Ok, I've now had a few weeks to play with this thing and I've come to the conclusion the M3 as an aircraft is some sort of joke. But if you are not a Pro who needs really fine control this post probably won't concern you.

I've often said if they just put the new camera in the M2P and it flew like a M2P I would have been perfectly happy, I'd even pay the M3 price for it! Unfortunately this thing acts like a drunken sailor.

The ability to fly at cinematic speeds, i.e. really, really slowly with precision like the M2P could is totally gone. It simply cannot fly slow enough in ANY mode, let alone so-called "cine" mode, no matter how you tweak the settings. When you achieve a speed that is just approaching slow enough it just stops dead! Plus all the fine control of the M2P has gone. If you hover it swings sideways back and forth like its on the end of a rope. If you try to track forward or back, the same, if you crane straight up or down, the same, all with ZERO wind. It even did some really quick, weird random moves the other day, nearly crashing into some trees, with my hands totally off the controls. So we get to pay 40% more than the previous model for an aircraft that has inferior flying ability to BOTH previous models. Not a good business plan I would suggest, DJI. Where's the promised HLG by the way?

I have not experienced my Mavic 3 swinging like its on the end of a rope. It’s steady as a rock. Maybe perform an IMU reset?

Already done, and every other reset and calibration available. Although "calibration" is now a bit of a joke with the new desktop version of DJI "Assistant" 2. Also tweaked all the advanced gimbal settings and EXP.

I found with mine that how and where I do an IMU calibration makes a big difference. Bubble level checked surface is one. Has to be truly level. Two is where you do the IMU calibration. My M3 is very sensitive to anything close by that may cause interference while calibrating the IMU. I ended up trying and failing at two different locations before finding one that worked great. Before I had a horrible drift with no input from the RC sticks. Anyway just some ideas that may or may not help. Hope it does.

Cloudwalker Posted at 2-7 05:48
I found with mine that how and where I do an IMU calibration makes a big difference. Bubble level checked surface is one. Has to be truly level. Two is where you do the IMU calibration. My M3 is very sensitive to anything close by that may cause interference while calibrating the IMU. I ended up trying and failing at two different locations before finding one that worked great. Before I had a horrible drift with no input from the RC sticks. Anyway just some ideas that may or may not help. Hope it does.

Really appreciate that info, will play around with that. Of course calibration used to be able to done on the desktop software DJI Assistant, now fine calibration is not available on DJI Assistant 2 and in fact, almost to rub salt into the wound, they have renamed it to DJI Assistant2 "for consumer drones"! I don't even understand what "assistance" it gives any more tbh.

christangey Posted at 2-7 05:56
Really appreciate that info, will play around with that. Of course calibration used to be able to done on the desktop software DJI Assistant, now fine calibration is not available on DJI Assistant 2 and in fact, almost to rub salt into the wound, they have renamed it to DJI Assistant2 "for consumer drones"! I don't even understand what "assistance" it gives any more tbh.

IMU calibration was always done through the app. But sensors are still calibrated through assistant 2. It sounds as though there is something wrong with the unit, it shouldn’t behave like that. There are peculiarities flying in brake or bypass mode. And if all sensors are turned off it flys very smoothly.

Cloudwalker Posted at 2-7 05:48
I found with mine that how and where I do an IMU calibration makes a big difference. Bubble level checked surface is one. Has to be truly level. Two is where you do the IMU calibration. My M3 is very sensitive to anything close by that may cause interference while calibrating the IMU. I ended up trying and failing at two different locations before finding one that worked great. Before I had a horrible drift with no input from the RC sticks. Anyway just some ideas that may or may not help. Hope it does.

My M3 is very sensitive to anything close by that may cause interference while calibrating the IMU.
The IMU is not affected by interference.
The only thing that matters for IMU calibrating is that the site is stable, flat and level.

christangey Posted at 2-7 05:56
Really appreciate that info, will play around with that. Of course calibration used to be able to done on the desktop software DJI Assistant, now fine calibration is not available on DJI Assistant 2 and in fact, almost to rub salt into the wound, they have renamed it to DJI Assistant2 "for consumer drones"! I don't even understand what "assistance" it gives any more tbh.

Just a thought, your oscillation sounds a bit like the behaviour people were seeing in the MasterShots mode, which was worse when the smoothness settings were set "too high". It might be worth trying dialling it down a touch and see if that improves things. I don't have a M3 to know exactly where those settings were.

