DJI Mavic 3 camera settings cheat sheet!
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Has anyone made one yet? Would love to shoot more in D-log & learn to colour correct / grade but least short of tips, settings , principles when on location.

Any help appreciated
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The camera settings cheat sheet is as follows:

Learn the exposure triangle; ISO, Aperture, Shutter Speed - and how this affects your image.
Expose for the shot you want to capture, not what the camera says is correctly exposed.
Film with your shutter speed at double your frame rate (and use ND filter to achieve this).
Don't film above ~f8 unless you want to degrade your image
Take photos in RAW
Film in D-LOG
Keep the ISO as low as possible and prioritise the shutter/aperture over ISO (see triangle above)

Sadly, you will never be instantly good at colour grading, it takes time, practice and experience, and there is no single answer to grading all clips. Don't fall for LUTS being the answer to your grading, they are a waste of money.

If you need a book to read about it all buy this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Read-Th ... raphs/dp/1780673353 - this book covers the basics of photography.
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CloudVisual Posted at 1-4 08:28
The camera settings cheat sheet is as follows:

Learn the exposure triangle; ISO, Aperture, Shutter Speed - and how this affects your image.

Hi CloudVisual, over the break I spent a lot of time delving into online courses on photography (taking good pictures) and post processing.  One week does not make an expert (not even close), but I'm confused by one thing you say, and it could be a terminology issue.

You say "Keep the ISO as low as possible, and prioritize the shutter/aperture over ISO".  I've been able to keep my ISO at 100, and I've been able to mix the shutter and aperture settings to allow me to keep the ISO at 100.  I interpret that to mean that I'm prioritizing ISO over shutter and aperture.  If I have the terminology correct, I'm curious why you recommend shutter/aperture over ISO.  I'm not disagreeing, what I am doing is "not understanding".

So far my latest experiments have been getting a sun starburst effect with the lowest aperture setting on the M3 (highest number), the consequence for which is a large depth of field (but I'm ok with that).  I can keep the ISO at 100 (to reduce noise), and then basically pick the right shutter to control the exposure.  I suppose that means I've prioritized ISO AND aperture over shutter speed.

What are the benefits of prioritizing shutter and aperture over ISO, and letting ISO go up if necessary?  I would think if I had a specific depth of field I wanted that would be how I would do it, but I've struggled with actually getting an effective depth of field while in flight.  Or I could get a bit of motion blur in the picture if that was what I was after.  Or if I was doing a long exposure.  But as a general rule of thumb, I'm clueless as to what the "general" benefits would be.
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Hello there. Good day and thank you for reaching out. I hope that our fellow DJI co pilots who owns the DJI Mavic 3 can give out what camera setting they are using the best recommendation with regards to this matter. Thank you and have a nice day.
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Charles Adams Posted at 1-4 14:14
Hi CloudVisual, over the break I spent a lot of time delving into online courses on photography (taking good pictures) and post processing.  One week does not make an expert (not even close), but I'm confused by one thing you say, and it could be a terminology issue.

You say "Keep the ISO as low as possible, and prioritize the shutter/aperture over ISO".  I've been able to keep my ISO at 100, and I've been able to mix the shutter and aperture settings to allow me to keep the ISO at 100.  I interpret that to mean that I'm prioritizing ISO over shutter and aperture.  If I have the terminology correct, I'm curious why you recommend shutter/aperture over ISO.  I'm not disagreeing, what I am doing is "not understanding".

I know you're asking CloudVisual, but I thought I'd pitch in:

ISO - controls sensor sensitivity. Higher ISO = more noise, hence the idea is to keep it as low as you can.

Aperture - controls the depth of field and "bokeh". Also, for many real-life cameras, it controls sharpness. Pretty much all cameras have so-called "sweet spot" (usually around f/4..f/5.6) where the sharpness is optimal. Since drones are typically wide-angle by default, you pretty much will never get the blurred background, so you just want to decide about DoF.

Shutter: controls action. Again, for drones, it's not the same as for ground photography since everything is so far away that it really does not matter much.
For video, however, it becomes a very important aspect, if you're shooting something like racing cars up close.

