Hello DJI,
I know it is against your marketing direction to introduce a receiver or a cable that can be connected to FATSHARK goggles. But to be quit frank, I will not ever buy the goggles you are building. Reason: Too BIG! I mean the whole purpose of the Mavic is to keep things compact. These goggles would be bigger than the whole mavic alltoghether.
So as a loyal costumer: I would request a occusynch converter to HDMI. Whether you make a seperate receiver or just a simple cable that is connected to the USB connector on the transmitter (which I beleive is the cheaper solution) to a micro HDMI which can be inserted into FATSHARK HD goggles would make many costumers happy. And this would bring many racers who now DON'T buy the Mavic because of the inability to transport and race anywhere, to actually buy them. I think this would incline many more cosumters who are already fitted with their own goggles to buy the Mavic as well.
Ideally my favorite solution would be to have a USB to bluetooth, then a bluetooth to HDMI. Not sure if the bluetooth would have enough bandwidth, but you get the picture.
Who else on this forum would like to have a occusync2HDMI cable?!

Thanks
Sp1k3

I had an HDMI output on my Phantom 4, and even though I loved it, it would make the app have green & black lines on the phone/tablet even when not in use.  I"m for it and would use my Fatsharks with the mini HDMI if it could be an easy connection.  Until then, flying with pride.

I think I had even a better idea. What if we could connect our phone to our goggles via miracast or similar? So that we wouldnt need the physical connection...

Can you  use apples Lighting to HDMI cable for the mavic to use fatshark?

fans7984fc8d Posted at 2017-3-14 16:22
Can you  use apples Lighting to HDMI cable for the mavic to use fatshark?

Mmmhhh that's a good idea. I have to look into that... it would be awesome if it worked!

Sp1k3 Posted at 2017-3-15 03:07
Mmmhhh that's a good idea. I have to look into that... it would be awesome if it worked!

No that wont work, i just thought about it. You need the App somewhere... The USB is sending serial info to the phone which is translating it via the APP. Now in order to get an image I would need a processor in between the USB and HDMI micro that would emulate the APP. Not so trivial...

you are 100% correct....thanks for the feed back......

I found 2 very suitable solutions:
1 draws more current, but requires extremely low volume for transport:
FATSHARK HDMI compatible goggles with Miracast dongle. 1st connect phone to dongle, so that when you turn on the Mavic controller and drone that it detects the frequency being used by Miracast and it chooses another one as not to have interference. Set resolution to 720p 60fps
miracast dongle
2 consumes less current from controller & phone but requires more packing volume:
Buy virtual reality goggles for phone, insert phone directly connected to controller.
my choice: quanum diy goggle

YES IT WORKS!
FATHSARK goggles are compatible with miracast dongle!!!
It works great! The phone however gets a little hot, it already did just running the go 4 app, and it draws more current, but the image is perfect!

make sure you set the dongle first to 1280x720 60fps, then you get a crystal clear image.

Give it a try, also the latency is very low. Just make sure that the Mavic is set to 720 and not 1080, because the 1080 has significant more compression and reduced data transmission, which implies it is much slower.

OK, after some time in the air, I started having issues with the HD video signal...
Miracast also works at 2.4GHz hence the interference. When the controller is receiving signal from the drone, then it is very sensitive to noise which is being generated by your cell phone at 2.4GHz when transmitting its image to the Miracast dongle. I managed by going under the menu HD and you can visually see the frequencies used by the phone (which by the way, One should always put the phone to Airplane mode to reduce the noise level at the controller) and you can customly place the bandwidth at 10MHz and for me it worked best at the lowest frequency. I was able to manage to get a range of about 200m prior to getting the HD singal bliking, which i suppose is telling me, OK time to return or you have interference...
So the only solution to that is to buy a miracast dongle that works a 5GHz. My phone the LG G4 H815, which by the way works great with all the latest updates of dji go app4, never one app crash, it can manage 5GHz wifi. So I'm considering if I should try actually buy this gadget or not. Because to be honest, after comparing the quality of the video between the goggles with the phone in it and the fatshark goggles, the one with the phone is wayyyyyy better. You can see clearly every little branch in perfect detail, the goggles having only 800x600 resolution don't deliver the same quality... And it's hard to tell if you are close to a branch or not. So for now I'm opting for this solution as my favorite:
my choice: quanum diy goggle. Al though this needs a little tweaking to get proper focus...

Which specific dongle did you test with? Also I agree with this thread. I have the RE edition and although the new FPV version is smaller and offers compatibility with the racing air units. I would rather use FatShark HDO for display. I think DJI has done a great job with their optics in there range of googles. But!!!! The HDO2 is just way smaller and is compatible with RapidFire and most other receivers with a module bay. The DJI analog options are a bunch more stuff attached to the google.

HDMI with FatShark googles would be great the DJI RE googles are great. However, there are not that bright. I get light leak. The biggest issue with RE Googles is the size and slow to charge battery.