Well, after it hit me too with the “controller is not charging” issue I surfed the web to see if other have the same problem.
It does look like there are plenty of users with the same issue.

The symptoms are that the charger shuts off before the battery is full.
First at three lights and then already at two lights.

It also seems that the remote shuts off during use way too early, even if the battery was only 50 percent charged.

I did read hat by bleaving the charger on even when he lights are off that the battery gets more charge.
I tried this and hat the charger on over night.
Didn’t really change much, just two lights when turned on and seem to discharge quickly.

Some reported that they opened the controller and measured that the battery was basically full but the remote (and app) said 50 % or less

I did open my remote and checked on the battery, sure enough, I meassures 8.36volt and that should be pretty much all it can do. At least way more then the 50% stated.

This behavior screams to be a connection issue.
If the controller doesn’t see the voltage it assumes it has less charge. Not sure why it would stop charging but I assume that the charging is controlled by the battery itself since there seems to be some electronic on the battery.  My guess is that this is the load balancer that is needed on the battery.

Anyway, I checked the board since the battery seems fine but I couldn’t see much just like anyone else.
As stated , a voltage drop is easy to get with a bad contact.
Since we have multilayer pcb boards there is not much one can do.
Except for one thing.  Since I had nothing to loose I just went for it.
Surface mount devices can’t be soldered with a solder  gun, instead you use a hot air solder station.
I remembered some time ago that some PlayStations hat a solder problem and it helped to “re-flow” those boards.
Well I took my smd solder station amd set it to 250 degree.
I am just guessing here , I am not sure if this was too hot or too cold to do anything.
I then concentrated my “re-flow” around  the area of the batterie plug. On both, the front and the back of the pcb. Just the area around the plug. That’s it.
I tried not to heat up the parts too much since they are easy to kill if the get too hot.

What can I say., I let the board cool of and put the remote together, the remote showed 4 lights as I would suspect with a full battery.
The app connected showed 97%.
It all seemed to fit  
I connected the phantom 4 and let it sit to drain the battery of the controller.
Slowly but surely the battery went down to 49%. It took quite a while to get the battery to discharge. Looked fine to me.
No shutting down or anything else weird happening.

Once the controller was at 49% I turned it off and put the charger on.
The controller charged what seems normal back up till all 4 leds came on.
When I connected the app it showed 90%  for the battery.
It could be that he battery can’t hold a 100% charge after a year and 50 flights. I would thing that’s too low but for now I take this as I can use it to fly again. Perhaps leaving the charger o even with the lights off it will go eventually to 100%.


So, it does look like there is a bad solder point somewhere on the board regarding the battery connection.

I am not telling you to go and fry your board, which is easy to do.
But if you have a spare, because you payed for a new controller, or if you have nothing else to do and like to screw with things then that’s something you could try.

That only would work, if at all, if the battery shows a full charge when meassured but the controller doesn’t see the charge and shuts if prematurely.

Perhaps someone with more knowledge in smd soldering and re-flowing could chime in??  As i said , i am not even sure about the temperature setting and time i applied the hot air.
If this would work and we would have a definitive temperature it could be as easy as putting the board into the oven  for a few minutes. Lol.

Perhaps DJI (or someone who works at DJI) would be so nice to publish the part of the drawing that relates to the charging and voltage sensing on the board so we don’t have to guess.
I know, long shot to ask for it.
But going thru the web seeing how many people have problems with this “not charging” issue it would be a good move from DJI.

Anyway, if anyone is up for it let us know how it went.

Again, no promises or warranties, you do it on your own.

I just telling my experience with this experiment..

Rainer.

Not sure what would cause this glitch. Are all your firmware uptodate?


RedHotPoker

RedHotPoker Posted at 2017-10-13 19:57
Not sure what would cause this glitch. Are all your firmware uptodate?

I forgot to mention that the bird and the remote are on the latest versions as of today  

I didn’t even fly the bird yet, perhaps I killed the phantom with the new software lol.

The charging issue was before the update and after the update. The firmware didn’t seem to change anything regarding charging.

rainer1 Posted at 2017-10-13 20:18
I forgot to mention that the bird and the remote are on the latest versions as of today  

I didn’t even fly the bird yet, perhaps I killed the phantom with the new software lol.

