fhagan02
 lvl.4
Flight distance : 1854908 ft
United States
Offline
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After a few flights now I'm starting to fine tune the camera settings, utilize strengths and find work arounds for weeknesses of the P3P's camera.
Shooting LOG is best as it allows a flatter image which gives me more dynamic range. Much more room to push and pull in post without dealing with crushed whites, blacks, saturation etc. The best, most fluid and natural video image capturing was accomplished when I could get the shutter rate down and still properly expose the image. The onscreen Histogram and EV meter is wonderful for this. For 24fps, 1/50th to 1/100th seems to work well. 1/50th is ideal.
Typical checklist for a "new" camera:
It's been cloudy so I've not seen any Chromatic Aberration what so ever. (That's the purple fringing on the edges of objects where very dark meets very bright. e.g. Bare, black very detialed tree limbs against a bright grey sky.) Perhaps shooting on brighter days will be a better indicator.
The Rolling Shutter (aka jello) is the easiest of these to adress. ND filters (soon to be out by a few companies) will remedy most of this issue. If I can get the shutter speed down to around 50-100th not only is rolling shutter eliminated the resulting footage is much more fliud with more natural cinematic movement. (To confirm this I simply cut out a circle from some .8 ND gel I had laying around, placed it inside the protective lens cover and screwed it back on the camera.) I've also balanced my props. The props straight out of the box are pretty close but not dead on balanced. (Only two of my props required a bit of light sanding to balance perfectly so hat's off to DJI as they were close right out of the box.)
Moire and Aliasing are going to be tricky. And trust me, unfortunately moire and aliasing are there without a doubt. (Moire occurs in any fine geometric pattern like shingles on a roof, brick walls and corrugated tin roofs of barns. Anything with a tiny parallel lined pattern. The pattern in the image appears to be moving, dancing, sparkling or morphing as the camera moves. Aliasing is when say a long thin line - like a power cable extending from one tower to the next - apprears to be stairstepped in pieces as it bends vs a single fluid continuous line.)
First turn the sharpness down to -2 (Under camera settings then "custom"). My tests indicate that -3 sharpness is actually dulling important detail like the leaves of tree tops, blades of grass in a field etc. Gives the footage a mushy quality vs clean detail. So it's a balance. Leaving the sharpness at the default "0" or above is.... well....horrible IMHO. Gives you a very "crispy video" look and actually exaggerates noise quite a bit. Even -1 was a bit too crispy on the edges of objects for my taste. You can alway adjust or add sharpness in post. I've found that allowing ANY camera to apply it's own, often way too heavy handed sharpening, to be dangerous. Once "crispy" it's in your footage... it's in your footage for good. If moire and aliasing are going raise thier ugly heads, in-camera sharpening with make it worse. Perhaps further firmware updates can remedy these issues. (Scanning through the Inspire 1 threads appears that firmware updates may have helped quite a bit.)
That's my two cents. Feel free to correct me, throw out your personal sollutions and observations. I'm always excited to learn something new....especially if I'm wrong or misinformed.
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lvl.1
New
lvl.3
Second Officer
- you will not get a A7S picture no matter what you do with this tiny sensor.