So basically:
Photo: set your aperture to your sweet spot or desired depth of field, then adjust the shutter, trying to keep ISO as low as possible, while "exposing to the right"
Exceptions: long exposure, when shutter becomes a priority. But in that case, you typically add filters.

Video: for high-altitude overviews really auto is fine. For low-altitude-action. shutter speed is your primary priority, and then you work with filters, aperture, and ISO, again trying to keep ISO as low as possible as long as other aspects are to your liking.
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Charles Adams Posted at 1-4 14:14
Hi CloudVisual, over the break I spent a lot of time delving into online courses on photography (taking good pictures) and post processing.  One week does not make an expert (not even close), but I'm confused by one thing you say, and it could be a terminology issue.

You say "Keep the ISO as low as possible, and prioritize the shutter/aperture over ISO".  I've been able to keep my ISO at 100, and I've been able to mix the shutter and aperture settings to allow me to keep the ISO at 100.  I interpret that to mean that I'm prioritizing ISO over shutter and aperture.  If I have the terminology correct, I'm curious why you recommend shutter/aperture over ISO.  I'm not disagreeing, what I am doing is "not understanding".

I'm curious why you recommend shutter/aperture over ISO.  I'm not disagreeing, what I am doing is "not understanding".
The simple version is that increasing ISO increases grain.
Keep it at ISO 100 and you minimise grain.
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Charles Adams Posted at 1-4 14:14
Hi CloudVisual, over the break I spent a lot of time delving into online courses on photography (taking good pictures) and post processing.  One week does not make an expert (not even close), but I'm confused by one thing you say, and it could be a terminology issue.

You say "Keep the ISO as low as possible, and prioritize the shutter/aperture over ISO".  I've been able to keep my ISO at 100, and I've been able to mix the shutter and aperture settings to allow me to keep the ISO at 100.  I interpret that to mean that I'm prioritizing ISO over shutter and aperture.  If I have the terminology correct, I'm curious why you recommend shutter/aperture over ISO.  I'm not disagreeing, what I am doing is "not understanding".

with the lowest aperture setting on the M3 (highest number), the consequence for which is a large depth of field (but I'm ok with that).
Your drone's camera has tons of depth of field at all aperture settings.
You won't notice any difference (unless your subject is within a metre or two of the camera (which is very rare shooting with a drone).
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DarthSLR Posted at 1-4 20:52
I know you're asking CloudVisual, but I thought I'd pitch in:

ISO - controls sensor sensitivity. Higher ISO = more noise, hence the idea is to keep it as low as you can.

Pretty much all cameras have so-called "sweet spot" (usually around f/4..f/5.6) where the sharpness is optimal.
The M3 camera shows very little difference in sharpness at any aperture - the "sweet spot" is everywhere.


Since drones are typically wide-angle by default, you pretty much will never get the blurred background, so you just want to decide about DoF.
There's nothing to decide about DoF as the lens has tons of DoF at any aperture.



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Labroides Posted at 1-4 22:19
Pretty much all cameras have so-called "sweet spot" (usually around f/4..f/5.6) where the sharpness is optimal.
The M3 camera shows very little difference in sharpness at any aperture - the "sweet spot" is everywhere.

You are correct, M3 has a wide range of usable apertures.
it is also true that for most aerial applications the DOF will be enough even at f2.8, since, say everything beyond 50ft would fall into the hyperfocal range (at least on the main lens)
That said, some people do use drones for near-proximity shooting, so for those edge cases, the theory still applies.
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DarthSLR Posted at 1-4 23:02
You are correct, M3 has a wide range of usable apertures.
it is also true that for most aerial applications the DOF will be enough even at f2.8, since, say everything beyond 50ft would fall into the hyperfocal range (at least on the main lens)
That said, some people do use drones for near-proximity shooting, so for those edge cases, the theory still applies.

it is also true that for most aerial applications the DOF will be enough even at f2.8, since, say everything beyond 50ft would fall into the hyperfocal range
That would be 10 ft or even less.
Depth of field is always huge, at any aperture

(at least on the main lens)

Serious photographers  aren't going to bother with the toy tele lens with the tiny sensor..

