I noticed sometime there is flickering on the recording. I have other video clips that has the same issue.
My hand is pretty steady and it doesn't look like the flickering is man made.

Does anyone have the same issue? this happens quite often if my camera is moving. Am I doing anything wrong?

Video Info:
2.7K 30 Rock Steady
FOV: Dewarp
Color: Normal
Exposure: auto
WB: auto
Firmware: 01.01.05.40

No idea, why is there only 720p resolution?

Low light is the cause I guess

I thought I seen anti flicker in the menu under settings.

Shorter time than 1/60s?

hallmark007 Posted at 10-31 02:33
I thought I seen anti flicker in the menu under settings.

FYI, the anti-flicker setting in the menu is for choosing between 60 or 50 hz AC power (depending on where you are in the world) so the camera will choose frame rates that prevent picking up the pulsing of lights due to the frequency of the AC sinewave powering the lighting.  

What's shown in the video is something different.  I believe it is caused by a combination of factors stemming from the use of digital stabilization in low light.  

Digital stabilization is essentially shifting the image around in an attempt to keep the same details in the same place in the frame, but it has to pull them from different pixels in order to do that.  Low light means slower shutter speeds and more noise reduction, and it can lead to odd artifacts like what is seen in the video.  Unfortunately, there isn't a perfect solution.  Changing to manual settings in the camera may allow you to use a higher shutter speed and hopefully compensate for exposure with ISO.  Turning off image stabilization may help as well, but you would likely just trade the flickering for a shaky image.

I would say the best thing to do is experiment with different settings to see what gives you the best results.

BigTB Posted at 10-31 03:13
FYI, the anti-flicker setting in the menu is for choosing between 60 or 50 hz AC power (depending on where you are in the world) so the camera will choose frame rates that prevent picking up the pulsing of lights due to the frequency of the AC sinewave powering the lighting.  

What's shown in the video is something different.  I believe it is caused by a combination of factors stemming from the use of digital stabilization in low light.  

Thank you, I have seen this before in cameras without digital stabilization .

hallmark007 Posted at 10-31 03:18
Thank you, I have seen this before in cameras without digital stabilization .

The anti-flicker setting is about shutter speed, not digital stabilization.  

Since utility/mains power is AC, the voltage crosses "zero" either 50 or 60 times per second.  This will literally make the brightness of certain types of lights vary in brightness, along with this cycle.  Our eyes aren't "fast" enough to notice the slight pulsing of lights due to this sinewave in most situations.  But cameras are fast enough, and if the shutter speed is sort of "synced" up with this frequency it can lead to a very noticeable pulsing or flickering of lights.  In fact, in cameras with a rolling shutter it can even lead to banding with alternating lines of light and dark in the image.  The anti-flicker setting of a camera is designed to prevent the camera from using frame rate combinations that will make this flickering show up.

This setting won't prevent anything the original poster is dealing with, unfortunately.

Jitter due to that  window, I shut off Rocksteady.  and see if it improves but this was what a one time moment?

BigTB Posted at 10-31 03:44
The anti-flicker setting is about shutter speed, not digital stabilization.  

Since utility/mains power is AC, the voltage crosses "zero" either 50 or 60 times per second.  This will literally make the brightness of certain types of lights vary in brightness, along with this cycle.  Our eyes aren't "fast" enough to notice the slight pulsing of lights due to this sinewave in most situations.  But cameras are fast enough, and if the shutter speed is sort of "synced" up with this frequency it can lead to a very noticeable pulsing or flickering of lights.  In fact, in cameras with a rolling shutter it can even lead to banding with alternating lines of light and dark in the image.  The anti-flicker setting of a camera is designed to prevent the camera from using frame rate combinations that will make this flickering show up.

I’m not saying it will, but the flickering I have seen with other cameras without digital stabilization. That was my point in answering your explanation.

hallmark007 Posted at 10-31 03:54
I’m not saying it will, but the flickering I have seen with other cameras without digital stabilization. That was my point in answering your explanation.

Sorry, when you said you'd seen "this" in other cameras without stabilization, I thought you mean the setting, not the flickering.

I'm sure it's not only about the stabilization.  Shutter speed, noise reduction, anti-aliasing and even digital sharpening can all play roles in creating artifacts like this.  In fact, digital sharpening can often cause weird flickering of details, especially at low shutter speeds in low light.  The slight motion blur means there are no high contrast edges for the digital sharpening to latch onto and "sharpen."  During moments where the movement is less the details suddenly have higher contrast edges and the sharpening sort of "pops" in.  I have seen that in other cameras when high digital sharpening is used and it could be a part of what is happening here.

