Hello.  I'm a novice moto-vlogger.  I had been using a couple of GoPro Hero 10s for years and I was pleased with the quality but the reliability was terrible.  I should note that I have never used post-production video editing.  Just used GoPro presets.   I decided to try an Insta Ace Pro.  Their auto presents generated some great footage but it had some other stuff that made me return it within the return period.  
I've now been trying the Osmo Action 4 and I pair it with the DJI Wireless Mic 2.  The reliability is great. Pairing with the wireless mic has been working great.  But I've been really underwhelmed with the video quality.  I've watched hours of different videos and I guess I'm stuck.   I'm trying to avoid having to use D-lock and learning how to edit, especially when the other cameras were really good out of the box with their auto-presets.

I've played around with changing sharpness to -2, -1, -0, +1 and same playing around with noise levels.  I think -1 or -2 on sharpness "might" look the best, but there are times I think 0 or +1 may be good.  In all cases, I would not say I'm really blown away by the colors.  They don't seem warm to me.  They seem flat and not very clear on some things.  For example, the grass and the sky look great on the other two cameras, but with the Osmo to me they always just seem flat/bland.

I've left everything else pretty much in auto mode.  I record in 4k/30 most of the time, Rocksteady on when I'm on the motorcycle.  

I'm wondering for white balance or maybe anything else, even though I'm using "auto" should I manually select something for white balance but still leave it in auto?  I've gotten confused because I thought "auto" would mean just that, but then some videos seem to suggest you use auto but also limit things like the white balance and maybe shutter speed (but it's still in auto in that range?).  

Sorry for a long post.  Just trying to figure out the best way forward especialy if I don't want to have to do a bunch of post editing. Thanks for reading.

Hi RamblinMan. Since it is a fixed aperture action cam, it does have its own set of limitations and things like dynamic range and colour depth might not always be to your liking. It’s for that reason you really might need to get into editing in order to tweak things in post a little.

Can you see what is wrong with the video quality or is it just an underwhelming picture?

To give you an idea of what I do as a basis for each shot …..

a) I look at the overall brightness of each clip and tweak the gamma. (This is the brightness of the mid tones) It changes the overall brightness of the image without hitting the highs and lows as much. I do watch the highs carefully though and try not to blow them out.
b) I have an hdr gamma which affects only the lows. On many editors, it’s just called lows. I adjust the dark areas and watch carefully in the darkest bits until things might ‘just’ show.
c) If the picture looks flat, I might tweak the contrast.
d) Adjust colour depth.

That’s it. If I have taken a series of shots in the same light, I just copy and past the effects over. I avoid using histograms and graphs because that takes a lot of time!

The thing is, to get the best out of action cams, I think editing (to a minimal degree) is needed because the camera just won’t capture every lighting condition well and you need to compensate.

Same for audio. Sound straight from the mic is often bland and low in volume. Needs a little tweak.
Although you might have been happy with GoPro footage out of the camera, I bet there are shots that might be over/under exposed or too contrasty but you let them go by because they were within your acceptance level. With a little tweaking, you can get almost every shot looking good and camera becomes less important.

Having said that, it is good practice to get the exposure as right as possible in camera in the first instance, so less needs to be done. I normally fix the white balance to 56K or so. That way, the white balance won't wander. For vlogging, quick stuff, I stick to auto. It's generally very reliable.

I've just come back to the UK from Florida where I shot 4x256gB of footage. Honestly, in auto, it pretty much all came out as useable footage. I also learned that lighting in Florida is very pretty in terms of colour. Nothing like the UK. So your footage relies very heaviliy on lighting too which is why editing can help get you out of a fix. Here's some of what I got from the Action 4 after editing.....

I will start with saying; congrats on getting a great camera and that is from a motovlogger myself (atv vlogger) that have owned mulitple gopro's and insta360 ONE R and ONE RS before.
The main reason I use OA4 now is because batterylife, color science and the that you can actually trust it will record without freezing up etc.
OA4 and Insta360 have similar color science, gopro have actually wrong color science making colors and scenery too warm so red seems to be closer to orange and green leaves are closer to yellowish.
OA4 have more close to real-life colors and yes they are not over saturated since they show how most people actually see the colors. In sunlight they are bright with good contrast, but it overcast they can be a bit more dull. I shoot in color mode during summer and as a motovlogger I can recommend shooting in 60 fps for more realistic videos.
About sharpness and noise reduction, from my own tests you need more sharpness with motion, and less when standing still or slow movement. So -1 or 0 at sharpness is what I have been switching between.
Noise reduction I always used -2 since noise is better than blur, but you could always use a bit noise reduction if there will be a lot of dark shadows etc. But it's more for a taste and our viewers only care about content and good sound.
About sound so is there plenty of options to choose from, if you watch Andreas Dück on youtube, he have tested it all and will show you the best solution. He's also here on the forum.