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Labroides Posted at 1-4 22:13
I'm curious why you recommend shutter/aperture over ISO.  I'm not disagreeing, what I am doing is "not understanding".
The simple version is that increasing ISO increases grain.
Keep it at ISO 100 and you minimise grain.

Hi Labroides (and others), that much I undertsand (noise/grain with higher ISOs).  And if I have the terminology correct, I am choosing to prioritize the ISO by keeping it and 100 and adjusting the other two values to get the desired exposure.  What I don't understand is the generic benefits for the generic advice of prioritizing aperture and shutter over ISO (the advice given).  Because in those circumstances you are allowing the ISO to adjust to get the desired exposure.

So the fact that I prioritize ISO means I'm minimizing the noise and grain, and that's my habit right now.  But if I were to change my behavior, and if I were to prioritize the aperture and shutter, what is it I gain?  I'd be giving up control of the noise for...  depth of field?  Motion blur?  That's the part I don't understand with the given advice.  I'm doing the opposite of what was suggested, and I know what I'm gaining, but I don't know what I'm losing.
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Labroides Posted at 1-4 22:16
with the lowest aperture setting on the M3 (highest number), the consequence for which is a large depth of field (but I'm ok with that).
Your drone's camera has tons of depth of field at all aperture settings.
You won't notice any difference (unless your subject is within a metre or two of the camera (which is very rare shooting with a drone).

That's what I'm finding in my testing.  That really the only situation where controlling the depth of field has any value is if I'm "droning" an already close in subject.  Otherwise the depth of field is pretty enormous.

What I was hoping to figure out is how to control the depth of field when filming wildlife (such as birds).  But I'm not exactly close to the subject (the birds), I would consider them "mid-range distance".  And thus far I've found that from mid to long range, I really don't have meaningful control of depth of field to alter the composition, and it's only when my subject is REALLY close that I have that control.

What I didn't know is if the results of my testing were because I lacked knowledge of camera techniques, or if it was an artifact of the camera (and there really isn't a way to use the M3 in that manner).  I think it's that the M3 just doesn't support that case, but I didn't want to exclude the possibility that I just lack knowledge.

Right now I think the only means I have of getting a blurred background is in post.
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Charles Adams Posted at 1-5 05:45
Hi Labroides (and others), that much I undertsand (noise/grain with higher ISOs).  And if I have the terminology correct, I am choosing to prioritize the ISO by keeping it and 100 and adjusting the other two values to get the desired exposure.  What I don't understand is the generic benefits for the generic advice of prioritizing aperture and shutter over ISO (the advice given).  Because in those circumstances you are allowing the ISO to adjust to get the desired exposure.

So the fact that I prioritize ISO means I'm minimizing the noise and grain, and that's my habit right now.  But if I were to change my behavior, and if I were to prioritize the aperture and shutter, what is it I gain?  I'd be giving up control of the noise for...  depth of field?  Motion blur?  That's the part I don't understand with the given advice.  I'm doing the opposite of what was suggested, and I know what I'm gaining, but I don't know what I'm losing.

It sounds like you are over-thinking things.
If you lock the ISO at 100, you can shoot anything in daylight without having to worry that there will be complications finding suitable shutter and aperture settings.
You shouldn't find a situation where you need to raise the ISO setting in daylight.

It's only when you get down to low light situations that you need to think about how much you might have to raise the ISO setting or if your shutter speed might be too slow for a moving subject.
In those situations you just have to work with what light you have and with a static subject, you can still keep ISO low.
If things are dark and you want a clear shot of a moving subject, you have to raise ISO and accept the look.

There's nothing you can do about DoF .. you'll always have plenty (which is generally a good thing).


Do some testing at various apertures and ISO settings.
You'll probably find that the results are nowhere near as bad as the impression you get reading forums.

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Labroides Posted at 1-5 06:19
It sounds like you are over-thinking things.
If you lock the ISO at 100, you can shoot anything in daylight without having to worry that there will be complications finding suitable shutter and aperture settings.
You shouldn't find a situation where you need to raise the ISO setting in daylight.

Not the first time I have been informed by others that I am over thinking things

I have been experimenting with dusk shots, and I have been thus far keeping the iso as low as I can.  This has given me some photos that I can also experiment with in post.