Yes, this is one of those odd if freak affairs. Not sure what to suggest, aside from: "Send it in, for evaluation and repair." ;-)


RedHotPoker

I must admit your exploration for this issue. I myself feel happy if this charging issue is resolved in the end. But we will still recommend that user send their parts in if it goes to the repair case for the safety and stability of the flight.

My remote won't charge. Plug it in and it blinks for a few seconds then goes off

DJI Thor Posted at 2017-10-13 23:42
I must admit your exploration for this issue. I myself feel happy if this charging issue is resolved in the end. But we will still recommend that user send their parts in if it goes to the repair case for the safety and stability of the flight.

Hello Thor.

I also do highly recommend having. The issue repaired profffeauonally.

However, in my case I was ready to buy a new remote instead of sending it in for repair. Or just put another regular lithium batterie in and route a charging plug outside for a lithium battery.

To be honest, it could even be that my remode is still under warranty and I didn’t  even check since sending it in is not an option for me.
Reason for rather get a new one or repair myself instead of giving it to DJI.

1: this is going on for a long time., DJI must have had by now plenty of remotes to actually check. DJI must know by now why so many boards seem to fail with what seem to be the same issue. But no word from DJI.

2: some report they got a battery replaced and when they turned it on they had the same “no charging issue”.  This shows that he “tech”  didn’t actually follow repair Instructuons nor did he check if it is “fixed”.

There are plenty of check points on the board to make it possible to actually “see” what’s going on on the board.  No guessing needed if you know what to look for.
DJI clearly has those infos and still manages to “screw” some repairs up. To be fair it seems that his number is low. But to be also fair in order to judge if this failed repair number is low we would need info on how many repairs are done for this one issue.
Obviously a info DJI will not release.

3: DJI sent back used equipment from other users.
I do not know what happened to this equipment, it must have been faulty otherwise DJI wouldn’t have it gotten back.
Now, Knowing that some repairs get done unprofessional and not even checked before sending it out I rather have not someone else’s proplem.
My equipment was never abused and never crashed, I know what I have.  Getting another remote back might result in a good charging but also might have other issues. No thank you.

Just look at the firmware issue that some people have??
I just updated because I got a device locked error???!

I will go out and try to fly and see if I got more issues now.
Not a good feeling  to not knowing what’s going to happen.
I heard there is now (after month) a beta software that seem to help in some cases.   Let’s hope that is the solution.


What would help from DJI would be what the temperature rating for the components used in the board are.
Or just the rating of the weakest part so we could actually reflow with a safe temperature  I guess that wouldn’t  be in DJI interest. Also it kind of would DJI on the spot should a reflow attempt fail. So I understand that’s not going to happen.
But it would be a solution for DJI to go for it and replace the board when necessary.

Anyway, I know I am a dog howling at the moon here,lol.

No hard feelings. But I think that some users have a right to be disappointed in DJI and how issues are handled.

rainer1 Posted at 2017-10-14 09:18
Hello Thor.

I also do highly recommend having. The issue repaired profffeauonally.

My apologies for the spelling errors.
I am typing on a tiny phone screen lol.

I hope you get the point anyway.

rainer1 Posted at 2017-10-14 09:18
Hello Thor.

I also do highly recommend having. The issue repaired profffeauonally.

We are so regretful for bringing the unpleasant experience to the users. And sometimes users tend to post their difficulties to the social media to look for the help, and we as moderators will also do the most for solving the issue. At the same time, when we are aware the trouble we had caused, we are doing our best to improve our service, and provide a good experience for the customers. It is never a certain distance to move forward, but we will keep moving.

Sadly my controller is doing the same... battery is at 70% but controller thinks it is zero and beeps

I tried swapping battery and seems issue with the board not the battery as it works fine in the other remote , also when I downgrade or upgrade firmware battery level is recognised and seems to be normal but once controller restart after turning of it assumes 0% again.

Well seems like thousands of the people experiences the same.

I tried few times with dji support but always end up with a moron(excuse me but it is a reality).

Mine just went out of the warranty and have zero trust with dji.

I believe that DJI should recall the faulty controller and replace them as a courtesy to fix buggy hardware.

I am just gonna look for other something else just because of extremely poor after sales support.

Why can't dji disclose the problem on the board for possible fix.

Needs to man up to own the problem they have in manufacturing... and stop endless support run around.

Just wanted to note that rainer1’s approach worked perfectly for me. I posted a video explanation following my successful self-repair:   Like others, I recommend a professional fix, if possible.  

But huge props to the OP (and several others on YouTube) for what worked great for me!

