fhagan02
lvl.4
Flight distance : 1854908 ft
United States
Offline
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I couldn't agree with you more jatiblier.
When I bought my first set up I knew I wanted to use ND filters to slow the shutter rate of the GoPro for more cinematic natural motion blur. (An ND filter also significantly reduces the well known "jello" effect.) I also planned on always using a clear lens protector if not using the ND filter. (No removable lenses so If the GoPro lens gets scratched by debris, crash etc... the entire camera is done.) Anyway I saw the posts and vids on counter balancing with dimes, nickels, whatever and I though, "What a joke! I'm am not doing that to my brand new Phantom/Gimbal!" Then I started to hear the faint sounds of motor strain and the camera would randomly dip to the right. So... reluctantly...afraid of burning out the gimbal... I tried the dreaded counter balancing trick. (I hate it I do. Pay all this money for a "top of the line" piece of technology and have to half-ass rig it with coins and duct tape!?) But... it worked. It still works. I've got over 150 flights on one of my Phantoms and the gimbal is still dead on level, never had a problem, motors don't strain and camera constantly stays in position the entire flight. So yeah I got into doing this reluctantly but the bottom line is... it works so I leave well enough alone. What's the alternative?
I've seen that the H4-3D is supposed to be release. Yep especially design for the GoPro Hero 4's weight difference. Still I'll want to use filters for professional work, remove "jello" as well as protection so I'd end up adding less weight.... but still adding weight. I seriously doubt DJI would design it with removable counter weights but an ND filter is a necessity on a bright sunny day. It'll be built for the naked Hero 4 just like the H3-3D is for the naked Hero 3.
All this said the naked GoPro 4 is heavier than the Hero 3. So make no mistake the H3-3D was made exclusively for the Hero 3's wieght. Not the Hero 3 and 4. You shouldn't slap the Hero 4 naked on it just becase it fits the metal backing plate and expect everything else to be fine.... and stay fine.
If anyone tries this just be smart. Obviously at your own risk but It's simple physics. Test by adding your counter weight to the gimbal when powered off. Add just enough that when you lift one side... it stays there. Doesn't float back down (This is a common mistake people make. They think that the gimbal should go back to a level position when one side is lifted. Not the case when balancing a gimbal that's not powered on.) Lift the other side... it should stay there if balanced. Tilt the camera down, then up. Each time the gimbal should stay wherever you let go of it. When I felt I was "in the ball park" as far as the right amount of wieght the subtle tweaks came in by slightly moving the dimes a milimeter to the left or right until it was balanced. Only takes about 5 minutes.
And again.... Yes I still absolutely hate to feel I've had to do this but it is what it is. But my video consistantly looks wonderful so maybe I just got lucky.
Best of luck to everyone.
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