Hi all, just wondering what iso range i should be using in different condtions, the advice i heard is keep as minimal as possible, brighter the situation the lower u can put the range,
I did some footage in the playlist linked below, seems like the stabilization is having heart attack on the lower iso ranges like 100-3200 iso so should I just keep it higher? or alterntivily in these shooting situations should I just disable stabilization all together?

Is there anywhere I can learn this or should I keep just messing around with the camera, i only saw the shakey stabization after the fact on the pc and couldnt tell on the viewfinder so would like to avoid it in future, is there any tests i can do on the spot to know the most ideal ISO to use? Or should I just leave it on absolute max 100-12000 range which is the max?
Thanks

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTBxQXoWj3-VywPrKRQKT-6elSapQgGR9

I use Auto for all video. The camera knows better than me. If you are in the same boat I suggest you also use Auto.

Bigplumbs Posted at 11-26 09:39
I use Auto for all video. The camera knows better than me. If you are in the same boat I suggest you also use Auto.

I mean i am on auto, but it still gives option of ISO ranges to select from so question remains. Also for the EV setting on auto I see people use mostly 0.00 -> -1.00 EV depending on if they think could see overexposure in shot. Since my footage is in cloudy sunset i used 000

You can find a lot of tutorial/instructional videos on ISO usage on YouTube. I'd recommend watching a few (cuz there are literally thousands).

If it's really bright and sunny, yes, you can use Auto. But if you shoot during sunset or even in the evenings, I'd be careful with the Auto setting - depending on what you want to achieve.

For example, I'd definitely not recommend using Auto ISO if you want to do a Timelapse during sunset, where in the beginning of the video it's still bright (because the sun is still up), but later it gets dark and you see the city lights, etc (or whatever). For a timelapse like this, when I left it on Auto, the bright part (when the sun was still up) was fine, but when it changed into dark, the footage became extremely grainy as the camera cranked up the ISO to compensate for the darkness.

When I did the same timelapse using ISO 100-200, the footage was still very clean even when the scene changed to dark and you could only see taillights of cars, streetlights, lit buildings etc ,because the camera left the ISO between 100-200. But in such scenes you could set it to 100-400 or maybe even 100-800 depending on how much light will have around you after the sun goes down.

As already written. Automatic certainly not in low light conditions. There you also have to play with time, ISO max 800 - 3200 depending on how much noise you tolerate, turn off stabilization and if it's in motion, a gimbal is a must. On the contrary, under good to very bright conditions, if you want to achieve a cinema effect, you must also use ND filters to "simulate" ISO under 100 because of a time around 1/50..... The fastest way to watch tutorials, to understand the principle of connected containers ISO, time, aperture and try and try with a specific camera... because for example ISO 12800 with OA3 is like ISO 6400 with GP11, so it cannot be prescribed exactly...

Stabilization works best with faster shutterspeed.

Keep ISO as low as you can (when it doesn't show too dark on screen) and use rest on Auto.

How we go about this is
darker videos is ISO 100, brighter video is higher ISO,

brighter the iso, the more grain is being offered.

you may   youtube some vids on it.   hope that helps some

Hi there. Thanks for reaching out. We hope that you can get the best recommendations from your co-users who also have a first-hand experience with the Osmo Action 3. Thank you for your continued support.

Sensor size has a lot to do with what ISO you use. Filming outdoors in good light you will always achieve less noise and cleaner footage using you lowest ISO of 100, indoor it can be a balance using a shutter speed thats to slow to achieve ISO 100 can also introduce noise into your footage so a balance between both shutter speed and ISO can give more optimal footage. First try Auto and track the settings the camera uses and see if can improve manually remembering to also use your EV control to create good exposures. From my own experience over 400 ISO can show up a fair bit of noise on this sensor but if you need the footage then you will have to put up with it.

johansenfoto Posted at 11-26 11:39
Stabilization works best with faster shutterspeed.

Keep ISO as low as you can (when it doesn't show too dark on screen) and use rest on Auto.

ahh okay, and EV should I keep at 0.00 too?

Ev lower. as that will  make not just darker but will help with the smoothness  2-points

EpicTree Posted at 11-27 03:58
ahh okay, and EV should I keep at 0.00 too?

EV lower ONLY if you want details in sky if it is too bright, else just leave it.

That's what I think

If you want to maximize the footage in post and color-grade I strongly recommend shooting in -0.3EV and ISO 100~800 I've found that's a good sweet spot. Otherwise, shoot in Auto but I personally never really trust my camera's auto settings.

It really depends on what I’m videoing. If I have the time to prepare, then I go for the lowest iso I can get a good looking picture on the viewing screen. If I’m moving around, then I use ‘auto’ with an max/min of 100 to 800, and hope for a higher shutter speed in order to get good stabilisation.

The Action has a great screen so that can guide you a lot with regards to upping and downing EV.

Generally, if the overall scene is dark, the auto exposure tries to raise it (which isn’t great for low light stuff) and if it is very bright, the exposure brings it all down which also isn’t great.

So, dark nights can come out grey and grainy and snow scenes look grey and muddy.

The excellent screen on the Action would show this, but there isn’t one setting I run around with all of the time myself. You can’t always rely on ‘auto’ to get it right.

However, when you just want to run around with it, 'auto' mostly does a good job.

Always go with the lowest ISO possible for the lighting situation.
That is my rule of thumb.