forces the noise in post by jacking the exposure of a very dark image. The problem is that no photographer is actually shooting photographs that way - you have to get exposure right in the camera, and that means you are forced to push ISO in most of these scenarios. Slowing shutter down to 1/4 sec for example is simply not possible except under very specific shooting situations ( very still subject and tripod mounted). No photographer is ever going to shoot a properly exposed, tack sharp photograph, and then have to deal with noise because of a shutter speed setting. Never. However, you WILL quite often be dealing with noise in properly exposed and tack sharp photographs due to ISO settings. You simply have no professional experience in photography, and so I think you really just don't understand this.

Tornado12 Posted at 9-15 09:00
The problem here hallmark is I really don't think you understand the full context of what these video's are even saying, and that isn't a knock against you, because anyone who doesn't have an intimate understanding of the exposure triangle and have experience utilizing it in real world photo shoots with a professional camera likely wouldn't fully understand what is being said. I could fully explain it, but It would turn into an essay and I just don't have interest in typing an essay.

I will just say this: There is a reason why Noise has always been closely tied to ISO more so than aperture and shutter speed, and it goes to real world use cases. Noise is simply the result of pushing a camera sensor to shoot a properly exposed and in-focus image in low light environments. In excellent shooting conditions ( great light, full daylight, etc) noise is generally a non issue. Low light, and night time photography is where noise becomes an issue. You cant adjust shutter in low light in 9 out of 10 use cases. Aperture is often also not an option because it can ruin the depth of field you may be going for. ISO is the option photographers go to 9 times out of 10 to control for proper exposure in challenging environments, and is thus why ISO has always been linked more to noise than both shutter and aperture. In tony northups example of shutter causing noise, notice he forces the noise in post by jacking the exposure of a very dark image. The problem is that no photographer is actually shooting photographs that way - you have to get exposure right in the camera, and that means you are forced to push ISO in most of these scenarios. Slowing shutter down to 1/4 sec for example is simply not possible except under very specific shooting situations ( very still subject and tripod mounted). No photographer is ever going to shoot a properly exposed, tack sharp photograph, and then have to deal with noise because of a shutter speed setting. Never. However, you WILL quite often be dealing with noise in properly exposed and tack sharp photographs due to ISO settings. You simply have no professional experience in photography, and so I think you really just don't understand this.

From drones to APSC to Medium Format, I shoot all of these on a daily basis. I know my way around Cameras and have been thought photography by professional teaching photographers. Not a you tube wannabe.


“You cant adjust shutter in low light in 9 out of 10 use cases.”

Its these ridiculous statements that show me you are full of it. Thats about as ridiculous as I have ever seen mentioned here.

“Aperture is often also not an option because it can ruin the depth of field you may be going for.”

Aperture is always an option again more complete bunkem.

In tony northups example of shutter causing noise, notice he forces the noise in post by jacking the exposure of a very dark image. The problem is that no photographer is actually shooting photographs that way - you have to get exposure right in the camera,

You failed to understand anything from the Northups video.
It was so simple.
“If a photo needed to be 5 stops under exposed to correctly expose it . By under exposing the 5 stops needed it will show more noise than increasing ISO by 5 stops of light. Thus showing that light and lack of it is where you get the greatest amount of shot noise.

But again you need to go back to your post where you accused me of giving out bad information and realise. 1/ you read it completely arse ways about face 2/ to top that off got it completely wrong.

And lastly it is your understanding and total hogwash you tube explanations that show you know very little particularly in the face of so much proof . You come across as a complete narcissist who actually believes his own drivel.

Just look at a PROPERLY exposed 100 ISO FILM picture, then  PROPERLY exposed 1200 ISO picture of the same scene and lighting. The 1200 will have more noise.

Mobilehomer Posted at 9-15 10:30
Just look at a PROPERLY exposed 100 ISO FILM picture, then  PROPERLY exposed 1200 ISO picture of the same scene and lighting. The 1200 will have more noise.

You cannot expose two photos in the same light with the same camera settings except one will be ISO 100 and one ISO 1200 and expect them to be exposed correctly, noise would be the least of your worries.

