Not A Speck Of
Second Officer
Flight distance : 666493 ft
United States
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There's a bit of disinformation here.
RAW files: with the same settings, a RAW file should look mostly just like the JPG. It is not true that "a RAW file NEEDS post-processing".
Try this: shoot a JPEG. Then without changing any other settings, switch to RAW. Later, load that RAW file into whatever computer program you have that reads RAW files and save the image to another JPG. Compare they two JPGs. There CAN be a difference between the two because the JPGs were created from RAW data by two different programs (the first one in your drone camera, the second one on your home computer). But they can also be very much the same.
HOWEVER, many to most of us that shoot RAW files also like to tweak things after words before saving to JPG. There a lot of advantages that are too detailed for this thread.
WHAT I THINK YOUR MAIN PROBLEM IS: "D-Log". I'm new to this subject as well, but my understand is that (unlike RAW files), you DEFINITELY need to post-process them with special techniques. Until you understand both the PRE and POST aspects of shooting in D-log, I would just not use that setting at all. Because a D-log camera setting (PRE) withOUT appropriate D-log POST-processing automatically means a FLAT file. So if your image feels flat, that's probably it.
SHUTTER: generally, 60 (1/60, or a 60th of a second) is about as low (slow) as you want to to go with a camera flying shooting stills in the sky because of blur. Faster (120, 250, 500, and even faster like 1000th and 2000th of a second) means a quicker shutter speed and therefore a SHARPER capture. Since the shutter is not opened as long, less camera/motion blur, but also less light (read on).
In answer to one of your questions above, higher (faster, quicker) shutter speeds does not make your image brighter. It's just the opposite. Since the shutter is open for less time, it lets in less light. So darker.
SO, for faster shutter speeds, you need more light. Shoot on bright days, of course. Generally, on a sunny day, you should easily be able to get 250/500/1000 with nothing on the lens except the UV filter that it came with. On less brighter days, yeah, you have to accept slower shutter speeds.
Do not use ND (Neutral Density) filters for still shots, because that slows things down. This especially true when it's not a super bright sunny day.
Lots of people here are using ND filters for everything, when really, they should just stick to using them with VIDEO (where motion blur is a benefit, unlike with still photography for the most part).
People say "Dang it's bright here in Florida, better use an ND filter". But that's not helping. I mean, at all. It just slows down the shutter for still shots. People can get "less light" in such bright conditions by simply using a higher shutter speed.
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