Do you have any example videos where you are not pleased?

Editing dlog doesn’t have to hard DJI offer a standard LUT on the downloads page that can be applied to your footage but video output will be subjective based on frame rate, exposure, FOV etc.  The only issue I had initially had was flickering due to stabilisation & frame rate, once sorted can’t say I have had an issue with output but it’s not & never will be a full frame low light beast.  Action cameras are a game of compromise in one way or another but getting better.

https://www.dji.com/uk/downloads ... o-rec-709-vivid-lut

Iancraig10 Posted at 8-13 23:14
Hi RamblinMan. Since it is a fixed aperture action cam, it does have its own set of limitations and things like dynamic range and colour depth might not always be to your liking. It’s for that reason you really might need to get into editing in order to tweak things in post a little.

Can you see what is wrong with the video quality or is it just an underwhelming picture?

Really appreciate the detailed response.  I've saved it and will keep experimenting.  

As a novice, I did find the footage I created with the GoPro and the Ace Pro to be fine on auto.  There were also various pre-sets to change the color tones and I think I use one of them and was happy with it.

To my novice eye, the "auto" footage I'm creating with the Osmo just seems dull and not very rich or sharp.  It's getting better as I've played around with the noise and sharpness, but the colors still do not feel very warm.   I was hoping to avoid having to take on editing of the colors as I haven't done that in the (admittedly, short) 3 years I've been into this hobby.  Sounds like I'm going to have to play around with it.

I did download the Lut for DJI tonight so I'll be experimenting with that as well.  

Thanks again.

johansenfoto Posted at 8-14 01:30
I will start with saying; congrats on getting a great camera and that is from a motovlogger myself (atv vlogger) that have owned mulitple gopro's and insta360 ONE R and ONE RS before.
The main reason I use OA4 now is because batterylife, color science and the that you can actually trust it will record without freezing up etc.
OA4 and Insta360 have similar color science, gopro have actually wrong color science making colors and scenery too warm so red seems to be closer to orange and green leaves are closer to yellowish.

Thanks for your kind response.  

Agreed, I'm so glad to be moving away from GoPro given the reliability issue.  I've lost hours of footage because of them.

I do have the Insta360 X4 I think it is (the 360 one) and that footage too seems underwhelming to me.  I guess because of the two cameras.  I use it mainly for "B roll" sort of alternative shots but to me it doesn't look very good.  I loved the Ace Pro but the Osmo seemed better overall.

Appreciate the tip about the 60 fps.  I've been doing 4k/30, admittedly in part to save on storage space.  

I'm going to see if I can share a link in this forum with some sample footage I've taken with the Osmo Action 4 dialed in at least to where I'm at currently.   

BaynhamPhoto Posted at 8-14 11:37
Editing dlog doesn’t have to hard DJI offer a standard LUT on the downloads page that can be applied to your footage but video output will be subjective based on frame rate, exposure, FOV etc.  The only issue I had initially had was flickering due to stabilisation & frame rate, once sorted can’t say I have had an issue with output but it’s not & never will be a full frame low light beast.  Action cameras are a game of compromise in one way or another but getting better.

https://www.dji.com/uk/downloads/softwares/dji-osmo-action-4-d-log-m-to-rec-709-vivid-lut

Thanks for responding.   I've taken your advice and downloaded the LUT and will play around with this.  Admittedly, I was hoping to avoid having to learn about this when I've been pleased (as a novice) with the video produced by the GoPro and the Ace Pro.  Was hoping to have the same here but it sounds like I'll need to take on some editing.   Appreciate the tips/feedback.  Thanks!

RamblinMan Posted at 8-14 23:46
Thanks for your kind response.  

Agreed, I'm so glad to be moving away from GoPro given the reliability issue.  I've lost hours of footage because of them.