Good luck mate

Hi Chris, I have not flown mine much yet to be able to confirm as it's cold out, but wanted to mention I am also really waiting for HLG. I really hope DJI would include HLG in the next firmware update along with other fixes.  Thanks and Take care, Mike.

It's not great, but my experience has not been that bad as you are describing.  Any chance of sharing a video showing this so we can compare notes?  

Mzp Posted at 2-7 07:55
Hi Chris, I have not flown mine much yet to be able to confirm as it's cold out, but wanted to mention I am also really waiting for HLG. I really hope DJI would include HLG in the next firmware update along with other fixes.  Thanks and Take care, Mike.

Sorry to hear about issues you are seeing Chris. Hope they can either be resolved by IMU calibration suggestions or otherwise DJI would address them in the future update.

Thanks and Take care, Mike.

Its a pity the M2P is no longer available Chris. You could have returned your M3 and asked for a New M2P with extra batteries!

yogi053 Posted at 2-7 09:37
Its a pity the M2P is no longer available Chris. You could have returned your M3 and asked for a New M2P with extra batteries!

But then you don't get the new camera! I still have the M2P as I always keep the former model as a spare on location. There is nothing worse than being on a paid job in the middle of nowhere with a non-operational machine, especially if the client has spent a lot of money setting up what you are supposed to be shooting!

Would you have by any chance left the obstacle avoidance system set in 'bypass' mode? This thing flys a lot smoother with the obstacle avoidance set in 'brake' mode. By the way, I'm always looking forward to seeing your amazing videos!

Monkey007 Posted at 2-7 15:31
Would you have by any chance left the obstacle avoidance system set in 'bypass' mode? This thing flys a lot smoother with the obstacle avoidance set in 'brake' mode. By the way, I'm always looking forward to seeing your amazing videos!

Thanks Monkey, no I have all that switched "off". It is now morning in Australia so I'm going to try some of the suggestions that have been coming in here.

Had trouble even finding the APAS on and off as the switch only seems to appear when the aircraft is powered down, happy to be proven wrong though!  Re-calibrated everything again including the controller and IMU (yet again!) and it still drifts the same. Actually the more I play with it the more I realize it is not just drifting laterally but also up and down, even though it's a couple of inches it is enough to turn a pro shot into an amateur one. Adjusted the smoothness levels as suggested by Nicodema (above) but no difference, also tweaking EXP settings made no difference for the drift issue. But as I mentioned it is not just the drift problem, the lack of a controllable low speed is every bit as important. I've just noticed that so-called slow speed "Cine" mode has exactly the same lowest speed as "Normal" mode! So what's that about DJI?

I have both M3 and M3 Cine, and a lot of my control issues were resolved in the latest update.  What you seem to be describing is not normal (in my limited experience) for the M3.  Have you considered sending in for service and evaluation?

christangey Posted at 2-7 17:34
Had trouble even finding the APAS on and off as the switch only seems to appear when the aircraft is powered down, happy to be proven wrong though!  Re-calibrated everything again including the controller and IMU (yet again!) and it still drifts the same. Actually the more I play with it the more I realize it is not just drifting laterally but also up and down, even though it's a couple of inches it is enough to turn a pro shot into an amateur one. Adjusted the smoothness levels as suggested by Nicodema (above) but no difference, also tweaking EXP settings made no difference for the drift issue. But as I mentioned it is not just the drift problem, the lack of a controllable low speed is every bit as important. I've just noticed that so-called slow speed "Cine" mode has exactly the same lowest speed as "Normal" mode! So what's that about DJI?

As TonyPHX said maybe post a video. It’s definitely not normal.

christangey Posted at 2-7 17:34
Had trouble even finding the APAS on and off as the switch only seems to appear when the aircraft is powered down, happy to be proven wrong though!  Re-calibrated everything again including the controller and IMU (yet again!) and it still drifts the same. Actually the more I play with it the more I realize it is not just drifting laterally but also up and down, even though it's a couple of inches it is enough to turn a pro shot into an amateur one. Adjusted the smoothness levels as suggested by Nicodema (above) but no difference, also tweaking EXP settings made no difference for the drift issue. But as I mentioned it is not just the drift problem, the lack of a controllable low speed is every bit as important. I've just noticed that so-called slow speed "Cine" mode has exactly the same lowest speed as "Normal" mode! So what's that about DJI?

