I was planning to test-drive the drone outside on a hike tomorrow, after unsuccessful indoor flights led to crashes and propeller damage. I had bought replacement propellers. I have managed to unscrew all the old propellers except 3 that won't budge. I tried using 3-in-1 multi-purpose oil and WD-40, and/or a power drill, either or both of which have always worked before for similar situations involving stuck parts.
I attached photos of the drone with the propellers that are stuck due to the screws that won't budge, and a photo of the propellers that I was able to remove.
Would the remaining propellers cause issues if they are left on, if I otherwise put new propellers on the rest? If they would cause issues, how would you advise I proceed at this stage?

3 propeller screws stuck on DJI Mini 3 Pro

Have a look at this thread, post n2 it may help...

https://forum.dji.com/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=292487

It is necessary to replace the whole, the entire pair

The blade on the front motor would most definitely need changing, Not only are there chunks missing but, for balance, they are in the worst possible place, the outer end of the blade where they will cause the greatest 'centrifugal' imbalance possible.
Blades are weight matched pairs and if one blade on a motor is change its companion should be changed too, both new blades should be from the same new pack. I'd say the rear blades should also be changed.

You need a decent screwdriver, the one that comes with the drone isn't the best

Hi there. Thank you for reaching out and we're sorry for the incident that happened to your drone. You may consider sending the unit in for a proper diagnosis. You may submit a ticket case at https://repair.dji.com/repair/index  . Also, the warranty can be applied depending on the outcome of the damage assessment including the warranty period of your unit. Thank you for your understanding and support.

Burt37 Posted at 6-18 15:47
Have a look at this thread, post n2 it may help...

https://forum.dji.com/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=292487

I was just going to suggest check out my post from last week, well done.

It's a tricky and fiddly thing to do, but it worked without causing any damage.

Cheers

Those little screws have some glue on them, use a better screwdriver. The DJI one is very convenient, but it´s far to be a good one.

You should always change the propellers in pairs, not one at at time.

If the soft orange rubber is tamaged, it would cause some vibrations.

The DJI-supplied screwdriver is unfortunately of terribly inferior quality and not up to the job, especially with the factory loctite on the screw tips.  I caught the Wowstick 1F+ on sale and use it without issue.  I've since thrown the DJI supplied screwdriver into the trash bin.  

For the Mini 3 Pro, I read that DJI recommends a PH0 screwdriver.  

A high quality PH0 screwdriver is in the link below.

https://www.wihatools.com/produc ... ampaign=sag_organic

Oh, another way is to heat up the screwdriver, till its quite hot, then put it on the screw and wait a moment or two for the screw to heat up and inturn soften the tread loc stuff..

There were 3 props left.

The Wera screwdriver either helped get 1 off, or it was already loosened from the oil and WD40 applied earlier.

The other 2 still wouldn't budge. I cut off the bulk of the props using scissors so they wouldn't get in the way. I tried a screw extractor set, but it did nothing.

I figured using the hammer + screwdriver trick could damage other components of the drone.

So I decided to go the exacto + plier root. But I don't see how the remainder of the props can be effectively cut, based on how close they sit to the drone, the angles required for cutting, and the prop material being quite thick for the knife. Earlier, the scissors actually seemed much more effective for cutting the bulk of the props off than the knife, but obviously scissors are not an option for the prop remainders.

Thanks for any suggestions on this.

you could cut the rounded ridge off with a dremel and then use pliers or vise grips on the screw head to get it out

Andre Laf Posted at 6-24 17:01
you could cut the rounded ridge off with a dremel and then use pliers or vise grips on the screw head to get it out

Now used these:

Klein D275-5 precision flush cutter:
It slowly flaked away at the remaining prop plastic, otherwise didn't do much else. I aimed for the head but inconvenient angles and/or lackluster function seemed to prevent precise cuts.

Dremel 4300 5/40 with metal cutting wheel, with a plier to hold the gray motor bits in place:
It slowly eroded the remaining prop plastic but after a few minutes seemed to reached a standstill; didn't notice further erosion. 5,000-15,000 RPM.

Used pliers throughout to turn and yank at the screws.

I'd be sending it to DJI as a next step.

I would have cut the plastic away from the top ridge towards the screw ,then you could have been able to grip the screw head better and remove . There is no way the screws are that tight that they can not be removed ,they would have to be welded .

