I am planning on doing some shots of the eclipse on Monday, but was wondering what you guys think of which type of filter to use?

I have the set of 6 Polar Pro's.  I was thinking either an ND8 or an ND4PL.  Polarized or not?  This is what I am wrestling with in my head.

I would be using a much higher filter than that ND64 or ND32

I would not try to film the sun/solar eclipse local photographers are saying it will ruin the camera. Maybe enjoy the eclipse and look downwards on a crowd  of friends with your drone enjoying it.

Sticks Posted at 2017-8-16 19:59
I would not try to film the sun/solar eclipse local photographers are saying it will ruin the camera. Maybe enjoy the eclipse and look downwards on a crowd  of friends with your drone enjoying it.

It will not.  See prior posts.

It wont ruin the camera.  It also wont show at all on the camera which is a very wide lens with awful dynamic range.

This thread would appear to be another example of someone owning polarising filters without having a clue what they are or do.

You need a big stopper ND maybe 10-15 stops at present the highest we can get is 10 stop for mavic http://amzn.to/2vLonam

gnirtS Posted at 2017-8-16 20:31
It wont ruin the camera.  It also wont show at all on the camera which is a very wide lens with awful dynamic range.

This thread would appear to be another example of someone owning polarising filters without having a clue what they are or do.

i think i will use my infrared lens on my nikon camera for the eclispe

I'm thinking 2 things... Mylar might make a good filter if I can figure out how to attach it, and resulting pictures of the sun will be a tiny sun.  Probably not worth the effort.

gnirtS Posted at 2017-8-16 20:31
It wont ruin the camera.  It also wont show at all on the camera which is a very wide lens with awful dynamic range.

This thread would appear to be another example of someone owning polarising filters without having a clue what they are or do.

I was thinking about getting rid of some of the glare...  But you are right, I am not an expert on polarized filters.

HandyAndy Posted at 2017-8-16 19:49
I would be using a much higher filter than that ND64 or ND32

Here is my thought....  The eclipse will be like flying at dusk, so that is why I was thinking a smaller filter as most of the sun will be blocked out.  

This is exactly why I am talking about it as I am not sure what to expect.

Of course a really high shutter speed might be sufficient too, but I am not sure.

I plan on going up and recording the shadow as it comes across the ground n my direction. It might not sound all that interesting but I think that it will work better for me to have that video and a bright tiny dot that disappears.

For most DSLR's they recommend a solar filter.. I personally dont think its a good idea to have your camera lens open and potential harmful rays messing with your CCD's or  full Frame..

ND and polarizers are not intended for this purpose.  Polarizers filter out polarized light.  ND filters reduce shutter speed to enhance motion blur in motion videos - and sometimes to induce blur on still photos (think water falls and streams).......

Unless you are planning on holding the Mavic in your hand and pointing it at the sun, you won't be able to photograph the eclipse (while flying).  Not much point in adding filters.  Also with the Mavic camera, the sun will be rather small in the image.  On the other hand I think a time lapse of the terrain darkening might be rather interesting.

Gateway Posted at 2017-8-18 09:29
For most DSLR's they recommend a solar filter.. I personally dont think its a good idea to have your camera lens open and potential harmful rays messing with your CCD's or  full Frame..

The reason solar filters are recommended is to bring the light level down to something useful, not to protect the CCD.
I was doing some testing yesterday and with my ND filters and got some decent shapes of the sun but seem to be having a focus issue.  Is there a way to force the camera's focus to infinity?  I was using my ND16 filter and shutter speed of 1/8000, 1/6500 (I think it was), and 1/5000.  All seemed to capture the shape, albeit a little small.  I'm going to repeat the test later today without any filter at all to see if the fastest shutter speed will be enough to limit the light.
The point being; you can take pictures of the sun without worry, and the pictures just might come out.

OK, results time... If this works, the picture below was taken with 1/8000 shutter and ND8 filter...  The camera seems to focus on the lense flares rather than the sun...

ND8 1/8000

Next we have the ND16;

Followed by ND8PL

Anfd my favorite;

ND8PL

Now, none of this matters because when the eclipse starts, the sun will already be 29 degrees in the sky.  At totality, it will be 43 degrees, too high for the mavic to see.