I think that drone has an issue. If it is still drifting, in no wind after an IMU calibration, send the drone back mate.

Suren Posted at 2-7 20:02
I think that drone has an issue. If it is still drifting, in no wind after an IMU calibration, send the drone back mate.

Trouble is nothing is simple in the real world. I was due to shoot a big drama series (Amazon Prime) next month until the M3 failed on two counts in front of the DoP and Director who were out here on a location scout. He asked me to do a slow crane up over a hill and the thing just wobbled from side to side making me look like an idiot. On top of that, not strictly DJI's fault, was that the monitor picture was a warped and distorted mess. It would have been nice to know from DJI that the "new" fly app was so processor-intensive that a 3 year old ipad mini couldn't handle it, so now I've had to shell out another $US700 for a new ipad. But he is now talking about me only doing wide landscape shots where slow speed is not important so I don't want to send it off to DJI for an indefinite period right now and not even know if it will be back in time or whether they will fix it anyway.  I presume it would be covered under DJI Care but I just don't know.

hallmark007 Posted at 2-7 19:30
As TonyPHX said maybe post a video. It’s definitely not normal.

I'm not sure me spending the time doing that is going to help anything, I've already described the issue. Btw somebody just pointed out on another forum that Philip Bloom had already talked about this problem https://www.change.org/p/dji-dji ... ble-speed-cine-mode

christangey Posted at 2-7 21:26
Trouble is nothing is simple in the real world. I was due to shoot a big drama series (Amazon Prime) next month until the M3 failed on two counts in front of the DoP and Director who were out here on a location scout. He asked me to do a slow crane up over a hill and the thing just wobbled from side to side making me look like an idiot. On top of that, not strictly DJI's fault, was that the monitor picture was a warped and distorted mess. It would have been nice to know from DJI that the "new" fly app was so processor-intensive that a 3 year old ipad mini couldn't handle it, so now I've had to shell out another $US700 for a new ipad. But he is now talking about me only doing wide landscape shots where slow speed is not important so I don't want to send it off to DJI for an indefinite period right now and not even know if it will be back in time or whether they will fix it anyway.  I presume it would be covered under DJI Care but I just don't know.

It Should be covered under warranty. There is a Dji Service centre in Melbourne that you could take it to if you are close by there.

christangey Posted at 2-7 15:05
But then you don't get the new camera! I still have the M2P as I always keep the former model as a spare on location. There is nothing worse than being on a paid job in the middle of nowhere with a non-operational machine, especially if the client has spent a lot of money setting up what you are supposed to be shooting!

Just wondering. Has the M2P ever let you down?

christangey Posted at 2-7 21:30
I'm not sure me spending the time doing that is going to help anything, I've already described the issue. Btw somebody just pointed out on another forum that Philip Bloom had already talked about this problem https://www.change.org/p/dji-dji-please-give-us-back-tripod-mode-or-an-adjustable-speed-cine-mode

Phillip Bloom just found that cine mode that replaced tripod in air2 first then in the Air2s and it was quicker across the spectrum of the RC. All speed modes start at 0 and continue through the range of speeds for that mode. So you can fly the same speed on sport as you can in any other mode and this would be the same for tripod mode. But it would require amazing dexterity to fly 1 m/s in sport mode as it would in cine or normal but it is possible. Phillip made a bracket to slow elevator to 1 m/s at 100%.

You wont need to use care refresh if the drone has so many problems it will be replaced and it doesn’t take to long.

Great video and flying can be achieved with this drone, both for Ametures and professionally.

yogi053 Posted at 2-8 04:18
Just wondering. Has the M2P ever let you down?

Nope, not really...and just as well too as in terms of camera the Mavic 1 is not a great spare to have!

christangey Posted at 2-8 04:25
Nope, not really...and just as well too as in terms of camera the Mavic 1 is not a great spare to have!

Thanks for your reply Chris.

hallmark007 Posted at 2-8 04:22
Phillip Bloom just found that cine mode that replaced tripod in air2 first then in the Air2s and it was quicker across the spectrum of the RC. All speed modes start at 0 and continue through the range of speeds for that mode. So you can fly the same speed on sport as you can in any other mode and this would be the same for tripod mode. But it would require amazing dexterity to fly 1 m/s in sport mode as it would in cine or normal but it is possible. Phillip made a bracket to slow elevator to 1 m/s at 100%.

You wont need to use care refresh if the drone has so many problems it will be replaced and it doesn’t take to long.