That looks pretty good to me and it’s a dull ish day. Honestly, try raising the gamma and then colour depth. That will ‘pop’ easily.

RamblinMan Posted at 8-14 23:46
Thanks for your kind response.  

Agreed, I'm so glad to be moving away from GoPro given the reliability issue.  I've lost hours of footage because of them.

Sound is actually great.

Your video do look a bit softer than I usually gets, but you also drive faster than me.
I can recommend sharpness at 0 at noise reduction on -2 for your daylight driving.
And like I wrote earlier, I prefer 60 fps to make it more realistic when driving since we're not making a Hollywood movie that needs any blur that 30 fps and lower gives us.

I did buy two OA4's, but I think you should wait and see if they will release OA5 at end of August this year like rumors says.

Here is one of my videos and use both cameras:

Iancraig10 Posted at 8-15 00:04
That looks pretty good to me and it’s a dull ish day. Honestly, try raising the gamma and then colour depth. That will ‘pop’ easily.

Appreciate the feedback.   I've played around with the DJI LUT but I'm still learning how to raise the gamma and the color depth. Will keep playing around with it.  Thanks again.

johansenfoto Posted at 8-15 02:59
Sound is actually great.

Your video do look a bit softer than I usually gets, but you also drive faster than me.

Thanks for the feedback.  Good advice about waiting.  Though I may cheap out and benefit from the used market on eBay.  Ha.   I just shot some footage today taking your advice to put noise at -2 and I went out with sharpness on zero.  I also recorded in D-log so I could play around with the LUT.  I'm having to admit and realize I need to do a little editing work on the back end with color it sounds like.  Thanks for the feedback.  

johansenfoto Posted at 8-15 02:59
Sound is actually great.

Your video do look a bit softer than I usually gets, but you also drive faster than me.

Thanks again for the advice.  I did some test footage yesterday with a shout-out to the helpful forum.   I think this turned out pretty good but I will need to probably learn more about the color changes.  All I did was apply the LUT.  Also, the speedometer area sometimes looks fuzzy and out of focus to me whereas with the GoPro this was always in focus (I think).  Maybe a limitation of the camera or maybe something with my settings but overall I'm a little happier with this test footage.  

Thanks to everyone for the feedback.  

RamblinMan Posted at 8-16 10:04
Thanks again for the advice.  I did some test footage yesterday with a shout-out to the helpful forum.   I think this turned out pretty good but I will need to probably learn more about the color changes.  All I did was apply the LUT.  Also, the speedometer area sometimes looks fuzzy and out of focus to me whereas with the GoPro this was always in focus (I think).  Maybe a limitation of the camera or maybe something with my settings but overall I'm a little happier with this test footage.  

Thanks to everyone for the feedback.  

That looks good. TBH, I think normal mode would give similar without the LUT, but it doesn’t look bad at all. You can use auto when using the Action log, it just gives a less contrasty picture so that you can adjust to your taste in post but in all honesty, I don’t find the DJI LUT gives that much different to the normal profile. I’ve often wondered whether it’s just the same with less contrast!

You could try slowing the shutter to introduce more blur into the side of the road shooting by.

I’d also try playing around with gamma, which leaves highs and lows but adjusts the Mids more until you have the contrast range that you like.

It’s really not bad though.

The GoPro has a very different colour profile. It looks like a ‘thicker’ colour to me than the Action and the Ace Pro can be a bit over saturated. I like my Ace Pro, but the colour can be a bit pinky orange in tone (like the GoPro can) but the Action isn’t and that could be what you miss …..

You are right about close focus. GoPro is better closer in than the Ace or Action. Ace is the worst with the Action slightly better. I really enjoy my Ace Pro and Action but fought like the dickens with the GoPro because it froze, stopped recording, overheated. It was just unreliable. The choice is really Action or Ace Pro imo. If you want to get the dial looking better you could try a touch of sharpening in post. Better than doing it in camera.

Iancraig10 Posted at 8-16 10:29
That looks good. TBH, I think normal mode would give similar without the LUT, but it doesn’t look bad at all. You can use auto when using the Action log, it just gives a less contrasty picture so that you can adjust to your taste in post but in all honesty, I don’t find the DJI LUT gives that much different to the normal profile. I’ve often wondered whether it’s just the same with less contrast!