I leave this with the same question I came with... is there a way to focus mavic's camera manually to infinity?  Am I asking the right question?

Tombolian Posted at 2017-8-18 18:13
OK, results time... If this works, the picture below was taken with 1/8000 shutter and ND8 filter...  The camera seems to focus on the lense flares rather than the sun... [view_image]Next we have the ND16;
[view_image]
Followed by ND8PL

This is exactly the kind of discussion I was looking for!  I am liking the lens flare a little.

Note with manual focus, that infinity mark on it means exactly that...  So yes, you can.  I am not sure if it will be in focus at that point, but in a hypothesis, it will (Had to use a scientifically correct term as everyone says theory but only a hypothesis can become theory after testing by 3rd party).

One more thought....  Capture in 4K.  Then we can crop to 1080p.

Looking forward more wonderful pictures and videos from you.

Xman1 Posted at 2017-8-18 19:39
This is exactly the kind of discussion I was looking for!  I am liking the lens flare a little.

Note with manual focus, that infinity mark on it means exactly that...  So yes, you can.  I am not sure if it will be in focus at that point, but in a hypothesis, it will (Had to use a scientifically correct term as everyone says theory but only a hypothesis can become theory after testing by 3rd party).

Lol, 'what infinity mark?' was my original response, before I googled ' Mavic Manual Focus', and realized that I didn't even know where the A/M switch was.  I've never seen manual focus before today.  And, yes, of course there's the infinity focus.
However, I also googled 'Infinity Focus' and learnt that I don't want that anyway, I want to manually focus to the 'hyperfocal' distance for shooting things beyond (like the sun).
I love this forum.  It constantly reminds me that I don't use google enough.
That's what I'll be doing today in SF bay!  Wait, no I won't, the sun will be too high in the sky at noon... dammit.
Any other advice on what to shoot with my Mavic in San Francisco Bay between 12-2PM?  I should try my Polarized filters there...

And this states that the hyperfocal distance is about 12M.  OK Off to SF!

Silverado101980 Posted at 2017-8-18 09:12
I plan on going up and recording the shadow as it comes across the ground n my direction. It might not sound all that interesting but I think that it will work better for me to have that video and a bright tiny dot that disappears.

Au contraire mon frère, this sounds very interesting!  Looking forward to the pics/vid!

Regarding attempts to photograph/film the eclipse with a Phantom (Mavic/Spark structures are different):

Depending on latitude, the sun will likely be too high in the sky for the extra 30 degrees enabled by the Go4 app option. Since you would be shooting up anyway, the need to even be aloft would seem unnecessary--you could lean the quad back (on a table) and get the sun. (But without any zoom capability, I don't see the reasoning).

But if you wanted to be in the air, you might be able to attach a small mirror below the quad (with OA/sonar systems turned off), such that the front edge would be flush with the Phantom's front legs. That way you shoot the shadow moving over the ground, using the level (or slightly downward) gimbal, then point it downward (into the mirror) to catch totality. And if you get the edge positioned just right, you might be able to catch both the shadow and the sun in the same frame. You might need some testing tomorrow at the same time as the eclipse on Monday.

Also, time lapse would seem unnecessary, as the total time of totality at any location is about 3 minutes.

Keep Smiling,

Augustus

Augustus Brian Posted at 2017-8-19 15:07
Regarding attempts to photograph/film the eclipse with a Phantom (Mavic/Spark structures are different):

Depending on latitude, the sun will likely be too high in the sky for the extra 30 degrees enabled by the Go4 app option. Since you would be shooting up anyway, the need to even be aloft would seem unnecessary--you could lean the quad back (on a table) and get the sun. (But without any zoom capability, I don't see the reasoning).

I am going to be shooting with a Nikon DSLR tested it today full sun, ND100 Filter, fully auto at
20X Zoom, 30X zoom & lastly 45X zoom, camera will do 60X but will not focus correctly.
Gonna stick with the 45X
Going to put the Mavic up around 350" to try to capture the shadow passing.
No color correction here, raw video, no post edit

Any camera will work, the higher the zoom, the better should be your shot.  I shot Venus' transit using a Kodak Easyshare Z5120.  A point and shoot with the lense from a welding mask strapped to the camera lense.  Check it.  The begger dot is Venus, the smaller are sunspots.Here...