With the Mavic 3, choosing an ND filter was not an issue in fact, I used a 16 ND filter 90 percent of the time and it was basically good for anytime of the day.

However, I can't tell you how many times I've over exposed footage on the I3 with a 16 ND or 4 stop filter or just as bad, ruining my footage because the ND filter is too dark, especially on overcast days but it's those partly cloudy days with the bright sun shining through.  How have you been able to navigate this?  

I want my beautiful beaches with bright blue colors and a bright blue sky to appear without completing blowing out my footage.  It was so easy to do this on a mavic 3 but I'm having a real difficult time trying to maintain bright vibrant colors without making it too dull with a 5 stop ND filter

Although it's not perfect I use a Sekonic light meter to do a best rough guess at what I'll need before I get airborne. It usually gets me pretty close first time.  It's not the same as being airborne and looking exactly at your subject but it's a pretty good start.

FlyingHigh007 Posted at 10-24 18:44
Although it's not perfect I use a Sekonic light meter to do a best rough guess at what I'll need before I get airborne. It usually gets me pretty close first time.  It's not the same as being airborne and looking exactly at your subject but it's a pretty good start.

The issue I have is when you shoot with prores raw with rec709 displaying on the controller screen, you have no idea what the picture really looks like until you start editing it on the computer.

So I'm seeing a really nice picture on the controller screen of bright blue water but when I get home, the footage is either blown out with orange humans and ugly green colored overexposed water or it's so dark from the ND filter that it's no longer pleasing to look at.

Josephsmith Posted at 10-24 18:50
The issue I have is when you shoot with prores raw with rec709 displaying on the controller screen, you have no idea what the picture really looks like until you start editing it on the computer.

So I'm seeing a really nice picture on the controller screen of bright blue water but when I get home, the footage is either blown out with orange humans and ugly green colored overexposed water or it's so dark from the ND filter that it's no longer pleasing to look at.

Hmm. That seems weird. The display feed is just the DLOG passed through a LUT. Are you using a LUT in post that's blowing it out and changing the white balance?

I am using 'Urth' filters, using ProRes RAW editing in Davinci. These filters are the result of aa little trial and error and a heap of research. They are a little expensive, but urth it! (That was bad, right?)

826 Raw Posted at 10-25 05:42
I am using 'Urth' filters, using ProRes RAW editing in Davinci. These filters are the result of aa little trial and error and a heap of research. They are a little expensive, but urth it! (That was bad, right?)

LOL. I use ProMaster HGX Primes IRND's. I like to make sure that the IR is filtered as I up the ND level. Also how are you converting the ProRes Raw to go into resolve? Is that process flattening the raw processing or are you converting to Cinema DNG?

I use the Final Cut Pro compressor, which has a flat cost opposed to RAWConvertor (which charges per camera!), but does give a little more refined detail. I always shoot in ProRes Raw for file sizes

FlyingHigh007 Posted at 10-24 20:37
Hmm. That seems weird. The display feed is just the DLOG passed through a LUT. Are you using a LUT in post that's blowing it out and changing the white balance?

I'm sorry, by now I've discovered that all of my issues with the camera have to do with shooting in ProResRaw 60 fps.  These problems don't even exist when you're shooting in ProRes 422 HQ