Not sure of the point of your post Hallmark and this video demonstrates none of the issues we are discussing here. Many of us can fly at way less than 1m/s if the aircraft allows it, but that's the problem, the M3 doesn't, it just stops dead instead. Also it is simply not true that you can fly as slow with the M3 as the M2P. I know that as fact, I do this for a living.

christangey Posted at 2-8 04:31
Not sure of the point of your post Hallmark and this video demonstrates none of the issues we are discussing here. Many of us can fly at way less than 1m/s if the aircraft allows it, but that's the problem, the M3 doesn't, it just stops dead instead. Also it is simply not true that you can fly as slow with the M3 as the M2P. I know that as fact, I do this for a living.

This video demonstrates that their are videos mavic 3 drones working correctly and there are plenty more out there similar and better. If your opening point is your drone flys like a pig. Then its either pilot problem or drone problem but video proves its not for every pilot or drone. You keep blaming the drone but when many others pointed out that it most likely is a problem with the drone you then steer away from returning it. You’re not going to get a magic answer here. So if the drone is the problem and you’re keeping it then you have to live with that decision. I know if I had too come here with a drone that flys like a pig “its not a quick fix I’m looking for” if a moderator came here they would also advise returning.

Regarding lowest speed in any mode both M2 and M3. They are exactly the same for lowest speed. But in full elevator in cine mode is faster than M2 full elevator in tripod and in this mode slow speed is exactly the same. And Phillip bloom has made a comprehensive video regarding this.

I think everyone here is actually giving best and correct advice and its a pity it looks like you ended up with a drone that’s not working as it should. Just my opinion.

Definitely sounds like a hardware issue.  I purchased mine after the December firmware update and did not have any of the issues.  After testing the Jan update, it has been pretty rock steady.  I live on a Florida beach so been flying in pretty strong winds and it has be very stable.  I have not flown it on anything professional at this time because I have been waiting for the updates.  I may use it on my next job (with backup in the car).  I would definitely send yours back.

djiuser_3MllD4ggWTY2 Posted at 2-8 05:44
you will see that most of hallmark's posts are just defending dji. even if he doesn't know what he's talking about.

NGC, you obviously did NOT read the reply.

djiuser_3MllD4ggWTY2 Posted at 2-8 05:44
you will see that most of hallmark's posts are just defending dji. even if he doesn't know what he's talking about.

Yes and he has a way of twisting what you say into something else, ignoring the point you make and then adding "strawman" arguments, things he knows to be false but just wants you to argue about. When you read his posts widely it seems this is his modus operandi. Funnily enough he sent me a message (which I won't quote) warning me about a troll on this thread! Anyway, I won't be responding to him again.

vsasolutions Posted at 2-8 13:23
Definitely sounds like a hardware issue.  I purchased mine after the December firmware update and did not have any of the issues.  After testing the Jan update, it has been pretty rock steady.  I live on a Florida beach so been flying in pretty strong winds and it has be very stable.  I have not flown it on anything professional at this time because I have been waiting for the updates.  I may use it on my next job (with backup in the car).  I would definitely send yours back.

Thanks, am considering that at some point but have to be careful how I schedule that down time into my business schedule. The M3 can still be used on certain jobs right now only not where I need fine control. I'll wait for the next firmware update just in case.

Good luck @christangey.  Your M3 has some legit problems for sure.  I would be so annoyed if embarrased in front of the client with the wobble.   I know for sure mine started rough, but post firmware updates, there was hope.  : )

TonyPHX Posted at 2-8 16:56
Good luck @christangey.  Your M3 has some legit problems for sure.  I would be so annoyed if embarrased in front of the client with the wobble.   I know for sure mine started rough, but post firmware updates, there was hope.  : )

thanks yes, worth waiting for the next firmware update first, I just don't trust this whole return process and the freight situation these days thrown in for good measure. I also hope the next update includes HLG, which was initially promised in the last update.