I have experimented with aperture to try and find out how much control I have with Depth if Field, and thus far my only success is with very close subjects.

I am going to experiment with the (not really a) telephoto camera.  So far the distant mountains don't "pop" in the photos as much as they do with the naked eye, and I am wondering if I can get usable shots with the 1/2" sensor.  Most online opinions say "no".
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Charles Adams Posted at 1-5 05:45
Hi Labroides (and others), that much I undertsand (noise/grain with higher ISOs).  And if I have the terminology correct, I am choosing to prioritize the ISO by keeping it and 100 and adjusting the other two values to get the desired exposure.  What I don't understand is the generic benefits for the generic advice of prioritizing aperture and shutter over ISO (the advice given).  Because in those circumstances you are allowing the ISO to adjust to get the desired exposure.

So the fact that I prioritize ISO means I'm minimizing the noise and grain, and that's my habit right now.  But if I were to change my behavior, and if I were to prioritize the aperture and shutter, what is it I gain?  I'd be giving up control of the noise for...  depth of field?  Motion blur?  That's the part I don't understand with the given advice.  I'm doing the opposite of what was suggested, and I know what I'm gaining, but I don't know what I'm losing.

I think Labroids has explained it well. Advice when flying drones is keep iso to a minimum, it can be slightly different when shooting with handheld particularly portrait where shallow DOF is usually the preferred option for photographers and in low light iso will always be increased to minimum that will allow for desired results.

With these new drones M2p P4P mavic 3, increasing iso in low light past iso 400 will show in your filming particularly if you opt to show on bigger screens than a phone. So a general rule is to use minimum iso and keep at 100 if this works.

Shooting photos on say windy day ie of moving subject trees grass etc and you want to freeze and control the blur you will get from subjects moving can be controlled somewhat by using higher Aperture but also needing faster shutter may require higher iso to achieve , in this instance you will have to opt for slightly more noise with higher or softer image because you stopped Aperture to high. But post work can help with noise and sharpness . In these conditions practice is what will help you figure desired look for you.

But in my experience filming iso will be 99% 100.
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hallmark007 Posted at 1-5 06:47
I think Labroids has explained it well. Advice when flying drones is keep iso to a minimum, it can be slightly different when shooting with handheld particularly portrait where shallow DOF is usually the preferred option for photographers and in low light iso will always be increased to minimum that will allow for desired results.

With these new drones M2p P4P mavic 3, increasing iso in low light past iso 400 will show in your filming particularly if you opt to show on bigger screens than a phone. So a general rule is to use minimum iso and keep at 100 if this works.

Yes, so far I have kept ISO down at 100.

I did experiment a bit with wind and trees and exposure, to see if I could get a pleasing blur effect.  I got a blur, but not very pleasing.
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Charles Adams Posted at 1-5 07:06
Yes, so far I have kept ISO down at 100.

I did experiment a bit with wind and trees and exposure, to see if I could get a pleasing blur effect.  I got a blur, but not very pleasing.

To get the motion blur during the daytime you most likely will need ND filters, as youd need to slow the shutter down to 1/5 sec or slower, and even the f/11 aperture may not necessarily gets you into that range, ant least in open space (dense forest/deep alley can be different)
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Charles Adams Posted at 1-4 14:14
Hi CloudVisual, over the break I spent a lot of time delving into online courses on photography (taking good pictures) and post processing.  One week does not make an expert (not even close), but I'm confused by one thing you say, and it could be a terminology issue.

You say "Keep the ISO as low as possible, and prioritize the shutter/aperture over ISO".  I've been able to keep my ISO at 100, and I've been able to mix the shutter and aperture settings to allow me to keep the ISO at 100.  I interpret that to mean that I'm prioritizing ISO over shutter and aperture.  If I have the terminology correct, I'm curious why you recommend shutter/aperture over ISO.  I'm not disagreeing, what I am doing is "not understanding".

Sorry for the delay, seems I got people talking a lot!

Perhaps a misunderstanding in my wording, but others seem to have correctly understood; my point was that the last thing you should be using to increase exposure is the ISO or else you are going to introduce noise.