But a photo that could be taken at ISO 100 underexposed by 5 stops and a photo shot with +5 stops of ISO “1200” you will find the one with 100 ISO will have more noise. Noise comes from low and bad light. Trying to shoot your Air2s in very low light at 100 ISO will give you more noise than cranking up the ISO to 1200.

hallmark007 Posted at 9-15 10:45
You cannot expose two photos in the same light with the same camera settings except one will be ISO 100 and one ISO 1200 and expect them to be exposed correctly, noise would be the least of your worries.

But a photo that could be taken at ISO 100 underexposed by 5 stops and a photo shot with +5 stops of ISO “1200” you will find the one with 100 ISO will have more noise. Noise comes from low and bad light. Trying to shoot your Air2s in very low light at 100 ISO will give you more noise than cranking up the ISO to 1200.

Didn't comprehend the word "PROPERLY" now did you? Higher ISO wil ALWAYS have more noise/grain than lower ISO. Noise/grain comes from a higher sensitivity, not light availability.

Mobilehomer Posted at 9-15 10:48
Didn't comprehend the word "PROPERLY" now did you? Higher ISO wil ALWAYS have more noise/grain than lower ISO. Noise/grain comes from a higher sensitivity, not light availability.

Go watch any of the videos above. So you were comparing photos that are not properly exposed that makes no sense at all.
If you shoot a photo in low light with your drone at under exposed at 100 ISO or correctly exposed at ISO 1200 “Why will the exposure shot at ISO 100 show more noise than the one shot at ISO 1200 is ISO is the cause of noise.

Just another video that shows how it actually works .

hallmark007 Posted at 9-15 11:18
Go watch any of the videos above. So you were comparing photos that are not properly exposed that makes no sense at all.
If you shoot a photo in low light with your drone at under exposed at 100 ISO or correctly exposed at ISO 1200 “Why will the exposure shot at ISO 100 show more noise than the one shot at ISO 1200 is ISO is the cause of noise.

Again, your reading comprehension is ZERO!!! I don't need to watch videos. I have exposed hundreds of rolls of film. I have seen it for myself. You argue for argument's sake.

Mobilehomer Posted at 9-15 11:21
Again, your reading comprehension is ZERO!!! I don't need to watch videos. I have exposed hundreds of rolls of film. I have seen it for myself. You argue for argument's sake.

As usual when you cannot comprehend you show ignorance. You shouldn’t jump in if you have no idea or can offer nothing except bluster and ignorance . Come back with an explanation when you actually figure out what you’re spouting about.

hallmark007 Posted at 9-15 11:30
As usual when you cannot comprehend you show ignorance. You shouldn’t jump in if you have no idea or can offer nothing except bluster and ignorance . Come back with an explanation when you actually figure out what you’re spouting about.

READ my opening statement again, or get someone to read it to you. You obviously have a learning disability.

Mobilehomer Posted at 9-15 11:45
READ my opening statement again, or get someone to read it to you. You obviously have a learning disability.

Your opening makes no sense, but you seem to spend most of your time personally insulting people.

If it was film actual film you were talking about. You would almost never take the same scene with a roll of ASA “ISO “ 100 and ASA “ISO” 1200. If this was what you’re talking about then your lack of understanding of what you use film for is pretty low.

You keep butting in with nonsense thats not in dispute here. Every dog in the street knows if you crank up ISO you get noise and this discussion was not about that, and Ill say it once more for you Bad light causes noise not ISO.

Here is a PROFFESSIONAL photography site that refutes your NONSENSE!! Read the SIde Effects of ISO section carefully.
https://expertphotography.com/understand-iso-4-simple-steps/

Mobilehomer Posted at 9-15 12:01
Here is a PROFFESSIONAL photography site that refutes your NONSENSE!! Read the SIde Effects of ISO section carefully.
https://expertphotography.com/understand-iso-4-simple-steps/

Again your ignorance knows no bounds. You insult others about reading. Now you go back and read, you’ll see just before first picture quote “ The ideal exposure is shown in the fourth photo which was taken at ISO 800. now maybe you’ll explain why ISO 800 was chosen as better than the one shot at ISO 100, when you get this you’ll understand a bit more about noise and signal to noise ratio.

Do you not understand the word PROPERLY? Your stoopidity knows no bounds. The example was merely to show the difference in ISO with the same aperture and exposure settings.

