Iancraig10
Second Officer
United Kingdom
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HGDC84 Posted at 6-7 12:47
Did a test run today with 60fps and 1/200th shutter speed, and the flicker was gone :-) Just have to experiment with the ND filters (didn't originally use them while cycling earlier on, as I was uncertain if they would get knocked off if I drove to a bump, but tested with a fixed polarizer today and found out it is safe when riding on the pavement) as the image was overexposed and the movement was maybe a tad jerky. You think setting the shutter to 1/100 and/or using an appropriate ND filter would help those?
Thank you very much for your previous tips, and thanks in advance for replying to this message, too!
At 60FPS, you can set the shutter to 100th indoors and it will likely be ok. Trouble with 60FPS is that you lose a stop in comparison to 30FPS so it is darker indoors than 30FPS.
If you want to keep 100th sec outside, then an nd filter might well be needed.
I use 30FPS and set the shutter in PAL regions to 1/50th so no accidents happen with lights. You also get a nice motion blur. However, if running around and moving the camera a lot, I put the shutter speed higher so there are no weird effects with motion and stabilisation. Stabilisation helps keep handshake down if you hold it steady at 1/50th.
Then you get more detail for the same bitrate in the shot. Raising the frame rate halves the amount of data for each ‘frame’ but smooths out movement if you are throwing the camera around. I use 60FPS for ‘b’ roll type stuff where the camera is still (because it looks even more steady) and for a semi slow motion effect.
Nothing wrong with 60FPS, but you do lose motion blur and picture data is halved for each frame. So moving leaves for instance, can look blocky. With more data, there’s less chance of that at 30.
It’s not a good idea to mix 50 and 60fps. Still shots with little movement would be ok or just quick shots, but before long, movement might appear ‘stilted’; might be more noticeable on long takes. Problem is, if you render at 60, the software has to find 10 frames of its own for anything shot in 50. That can lead to odd movement.
Then again, if you can’t see it, don’t worry about it. I wouldn’t do that though.
If you're using it more as an action cam, the 60FPS and a high shutter speed makes sense. Then the stabilisation gets a hold. The fast frame rate 'disguises' the silly, high shutter speeds and resulting judder in movement. That's why action cams have their own distinct, sharp look, but you can get stunning footage from the Action 3 if you take the trouble to set it up like a 'normal' camera and hold it relatively still, like a standard camera.
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