BigTB Posted at 10-31 04:05
Sorry, when you said you'd seen "this" in other cameras without stabilization, I thought you mean the setting, not the flickering.

I'm sure it's not only about the stabilization.  Shutter speed, noise reduction, anti-aliasing and even digital sharpening can all play roles in creating artifacts like this.  In fact, digital sharpening can often cause weird flickering of details, especially at low shutter speeds in low light.  The slight motion blur means there are no high contrast edges for the digital sharpening to latch onto and "sharpen."  During moments where the movement is less the details suddenly have higher contrast edges and the sharpening sort of "pops" in.  I have seen that in other cameras when high digital sharpening is used and it could be a part of what is happening here.

Cheers thank you.

I experienced similar "flickering" or trembling in various situations when dynamic range is problematic or in low light. The boundaries of the white areas tend to tremble. I always have EIS on in those situations so cannot judge if it is the cause. but it has nothing to do with conventional flickering (50/60 Hz) since it happens with natural light too.
for example in this video dealing with low light, it is observed at ~ 00:12 in the sky area or from 2:14 in the white areas. In fact EIS priority removes the highlights, so it can be corrected by choosing appropriate settings, but on the go, that is not easy.

  

Low light for sure is the problem. in that situation you should have activated the option " EIS priority in low light ON " , You will find this option not in the Pro menu but in the Basic one.

BigTB Posted at 10-31 04:05
Sorry, when you said you'd seen "this" in other cameras without stabilization, I thought you mean the setting, not the flickering.

I'm sure it's not only about the stabilization.  Shutter speed, noise reduction, anti-aliasing and even digital sharpening can all play roles in creating artifacts like this.  In fact, digital sharpening can often cause weird flickering of details, especially at low shutter speeds in low light.  The slight motion blur means there are no high contrast edges for the digital sharpening to latch onto and "sharpen."  During moments where the movement is less the details suddenly have higher contrast edges and the sharpening sort of "pops" in.  I have seen that in other cameras when high digital sharpening is used and it could be a part of what is happening here.

So I just tried it in broad daylight with EIS off, and I can still see some minor jittering effect when I am moving.
Edit: EIS Priority off

I wish dji can fix it. it is really annoying. How can this be an action camera if it produces digital jittering when there is motion blur. Right now I have two options: 1. turn on EIS and give up all the shutter speed controls. or 2 Enable  Pro Mode and pray the screen won't get jittery.

Hi there. Thank you for reaching out. When EIS (RockSteady, HorizonSteady, or HorizonBalancing) is enabled, the shutter speed is demanding and will magnify the motion blur generated during movement.
To ensure stable video footage in low-light/dark environments, it is recommended to use the device following the steps below:
1. Enable "Low light stabilization" mode (with PRO mode disabled).
2. Try to hold the camera stably when shooting.
3. Try to shoot in a bright environment.
4. Choose M mode in “Exposure”, and set ISO to 100-12800, and shutter speed to at least 1/200s, as in, 1/200, 1/400, and 1/500. That is, the faster the shutter speed, the better.
5. Disable EIS to see if the video footage can meet your shooting needs.
We look forward to hearing from you. Thank you for your continued support.

DJI Tony Posted at 10-31 15:37
Hi there. Thank you for reaching out. When EIS (RockSteady, HorizonSteady, or HorizonBalancing) is enabled, the shutter speed is demanding and will magnify the motion blur generated during movement.
To ensure stable video footage in low-light/dark environments, it is recommended to use the device following the steps below:
1. Enable "Low light stabilization" mode (with PRO mode disabled).

Please see post #23.
It is shot under blue sky. Plenty of light. You can still see the video jittering when there is minor movement.

I get that the video can be smoother when turning off Pro Mode and turn on EIS priority. But then I lose all abilities to have D-Cine Like, shutter speed control, and manual exposure. That is not how an action camera should behave. I believe the software is overcompensating stabilization when there is movement and contrast while trying to sharpening the video.


Video info:
2.7k 24 Rock Steady Pro Mode On.

fanscaed4fb2 Posted at 10-31 16:22
Please see post #23.
It is shot under blue sky. Plenty of light. You can still see the video jittering when there is minor movement.

All my use of the camera has been with pro mode on.  I haven't seen any jittering like that in good light.  Do you have the exposure set to auto?  Are you using any ND filters or anything like that?