Digital ISO is an attempt to emulate Film ISO for convenience of photographer.
Increasing ISO on Digital camera does not make camera's sensor more sensitive to light.  
Increase ISO and sensor still collects same amount of photons.
Digital camera's ISO changes the amplification applied to camera's sensor or sensors output.
Increasing ISO starts to add noise, because it increase amplification of sensor of which some amount of output is noise.
Arguments abound as to what level of digital ISO does noise become noticeable.   
Noticeable level can depend on personal choice, camera brand and model, subject mater, and final editing,

Mobilehomer Posted at 9-15 12:31
Do you not understand the word PROPERLY? Your stoopidity knows no bounds. The example was merely to show the difference in ISO with the same aperture and exposure settings.

Yes but that has no relevance to what was being discussed but your so blind trying to get across what you found on google you still are clueless as to whats being discussed.. Just look at your avatar its a real sign you haven’t a clue about noise on a camera. That looks like it was a screenshot from a video shot at 100 ISO in low light and thats the reason its so noisy.

difference in ISO with the same aperture and exposure settings."  What does that even mean "and exposure settings" do you mean shutter speed because thats the only part of the exposure settings thats left. One thing is for sure you haven't a clue what you're talking about....



Might be advisable to lay off the sauce before commenting....

Mobilehomer Posted at 9-15 10:30
Just look at a PROPERLY exposed 100 ISO FILM picture, then  PROPERLY exposed 1200 ISO picture of the same scene and lighting. The 1200 will have more noise.

Exactly. You summarized the meat of the issue in just one sentence. I'm glad that at least one person here gets it.

Tornado12 Posted at 9-16 12:24
Exactly. You summarized the meat of the issue in just one sentence. I'm glad that at least one person here gets it.

Once again without fail . One things for sure you were never a photographer.

FB: GeoDrone4K Posted at 2021-11-11 06:19
Good info for cameras.
Still, there is a difference in S-LOG, D-LOG and A-LOG, also in HLG hybrid, the only part that applies is about exposure, that you need to use not the left histogram for blacks but right part for overexposure and all settings should be made related to it...and this is because all LOGs have the same principle: Boost the blacks in order to recover it, so an exposure to left will give you wrong exposure.

Hey Bud,

        I stumbled upon this post and just wanted to add my observations.  While having been working with my Mavic 3 many months now, imho you can easily shoot to the left of histogram, if you don't want to overexpose and you won't lose your blacks this way. D-Log and HLG on this drone are very polished now. I usually shoot to the middle , but can easily shoot to the left and recover blacks, you won't be losing details in black, dark or shadow this way. I haven't tried shooting at night, but evenings and golden / blue hour are fine even if shot to the left of the histogram. Not sure what your experience has been.

Thanks, Mike.

Mzp Posted at 9-19 11:38
Hey Bud,

        I stumbled upon this post and just wanted to add my observations.  While having been working with my Mavic 3 many months now, imho you can easily shoot to the left of histogram, if you don't want to overexpose and you won't lose your blacks this way. D-Log and HLG on this drone are very polished now. I usually shoot to the middle , but can easily shoot to the left and recover blacks, you won't be losing details in black, dark or shadow this way. I haven't tried shooting at night, but evenings and golden / blue hour are fine even if shot to the left of the histogram. Not sure what your experience has been.

Hi Mike,

Unfortunately there is far from being polished for low light...
That was what this sensor was trying to be best, as in full light you will not notice any difference versus A2S...(maybe A2s is better ).
On low light they have screwed things a lot...maybe IF Mavic 3 were my 1st drone, I would not figure it out....but Mavic 3 is my...I do not even know, probably my 25th drone...And after you get video from HDR at a 3 year old drone but you realize that Mavic 3 is:
- not capable of HDR/will never be;
- Lens is cutting the sensor on edges so you do not get a real size but cut in order to not see edges
;
- Sensor limited even in 10bit at shades;
- Iso 400 is crazy noisy, so an ISO higher (boost of sensitivity from DAC) is probably not recoverable;
- Quality is questionable even in pictures at ISO 100 as a lot of magenta spots is on grey areas.
...is just not right...