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Why You Should Avoid Using Auto Exposure
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18636 91 2018-2-6
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W.T. Foxtrot Posted at 2018-2-12 10:17
Nicely done.   Appreciate you sharing.

Absolutely. Thanks for watching.
2018-2-13
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stevewalksman Posted at 2018-2-12 02:56
Nice Video. Thanks for sharing it here.

For sure, thanks for taking a look.
2018-2-13
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KREMi Posted at 2018-2-11 07:18
nice material - way better when You see changes while some1 talks+shows then just talks

Yeah, absolutely. It was a bit more effort to shoot it on the Spark but I thought it was a good way to get the point across. I was actually surprised looking at the footage later just how much the exposure was fluctuating all the time.
2018-2-13
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KREMi Posted at 2018-2-11 07:18
nice material - way better when You see changes while some1 talks+shows then just talks

Yeah, absolutely. It was a bit more effort to shoot it on the Spark but I thought it was a good way to get the point across. I was actually surprised looking at the footage later just how much the exposure was fluctuating all the time.
2018-2-13
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Henry-M Posted at 2018-2-11 02:00
Very nice and informative video  thank you

Thanks for watching!
2018-2-13
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Smark
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Thank you, sir!
2018-2-13
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DamoSimp
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The app has a app has a tap lock/unlock for holding an auto exposure setting and can, be quite useful also. I find it really hard to make a manual setting that works well from the ground, because the light changes a lot once I’m up and away, so the auto lock can help speed up changes to different environments and then holding them for a more consistent result. It’s still not as good as a finely tuned manual setting, but fast and consistent when grabbing quick shots.
2018-2-18
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DamoSimp Posted at 2018-2-18 04:41
The app has a app has a tap lock/unlock for holding an auto exposure setting and can, be quite useful also. I find it really hard to make a manual setting that works well from the ground, because the light changes a lot once I’m up and away, so the auto lock can help speed up changes to different environments and then holding them for a more consistent result. It’s still not as good as a finely tuned manual setting, but fast and consistent when grabbing quick shots.

I did not mention it in the video because I don't tend to use it but, yeah, that's a great idea. As you mention, it's really about getting a "consistent result". There is always more than one way to do it. :-)
2018-2-18
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Octovisuals
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Interesting. As a professional videographer, I can guarantee autoexposure is never a good thing, quality-wise.
2018-2-21
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IamWedge
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FYI I also posed this question you your YouTube channel.     Steve, great video! Thanks for the explanation. Ive heard people say set to 100 ISO.  When im flying the last thing i think about is trying to control the camera in manual. Yes Id like better quality. How do I set up on the ground? Im shooting 4K @ 30FLS 100 ISO Im also using Polar Pro ND4 or 8 or 16 PL Filters. Ive watched the histogram as I adjust the filter. Should I worry about adjusting the Shutter and Aperture or do I just change the value on the  EV (Expose value) or MM in Manual ? This is where im lost. LOL I know, a lot to take in.
2018-2-22
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IamWedge Posted at 2018-2-22 00:44
FYI I also posed this question you your YouTube channel.     Steve, great video! Thanks for the explanation. Ive heard people say set to 100 ISO.  When im flying the last thing i think about is trying to control the camera in manual. Yes Id like better quality. How do I set up on the ground? Im shooting 4K @ 30FLS 100 ISO Im also using Polar Pro ND4 or 8 or 16 PL Filters. Ive watched the histogram as I adjust the filter. Should I worry about adjusting the Shutter and Aperture or do I just change the value on the  EV (Expose value) or MM in Manual ? This is where im lost. LOL I know, a lot to take in.

Thanks. That's a *BIG* question - haha. I am currently working on my next video, which is going to be talking in more detail about setting exposure, so have a look out for that in the next few days. In the meantime here are a few thoughts.

General rule of thumb: lowest possible ISO is best - less noise. If you're shooting at 30fps, then your optimal shutter speed is 1/60th of a second for the most "natural" motion blur (180 degree shutter rule). To maintain that constant shutter speed of 1/60th, you're left with three variables: ISO, Aperture and an ND filter.

As per my video, the primary reason to stay away from AUTO is to avoid exposure fluctuations. If you use auto exposure (AE), even if you lock auto exposure, you have no control over the ISO/shutter/aperture combination the software chooses. If you want the optimum shutter speed of 1/60th (for 30fps) you will need to use manual exposure.

So how do you set your exposure? You use the camera's metering system and the histogram as your guide. Set your camera to manual, set the shutter speed to 1/60th. Now make sure you're in the light you'll be shooting in and point the drone at a middle toned scene - grey concrete, beige sand beach, even the palm of your hand for caucasian folks - fill the frame. Adjust the aperture, ISO and/or add an ND filter until the camera's meter reads 0.0 and the histogram is lumped in the middle - all mid tones. That's your starting exposure. During flight you may have to tweak depending on changing conditions. The more you practice setting exposure the quicker and more accurate you will become.