I would stress as much as possible that closing down your aperture (highest number) is damaging to the quality of your footage. You should be shooting as wide open as possible and using ND filters to reduce the amount of light reaching the sensor (if shooting film). I saw that you're talking about depth of field - this really won't affect you unless you're filming something up close. You want to be capturing at (in my opinion) the sweet spot of f2.8-5.6 and avoid at all costs going any higher than this.

The lens on the M3 is just too wide and almost all of your subjects are too far away to even begin worrying about depth of field. I'd advise you turn on focus peaking, which will show you exactly what is in focus and a vital tool to ensuring that what you're capturing is in focus, without you needing to worry. You'll need to stay in Manual Focus to see the red dots, but once you've got it enabled, you won't turn it off!
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DarthSLR Posted at 1-5 07:20
To get the motion blur during the daytime you most likely will need ND filters, as youd need to slow the shutter down to 1/5 sec or slower, and even the f/11 aperture may not necessarily gets you into that range, ant least in open space (dense forest/deep alley can be different)

Yep, bought the Freewell (???) daylight pack, and have experimented.  I have not had an opportunity to really experiment with the polarized filters yet, I need to visit my boat to be in a good environment to test those.
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I spent several years as a nature and wildlife photographer, before ever touching drones. I also ran a photography community website for a few years where we posted in forums like this, and shared our photographs for fellow photographers to critique. I also shot a lot of Airshows, which is a whole different type of photography from landscape and wildlife. I am now getting more into drones and videography. I can say that my experience as a landscape and wildlife still photographer has come in incredibly handy getting into drones. You utilize much of the same tools and parameters, and even video editing in Premier Pro isn't overly different from editing photos in photoshop I am learning. With that said I wanted to share my thoughts on this discussion.

The most important thing to remember in this discussion is that Photography and Videography are DIFFERENT. While ISO, Shutter, Aperture are still your major tools, they are used a little differently in photo's and videos. In Landscape photography for example, I rarely ever shot any photo's under F/11 Aperture. F/16 was a typical sweet spot. This is because Aperture affects depth of field, which is often really important in landscape compositions. ISO is merely the sensors sensitivity to light. As you crank the ISO up, the sensor becomes more and more sensitive to light. As this sensitivity increases however, you get more and more noise, as we all know. I did shoot just 2 or 3 weddings in my years, for family. I never liked doing weddings - I hated it in fact, and done it just because it was family. In portraiture photography, you tend to shoot much lower apertures, like F/2.0 or so, faster shutter speeds, etc. Again, aperture tends to be so much more important in photography than in videography, because of the depth of field element.

When shooting video from a drone, the Aperture is largely just used as another tool to control for exposure. Unlike what some say here, I do not prioritize ISO so hard. While you do typically want to keep ISO as low as possible to avoid noise, I much prefer to ensure proper motion blur by controlling the shutter speed for example. ISO 400 or even 800 will not kill your video. As a matter of fact, these are your only two options when shooting DLOG in mavic 3. This is one thing I hope DJI changes. For nighttime video even going up to ISO 1600 is ok.  A little noise is easy to fix in post. If you do not get proper motion blur though, there is no way to fix this. I think getting proper motion blur is much more critical. It bright sunlight, if you ignore shutter speed, it can climb into the hundreds. A shutter speed that is high can make video appear to not be smooth, and even jerky to the human eye. To me this is the FIRST Rule of drone videography is to focus first on getting smooth video captures. This means you must control the shutter speed. If you are flying 4K 30, then you use a shutter of 60. If you are flying 4K 60 then you use a shutter of 120. This essentially means the shutter opens and closes twice for every frame of video. This is what gives video a natural motion blur, which makes motion appear smooth to the human eye. This is completely opposite of what you would do in normal still photography. From a pure photography standpoint when you think of subjects in motion you immediately think high shutter speeds, which is natural, slow shutters on moving objects in photography means blurry photo's. When I did airshow photography, I was often shooting at 600, 800, or even 1000 shutter speed. I shot shutter priority in these events. When a fighter jet is zipping by at over 500mph and doing stunts, you need that incredibly fast shutter speed and you are often bursting photo's. Its all about speed here. In videography however, you are not using shutter speed to freeze motion though, in fact you sort of want to do the opposite. I have seen many photographers who know nothing about drones make this mistake - they automatically think "Flying, lots of motion, need fast shutter to keep everything sharp". This is not the case in videography. I say all that to say that I would prioritize shutter speed over ISO in most all situations when flying a drone. I would even prioritize it over aperture.