BigTB Posted at 11-1 03:26
All my use of the camera has been with pro mode on.  I haven't seen any jittering like that in good light.  Do you have the exposure set to auto?  Are you using any ND filters or anything like that?

Yes. everything is auto. No ND filter.

fanscaed4fb2 Posted at 11-1 05:29
Yes. everything is auto. No ND filter.

One point of clarification.  If you have "Rocksteady" on, you have EIS on.  EIS is Electronic Image Stabilization, which is what Rocksteady is.  I think what you mean when you say EIS Off is that the option in non pro mode for EIS priority in low light is off.  But if you have Rocksteady on, EIS is on.

Just hoping to clarify the details of the terminology being used.

I am no expert, but to me it seems like, what i fear from oa3, after there update, that the focus issue, made, now, the whitebalance go bananas, and it,s over exposed and you get some flig. I will say, go manual setting with this cam. And D-cinelike and put iso max at 400 in sunny days, and up if it,s to dark. Looks so bad. Im in chok, you phone whud have done a better job.

2 days before i got a bicycle ride again in the evening and i'm happy with results when i compare it to my OA1 .  EIS is working very good in low light with all Auto chosen.

The problem is with street light flickerings . It was also set to auto but seem horrible. In my country ( Turkiye  220V and 50hz AC power) i think i need to set to 50hz insead of auto.

Here is a small example:

TNQ Posted at 11-4 00:30
2 days before i got a bicycle ride again in the evening and i'm happy with results when i compare it to my OA1 .  EIS is working very good in low light with all Auto chosen.

The problem is with street light flickerings . It was also set to auto but seem horrible. In my country ( Turkiye  220V and 50hz AC power) i think i need to set to 50hz insead of auto.

Shoot in 25 fps and 50Hz

TNQ Posted at 11-4 00:30
2 days before i got a bicycle ride again in the evening and i'm happy with results when i compare it to my OA1 .  EIS is working very good in low light with all Auto chosen.

The problem is with street light flickerings . It was also set to auto but seem horrible. In my country ( Turkiye  220V and 50hz AC power) i think i need to set to 50hz insead of auto.

The flickering: it's your bikelight, not the street lights.

djiuser_zEKgdWRops1S Posted at 11-4 02:47
The flickering: it's your bikelight, not the street lights.

Its both indeed

TNQ Posted at 11-4 00:30
2 days before i got a bicycle ride again in the evening and i'm happy with results when i compare it to my OA1 .  EIS is working very good in low light with all Auto chosen.

The problem is with street light flickerings . It was also set to auto but seem horrible. In my country ( Turkiye  220V and 50hz AC power) i think i need to set to 50hz insead of auto.

That's what low-light stabilization does. I mean the shaking...

StevoB Posted at 11-4 07:53
That's what low-light stabilization does. I mean the shaking...

It really works good , i am comparing my old biking videos shot with OA1 and OA3 is way better .

you can see night shots done by OA1 starting at 10:10 :

For me, the flickering is done at home in low artificial lighting. I turn off stabilization and the flickering stops.

fanscaed4fb2 Posted at 10-31 16:22
Please see post #23.
It is shot under blue sky. Plenty of light. You can still see the video jittering when there is minor movement.

Hello, fanscaed4fb2. Thank you for the update and we're sorry to read that you're facing the same issues even with sufficient lighting. In this case, if the light and shade contrast of the recording subject is not very high during shooting, we recommend that you use Manual mode and fix the shutter speed and ISO to avoid flickering as shown in the video. On the contrary, if there is a strong contrast between the light and shade of the subject before and after the shooting process, we suggest using the Auto mode to avoid over-exposure and under-exposure. To avoid flickering due to the automatic view adjustment, do not switch repeatedly between light and dark view. If the same behavior remains, we're afraid but you may consider sending your product in for further testing. To submit an online repair request, you may visit this link: {https://repair.dji.com/repair/index}. Please let us know if you need further assistance. Thank you for your understanding and support.

we recommend that you use Manual mode and fix the shutter speed and ISO to avoid flickering as shown in the video. On the contrary, if there is a strong contrast between the light and shade of the subject before and after the shooting process, we suggest using the Auto mode

use Manual or auto  seems they are just telling you  there are settings nothing more

DJI Tony Posted at 2022-10-31 15:37
Hi there. Thank you for reaching out. When EIS (RockSteady, HorizonSteady, or HorizonBalancing) is enabled, the shutter speed is demanding and will magnify the motion blur generated during movement.
To ensure stable video footage in low-light/dark environments, it is recommended to use the device following the steps below:
1. Enable "Low light stabilization" mode (with PRO mode disabled).

