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lvl.2
Flight distance : 605787 ft
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Basically, there are 2 things to be solved to compensate Earths rotation:
-in case you create an equatorial kind of mount, You need to be able to set the pan axis pointing to Polaris (ok, those ~0.5° distance to real N wouldn't be a big issue by using not so big focal lengths and long exposures). The benefit is, just one axis motion needed for tracking. Drawback - the easiest way to get to this is just to buy an astro mount (by far most of amateur-enthusiast mounts are equatorial). And, futher, if You dive in astrophotography, the mount is the most important investment. But, for just a SLR caliber camera, there are quite affordable options .
-in case You use Ronin as Alt-Az mount (which, basically, it is), the challenge is to be able to precise set the horizontal component of rotation speed (in Ronin App UI, there's no option to manually put in speed in degrees/hour or smth like that. Second task would be to set the vertical (which is even harder – depends both on direction and heigth above the horison etc). Tehnically, its doable (there are beginner/kids-targeted alt-az Go-To mounts in ~250 price range
-and the hardest part would be to compensate the FOV rotation, if You want to use longer exposures.
So, in short: Ronin-S is preciselly targeted tool, which is meant and engineered for stabilisation. Yes, there is some minor potential for astrophotography, but take it in creative plane – You basically can use exposition long enough for Milky Way and similar wide- or mid-angle astrophotos w/o need to track anything, and Ronin Timelepse mode can add some movement to Your Nightscape timelapse, which is great (the easy way is to divide 500/f to get the max spot star exposure for particular focal length).
But, if You are looking for deep-space/big focal length astrophotography, there's no other way, than to go for real astro-mounts, OTA's, autoguiders etc.
And, if You go further, specialized cameras u.o. stuff.
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