I've seen videos of people getting the Force Pro to work properly with the Ronin-S. My question is HOW? It's movements are inverted, making it basically worthless... I figured out how to disable the roll axis, which was wildly annoying, but still can't get it to turn the proper direction. For anyone who has achieved this.. how?

Hi there!

In order to correct the invertet axis problem you have to use the app. You cannot invert the axis from the settings on the force pro controller.

What I did was to lauch the ronin app on my iPhone, connect the Ronin-S and go to the control settings where you can also assign the different channels. There you find the 3 axis on top. On the right there is an option you can tap to toggle the direction of the corresponding axes.

However I have another problem - perhaps you can help me with. I so far was unable to get a 1:1 reaction working. The user manual states that you had to set all knobs to 65. However this did not work for me. Have you had any luck with this?

Regards
Norbert

Thank you! Got that all sorted.

Yes, in fact I have been able to get it close to accurate in terms of 1:1. The trick that I've found is to make sure that you have all your settings in the app set to NUMBERS (not LOW / MEDIUM / HIGH). When I set things to numbers via the CUSTOM setting, I was able to get the knobs to work (and thus the speed adjustments). This, effectively, allowed me to reset the speed (from the very slow default) to something that more closely matches. Again, you have to do this from the iOS app first, and once the "Control Settings" are all set to numbers, they appear on the Force Pro and any adjustments on the Force Pro are mirrored in the app.

Let me know if this works for you!

adamjrichman Posted at 2018-8-17 18:02
Thank you! Got that all sorted.

Yes, in fact I have been able to get it close to accurate in terms of 1:1. The trick that I've found is to make sure that you have all your settings in the app set to NUMBERS (not LOW / MEDIUM / HIGH). When I set things to numbers via the CUSTOM setting, I was able to get the knobs to work (and thus the speed adjustments). This, effectively, allowed me to reset the speed (from the very slow default) to something that more closely matches. Again, you have to do this from the iOS app first, and once the "Control Settings" are all set to numbers, they appear on the Force Pro and any adjustments on the Force Pro are mirrored in the app.

Great! Thanks a lot for this. You saved my day! Got it up and running now with 1:1 ratio and also the knobs seem to work.

But now I ran into another problem. I've mounted the force pro together with a wireless video receiver and a monitor on a fluid head on a tripod. The Ronin-S is attached to a cable cam. After a frist quick test everthing seems o.k. and I've never done remote pan and tilt operations so intuitively.

-- But -- If I do a really slow pan or tilt, the Ronin-S just doesn't do anything.

It feels as if the Force pro simply cannot detect a slow movement. Can you confirm this behaviour with you Force pro or is it something I could set in the app?

Regards,
Norbert

Thanks to you again I figured out the "Force pro unable to detect slow movement problem." At first I suspected the deadband settings might cause this behaviour so I set pan and tilt deadband to zero - which did not change anything. However --> I used the Force pro controller to alter the settings. And again this had no effect because the deadband settings in the App still hadn't been changed to numeric values.
So I just changed the deadband settings inside the app to numeric values, set pan and tilt deadband to zero and it all works like a charm. Even the slowest movement is detected by the Force pro controller now.

Yup! I was going to suggest the same. I also am running the Ronin-S with a Teradek. Got the Teradek balanced above the lens on my setup.

Glad you found it though. Another odd note, on the Force Pro you may find 5 USER settings and one Default. Default corresponds to User-1 on the Ronin-S. User1 = Ronin-S User 2, and User3 = Ronin's User 3. If you set the Force Pro to User3, 4 or 5, it will instantly kill the motors because it has no profile to correspond to. Be careful.

I've set user 1 (default on the Force Pro) as good settings for Gimbal-only use, user 2 for the Force Pro when used "handheld" aka attached to a 703 Bolt, and user 3 for tripod use. For tripod use, as you found out, I've set deadband super low, 1 to 3 works well.

These two devices presented an incredibly frustrating experience before sorting all this out. Took like 3 days of prep. Insane that there is 0 literature about this. I may make a video / blog post so everyone else can get up and running faster.

Thanks for the warning on the user profiles problem. Definitly not something you want to find out during a shooting...

If you also try to figure out how  to get the DJI Focus motor working on the Ronin-S - just say so. DJI support sent me an instruction PDF on this...

My next plan is to get my Nucleus-M follow focus motor mounted and balanced on the kit.. the problem is that there's no way to power it until I can get a cable made that goes out the 12V/2A connection in the front. Right now one of those connections is powering the Force Pro, so the other needs to be come a 4-pin to p-tap multi (or even single p-tap). It's absurd that there are no power cables available yet.

But yea, I find that little focus wheel to be useless. Doesn't work on most cameras, and is a total bitch to actually control while operating the gimbal. Good idea, bad execution, mostly used for marketing buzz IMHO.

adamjrichman Posted at 2018-8-22 13:42
My next plan is to get my Nucleus-M follow focus motor mounted and balanced on the kit.. the problem is that there's no way to power it until I can get a cable made that goes out the 12V/2A connection in the front. Right now one of those connections is powering the Force Pro, so the other needs to be come a 4-pin to p-tap multi (or even single p-tap). It's absurd that there are no power cables available yet.  

