you can approaches it and very carefully grab the drone , with one hand, from above, paying attention to the propellers
thus avoiding,to land on the ground when, as mentioned, we are over on unsuitable surfaces... dusty, sand, water, uneven ground.
Having said this short and quick introduction on the three different modes and assuming youhave already done enough simulator and practice in all three modes…
If you haven't already, I recommend you do, otherwise you're not flying true ACRO yet
If you have reached this level ... it means that you have SURELY seen the menu below
gives us the chance to customize a little the response that the drone will give us and therefore its reactivity or gradualness of movements in relation to the commands we send it through the movements of the joysticks on the remote control.
This is because each of us has our own flying style, but also different needs.
In fact if we want to try to do a little freestyle we will surely need a little more reactivity...
but if we want to shoot more cinematic videos perhaps it will be better to set the parameters in such a way as to obtain more gradual and smooth movements.
Each of us manages to articulate our hands better or worse of others ,
there are those who pilot using only the two thumbs and those who like to hold the joystick with two fingers …
all of this affects how we manage to move the joysticks
(with more or maybe less difficulty)
left and right or bottom to top.
therefore it can be useful to customize the parameters that are made available to us
The three parameters that we can set are:
- Central sensitivity - Maximum rate - Expo -
Respectively on the three movement axes of the drone
ROLL - PITCH - YAW
and then of the respective levers (joystick) of the radio control .
Usually I start from the standard parameters, i.e. those that we find already pre set by DJI
Then I'm going to change the value of the Max Rate column
This value represents the energy with which the command is transmitted from the remote control to the drone
Then the intensity of the commands on the respective reference axes of ROLL - PITCH - YAW will be amplified or attenuated
If we lower the value too much, the commands will be attenuated and even moving the stick all the way, the maximum power willnever be reached
Conversely, if we raise them too much (over 100%) small movements of the sticks will be enough to reach very high values, reaching 100% of the energy even without bringing the sticks to the end of their stroke
Note: Minimum value is zero – maximum 2000
Once you have found the right MAX RATE value, i.e. the value that best suits your flying style and the sensitivity of your fingers, you move on to the EXPO
The EXPOscontrol the starting attenuation, the initial smoothness of the stick response curve
With low values the movement of the drone will be more GRADUAL … smooth at the beginning (attack) and then it willgradually reach the set value
while with high values, the movement will attack immediately and continue in an almost linear way.
Also for the EXPOs
same like all the other values come would be set one at a time and gradually adapting them to our PERSONAL needs…
it goes without saying that in reality there is no one value that is good for everyone ...
but each of us will adapt the parameters to his personal style.
The last one I usually adjust, but not the least is the
Center Sensitivity
this value represents the radius from the central point of the stick within which the remote control will not send any command …
i.e. it represents a small area which I call the dead area…
It is used to compensate for small movement errors when we accidentally move the sticks slightly.
Errors that can occur for example when we have not grasped the remote control well and move our finger or maybe when we only have to go straight but we also tend to move to the right ... (pitch & roll)
or when we give gas and accidentally rotate the drone (throttle – yaw)
In short, even in this case, you will have to find your best setup
These are the parameters that I have set and with which I feel comfortable these days...
for a cinematic flight ... But I repeat ... do not take them as suitable parameters for everyone
Because the important thing is to understand and experiment until everyone finds his or hers
ALSO REMEMBER THAT BY SWITCHING FROM THE DIFFERENT FLIGHT MODES (NORMAL - SPORT - MANUAL) THESE VALUES WILL NOT CHANGE AND WE WILL THEREFORE
ALWAYS THE SAME ANSWERS FROM THE DRONE WITH RESPECT TO THE MOVEMENTS MADE ON THE REMOTE CONTROL
but once you understand the dynamics and have a little experience, they could better manage our flight and make it more kinematic or more dynamic and suitable for freestyle
If you've come this far, it's because you're a true enthusiast like me
So … perhaps these little TIPS could also be useful for improve your video shooting qualitywith AVATA
With AVATA if you love making videos, you will have noticed that we do not have the possibility to use the histogram to verify the correct exposure
We also need to be able to see (directly through the goggles) where we are flying our drone, especially when we go from very bright to dark environments.
