wondering if anyone else has noticed a white balance issue with the mavic 3 pro? with the mavic 3, auto white balance was spot on for me, i didnt haven't to adjust manually in 95% of shoots, but the mavic 3 pro (even though it's the same camera), auto white balance leaves me with a purple tinge in photos and footage, and a bit too warm. i'm full on manual now, but wondering if anyone else has experienced this difference between m3 and m3p?

Shoot in manual and your WB will be correct 100% of the time.

Don't let a computer decide what WB is correct or leave yourself with a WB you don't know the temperature to struggle to correct in post.

White balance goes from blue to red. The purple is the crappy colour science that DJI uses.

Hello there. Thank you for reaching out. Can you please show us a sample photo for further checking? We appreciate your patience.

purple tinges are typically chromatic aberrations which wouldn't have anything to do with white balance. Can't say that's the case here but that's the normal diagnosis when purple tinges are mentioned. I rarely shoot Auto white balance but have had no problems when I do. I shoot DLog M and keyframe and dramatic white balance changes as I wish but admit Auto does a decent job most of the time.

digibud Posted at 9-20 10:55
purple tinges are typically chromatic aberrations which wouldn't have anything to do with white balance. Can't say that's the case here but that's the normal diagnosis when purple tinges are mentioned. I rarely shoot Auto white balance but have had no problems when I do. I shoot DLog M and keyframe and dramatic white balance changes as I wish but admit Auto does a decent job most of the time.

Re.: White balance.
I´ve been experimenting with black, white and grey (18%) white-balance cards on placed on top of a RELATIVELY neutral grey cloth. Hovering directly above and using auto to set WB and then switching to manual to keep it at that setting makes life much easier in d-log Resolve post-production. I want neutral, natural and CORRECT colours as a basis. And it works quite well. THEN changes can be made e.g. with LUTS etc.
BTW - where do I ask a question about using d-log with Quickshots and then finding the clip is not readable in Resolve (but IS in VLC) - unless first converted at the same settings using Handbrake?

Hah!  I like the grey card idea (but too much work for me).  I have a grey card in my camera bag but shooting RAW fairly obviates the need as does shooting  D Log.  If you have a cloud in your sky most NLE's have an easy White Balance mode that will work well in some Auto mode or allow you to click on something white but I'll give it to you, a grey card will do it. The issue with a grey card and a flying camera is the white balance may change as you fly along and suddenly find yourself under cloud cover and whoops!, the WB has now changed.  That's when Auto can actually be handy and it does a pretty decent job but I rarely use it, preferring to Keyframe those changes.  Post another question about Quickshots and resolve here or maybe even on some Resolve forum. I'm a Final Cut Pro guy and don't use Quickshots so I'm once again useless .

digibud Posted at 9-21 02:29
Hah!  I like the grey card idea (but too much work for me).  I have a grey card in my camera bag but shooting RAW fairly obviates the need as does shooting  D Log.  If you have a cloud in your sky most NLE's have an easy White Balance mode that will work well in some Auto mode or allow you to click on something white but I'll give it to you, a grey card will do it. The issue with a grey card and a flying camera is the white balance may change as you fly along and suddenly find yourself under cloud cover and whoops!, the WB has now changed.  That's when Auto can actually be handy and it does a pretty decent job but I rarely use it, preferring to Keyframe those changes.  Post another question about Quickshots and resolve here or maybe even on some Resolve forum. I'm a Final Cut Pro guy and don't use Quickshots so I'm once again useless .