You could try slowing the shutter to introduce more blur into the side of the road shooting by.

Thanks for the feedback on it.   Agreed that to me the default LUT looks very similar to Normal at least in many of the test clips I've played around with.  I think in some of the brighter lighting the LUT was better but it's so hard to tell.  And I'm a novice.   I haven't figured out how to play around with the Gamma or other color stuff.  Been watching some videos on Final Cut Pro and will try to play around more this weekend with it.  I think you are right about what I may miss from the previous cameras.  I think I'm getting to a point where I think it's good enough but if I can fine-tune it for more "warmth" I will be really happy, especially if that doesn't add a lot of time to the editing process.  

Many thanks.

Gamma is a very handy way of brightening footage (which makes it ‘pop’ more without pushing highs and lows too much. Worth searching out on your software. Before you know it, you’ll be doing it automatically for every clip, once you learn the right amount of ‘pop’ and brightness for you.

I go into auto mode. Adjust the first clip and copy and paste the effects into the rest of the footage using the same lighting conditions. It really speeds things up.

RamblinMan Posted at 8-16 10:04
Thanks again for the advice.  I did some test footage yesterday with a shout-out to the helpful forum.   I think this turned out pretty good but I will need to probably learn more about the color changes.  All I did was apply the LUT.  Also, the speedometer area sometimes looks fuzzy and out of focus to me whereas with the GoPro this was always in focus (I think).  Maybe a limitation of the camera or maybe something with my settings but overall I'm a little happier with this test footage.  

Thanks to everyone for the feedback.  

Your footage looks great now, but do you have it on Auto White Balance or? I Use 5600K to make it a bit warmer than 5500K I used before.

The main issue with Ace Pro and actually all(?) insta360 cameras is audio desync problem that can happen sometimes.

The main issue I had with gopro is random freeze up and also complaining about being too cold in the summer while driving. So it was a pain to unmount-take of media mod-take out battery, for then to put all together again. So I just love using OA4 and had OA3 before + still have OA1.

For me I don't think the speedometer is too unsharp because I could easily read your speed.

johansenfoto Posted at 8-16 13:34
Your footage looks great now, but do you have it on Auto White Balance or? I Use 5600K to make it a bit warmer than 5500K I used before.

The main issue with Ace Pro and actually all(?) insta360 cameras is audio desync problem that can happen sometimes.

Thanks for the feedback.  Affirmative, I did have Auto White Balance on.  I will check out the 5600k.  Thanks for the info on that.

I think when I watch it back on YouTube it was not defaulting to 4k.  When I change it to 4k, definitely looked better for me and like what I had on my desktop.   

Appreciate the info.

RamblinMan Posted at 8-16 13:59
Thanks for the feedback.  Affirmative, I did have Auto White Balance on.  I will check out the 5600k.  Thanks for the info on that.

I think when I watch it back on YouTube it was not defaulting to 4k.  When I change it to 4k, definitely looked better for me and like what I had on my desktop.   

Ah that's why I saw some change in color just in the beginning, was thinking about Auto WB or just the shadow hitting the camera, so I had to ask

And I forgot to say thanks for mention us on this forum in your video, most of us like to help others and also search the forum for answer and discuss issues and get tips.

Btw like your bike, cool Indian one.

johansenfoto Posted at 8-16 15:12
Ah that's why I saw some change in color just in the beginning, was thinking about Auto WB or just the shadow hitting the camera, so I had to ask

And I forgot to say thanks for mention us on this forum in your video, most of us like to help others and also search the forum for answer and discuss issues and get tips.

Do you leave auto exposure on Auto?

All good on the mention, BTW.  I have received more from the forums than I can ever give back but I do try to pass some of the knowledge along.  Thanks again.

RamblinMan Posted at 8-16 15:24
Do you leave auto exposure on Auto?

All good on the mention, BTW.  I have received more from the forums than I can ever give back but I do try to pass some of the knowledge along.  Thanks again.

Yes I put it at 1/200s shutterspeed and Auto ISO 100-1600, so the ISO will be adjusted but not the shutterspeed that I want above 1/200s all time for stabilization to work at best.

You already do by asking so others still will learn from it.

johansenfoto Posted at 8-17 03:09
Yes I put it at 1/200s shutterspeed and Auto ISO 100-1600, so the ISO will be adjusted but not the shutterspeed that I want above 1/200s all time for stabilization to work at best.