So to try to always have a good exposure, I suggest you use this method.
First of all let's go to Camera settings and start entering these values
16:9 aspect ratio
4K/50fps video quality
(becouse on a 25fps timeline we will be able to make a small slowmotionswithout problems)
FOV Wide
EIS : (Electronic Image Stabilization) OFF
Wide FOV and EIS OFF so you can stabilize with Gyroflow
ISO limit : 1600 (more grains too much)
Grid I like to have the center and have the guidelines
Exposure Mode : Manual
ISO : Automatic
Shutter 1/100
(respect the 180 degree rule to have a better motion blur and thus increase the quality of our video)
EV:0
WB : Manual
(white balance 6500K but it should be evaluated from time to time depending on the light conditions ... even better to use a color tablet like X-RITE Color checker at the beginning of shooting to have a better color match with the other clips)
However, white balance is very important to get a good final color
Advanced shooting settings
I record with both in order to have an emergency copy on the goggles too…
prudence is never too much
Automatically register on take off…helps the distracted like me
D-Cinelike color
It offers quite a good dynamic range, especially now that we finally have 10bit and alsoduring the flight you can see the shadows better...
(but needs color work in post-production)
Sharpness -1
in order to slightly reduce the graininess when we go up with the ISO
Noise Reduction 0 … (that's fine with me but you can experiment)
Anti flicker Auto
Subtitles ON
Once you adjust these parameters...
We have to position the drone in such a way as to frame (look) what will be the brightest scene of our clip, of the video we plan to shoot.
If too bright we have to use ND filters
I use the original DJI ones but other brands are fine too, the important thing is that they are of good quality.
Then, with drone camera , look and frame the brightest scene, set SHUTTER to automatic and check the value that is as close as possible to 1/100
If the value is higher, for example 1/500 ... you put an ND filter with a higher value (for example you pass from ND8 to ND32) until you are satisfied with the exposure.
over time you will be able to easily understand which ND filter will be more suitable depending on the environmental conditions
Once the correct ND filter has been determined, apply it to the drone and re-set SHUTTER to manual with a value of 1/100
At this point you are ready to shoot your scene….
The drone will change the ISO by increasing them automatically when we pass in the shaded areas , without correcting the shutter speed (shutter) thus maintaining the right relationship with the set FPS .
NOTE: the ND filter, in addition to correcting the exposure, will also have a function of protecting the lens of our camera, thus avoiding scratching it.
Ok …
once you have set the RATES that best suit your style and the type of video shooting you need
Set the correct values for proper exposure and video ratio.
All you have to do is download the free video stabilization program
Gyroflow … ( FREE PROGRAM TO HAVE A REALLY GOOD QUALITY VIDEO SMOOTHLY STABILIZED )
Transfer your clips directly from the SD memory to the program which will immediately recognize the source video (DJI AVATA) automatically.
So it will immediately set the right values to stabilize our video clips well and fluidly , SMOOTH.
(I personally don't really like the auto zoom feature and I deselect it)
Again … play a little with this simple program
Maybe even watch a little tutorial on youtube and you'll see
that better results than the function can easily be obtained
of automatic stabilization ROCKSTEADY or Horizont present
already in the drone options.
If, on the other hand, you are not interested in this further step,
remember to select EIS in the mode you like best.
If you liked this little guide …
I'm AlexCarboni
You can follow me on my Facebook page Alex Carboni
Or Instagram
@alexcarboni_
As always I will try to stay available and I will continue to
share my little experiences …
I suggest you do the same... together we always grow better
"SACRED OR PROFANE"
Andy Warhol
my backstage of the work done with DJI Avata
indoors in the museum of Rome exhibition Andy Warhol -
"SACRED OR PROFANE"
this drone is amazing new updates made video files better editable 10bit improves a lot
the drone flies great
hope you will like it
Alex Carboni
Rome Italy VideoMaker museo
LA VACCHERIA
soundtrack - Artlistio
Captain
Core User of DJI
lvl.1
lvl.2
New
HORIZON)
