Alexei Merinov
Second Officer
Flight distance : 4796509 ft
Vietnam
Offline
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The simplest way is to do 360 panos in the DJI Go4 application. But the results did not greatly rejoice.
Here about the "beautiful and very detailed" 200 Mp panoramas from Mavik.
They are so large and detailed that they are able to "swallow" not all resources - only 360cities and some more.
For SkyPixel and Google Maps, the result is forced to worsen ....
At the request of colleagues - as I do 360-panoramas. Including - how do I add the sky!
Here's the video for half an hour )))...
https://youtu.be/Ca4PnwS7IvU
I'm not a professional and I used the programs that I had on my computer.
It is likely that all procedures can be done in one program, I just do not know.
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Here is a small (~30) catalog of the sky,
https://cloud.mail.ru/public/2vVt/fvWBSXush
which completely closes the problem.
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Compare the result, please:
1. Without processing (from jpeg),
https://www.skypixel.com/photos/olymp-3-n-skypixel?utm_source=copied&utm_medium=PCWeb&utm_campaign=share&sp=0
2. with processing in one stage
https://www.skypixel.com/photos/olymp-0-n-skypixel?utm_source=copied&utm_medium=PCWeb&utm_campaign=share&sp=0
3. and processing in two stages.
https://www.skypixel.com/photos/olymp-1-n-skypixel?utm_source=copied&utm_medium=PCWeb&utm_campaign=share&sp=0
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And, most importantly - how it looks on Google Maps and Google Street View
and on 360cites
and virtual 360-tour on Klapty==================
Below, the recommendations of our colleague regarding the preparation of the camera and the choice of exposure. I suppose this is very useful
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Firstly we're talking still photos here so you never ever want to use an ND. They'll just reduce the light getting to the sensor meaning an increased iso (so increased noise) and/or reduced shutter speed (so more blurring) in the image.
For added chaos, you really dont want to use a CPL for wide angle stuff like panoramas or 360s as it'll cause uneven darkening of the sky and the image will look patchy.
So step 1, make sure you're not using these filters.
Now onto the main question.
DJI Go 4 has a bug with the MP in 360s in that it takes the photos so quickly the exposure doesnt have time to settle between shots.
This means that on shots with a bright sky (haze, low sun angle etc) you'll get some hideously over exposed areas and the image is awful.
Its OK for dull skies but not bright.
Due to another bug you cant just set EV bias to counter it as it ignores that.
So the only real way to do it is to use manual exposure, select manual, point the drone at what will be the brightest part of the image (usually the sun or sky) and adjust the exposure so that its over exposed a bit but NOT burnt out (use histogram or zebras). Then take the 360.
Litchi takes the images slower so the exposures are OK but i dont really like it as an app. Your choice though - both will work.
This means the image will not have over exposed bits. The ground and other bits will be dark originally but software will fix this.
Do it that way and the software will stitch it together.
OR to get a better version, take the shots as DNG, convert them to TIFF and download the free Microsoft Image Composite Editor (Microsoft ICE). This will automatically stitch a panorama from the 34 initial files. An added bonus you can then load this into photoshop or image editor of choice and correct any exposure and brightness errors.
So summary. No filter, No ND for stills ever, no CPL for wide angle stuff.
Use MANUAL exposure set to the brightest bit of the image (over but not burnt out).
Optional:- Use ICE to produce a high res image. Or just let Go4 stitch it.
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My SkyPixel: https://www.skypixel.com/users/a ... f-a1d9-697e3c58e0a6
My YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/1469alex/videos?view_as=subscriber
My 360-cities: https://www.360cities.net/profile/alex_krr
My ShStock: https://www.shutterstock.com/g/A ... e=ctrbreferral-link
My Klapty (best for 360-tours): https://www.klapty.com/profile/klapty1584352330#portfolio
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