But yea, I find that little focus wheel to be useless. Doesn't work on most cameras, and is a total bitch to actually control while operating the gimbal. Good idea, bad execution, mostly used for marketing buzz IMHO.

I am planning something similar as you are doing ... would be nice to see some shots of your set up !

putting a dtap splitter in the loop sounds like a lot of cable clutter ... maybe make a adapter cable to the limo power connector on the nucleus .... just in the right length ?

I saw some new dji focus motor 2006 and some other new ronin s gear on another blog ... this new motor could bring exactly the cable you are looking for. But better build your own cable than waiting probably long time on the release ;)

anyway ... show us what you got cooking so far, we love to see !

Will do. I'm going to make a blog post about all the gotchas eventually. Just need to find the time.

Meanwhile, I ran some tests. DJI inappropriately advertises that each of those ports give you 2A when actually YOU ONLY GET 3.6A TOTAL from both. Which is yet another outrageous oversight.

I have a 4-pin to p-tap cable coming in the mail this week. Running a p-tap multi would be pointless because you likely wouldn't be able to get much more powered than a single item. I also have a 4-pin cable to 7-pin lemo getting made. DJI's lemo configuration is not the same as Tilta's, so those cables won't be compatible. I got the p-tap cables made before they are more universal, but yes, to your point, it is some cable clutter (thus the other one, as you already thought of).

The big question is will it be able to handle the power draw from two accessories. If not, I will be sorely disappointed. That'd be yet another mark of false advertising on DJI's part.  

nobbe42 Posted at 2018-8-18 02:13
Great! Thanks a lot for this. You saved my day! Got it up and running now with 1:1 ratio and also the knobs seem to work.

But now I ran into another problem. I've mounted the force pro together with a wireless video receiver and a monitor on a fluid head on a tripod. The Ronin-S is attached to a cable cam. After a frist quick test everthing seems o.k. and I've never done remote pan and tilt operations so intuitively.

Hi Norbert,

what cable cam are you using with the ronin s ? do you have any photos of your setup you can share ?

nobbe42 Posted at 8-18 02:49
Thanks to you again I figured out the "Force pro unable to detect slow movement problem." At first I suspected the deadband settings might cause this behaviour so I set pan and tilt deadband to zero - which did not change anything. However --> I used the Force pro controller to alter the settings. And again this had no effect because the deadband settings in the App still hadn't been changed to numeric values.
So I just changed the deadband settings inside the app to numeric values, set pan and tilt deadband to zero and it all works like a charm. Even the slowest movement is detected by the Force pro controller now.

Hi Norbert,

i had the same problem when operating the force from a tripod - the deadband was set way to high to pick up small input movements. I followed the advice and changed it to numeric numbers on the app and it works like a dream. But with that a new problem came up - the center gimbal command on c1 stopped working. I use the recenter button a lot so I am using the workaround to first shut off control with c2 and then press c1 to recenter what works. Is there any trick or solution to get it to recenter without turning of control first while having the deadband set to a low numeric number ? Do you have any explanation why it´s like this ?

adamjrichman Posted at 9-5 16:29
Will do. I'm going to make a blog post about all the gotchas eventually. Just need to find the time.  

Meanwhile, I ran some tests. DJI inappropriately advertises that each of those ports give you 2A when actually YOU ONLY GET 3.6A TOTAL from both. Which is yet another outrageous oversight.

Hi Adam,

i have the problem when operating the force from a tripod - the deadband was set way to high to pick up small input movements. I followed the advice and changed it to numeric numbers on the app and it works like a dream. But with that a new problem came up - the center gimbal command on c1 stopped working. I use the recenter button a lot so I am using the workaround to first shut off control with c2 and then press c1 to recenter what works. Is there any trick or solution to get it to recenter without turning of control first while having the deadband set to a low numeric number ? Do you have any explanation why it´s like this ?

adamjrichman Posted at 8-22 13:42
My next plan is to get my Nucleus-M follow focus motor mounted and balanced on the kit.. the problem is that there's no way to power it until I can get a cable made that goes out the 12V/2A connection in the front. Right now one of those connections is powering the Force Pro, so the other needs to be come a 4-pin to p-tap multi (or even single p-tap). It's absurd that there are no power cables available yet.  

But yea, I find that little focus wheel to be useless. Doesn't work on most cameras, and is a total bitch to actually control while operating the gimbal. Good idea, bad execution, mostly used for marketing buzz IMHO.

did you get your focus motor to power from the 12V/2A ?

i tried to use one of the front 12v outs of the ronin s to power the old dji focus motor with a custom dbus to dtap cable , also tried to power the blackmagic pocket 4k ... both not working. Anybody got some insight ? Got this working ?