So essentially what you're saying is that normal cinematic settings like, 30 fps and 1/60 shutter speed, wont produce a high image quality even in good light due to EIS magnifying motion blur. Therefore even with a frame rate of 30 fps you should set the shutter speed much higher like 1/120 or 1/200 to achieve normal motion blur levels, correct?

Hello everyone , this thread was helpful as I am having the same issue in both of my brand new week old DJI Action 3. Worked great for 2 days and when I turned it on 3 rd day , I saw black bands across my video oscillating through . Then I did a factory reset , that issue was solved but now it’s doing the same thing as that wedding video ( in both low light and broad day light ) . Messed with every possible settings and still happening .  Anybody from DJI here who can clarify this issue ?

turn off Pro the flicker goes away. I had pro on and I was flickering bad.

Hi. "Turning of pro" can not be the answer, to get a good video in daylight-conditions, stabilisation on,  with a 330 euro -product.
Same settings, same conditions with Osmo Action 1 and no jitter-problems.

I have the same issue, independend of light-enviroment and 2 possibilities to fix it.
In the end you need a negative EV. I use -0,7 and have no jitter-problems AFTER doing that.

You can reach a negative EV with using ND-filters or a higher shutterspeed. For the last one, you may will lose motion blur. In this case you should use some filter in e.g. VirtualDub x64.  

I hope this MacGyver-Fix will not be necessary anymore, after the next firmware-update.

Rk_82 Posted at 2-7 03:08
Hi. "Turning of pro" can not be the answer, to get a good video in daylight-conditions, stabilisation on,  with a 330 euro -product.
Same settings, same conditions with Osmo Action 1 and no jitter-problems.

"You can reach a negative EV with using ND-filters or a higher shutterspeed."
Are you sure they don't just push up the ISO to higher, hence getting worse quality?

VirtualDub? Back to the Future! LOL, what are you running on, Vista? :-)

osmonauta Posted at 2-7 04:25
"You can reach a negative EV with using ND-filters or a higher shutterspeed."
Are you sure they don't just push up the ISO to higher, hence getting worse quality?

No Linux and W11, but thanx for asking.

4K 60 FPS 120 Shutter ISO 100 RS "on" - sunny day. I get jitter.
Only with shutter >500 I get no jitter - EV = -0,7 (or without RS "off")
Also in auto-mode no jitter.

Regarding VirtualDub: Not everybody like to pay for Adobe or Final Cut.
Besides I was talking of a fix, which you wouldnt need, if the camera would working without described problem. But by the way: VirtualDub doing so many jobs very fine and fast.

But the topic is not VD, but jitter with stabilisation "on" on a sunny day.
If you look into the net (e.g. youtube), some people have the same issue, other people not.

At the moment, the only way to use my Osmo 3 with RS is only in auto-mode.

Rk_82 Posted at 2-8 08:40
No Linux and W11, but thanx for asking.

4K 60 FPS 120 Shutter ISO 100 RS "on" - sunny day. I get jitter.

I have no doubt about VirtualDub. I don't shell out for big apps either. Recently I found LosslessCut, which is a GUI for FFmpeg, and I love it. I don't think people realize the potential of these small apps. It just cracked me up because I have used VirtualDub like, oh, more than a decade ago or so, possibly with Win7 (or was it DOS?) :-)

I don't use 4K because my laptop is older and cannot handle it, but I have a 1080p 60fps footage, camera is on my bike, using RS auto on a cloudy day, and I don't get any jitters. But you said you get jitters when it's in manual mode and auto is fine. I will have to try manual next time and see.

Back to topic :-)

This video I recorded in PRO 4K 60 FPS Shutter 120 Cinematic Wide Horizonsteady.
SD Card: Samsung EVO Plus A2 V30 Lvl 3
Is my Action 3 faulty??

https://www.file2send.eu/de/download/g0AJ6AZExDcl256Fp366F6CIXdrQVhrVpx16Ny1h2hSKs2zg4Da82H2g1qSfMgsK

Hope the link is working

Rk_82 Posted at 2-8 23:08
Back to topic :-)

This video I recorded in PRO 4K 60 FPS Shutter 120 Cinematic Wide Horizonsteady.

That didn't look normal.
Not sure if you mentioned, but did you also get jitter if shot on Auto? Because I only shoot in Auto and have no jitter at even worse condition (camera shaking)