You already do by asking so others still will learn from it.

Thanks for this feedback.  I just went out and shot some riding footage with these settings that I'm importing now.  I did this in D-log color.  It came out right now very white-ish and bright.  Is that normal?   I realize in D-log I need to do some editing of it, just curious if that's how yours turns out.  Thanks much.
Edit update:  I think I did something wrong in the settings.  I think the IsO wasn't on auto or something.  So I had shutterspeed set to manual at 1/200s and thought I had iso on Auto in the range but it turned out all bright.  I checked it again and changed iso from auto to manual and back and I "think" it is working correctly now.  Will keep testing it.

RamblinMan Posted at 8-17 12:16
Thanks for this feedback.  I just went out and shot some riding footage with these settings that I'm importing now.  I did this in D-log color.  It came out right now very white-ish and bright.  Is that normal?   I realize in D-log I need to do some editing of it, just curious if that's how yours turns out.  Thanks much.
Edit update:  I think I did something wrong in the settings.  I think the IsO wasn't on auto or something.  So I had shutterspeed set to manual at 1/200s and thought I had iso on Auto in the range but it turned out all bright.  I checked it again and changed iso from auto to manual and back and I "think" it is working correctly now.  Will keep testing it.

I haven't shot in D-LogM for a long time, ordinary colors works good in the summer.
When you switch between colors and D-LogM you need to setup everything again, since they will have different settings saved.

johansenfoto Posted at 8-17 14:11
I haven't shot in D-LogM for a long time, ordinary colors works good in the summer.
When you switch between colors and D-LogM you need to setup everything again, since they will have different settings saved.

Thanks for the response.  I thought I had it set up ok but just went out today and all the footage is a bright white.  I haven't been able to figure out how to make it look better.  I did have it in D-log (see you say leave it normal) and the other settings as you noted.  I thought with Dlog and the DJI LUT it would change it but it's not looking so hot.  I guess if I decide to use Dlog I need to go back to auto settings on some of it.  Will still play around more. Thx.

RamblinMan Posted at 8-18 12:08
Thanks for the response.  I thought I had it set up ok but just went out today and all the footage is a bright white.  I haven't been able to figure out how to make it look better.  I did have it in D-log (see you say leave it normal) and the other settings as you noted.  I thought with Dlog and the DJI LUT it would change it but it's not looking so hot.  I guess if I decide to use Dlog I need to go back to auto settings on some of it.  Will still play around more. Thx.

I can recommend trying out different settings when not driving, just in your garden with a few seconds or so with different settings (Color/D-LogM).
And also remember that our viewers care more about the content and not so much about the video quality - but sound is most important.

johansenfoto Posted at 8-17 03:09
Yes I put it at 1/200s shutterspeed and Auto ISO 100-1600, so the ISO will be adjusted but not the shutterspeed that I want above 1/200s all time for stabilization to work at best.

You already do by asking so others still will learn from it.

I was playing around with this some more and I think I may be confused about how to set it.  I tried "normal" color mode but in the area for shutterspeed and ISO, it looks like it can be either manual for both or auto.  When I do 1/200s shutter and 100-1600 iso, it is very bright.  Only when I click "auto" does the picture return to a normal look but the shutter speed then goes into auto mode.  Tried reading up on this but I'm still puzzled by it.

RamblinMan Posted at 8-19 10:09
I was playing around with this some more and I think I may be confused about how to set it.  I tried "normal" color mode but in the area for shutterspeed and ISO, it looks like it can be either manual for both or auto.  When I do 1/200s shutter and 100-1600 iso, it is very bright.  Only when I click "auto" does the picture return to a normal look but the shutter speed then goes into auto mode.  Tried reading up on this but I'm still puzzled by it.

D-Log M will be brighter with same settings but you have used auto so it was probably not using 1/200 or above as shutterspeed.
In ordinary daylight it will use probably 1/8000s shutterspeed, but just need to set it to always be above 1/200s.

I have plan to make a video about this.

johansenfoto Posted at 8-19 11:02
D-Log M will be brighter with same settings but you have used auto so it was probably not using 1/200 or above as shutterspeed.
In ordinary daylight it will use probably 1/8000s shutterspeed, but just need to set it to always be above 1/200s.