So what about aperture in videography? We know what shutter to use, and I have suggested that ISO isnt overly important so long as you keep an eye on it, and try to keep it as low as possible, without prioritizing it. For aperture, I try to keep it around or close to F/4 in the mavic 3. I want to run tests on this myself soon, but the word on the street is that the camera lens on the mavic 3 is sharpest at F/4. This is one thing about lenses that you can learn as you get more and more into the rabbit hole of photography. Different lenses tend to perform at their best when at specific apertures. Now granted, often the variances here are not big, but it is a thing that lenses tend to have preferred aperture for their peak performance. For the mavic 3 this is reported to be f/4. If you are asking "well what about your depth of field argument above?" Depth of field is really only important if you trying to capture objects in your immediate foreground, out toward infinity, with a vast background. If you are just flying a city scape for example, where all your subjects are just out in the "background" then aperture changes will have no real noticeable effect on your depth of field. The further the physical distance from your subjects to the camera lens, the less the aperture affects depth of field. Where aperture could be important is on a shot where say you wanted to pan sideways from some type of cover like a row of shrubs that are really close, and then have that open up into a vast landscape. As you hit that transition, if you are flying super close to these shrubs, and are at F/2.8, you will likely see the background / foreground be blurry as the transition occurs. Depending on the effect you are going for you can adjust things here - but consider the physical location of your drone as one of the things yo ucan adjust as well. Just changing the physical distance from the shrubs in this example will have some results on the outcome.

I'm rambling at this point so I should stop. The main thing to understand in both photography and videography is having an intimate understanding at exactly what ISO, Aperture size, and Shutter speed actually are, what they do, and how they play with each other. Once you have an intimate understanding of how these function, you will know exactly what to do in any circumstance to get the shot you want. Every shot is different.
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CloudVisual Posted at 1-5 07:30
Sorry for the delay, seems I got people talking a lot!

Perhaps a misunderstanding in my wording, but others seem to have correctly understood; my point was that the last thing you should be using to increase exposure is the ISO or else you are going to introduce noise.

A great advice, thanks!  I have been closing the aperture down to experiment with the starburst, and I've just habitually left it small for other photos.  You are suggesting that I'll get better quality for other photos by opening the aperture up as wide as I can manage.  This gives me opportunity to experiment with that in mind!

Yes, I have the focus peaking on all the time, but I've struggled with the information it conveys on my small Android device in fairly bright conditions.  So yes I am using focus peaking, but it's hard to see my display (I do have a hood that I can use).
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Charles Adams Posted at 1-5 05:52
That's what I'm finding in my testing.  That really the only situation where controlling the depth of field has any value is if I'm "droning" an already close in subject.  Otherwise the depth of field is pretty enormous.

What I was hoping to figure out is how to control the depth of field when filming wildlife (such as birds).  But I'm not exactly close to the subject (the birds), I would consider them "mid-range distance".  And thus far I've found that from mid to long range, I really don't have meaningful control of depth of field to alter the composition, and it's only when my subject is REALLY close that I have that control.

To get a blurred background, you would need to be able to get close to your subject, and then use a low Aperture like F/2.8 to create a shallow depth of field. This is the same type of approach to portraiture photography where you want to photograph someone and have the background blur into a beautiful bokeh.
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Charles Adams Posted at 1-5 07:06
Yes, so far I have kept ISO down at 100.

I did experiment a bit with wind and trees and exposure, to see if I could get a pleasing blur effect.  I got a blur, but not very pleasing.

Blur in trees is mush not good.
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Charles Adams Posted at 1-5 07:46
A great advice, thanks!  I have been closing the aperture down to experiment with the starburst, and I've just habitually left it small for other photos.  You are suggesting that I'll get better quality for other photos by opening the aperture up as wide as I can manage.  This gives me opportunity to experiment with that in mind!