Maintaining the 1/60th shutter makes it a pain in the butt and is really what necessitates the need for ND filters. And really, if there is no motion happening, then who cares about 1/60th? You won't see it.

If you're dropping the need to maintain the "optimal" shutter speed, then you can pretty much drop manual exposure. Switch to AE, let the camera pick a starting exposure using the technique described above and lock the exposure - you *MUST* lock it. Use EV (exposure compensation value) to tweak it on the fly. This works even while locked.

Be sure to set manual white balance too. You don't want the colour fluctuating either.

A quick and dirty answer but I hope it was helpful. It's a *BIG* topic.
2018-2-22
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IamWedge
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SCoutts Posted at 2018-2-22 08:38
Thanks. That's a *BIG* question - haha. I am currently working on my next video, which is going to be talking in more detail about setting exposure, so have a look out for that in the next few days. In the meantime here are a few thoughts.

General rule of thumb: lowest possible ISO is best - less noise. If you're shooting at 30fps, then your optimal shutter speed is 1/60th of a second for the most "natural" motion blur (180 degree shutter rule). To maintain that constant shutter speed of 1/60th, you're left with three variables: ISO, Aperture and an ND filter.

Thanks SCoutts, That's more of an explanation than I was expecting. Thanks for going that extra mile... and then some. I appreciate it.
2018-2-22
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Rustic17
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When you say "if there is no motion taking place" are we trying to solve for motion on the ground (cars, animals, etc) or motion of the drone (horizontal/vertical panning or forward/backward movement) with the 180 rule???  
2018-2-22
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Rustic17 Posted at 2018-2-22 11:36
When you say "if there is no motion taking place" are we trying to solve for motion on the ground (cars, animals, etc) or motion of the drone (horizontal/vertical panning or forward/backward movement) with the 180 rule???

In an effort simply a big topic, I was referring to motion on the ground but it actually does apply to drone movement as well. Depending on drone height and speed, and your creative objective, you may want a faster or slower shutter speed to minimize or maximize motion blur. The "180 degree shutter rule" (double the frame rate) has been around for a long time and is a good starting point to get a "look" most of us are used to seeing. Creatively though, you're in charge, so you can make it anything you want. It's just good to know how your exposure choices, specifically shutter speed and aperture, will impact the look of your footage. :-)
2018-2-22
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Artur Macau
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Great information, i haven't played much with manual settings, usually because im afraid wasting too much battery time while adjusting settings, i need to practice a lot more, and this video definitely helps, thank you

2018-2-22
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Artur Macau Posted at 2018-2-22 17:19
Great information, i haven't played much with manual settings, usually because im afraid wasting too much battery time while adjusting settings, i need to practice a lot more, and this video definitely helps, thank you

Thanks! With a bit of practice adjusting the settings can be done quite quickly and the quality of your footage will definitely improve. :-)
2018-2-23
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fans976bffbb
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Good video!
2018-2-24
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W.T. Foxtrot
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Thanks. Sure this will help a lot of people.
2018-2-26
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W.T. Foxtrot Posted at 2018-2-26 18:37
Thanks. Sure this will help a lot of people.

Welcome. Yeah, I hope it is helpful.
2018-2-27
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MFPullen
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Very well done.  Something everyone should watch
2018-3-4
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aikona
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Thanks, I never really realized why exactly it's a bad choice!




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2018-3-5
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Rustic17
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I have been practicing with the Auto Exposure Lock and find that if I have a bright area in one part of the screen and double tap on it the exposure changes...like wise, if I tap on a dark area the exposure changes. It seems to average the exposure requirement for the area within the circle formed when you first double tap. What this tells me is you have to be careful where you double tap on the screen.  It doesn't take the auto exposure setting for the whole screen and lock it...only that area around which you double tap.   I had the Spark on my dining table looking across the room to sliding glass doors. It was bright outside with about 1/2 sky filling the screen. If I double tapped on the glass doors the shutter speed increased and iso decreased from the original auto exposure setting. The furniture in the room became very underexposed. If I double tapped on the furniture, vice versa.   I was under the impression the auto lock would lock the present exposure settings leaving you the EF to adjust if necessary.  I now find that using the Function Button set on Auto Exposure Lock works better at locking the exposure set for the whole screen (just like the OP did in his video)....then I can tweak it with the EF.  Remember when initiating Auto Exposure Locked you will momentarily get the message...turning off you don't get anything.
2018-3-6
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Rustic17 Posted at 2018-3-6 09:22
I have been practicing with the Auto Exposure Lock and find that if I have a bright area in one part of the screen and double tap on it the exposure changes...like wise, if I tap on a dark area the exposure changes. It seems to average the exposure requirement for the area within the circle formed when you first double tap. What this tells me is you have to be careful where you double tap on the screen.  It doesn't take the auto exposure setting for the whole screen and lock it...only that area around which you double tap.   I had the Spark on my dining table looking across the room to sliding glass doors. It was bright outside with about 1/2 sky filling the screen. If I double tapped on the glass doors the shutter speed increased and iso decreased from the original auto exposure setting. The furniture in the room became very underexposed. If I double tapped on the furniture, vice versa.   I was under the impression the auto lock would lock the present exposure settings leaving you the EF to adjust if necessary.  I now find that using the Function Button set on Auto Exposure Lock works better at locking the exposure set for the whole screen (just like the OP did in his video)....then I can tweak it with the EF.  Remember when initiating Auto Exposure Locked you will momentarily get the message...turning off you don't get anything.