Not much to discuss regarding shooting RAW, I agree. Don´t need the grey card. As long as you find something in the image that approximates 18% grey. I do it often when shooting portraits. BUT - if you want to be SURE, and have a potentially difficult/unknowledgable client/subject, then you need a frame with the grey card in it. Assuming that a neutral, correct image is wanted for some reason.
With video I see things differently. For me auto WB is a NOGO as, as you mentioned, the WB can change. And it does, whether the lighting/cloud  situation has changed or not. I don´t want the WB setting to change everytime there are more shadows in the field of view, or more sky/less green grass, or some other dominating colour. Then things look odd with auto WB. And if clouds do come up, which happened just a couple of days ago, you´ve got both WB AND exposure to deal with anyway.
I´m going to look into using keyframes, not something i´ve done yet - thanks.
Quickshots are an easy way to make something interesting out of almost nothing. Much like using a very wide-angle lens, or even fish-eye. Gets tiring very quickly, to be sure. But if the client isn´t tired of it yet, why not? I guess I see them (QSs) also as a way of testing what the M3C will do when that mode is active. For instance I realized that allowing auto exposure gives more irritating results than a fixed, middle exposure value, despite the large differences in exp.
Thanks for the reply!

Bill Lorenz Posted at 9-21 04:42
Not much to discuss regarding shooting RAW, I agree. Don´t need the grey card. As long as you find something in the image that approximates 18% grey. I do it often when shooting portraits. BUT - if you want to be SURE, and have a potentially difficult/unknowledgable client/subject, then you need a frame with the grey card in it. Assuming that a neutral, correct image is wanted for some reason.
With video I see things differently. For me auto WB is a NOGO as, as you mentioned, the WB can change. And it does, whether the lighting/cloud  situation has changed or not. I don´t want the WB setting to change everytime there are more shadows in the field of view, or more sky/less green grass, or some other dominating colour. Then things look odd with auto WB. And if clouds do come up, which happened just a couple of days ago, you´ve got both WB AND exposure to deal with anyway.
I´m going to look into using keyframes, not something i´ve done yet - thanks.

Agreed.  The one place that auto exposure is really useful is when you anticipate going from very bright to darker scenes. Not the same as auto white balance but I usually shoot fully manual and have found there is no way (that I know) to gracefully adjust exposure  while filming with a DJI drone. Best I've found is to set aperture and shutter to manual and assuming you have ISO 100 at that point, let the camera adjust the ISO automatically. When the drone adjust ISO it does it in smaller increments than can be done manually. Dunno why they don't allow us to set ISO in smaller increments...

digibud Posted at 9-22 12:05
Agreed.  The one place that auto exposure is really useful is when you anticipate going from very bright to darker scenes. Not the same as auto white balance but I usually shoot fully manual and have found there is no way (that I know) to gracefully adjust exposure  while filming with a DJI drone. Best I've found is to set aperture and shutter to manual and assuming you have ISO 100 at that point, let the camera adjust the ISO automatically. When the drone adjust ISO it does it in smaller increments than can be done manually. Dunno why they don't allow us to set ISO in smaller increments...

BTW - yesterday and today I did more testing - completey overcast day, no sun and standard setup (grey cloth, blk/grey/white cards placed on top), filling the frame. Auto WB would have set it at 5800K both days. My Gossen light/colour meter indicated 6400K yesterday and 6700K today. The clips at on auto 5800K were a bit blue, especially after the Resolve d-log colour space transformation. The shots at 6500K, and today at 6700K, were pretty much spot on, before and after the R CST. Could it be that under sompletely overcast conditions the auto WB sets it too warm? Anybody have similar experiences?

Bill Lorenz Posted at 9-24 02:21
BTW - yesterday and today I did more testing - completey overcast day, no sun and standard setup (grey cloth, blk/grey/white cards placed on top), filling the frame. Auto WB would have set it at 5800K both days. My Gossen light/colour meter indicated 6400K yesterday and 6700K today. The clips at on auto 5800K were a bit blue, especially after the Resolve d-log colour space transformation. The shots at 6500K, and today at 6700K, were pretty much spot on, before and after the R CST. Could it be that under sompletely overcast conditions the auto WB sets it too warm? Anybody have similar experiences?

Could it be that under completely overcast conditions the auto WB sets it too warm? Anybody have similar experiences?
I had a Phantom with unreliable auto WB.
Most of the time it was OK, but sometimes it would go way off.
I used to set WB manually with that drone to get around it, but auto WB has been fine on all my others, before and since.

Yours might be a one-off issue or perhaps your drone's auto WB just doesn't work properly.
Test some more in a variety of conditions to see.