So what a Joke lol, sorry I am quite rattled. I received the phantom 4 pro + for xmas controller would not charge so returned to the store I purchased it from as they told me to return it I had to return the whole unit drone and everything. ordered another one received it in the mail today only for it to have the exact same problem!!!! what are the odds of that!!!

fans7f02b4a3 Posted at 2018-1-8 14:05
So what a Joke lol, sorry I am quite rattled. I received the phantom 4 pro + for xmas controller would not charge so returned to the store I purchased it from as they told me to return it I had to return the whole unit drone and everything. ordered another one received it in the mail today only for it to have the exact same problem!!!! what are the odds of that!!!

If you bought a "winning" lottery ticket, your odds would still be the same.

It's obvious to me, quality checks aren't being done at DJI manufacturing before boxing and shipping.
Or this would be a rare, to never occurance.


RedHotPoker

Well, I followed the excellent video guide as my controller was doing exactly the same. Only charging to about 70% with 3 lights if I was lucky. Battery was at 8.35v when tested with meter.
The strip down of controller was very simple, just be extra careful removing/ reinstalling ribbons.
I don’t have a solder station just a 2000w heat gun.
I tentatively hovered it around the charge port for a few seconds, plugged it into charger... exactly the same :-(

Repeated process but got a tiny bit closer, let it cool down, plugged in and .....BINGO !! The full sequence of lights greeting me, app says 85% so just topping up the charge and will try it out tomorrow.
Give yourselves a massive pat on the back !!

REFLOWING WORKS... GL300C RC original release Phantom 4.

I can confirm that this is NOT a battery or firmware issue but rather a circuit board issue in the RC. I pulled the battery and tested voltage and it read 8.4v which is a full charge for the 2S1P battery inside. Like the countless others, my RC would only charge to approximately 60-65% on average using the USB port. Using the charging port would give me 30% at best.

Anyhow, I purchased another battery off of eBay and after externally charging to 8.4v, I put it in my RC. Once again 2 lights and 64% in the DJI app. Being out of warranty I figured why not give reflowing a try as shown in the excellent video earlier in this thread. IT WORKED! All 4 RC lights are lit and the DJI app reads 99%

I still have to discharge the battery so I can run a charging cycle however this is definitely promising. What has happened to the remote really should not of happened under normal operating conditions. You see this type of thing happening in high temperature gaming systems and components that typically generate a lot of heat such as laptop motherboards.

Huge thanks to the OP and the member  that posted the video. Sorry I don’t remember the names off the top of my head... posting this on my iPad has been challenging enough LOL! Thank you!

I followed the instructions per the video above, as well as a few comments on the video, and now my controller works!  Basically I used a heat gun with aluminum foil on the end (1cm diameter to focus the heat), and heated (on the low setting) the board right at the little 8 pin black square piece (regulator?) that is to the right of the last LED for approx 30-45 seconds?  I let it cool for a couple seconds and plugged it in.  All 4 lights light up and now my app shows 100% controller battery life!  Thank you!

This is the heat gun setup i used, since I didn’t have the appropriate “re-flow” solder gun .  Also, I used the digital temp gun to monitor temp at the board.  Both can be picked up at Harbor Freight for cheap.

I had it too, and can confirm that this works perfectly.
Unfortunately, I just bought another controller off eBay because I didn't have much confidence that this would fix mine. Lesson learned! My controller (that had previously exhibited no problems whatsoever for almost 2 years) all of a sudden after letting it sit for a few months, showed 47% and stopped charging, over and over and over. No matter what else I did. And the beep wouldn't go at all, turning on or off.
After I spent 150.00 on the replacement controller, I thought nothing to lose so I bought a reflow box on Amazon for 38.00 (free shipping). When I got it, I turned it on and went over the main controller board with it at 325 F., put it back together and...Voila! Turned it on and showed 90%, put it on the charger and topped it off to 100% in about an hour! Works perfectly! And the beep sounder came back to life.

Kudos to whoever actually figured out that this could be the fix. I could have fixed it for 38 bucks, but at this point I have a spare controller I guess.

TravelPhotoFilm Posted at 2017-12-29 02:08
Just wanted to note that rainer1’s approach worked perfectly for me. I posted a video explanation following my successful self-repair: https://youtu.be/6pr6YhdnOYg  Like others, I recommend a professional fix, if possible.  

But huge props to the OP (and several others on YouTube) for what worked great for me!

