CloudVisual
Core User of DJI
Flight distance : 97545420 ft
United Kingdom
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Hallmark007 Posted at 1-19 18:35
The focus on a Mavic 3 is 1 metre to infinity and that’s auto fixed continuous . It’s not manual, there is manual focus which can be done on screen with a slider or tap to focus. I don’t think I’ve ever seen the camera hunting for focus, maybe if you get to close but I’ve not seen this. The focus to infinity is @ aperture f2.8 and while many say f5.6 is the aperture sweet spot, there is still acceptable sharpness at f9.
Again my question was regarding as you yourself said flying completing a 360 and still managing to keep correct exposure, you did say you completed this in one movement, my question how can you fly this manoeuvre and manage to change SS, Aperture etc and fly.
OK so let me explain that the camera's ability to focus is from 1m - Infinity. That's what it's capable of. The minimum focal distance and the maximum. However, if you focus to infinity and shoot at something above f5.6, everything from about 3M to infinity will be in focus with this M3 lens. If I want to shoot something closer, I'll need to adjust my focus, but as it's not something I usually film that close up, I don't have to. So therefore I do not need to change my focus whilst shooting, it's a manual fixed focus shot.
The Mavic 3 does not have AFC. I believe the last DJI drone to have it was the Phantom 4 Pro.
I have searched through the forums and I can neither find or recall me ever talking about filming a complete 360, please point me to my comment as you seem to remember it better than me. Anyway.. a 360 roating video isn't a normal shot for me to take because it's not cinematic and would take too long. Sure, I've done one in the past for a construction job, because the bar is low for what quality of footage they like. EVEN for that shot, I would fix the exposure and have the shot blow out when facing the sun, because believe it or not, when you look at the sun, it's really bright. So I'll just find a middle ground where 90% of that shot is slightly underexposed and then it'll not ruin the shot looking into the sun, which I can further correct in post by lifting the shadows and that'll not affect the 10% facing the sun.
All I have to stress to you is that I NEVER change my exposure, aperture, ISO during the middle of a take. If I film and the shot becomes under/over exposed, it's cut, that's it, the shot is over. Make the necessary changes to film the next shot and carry on with the new exposure settings and hit record.
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