Hi Alex, I shoot on GH4 with my Ronin-M too. I shoot on a 12mm Samyang and 25mm Voigtlander. When shooting on the 12mm, the up and down movement is not as noticeable, but it is something I can see more of on the 25mm. Two thing that help are:
1. Trying to walk as much as possible like I would with a glidecam or how I see steadicam opps walk (kind of like you're running with a glass of water trying not to spill and keeping the feet moving very close to the ground)
2. Re-calibrating and re-balancing the gimbal for each lens. Since I shoot primarily on the 12mm and 25mm, I have spent time finding my sweet spots. I have written down respective settings and balance points for each lens to make switching in/out as efficient as possible. This helps the keep the workload on the motors as small as possible, something I think helps keep the movements smooth.
Using these things is definitely art, but there still these are just a few small tips that help make your make your job as easy as possible (and hopefully don't let the tool get too in the way of shots Cheers -George
Here's a recent video I shot with my 12mm and a GH3 >>
Trying to walk as smoothly as possible definitely helps, yes. Specially just trying to walk. I am no having problems with pan or slides. I have a 12 mm Leica aswell and the 25 mm. the 12 mm does indeed compensate a lot of movement. Specially shooting on 50 FPS helps.
So far I have been shooting on default seetings. Have not yet experienced any other smoothing/deadend etc settings. Could you share your settings for the 12 and 25 mm lenses as we are kind of shooting on same lenses. That might help me a lot!
I do recalibrate a lot and it works fine then. Sometimes I've notice a slide tilt to left or right which can just be fixed with recalibration. The lastest firmware is said to fix. But when i read in the forum here about the latest firmware many many people complain about problems after it. DJI def. has to fix that. You running firmware 3.0, latest without problems?
Can you share your settings of ronin-m app for that?
Hi Alex, I haven't updated to the latest firmware as I too have seen a lot of the comments saying it's still a bit buggy. I am running on the firmware release from 6/15 (I think it's IMU 1.2). One thing I have seen with the auto-tune feature is that often times after the auto-tune happens, all the smooth tracks options are turned off, something I make sure to double check after I auto-tune.
Here are the settings I had when I shot that Parkour video (taken from my iPhone App). Thanks for the kind remarks. -George
Pan Axis Stiffness / Pan Axis Trim = 55 / 0
Tilt Axis Stiffness / Tilt Axis Trim = 40 / 0
Roll Axis Stiffness / Roll Axis Trim = 48 / 0
Pan SmoothTrack = ON
Tilt SmoothTrack = ON
Roll SmoothTrack = ON
Thanks DDVideo - happy it helped! I've actually gone back to these settings for reference after updating firmware and changing camera bodies. Happy shooting! -George
A quick question, do you still run on IMU 1.2 or have yo ...
Thanks Paul! I am not on the latest firmware. I'm hoping it gets properly fixed soon though as I do experience a bit of drifting most noticeably on my roll axis and a little on my tilt axis.
I've found that the drift can usually be remedied through moving the camera dramatically in the opposite direction of where the tilt is happening (sometimes while also changing the height of unit in space). Or, if I can't get that to work, I'll use the Test Roll Axis or Test Pan Axis option in the app. If my pan axis is off I've also used the remote control to reset it.
Do you have any experiences like this? Many thanks -George
George Mihaly Posted at 2015-9-23 23:23
Thanks DDVideo - happy it helped! I've actually gone back to these settings for reference after up ...
Great video George! How did you deal with setting focus in this video where you had athletes running towards and away? I'm new to these gimbals and having trouble getting focus right. GH4 auto-focus is terrible even with a subject moving at slow pace. Any tips would be appreciated.
Thanks sunsurf - for focus, I tried as best as I could to maintain the same distance between myself and the subject. However, what made the biggest difference was the fact that as it was super bright outside, I used an 8-stop ND filter on my lens and shot at somewhere around F12 (I don't remember and the lens is not active so the information does not come back in xif form). At F12, I had a very large range of focus and the lens, Samyang 12mm F2, did a nice job helping maintain an overall sharp image. Hope that helps -George
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Cheers -George