First I want to thank travel photo for this great video.
I am sure that will help other a lot.

It’s good to see that my findings seem to help others as well.
This issue is not a new issue nor a DJI issue at all.
Most famous case I can think of is the PlayStation.

Now, since it seems that this helps in at least some cases we should be “worry” what else on the board could be affected.

For me it seems all is working again.but tris doenst mean that there is not another spot that could fail or failed.

Safest way would be to reflow the whole board with a safe temperature.
We just don’t know what this temperature is.
The last post mentioned 325 degree.
For how long and the whole board or just the charger area?

I just reflowed the area I identified as problem (more or less guessing) to avoid damage to other parts should I run it too hot. I stayed arround 240 degree if I remember right.



Knowing a safe temperature and time would help with just throwing the whole board in the oven

rainer1 Posted at 2018-4-2 14:42

It actually is a DJI issue. The board in this controller does not get that hot and should not be experiencing microfractures from storage.  Quite simply, it is an engineering and manufacturing defect on their part. No different then the PlayStation issue or the Xbox issues. Cheap components  in poor manufacturing controls

Kevin72 Posted at 2018-3-7 14:00
Well, I followed the excellent video guide as my controller was doing exactly the same. Only charging to about 70% with 3 lights if I was lucky. Battery was at 8.35v when tested with meter.
The strip down of controller was very simple, just be extra careful removing/ reinstalling ribbons.
I don’t have a solder station just a 2000w heat gun.

Th exact same thing happened to me and I just got a little closer and held it for a little longer and sure enough when I saw those 4 lights come on I felt like a child on Christmas morning. Great job

I think I may have this problem. Going to give the reflowing a go. One question - I keep seeing people mention charging via USB. As far as I know, the controller cant be charged via either of its USB ports. Can someone please explain how people are having margin success charging via USB on a P4 RC????

TravelPhotoFilm Posted at 2017-12-29 02:08
Just wanted to note that rainer1’s approach worked perfectly for me. I posted a video explanation following my successful self-repair:   Like others, I recommend a professional fix, if possible.  

But huge props to the OP (and several others on YouTube) for what worked great for me!

Welp...

I tried this and went really slow but no luck. Still flashing 1 or 2 LEDs and won't charge. At least I had a peek on the inside and saw how it all goes together, so thank you for the tutorial.

I even went so far as to re-solder the connections around the charging port.

I have no doubt that the circuit board in question is defective, but the problem is not the same as yours. It sucks that unless I am an authorized dealer or repair center I cannot order a circuit board so am forced to order a new controller. And order a new controller I did...I have a job to do next week so have to have it.

What irks me is spending a lot of money on my setup and about 1 month after warranty expires I had to replace the camera and 4 months later the the controller. Not impressed. Looking at the circuit board, it is obvious that is not high quality.

Sorry to say, but this is a mass produced product made with inferior workmanship and parts. My craft has less than 20 hours on it and I've almost paid for it twice now.

I will not be buying another DJI product unless I see that significant improvements in QC have been made.

HALLELUA!!
THANX FOR ALL THE INFO AND GREAT VIDEO!
My remote had this problem so I can't fly anymore. I was planning to buy a new remote and then I saw the video.
I tried to fix it and it worked!
It is clear that the print-plates of DJI have problems. I don't understand why they don't  recall the rotten bunch because they must know which batch has these problems.

I took some pictures and video of my night with a paint burner and a broken remote, sorry it's in Dutch.

Hello.

My controller is with the same issue, and as it is not more on the warranty, DJI doesn't want to fix this factory issue. After ask them how much they gonna charge to fix it, they doesn't want to say the price for it. Someone already sent and know the average cost they charge for it?

Thank you!

I've had this exact issue as well. It is well documented that it is a common fault and I cannot believe that DJI will not fix it for free. It is obviously a defect that is caused by poor quality control at time of manufacture. My problems started occurring 15mths after purchase (with only 100hrs flight time) and as it was out of warranty I was told I would have to pay for the repair. Unfortunately my P4 has been sitting on the shelf for the last 6mths and is practically unusable in its current state (I can get about 5mins flight time before the controller starts beeping).

Again, I cannot believe that DJI just wipe their hands of these problems if it occurs outside of the warranty period even though it is clearly a manufacturing issue.