I was using the "normal" color on one of the tests while trying to leave shutter and ISO on the manual settings (and range) I selected.  When I set the shutter speed, I have the other range up to 1,600 I think it was.  That's the one where I'm confused how that can be in "auto" when the shutter on the same page is manual.  I may not be explaining that correctly.   

Just now in the backyard I get best results with white balance at 56k and auto on everything else, with normal color.   I would like to experiment with those settings on shutter speed and ISO but I think I'm struggling to understand how the ISO is in "auto" when it's a manual setting.  Sorry if I'm explaining that wrong.  I plan to try to watch more footage tonight to learn on this.  Thanks again .

RamblinMan Posted at 8-19 11:05
I was using the "normal" color on one of the tests while trying to leave shutter and ISO on the manual settings (and range) I selected.  When I set the shutter speed, I have the other range up to 1,600 I think it was.  That's the one where I'm confused how that can be in "auto" when the shutter on the same page is manual.  I may not be explaining that correctly.   

Just now in the backyard I get best results with white balance at 56k and auto on everything else, with normal color.   I would like to experiment with those settings on shutter speed and ISO but I think I'm struggling to understand how the ISO is in "auto" when it's a manual setting.  Sorry if I'm explaining that wrong.  I plan to try to watch more footage tonight to learn on this.  Thanks again .

No you are explaining it very well, just me that forgot how settings are to put them on auto for shutterspeed. But think it will say something like 1/200-1/800 and for ISO it is 100-1600, then it will use what is needed but with as low ISO at needed.

johansenfoto Posted at 8-19 12:26
No you are explaining it very well, just me that forgot how settings are to put them on auto for shutterspeed. But think it will say something like 1/200-1/800 and for ISO it is 100-1600, then it will use what is needed but with as low ISO at needed.

Ok, I feel like a complete idiot.  I just now realized that you can change the setting numbers and still leave it in Auto. Duh on me!  I was trying to change it to manual as I thought that's what manual was.  So I haven't really had it in auto with those settings, I was in manual.   

Here's a pic of the settings.  So if I click "M" for manual, I can pick 1/200.  But when I click auto that disappears and it says -3.0EV.   Per my previous post, I just realized you can leave it in auto and change the setting on the right to 100-1600.  I was doing that correctly before.  But if you click back on "auto" I guess I'm not sure if that means they are both auto or if I leave it M mode when I confirm.  

RamblinMan Posted at 8-19 12:58
Here's a pic of the settings.  So if I click "M" for manual, I can pick 1/200.  But when I click auto that disappears and it says -3.0EV.   Per my previous post, I just realized you can leave it in auto and change the setting on the right to 100-1600.  I was doing that correctly before.  But if you click back on "auto" I guess I'm not sure if that means they are both auto or if I leave it M mode when I confirm.  

[view_image]

You can also change on top left where it says 1/200, to show shutterspeed and not only EV

johansenfoto Posted at 8-19 14:05
You can also change on top left where it says 1/200, to show shutterspeed and not only EV

That tip helped!  I feel embarrassed at my novice move of not knowing that.  Ok, so it shows "auto mode" but I see it says 1/200-1/8000 on shutter speed and 100-1600 on ISO.  Will play around with that tomorrow outside.  Cool!  Thank you!

RamblinMan Posted at 8-19 18:07
That tip helped!  I feel embarrassed at my novice move of not knowing that.  Ok, so it shows "auto mode" but I see it says 1/200-1/8000 on shutter speed and 100-1600 on ISO.  Will play around with that tomorrow outside.  Cool!  Thank you!

Don't feel embarrassed since we all had to learn it at one stage after we bought it ourself.

But now I think you will have those settings you actually would need, and feel free to post results here

RamblinMan Posted at 8-16 10:04
Thanks again for the advice.  I did some test footage yesterday with a shout-out to the helpful forum.   I think this turned out pretty good but I will need to probably learn more about the color changes.  All I did was apply the LUT.  Also, the speedometer area sometimes looks fuzzy and out of focus to me whereas with the GoPro this was always in focus (I think).  Maybe a limitation of the camera or maybe something with my settings but overall I'm a little happier with this test footage.  

Thanks to everyone for the feedback.  