It works differently between the picture and video modes. In video mode, it always does evaluative metering, which means it evaluates the whole scene and averages it out. In picture mode, it does spot metering. Wherever you touch on the screen is where it sets exposure so it can be markedly different based on the scene and where you touch to set your exposure.
2018-3-6
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aikona Posted at 2018-3-5 15:04
Thanks, I never really realized why exactly it's a bad choice!

Haha! Honestly I was quite surprised to see just how much it fluctuated in the video. :-)
2018-3-6
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MFPullen Posted at 2018-3-4 06:18
Very well done.  Something everyone should watch

Thanks! Glad it is helpful.
2018-3-6
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Rustic17
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Okay...I must have been in picture mode...thanks!!!  I still like your technique...it also protects against an inadvertent tap on the screen which would cancel the lock...or can that still happen using the Function button...in lock with button but tap screen inadvertently???
2018-3-6
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2018-3-6
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Rustic17
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Once locked in video mode do you think it will stay locked going to picture mode???
2018-3-6
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scruffs dad
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great video
2018-3-7
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Rustic17 Posted at 2018-3-6 23:21
Once locked in video mode do you think it will stay locked going to picture mode???

Auto exposure lock does not stay "locked" between photo and video modes. However, if you manually set your exposure, it will be retained as you switch between photo and video.
2018-3-7
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Rustic17 Posted at 2018-3-6 09:46
Okay...I must have been in picture mode...thanks!!!  I still like your technique...it also protects against an inadvertent tap on the screen which would cancel the lock...or can that still happen using the Function button...in lock with button but tap screen inadvertently???

Even though the function button is set, the screen will still lock/unlock autoexposure. While making the video I had inadvertently but it out of lock a few times. I like the feature, it's quick and easy but it does have drawbacks. Manual mode is always going to be your best friend. :-)
2018-3-7
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Rustic17 Posted at 2018-3-6 09:46
Okay...I must have been in picture mode...thanks!!!  I still like your technique...it also protects against an inadvertent tap on the screen which would cancel the lock...or can that still happen using the Function button...in lock with button but tap screen inadvertently???

Even though the function button is set, the screen will still lock/unlock autoexposure. While making the video I had inadvertently but it out of lock a few times. I like the feature, it's quick and easy but it does have drawbacks. Manual mode is always going to be your best friend. :-)
2018-3-7
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Leftyguy
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Very Nice & informative!
2018-3-7
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Rustic17 Posted at 2018-2-6 22:55
So, do you try to figure the manual exposure settings before takeoff or do you launch and set them airborne eating up battery power?  And does looking at a small mobile phone screen in sunlight really allow you to see what adjustments need to be made?  I'm just trying to figure out the feasibility of setting manual adjustments.  Or do you have favorite manual settings you always use (or start with) for certain lighting conditions that are tried and true that you know will work?

You can use histogram.
2018-4-29
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Carmenvail
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Thank you very helpful.
2018-7-29
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Charissa
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Informative video.
2018-7-29
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nixuspix
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Thanks a lot for extremely useful info
2019-1-9
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JhonWick
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Hey I loved the way you shared the valuable information with the community.
2019-1-16
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Very nice and revealing demo about the relationship of the settings we have available in the Spark. I am glad to see your simple approach to show how the auto setting "does its thing"...Thank You for sharing!

As you can see, this opens up quite a discussion with a lot of questions from people but I think you have done a great job showing the actual differences in real time.

As mentioned, it really is a matter of practice and trial and error to get those settings adjusted even on a "real" camera so trying to find a sweet spot on a drone with the ever-changing lighting while moving is a real task, but rewarding!
2019-1-17
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MikB Posted at 2018-2-7 01:55
Very clear presentation. Superb. Thanks for taking the time to share it with us.

Great inquiry! I as of now don't have ND channels however they are on the rundown. Most ND channels do include a touch of shading predisposition, so it's best to smd screen and smd video wall set your WB with them introduced. I generally utilize manual white parity just to keep away from any changes in shading.
2019-1-18
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