8 months ago, while in Hawai'i, I sadly learned about this issue with my remote controller. Today, after giving it a shot to "reflow" as suggested from all the awesome users who posted about this and having success, I have a 100% battery reading on the RC, all 4 lights working and a flying Phantom 4 drone instead of a huge paper weight. Here is the video  referred to for disassembly which was very helpful.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxxkLe9eCT69HHlT-BnnAug
I used the exact same heat gun from Harbor Freight as Proudsuperior used above at the low setting which is said to be around 500+ degrees. I tried a couple times yesterday, heating areas by the charging port and battery connection for a minute hear and there but it didn't give me any results when I connected the charger. I just got one blinking light but I decided to leave it connected overnight. I woke up to the same RC, low battery warning when I turned it on. I almost gave in to purchasing a new one or a used one off of craigslist, but I figured to go for broke and heat it up again....I read that Proudsuperior focused the heat on the tiny (probably the smallest chip on the board) black chip with 8 silver connectors on the right of the last LED.  I attached a pic of the location but the chip is on the other side of the board. Using the same foil method to focus the heat, I was about a 1/2 inch away from the chip for about a minute. I let it cool then plugged the charger in again and it actually worked yo! ALL 4 LEDs started blinking in sequence. I even melted the battery connector a little on the circuit board but I was still able to connect the battery to it. After putting it all back together, I let it charge again. BUT, after a couple minutes, the lights stopped. I thought it was a tease. I quickly disconnected the RC from the charger and turned on the RC. Again, all 4 lights popped on. It was already fully charged from being plugged in all night. I took the drone for a test flight, being that it was almost 8 months ago since the last flight, I got a warning that firmware was out of date. I disregarded the update and it flew perfectly. I may be missing some new features from the newest firmware but hearing about issues after updates is making me question updating it right now. "If it aint broke, don't fix it" right. Anyways, thank you soo much everyone for all the reviews and comments that help solve this terrible issue that seems to be ignored by DJI, by not issuing a recall. ALSO, I honestly feel that my RC did not charge fully from the day I bought it because when I charged it for the first time the fourth light seemed to be dim, but I just thought it was the light. It might have seem dim only because light from the 3rd light was hitting it and it was actually not on at all...SHM I wish I new about this issue then.

AGAIN, MUCH THANKS TO TRAVEL|PHOTO|FILM, PROUDSUPERIOR, AND RAINER1 AND EVERYONE ELSE WHO CONTRIBUTED TO GETTING THIS FIX. Following the above information and video, any phantom 4 owner can fix their controller instead of sending it in.

Tools used were as recommended or used above:

Harbor Freight heat gun with foil https://www.harborfreight.com/15 ... 572-1112-96289.html
T-6 bit screwdriver for small plastic cover of USB
Skinny phillips screwdriver for 4 screws under rubber paddings that hold the body together and inside screws that hold the 2 circuit boards
Tweezers to pull black tabs/tape
I also used a dental pick to lift up on the tiny black plastic tabs that lock the black tabs/tape



Aj

Aj637 Posted at 2018-7-31 16:21
8 months ago, while in Hawai'i, I sadly learned about this issue with my remote controller. Today, after giving it a shot to "reflow" as suggested from all the awesome users who posted about this and having success, I have a 100% battery reading on the RC, all 4 lights working and a flying Phantom 4 drone instead of a huge paper weight. Here is the video  referred to for disassembly which was very helpful.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxxkLe9eCT69HHlT-BnnAug
I used the exact same heat gun from Harbor Freight as Proudsuperior used above at the low setting which is said to be around 500+ degrees. I tried a couple times yesterday, heating areas by the charging port and battery connection for a minute hear and there but it didn't give me any results when I connected the charger. I just got one blinking light but I decided to leave it connected overnight. I woke up to the same RC, low battery warning when I turned it on. I almost gave in to purchasing a new one or a used one off of craigslist, but I figured to go for broke and heat it up again....I read that Proudsuperior focused the heat on the tiny (probably the smallest chip on the board) black chip with 8 silver connectors on the right of the last LED.  I attached a pic of the location but the chip is on the other side of the board. Using the same foil method to focus the heat, I was about a 1/2 inch away from the chip for about a minute. I let it cool then plugged the charger in again and it actually worked yo! ALL 4 LEDs started blinking in sequence. I even melted the battery connector a little on the circuit board but I was still able to connect the battery to it. After putting it all back together, I let it charge again. BUT, after a couple minutes, the lights stopped. I thought it was a tease. I quickly disconnected the RC from the charger and turned on the RC. Again, all 4 lights popped on. It was already fully charged from being plugged in all night. I took the drone for a test flight, being that it was almost 8 months ago since the last flight, I got a warning that firmware was out of date. I disregarded the update and it flew perfectly. I may be missing some new features from the newest firmware but hearing about issues after updates is making me question updating it right now. "If it aint broke, don't fix it" right. Anyways, thank you soo much everyone for all the reviews and comments that help solve this terrible issue that seems to be ignored by DJI, by not issuing a recall. ALSO, I honestly feel that my RC did not charge fully from the day I bought it because when I charged it for the first time the fourth light seemed to be dim, but I just thought it was the light. It might have seem dim only because light from the 3rd light was hitting it and it was actually not on at all...SHM I wish I new about this issue then.