Yes, I have the focus peaking on all the time, but I've struggled with the information it conveys on my small Android device in fairly bright conditions.  So yes I am using focus peaking, but it's hard to see my display (I do have a hood that I can use).

Just for clarification so others dont get confused, the smaller the aperture number in a camera (Ex: F/2.8) corresponds to a larger opening for the camera sensor to receive light, and a shallower depth of field. A larger aperture number in the camera (Ex: F/16) corresponds to a smaller opening for the camera sensor to receive light, and a larger/deeper depth of field.


A little graphic to highlight what Im saying:
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hallmark007 Posted at 1-5 07:55
Blur in trees is mush not good.

That's what I found.  I was able to get "tree blur", but I could find no redeeming aesthetic value to it.  Other than "here's what not to do."
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Tornado12 Posted at 1-5 07:45
I spent several years as a nature and wildlife photographer, before ever touching drones. I also ran a photography community website for a few years where we posted in forums like this, and shared our photographs for fellow photographers to critique. I also shot a lot of Airshows, which is a whole different type of photography from landscape and wildlife. I am now getting more into drones and videography. I can say that my experience as a landscape and wildlife still photographer has come in incredibly handy getting into drones. You utilize much of the same tools and parameters, and even video editing in Premier Pro isn't overly different from editing photos in photoshop I am learning. With that said I wanted to share my thoughts on this discussion.

The most important thing to remember in this discussion is that Photography and Videography are DIFFERENT. While ISO, Shutter, Aperture are still your major tools, they are used a little differently in photo's and videos. In Landscape photography for example, I rarely ever shot any photo's under F/11 Aperture. F/16 was a typical sweet spot. This is because Aperture affects depth of field, which is often really important in landscape compositions. ISO is merely the sensors sensitivity to light. As you crank the ISO up, the sensor becomes more and more sensitive to light. As this sensitivity increases however, you get more and more noise, as we all know. I did shoot just 2 or 3 weddings in my years, for family. I never liked doing weddings - I hated it in fact, and done it just because it was family. In portraiture photography, you tend to shoot much lower apertures, like F/2.0 or so, faster shutter speeds, etc. Again, aperture tends to be so much more important in photography than in videography, because of the depth of field element.

Thanks Tornado.  I was in fact equating video and photo and thinking ISO/Aperture/Shutter were pretty much the same for both (though I do understand the concept of motion blur and the rule of shutter speed twice frame rate).  Most of my questions were photo centric, as at the moment that's my "focus" (no pun intended).  I've been flying drones for years, I have a boat on a lake, and for years I've just been throwing the drone up and taking "auto" pics.  Which is fine, those are pics I would not otherwise have.  But now I'm realizing the opportunity I have to really take "special" pics that pop and please and evoke emotion, and my circumstances allow me to take pictures in a special environment, and I don't want to look back on these years as wasted opportunities.

At some point, I am going to delve more into video.
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Charles Adams Posted at 1-6 06:12
Thanks Tornado.  I was in fact equating video and photo and thinking ISO/Aperture/Shutter were pretty much the same for both (though I do understand the concept of motion blur and the rule of shutter speed twice frame rate).  Most of my questions were photo centric, as at the moment that's my "focus" (no pun intended).  I've been flying drones for years, I have a boat on a lake, and for years I've just been throwing the drone up and taking "auto" pics.  Which is fine, those are pics I would not otherwise have.  But now I'm realizing the opportunity I have to really take "special" pics that pop and please and evoke emotion, and my circumstances allow me to take pictures in a special environment, and I don't want to look back on these years as wasted opportunities.

At some point, I am going to delve more into video.

Sounds like a nice gig you got going there Charles. Learning to improve your photography skills is a fun journey. My only advice on it is to just keep flying and keep taking pictures. Keep trying new things. Never stop experimenting. When you find a photograph that really strikes you personally stop and study it. Ask yourself why does your eye find it so pleasing. What about it is so engaging. If you are focusing on photography primarily then composition is half the battle. I knew MANY photographers over the years and on my community site I ran who just spent buckets of money on top notch camera equipment and lenses, but who would often take very sub par photographs. They never took the time to try and actually learn composition or how to use their equipment. Composition really is everything in photography.

All the best
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