What a huge waste of time... All you needed to do was get a pair of these and just grab the first 2-3mm of the blade crushing the plastic against the edge of the screw head... Both the blade and the screw are already screwed, so it doesn't matter. The important thing is not to damage the blade holder and screw retainer... It is a 10 seconds job!

Why you guys always overcomplicate things so much.... Did you even ever read the link? Sean gave you the solution, but you need to read it...

PS

Use the quick grip from the top not from the side, otherwise you are grabbing too much material...

In reply to the last two posters, I tried both of those already.

Like I said, for a few reasons, could not get enough plastic off the top to expose enough of the screw head to do anything else.

Also, based on the thread Sean linked to, it took the person 3+ hours, not 10 minutes... I don't currently have the time to try that for 3+ hours to see if it works for me or not.

cmhawke Posted at 6-26 18:05
In reply to the last two posters, I tried both of those already.

Like I said, for a few reasons, could not get enough plastic off the top to expose enough of the screw head to do anything else.

You don't need to take the plastic off...

You crush the plastic with the grip while also grabbing the edge of the screw... You do know how quick grip do work?

You probably are right... It is less than 10 second...

I'm only talking about Sean suggestion of using the Quick Grip pliers... That is what I normally do. I only use the screw driver to put the new blades back on...

but Burt is correct I would have just used the vice grips from the top straight down or from the side  and tighten until it grips the screw head, then hold the motor with other hand and unscrew the screw take a minute at the most.

I had used a grip around the side, crushing and rotating but it wouldn't turn. Hadn't tried top-down angle. I'm going on a trip for a few weeks and will have another look when I return.

cmhawke Posted at 6-25 21:03
Now used these:

Klein D275-5 precision flush cutter:

Do what I did and what's recommended earlier in the thread when I had the same problem.

Shave bits off the plastic stalk around the screw with a Stanley knife until you can grip the screw and crush it together, shave squeeze, shave squeeze. Once you've done enough you should be able to grip the screw (I used small wire cutters) and slowly turn it out bit by bit

That's what I did with mine, the Phillips screw thread had turned totally round and it wasn't budging.

Do a test flight first once the two new props are on, and another big tip which you've already learned - DON'T FLY INDOORS - you are asking for trouble and breakages.

Blackbuckone Posted at 6-27 16:25
Do what I did and what's recommended earlier in the thread when I had the same problem.

Shave bits off the plastic stalk around the screw with a Stanley knife until you can grip the screw and crush it together, shave squeeze, shave squeeze. Once you've done enough you should be able to grip the screw (I used small wire cutters) and slowly turn it out bit by bit

I tried a few Stanley and exacto knives and none were very effective against the robust plastic. Also difficulty in the precision required to shave off the top of that blip. But I will continue looking into this after my trip.

I think there is a 'risk' that if you crush too far down the blade's hub you will make the hub grip the boss that projects from the top of the motor, any crushing of the blade's hub should be limited to that bit that of the hub that surround JUST the head of the screw.

Sean-bumble-bee Posted at 6-27 19:26
I think there is a 'risk' that if you crush too far down the blade's hub you will make the hub grip the boss that projects from the top of the motor, any crushing of the blade's hub should be limited to that bit that of the hub that surround JUST the head of the screw.

Correct...

If you go too far down from the top, you are just making it harder for yourself...

The quick grip has so much more torque than the little screw driver. It really doesn't take much to lose the screw but you need to crush the plastic, as in, put some preload on the quick grip... Lots of people don't know how to use them. It should be hard to close the grip, but not too hard...

Another option is to start the screw with the quick grip and then complete the removal with the screw driver... That's what I normally do and it does takes around 10 seconds to remove the screw (that you get spares with the new blades anyway)

DroneApe Posted at 6-19 13:38
For the Mini 3 Pro, I read that DJI recommends a PH0 screwdriver.  

A high quality PH0 screwdriver is in the link below.

Thank you for your advice)) I just threw $20 into the wind. This screwdriver does not fit. Need PH00. And it is better not to advise until you try it yourself.

bobmalkh Posted at 7-4 04:21
Thank you for your advice)) I just threw $20 into the wind. This screwdriver does not fit. Need PH00. And it is better not to advise until you try it yourself.