Hi, was you using D-log and applying the lut or was it just in normal mode.
Also did you use the lut at 100% or did you back it off some?

I ask both because I am using normal and I have to back off the lut at least to 75% else it is way too vivid for my liking :/

As for your speedo, if you look at the LCD part, that looks ok to me but that's cause the reflection of your helmet is making it darker and the rest of the speedo is seeing the sky making it washed out.  A polarising filter would resolve this issue.

Bashy Posted at 8-23 19:41
Hi, was you using D-log and applying the lut or was it just in normal mode.
Also did you use the lut at 100% or did you back it off some?

I was using D-log and applying the LUT.  
I played around with it but generally was using 100%.

I tried using normal but honestly I don't think I tried backing off the LUT.  I will play around with that idea.  

Appreciate the advice about the filter.  Thank you.

johansenfoto Posted at 8-17 14:11
I haven't shot in D-LogM for a long time, ordinary colors works good in the summer.
When you switch between colors and D-LogM you need to setup everything again, since they will have different settings saved.

Sorry, I'm back with some questions after recording different footage and encountering an issue.  I think I've made so many tweaks that I've landed on a "worst" spot and I'm trying to work my way back to normal.

I've gotten used to playing around with D-Log vs Normal and feel good on it.  I think I'm messing up the settings for shutter speed and AWB or something.  I've experimented with 5600k on the AWB versus just letting it handle it on its own.

The issue I'm running into while recording on my motorcycle is that I'll be going down the road on a sunny day and the sky looks completely whited out. Then as I eventually keep moving forward and come out of say some trees into a more open road, you can suddenly see the beautiful blue sky with some nice white clouds....but before that, the entire sky was just white washed out and looked bad.

Is there something I should check on my settings to make sure that doesn't happen?

I tried just leaving everything as "auto" and I'm not sure even that helped much.  I have a feeling on the camera under "exposure" I'm not doing something write.  It is set to "auto"  Not sure if I need to go manual or change some settings but leave it in auto.   Thanks.

johansenfoto Posted at 8-17 03:09
Yes I put it at 1/200s shutterspeed and Auto ISO 100-1600, so the ISO will be adjusted but not the shutterspeed that I want above 1/200s all time for stabilization to work at best.

You already do by asking so others still will learn from it.

Trying to upload some pics of my settings to see which one looks correct.  With the below two pics, I believe one is set on manual and the other is set on Auto but with the shutter speed and ISO as noted.  I have AWB at 5600k.  Not sure if I leave this in "M" or hit the Auto button.  For the one where M is highlighted, I see the ISO shows 1600 ISO with a letter A next to it top right.  Does that mean it is in Auto even with Manual selected in bottom left?  Again, sorry for basic questions.

RamblinMan Posted at 10-7 15:40
Trying to upload some pics of my settings to see which one looks correct.  With the below two pics, I believe one is set on manual and the other is set on Auto but with the shutter speed and ISO as noted.  I have AWB at 5600k.  Not sure if I leave this in "M" or hit the Auto button.  For the one where M is highlighted, I see the ISO shows 1600 ISO with a letter A next to it top right.  Does that mean it is in Auto even with Manual selected in bottom left?  Again, sorry for basic questions.

[view_image]

In your first image shutterspeed is also at Auto going from 200-8000s.
In your second it is set to 1/200s only so no Auto.
Both images have ISO set to Auto and that's what I also do.
WB you will have set to manual, if Auto it will change colors with sceneries and that looks terrible.

johansenfoto Posted at 10-7 23:13
In your first image shutterspeed is also at Auto going from 200-8000s.
In your second it is set to 1/200s only so no Auto.
Both images have ISO set to Auto and that's what I also do.

Thanks for the response.

What should I have shutter speed set to.  Manual or auto?  The "200" option seems to have 1/200s only if M is selected whereas in Auto it is 200-8000s.  Guess that makes sense as it finds the range.    I think I'm confused about which one to leave it on. Thanks.  

RamblinMan Posted at 10-8 05:01
Thanks for the response.

What should I have shutter speed set to.  Manual or auto?  The "200" option seems to have 1/200s only if M is selected whereas in Auto it is 200-8000s.  Guess that makes sense as it finds the range.    I think I'm confused about which one to leave it on. Thanks.

Keep it at Auto 200-8000s to be sure you will not get blown out highlights