Just occurred to me that I should maybe explain what I mean by "cinematic speed" and "cinematic movement" which many people here would not be familiar with and why low speed is so critical. In Cinematography we often use the 180 degree shutter rule, originally developed for mechanical film which simply means that the "number" of your shutter speed should be double your frame rate. We've moved onto digital but the effect is largely the same. So for example at 25P we ALWAYS shoot at 1/50th to get a cinematic movement. This gives the look people are used to from over 100 years of filmmaking and, know it or not, we all are used to the way things move in film. This is also why you rarely see quick pans or tilts in a normal scene as it causes what is known as motion blur and sometimes jittering (of course it doesn't matter in action movies etc.) Most of what I do is slow and deliberate and the last thing I want is a pronounced motion blur or some sort of jittering. This is why it is hard to put an exact speed number on what is too fast as it can vary too with how close you are to the subject. All I can say it that the M2P could achieve cinematic movement and the M3 can't, or at least my one can't!

christangey Posted at 2-8 17:08
thanks yes, worth waiting for the next firmware update first, I just don't trust this whole return process and the freight situation these days thrown in for good measure. I also hope the next update includes HLG, which was initially promised in the last update.

Given you are using it on-set also, you are definitely a "power user".  Maybe since DJI is trying to classify the M3 as consumer class (which I disagree with) it means you should be looking upwards on their product line?   I don't know - these are just the thoughts I have been having about my M3 experience.  Since getting the M3 I have flown more time with the M2.  

Anyways, hoping all of us get some better M3 times ahead.

christangey Posted at 2-8 17:38
Just occurred to me that I should maybe explain what I mean by "cinematic speed" and "cinematic movement" which many people here would not be familiar with and why low speed is so critical. In Cinematography we often use the 180 degree shutter rule, originally developed for mechanical film which simply means that the "number" of your shutter speed should be double your frame rate. We've moved onto digital but the effect is largely the same. So for example at 25P we ALWAYS shoot at 1/50th to get a cinematic movement. This gives the look people are used to from over 100 years of filmmaking and, know it or not, we all are used to the way things move in film. This is also why you rarely see quick pans or tilts in a normal scene as it causes what is known as motion blur and sometimes jittering (of course it doesn't matter in action movies etc.) Most of what I do is slow and deliberate and the last thing I want is a pronounced motion blur or some sort of jittering. This is why it is hard to put an exact speed number on what is too fast as it can vary too with how close you are to the subject. All I can say it that the M2P could achieve cinematic movement and the M3 can't, or at least my one can't!

i appreciate the explanation on this!

TonyPHX Posted at 2-8 22:54
Given you are using it on-set also, you are definitely a "power user".  Maybe since DJI is trying to classify the M3 as consumer class (which I disagree with) it means you should be looking upwards on their product line?   I don't know - these are just the thoughts I have been having about my M3 experience.  Since getting the M3 I have flown more time with the M2.  

Anyways, hoping all of us get some better M3 times ahead.

Yes funny how the last model is labeled "Pro" and the updated model is consumer but costs 40% more! No, I won't be getting a bigger model when the only advantage they have is interchangeable lenses now. Nice to have but it is all about the licensing. Here in Australia the sub-2Kg category has more civilized rules than those in weights above which virtually require a pilot's license.

christangey Posted at 2-8 17:38
Just occurred to me that I should maybe explain what I mean by "cinematic speed" and "cinematic movement" which many people here would not be familiar with and why low speed is so critical. In Cinematography we often use the 180 degree shutter rule, originally developed for mechanical film which simply means that the "number" of your shutter speed should be double your frame rate. We've moved onto digital but the effect is largely the same. So for example at 25P we ALWAYS shoot at 1/50th to get a cinematic movement. This gives the look people are used to from over 100 years of filmmaking and, know it or not, we all are used to the way things move in film. This is also why you rarely see quick pans or tilts in a normal scene as it causes what is known as motion blur and sometimes jittering (of course it doesn't matter in action movies etc.) Most of what I do is slow and deliberate and the last thing I want is a pronounced motion blur or some sort of jittering. This is why it is hard to put an exact speed number on what is too fast as it can vary too with how close you are to the subject. All I can say it that the M2P could achieve cinematic movement and the M3 can't, or at least my one can't!

Very well explained and I totally agree with you.Tripod mode of M2P is ideal for close up filming when panning. You have much more control of the drone movements. So why does not a later model at a  higher cost do not have this?

christangey Posted at 2-8 23:49
Yes funny how the last model is labeled "Pro" and the updated model is consumer but costs 40% more! No, I won't be getting a bigger model when the only advantage they have is interchangeable lenses now. Nice to have but it is all about the licensing. Here in Australia the sub-2Kg category has more civilized rules than those in weights above which virtually require a pilot's license.

Makes sense.  I am on the fence also about moving up-range.  But....  probably going to once some new models come out.  (Provided the M3 experience gets sorted.)