It may not even be Phillips, have a look at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives

Sean-bumble-bee Posted at 7-4 04:34
It may not even be Phillips, have a look at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives

I ordered another "00", as soon as I receive it, write what and how
Thank you

Sean-bumble-bee Posted at 7-4 04:34
It may not even be Phillips, have a look at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives

Here's the thread where DJI recommends the PH0 for the Mini 3 Pro.    I was going to reply to his snarky comment, but my New Year's resolution was "don't go there".  lol

https://forum.dji.com/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=285090

PH00 and PH000 both fit, had this topic with IANinLondon recently. He took the PH00 and suggested it in one of its videos, I read PH000 somewhere and used this successfuly.
For the future: IF a proper fit screwdriver with sufficient force down while trying does not help, I would suggest using a heat gun carefully set to max. 70 degrees celsius and heat up the aluminium to weaken the screw lock varnish. Sadly if I would be in your position I would consider sending the Mini 3 to DJI for repair. New motor.

The WIHA PH00 screwdriver fit perfectly. Once again I was convinced that the standards are different. Until you experience it for yourself. Now I have checked and can recommend this firm

Come on DJI, no one should have to use mole grips, Stanley knives, heat guns, Dremel cutting disks, or return for service just to remove props.  Are you doing anything to address this please?  It could be as simple as a different screw supplied with new props.

I haven't needed to replace any props yet, but I prob will in the future. I can see from everyone else that the screws are too soft (faulty manufacture), and that's reason for a recall in this case.
What I'd like to know is : If my drone is out of warranty and I need to send it in for a stuck screw, who's going to pay for it ?

Lieutenant Posted at 7-6 01:03
I haven't needed to replace any props yet, but I prob will in the future. I can see from everyone else that the screws are too soft (faulty manufacture), and that's reason for a recall in this case.
What I'd like to know is : If my drone is out of warranty and I need to send it in for a stuck screw, who's going to pay for it ?

really interesting question ;)
admin, what do they say in the office of DJI?

Lieutenant Posted at 7-6 01:03
I haven't needed to replace any props yet, but I prob will in the future. I can see from everyone else that the screws are too soft (faulty manufacture), and that's reason for a recall in this case.
What I'd like to know is : If my drone is out of warranty and I need to send it in for a stuck screw, who's going to pay for it ?

That's a bit of a turn around from this other yours previous post:

"I bought a PH000 screwdriver and it was way too small.
I then bought a quality PH00 screwdriver and it fits perfectly.
I haven't actually needed to remove any propellers yet so I hope it works as it should, but the lesson here is buy quality tools to get the job done."

And you are right. With the proper Ph00 and the understanding of what you are doing, like holding the screwdriver perfectly perpendicular to the screw, put enough force, so the tip doesn't jump out and a basic mechanical understanding of how a metal, teflon coated, tiny screw works, it has never been a problem.. But I wouldn't use this thread as a measuring tool for how hard or easy it is to remove a screw..

In the DJI office I would say they are on the floor laughing out loud...

If Henry Phillips could read this thread, he would probably cry....

Burt37 Posted at 7-6 03:41
That's a bit of a turn around from this other yours previous post:

"I bought a PH000 screwdriver and it was way too small.

yeah, it would be funny if it wasn't so sad...))

@burt37
'With the proper Ph00 and the understanding of what you are doing, like holding the screwdriver perfectly perpendicular to the screw, put enough force, so the tip doesn't jump out'


That is very important. The screwdrivers tip has to match the screw, it should feel like a tight fit if it slips in and you have to hold it perpendicular and issue a pressure down into the screw while you carefully try to loosen the screw. There are many catches in that. Especially philipps screws are a bit challenging if it comes to rather weak materials and hard-to-move threads. If the screwdriver slips over only one time, in most cases you have lost the screw then.

Lieutenant Posted at 7-6 01:03
I haven't needed to replace any props yet, but I prob will in the future. I can see from everyone else that the screws are too soft (faulty manufacture), and that's reason for a recall in this case.
What I'd like to know is : If my drone is out of warranty and I need to send it in for a stuck screw, who's going to pay for it ?

Rather than a recall, I think a better idea would be for DJI to publish the cross-slot's type and size !

Did you manage to resolve it?

Sean-bumble-bee Posted at 7-6 07:03
Rather than a recall, I think a better idea would be for DJI to publish the cross-slot's type and size !

And perhaps letting the customer know that even if it is a very simple operation, because of the size of the screw, it can be easily damaged if the tool is improperly used while trying to remove the screw...

bobmalkh Posted at 7-6 05:29
yeah, it would be funny if it wasn't so sad...))

You are 100% correct. There is no better way to describe it...