CORRECTED LINK TO DISASSEMBLY VIDEO by TRAVEL| PHOTO | FILM

I fixed my RC and everything worked as a charm but after 2 charges the same problem came back and now it doesn't charge at all.. I'm afraid this fix is not without danger.
Is't it possible to replace the plate? Is there a place where these parts can be bought?

HUGE props to everyone for figuring this out and sharing this knowledge. And massive disappointment in DJI. Can someone please initiate a class-action suit for this clear negligence? We should all get a check for $200 or something.

I had flown this drone about 15 times but it was out of warranty when this exact problem developed. I pulled it out and it suddenly didn't work, wouldn't charge, exactly as described.

I just grabbed an old heat gun from my basement (a black and decker 1300W paint stripper gun). I wrapped the nose in foil and then wrapped that around a magic marker to make a funnel like Proudsuperior's picture. Then I just focused it on the spot from the picture in Aj637's post and periodically cooled and tested the board by plugging it into the power block to see if all four lights would illuminate again. First I hit that spot for 5 seconds and tested: no luck. Then 10, then 15, then 20seconds. That worked, all 4 lights again, and it was just starting to melt the plastic where the battery connects. I have no idea what temperature I was working at. So. . .  even going pretty cowboy with the instructions here can lead to success on this problem. I had flown the drone a few days before and even after charging all night the battery was only reading 17% and quickly fell to 2% with the app bleeping at me like crazy to stop the flight. I haven't plugged it in to the power source since that flight but after the reflow here I put the app on the controller and it says the battery is at 100%.

Hopefully the fix sticks. Thanks again for everyone who took the time to document their educated experimentation in this are.

I guys i has the sale problem  with mi RC por ph4 pro, once applied  the reflow process everything más ok, charging normally..but trying to use  dji go 4 the app in the top bar say: aircraft  disconnected más black screen, but i can move the gimbal  and turn  on  the engines...please help me

I put the RC in the congelator for about 30 minutes. When I reconnect on the charger the 4 led flashing for five minutes and indicates full charge after. OK for the moment. Try this

Jguy Posted at 11-25 17:15
I put the RC in the congelator for about 30 minutes. When I reconnect on the charger the 4 led flashing for five minutes and indicates full charge after. OK for the moment. Try this

What is a 'congelator'?

I speak french.   
Congelator  =    (Top of Fridge)  

A class action should be brought against DJI.

I had the same issue with my remote, I’d like to add the total amount and kinds of models I have,

2x Phantom 4 complete with DJI backpack and three batteries each with many other extras.

1x fly more combo Spark with extras.

1x fly more combo platinum Mavic with extras

1x Phantom 3 STD with backpack, batteries and extras.

All together I believe my expenses total more than $8000.00.


So I am writing this review and follow up as I’m still dealing with DJI with a complaint case.

At first my initial reaction to the remote not charging was to search it on the web to see if there was a fix to the problem. As I encountered many people having the same issue it became clear this is ongoing and not just a one off issue.

Many people are calling DJI to get there remote controls fixed like myself because let’s face it, not everyone can reflow the connection points just on a whim. Just waiting to get a refund as this issue seems to have hundreds of victims and maybe a class action lawsuit?

Geebax Posted at 11-25 19:24
What is a 'congelator'?

I speak french.   
Congelator  =    (Top of Fridge)  

I have the exact same problem right now, and DJI is only telling me to discharge it to 5% and try connecting it to the drone with a different battery. I did but it still doesn’t work and they don’t want to take it in to fix it

Same issue for me, will not charge, just blinks the first led for hours when I connect the charger.