Serg SSA
Core User of DJI
Flight distance : 13283327 ft
Russia
Offline
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I'll tell you my experience.
1. About the “quality” of filters
Two parameters can affect the quality - reducing the resolution and introducing a color cast.
The reduction in resolution depends mainly on the glass used, all glasses are the same, and so is the resolution.
Now about the color tint, it may be present, especially on high-density filters, depending on the coating material and the nuances of the protective and antireflective coating technology (if any))
So, I have both freevel and another cheap Chinese one, I don’t notice any difference in the video in terms of spurious coloring. It may be there, but I don’t notice) I have a color checker, in principle I can take two photos with different filters and use the color checker to determine the shade of the filter, but there was no such need, everything is fine as is.
2. About using filters
This is a special conversation)
It has long been noted in other topics that all beginners consider it their duty to first buy ND filters, thinking that this will improve their home video)
What practice shows is that filters are needed in SOME cases and only for those who understand how and why to use them.
It’s stupid to buy a whole set of filters because it’s not a camera, the drone has flown away and you won’t be able to correct the exposure by replacing the filter
to obtain shutter speed in accordance with the rule - 1\x2 frame rate. This applies in particular to the mini 4 because it has a camera without aperture adjustment. For example, on Mavic 2 you can adjust the exposure in flight by closing/opening the aperture, and on Mini 4 only by changing the filter)
Or another way is to immediately install a filter with a density higher than necessary (for example, ND64), set shutter speed priority in manual mode and set the ISO to auto, and then the camera itself will maintain the correct exposure due to the ISO, but you need to be prepared that the ISO will jump up to 800 even on a sunny day and thereby add noise.
There is another way - just shoot everything with a filter in the "auto" mode, and you need to forget about the rule of 1\x2 frame rate, it will not be respected, but the shutter speed will be long enough and there will be some blur. Actually, it’s for the sake of lubrication that they install filters)
One more thing, blurring the video leads to the fact that the detail or resolution of the frames is lost and the video will no longer resemble the 4k in which it seemed to be filmed)
3. About the differences between expensive and cheap filters
Two parameters - resolution and color tone
The resolution doesn’t differ at all, even if it’s tiny and someone finds it in the photo, then in the video, due to that same cinematic “blur” that everyone wants to get, everything will be equally blurred)
The tint that filters add can be easily adjusted in the editor by white balance (almost always). But we want to get a movie picture, right? Then the video must also be subjected to additional color grading, i.e. toning which will completely destroy the tiny difference if there is one in the filter tone.
4. About shooting without a filter
ND filters are used, as already mentioned, to eliminate strobe (in video) and to obtain cinematic blur (for photos and videos).
So, the strobe can be removed without filters, filming at a frame rate of 50-60 fps, or if you shot 25-30, then in the editor you can display the final video with a frequency higher than what was filmed, the same 50-60 fps (but in the editor you need set the option for completing the missing frame, for example Optical flow in Davinci)
In the editor, you can also add a blur that simulates a long exposure. It may be a little different from real smear, but in many cases it imitates it well. This is not suitable for long exposures in photography; here you cannot do without a filter.
5. When a filter will help
In principle, to shoot video in all possible cases, you can put the filter on permanently and leave it on for daytime shooting. For the mini 4, taking into account its high-aperture camera, you need a filter of at least ND32-64 and set the remaining parameters to auto.
A filter will be needed if you shoot objects in the foreground, especially when flying sideways along the object - there will be a strobe without a filter.
A filter is needed when panning (shooting while rotating around an axis), you need to shoot very slowly and with a long shutter speed, this is where the filter will help.
A filter is needed when flying, for example, low above the ground, so that it is blurred in the foreground, otherwise there will be an unpleasant strobe even at 60 fps.
A filter is needed for hyperlapses.
I hope I made it clear. |
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