Image Quality Issues
1098 6 2018-12-31
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DJ_Fan
lvl.4
Flight distance : 617405 ft
United States
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For starters, I want you to know that I own two M2Ps, so what I'm about to say isn't throwing rotten eggs at DJI; but rather, it is merely to share my experiences and see if others can help.
I have been flying since September 2018 and after 157K feet of flying, I have finally come to the conclusion that the images produced by the M2P have some quality issues:
  • under regular lighting (bright lighting), the focusing at infinity does not seem desirable --- they are soft. I shoot at the lowest native ISO 100 and f/5.6. I'm a published semi-pro photographer.
  • under less bright conditions (prime light conditions, an hour after dawn or before dusk), the sensor is noisy in the dark areas. This is reproducible even in broad daylight but with a storm cloud approaching.
  • My application is mainly Landscape images and videos. I need and I crave for resolution. I use Lightroom and Aurora HDR and SkyLum Luminar3 for post-processing images. I use Apple Final Cut Pro X for videos.



I saw some videos in YouTube where people kept saying that the P4P are much higher in resolution and clarity and some even say that DJI uses a clustering algorithm to guess/average out the pixels before they are written into the file.


I wonder, just wondering, if such allegations are true and do these allegations apply to the Inspire2 series also? Are there any technical details available about how the pixel info are calculated and written the file for M2P vs Inspire2 ?


DJI Admins, if you have deeper information, please do share with us. I have sent one of the M2P back for re-evaluation by your techs to see if there are any focusing issues because this drone is particularly soft in its focus.





2018-12-31
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djiuser_jBXOnzT6p8Z1
Second Officer
Flight distance : 507087 ft
United Kingdom
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I have commented too a few times about quality concerns 're. Video footage of the MP2.

I agree that focusing probably needs to be executed repeatedly during a shot to guarantee accuracy. To rely on Infinity may not be enough.

A P4 or even Zoom seems to give sharper pictures straight out of the drone as well as more colour accurate rendering imho. Straight from  drone MP2 video looks sickly warm/yellow, lacking contrast and resolution/sharpness.

Perhaps I am expecting to much from the 1inch sensor and 'Hasselblad colour science' ?

I guess I am somewhat disappointed that at nearly £300 more than the Zoom I actually think the results of the cheaper drone could actually be better under many circumstances but low light.

I hope DJI can come up with a solution.
2019-1-1
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QUBO1234
lvl.2
United States
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I have found the MP2 still images sharp in the center and soft around the edges.  Also, the dynamic range is not so great for shadow detail.   However I am used to working with full frame sensors (on the ground) so probably not giving the MP2 lens/sensor a fair chance.     For such a wide angle lens focus should not be a critical factor.   Diffraction from too high an f-stop is probably more critical.  

My approach to improve image quality is to shot RAW +  jpeg with AEB (3 shots).   I review the jpegs to find the image I like, then adjust the 3 AEB images with a RAW editor, then use HDR to increase the dynamic range on the adjusted images.    Lots of work but the dynamic range and overall sharpness is improved without creating obvious artifacts.   I only do all this on certain images.  For simple posts to the web I'll just use the jpegs from the drone with some minor tweaks as needed.
2019-1-1
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Eric13
Second Officer
Flight distance : 13982031 ft
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Germany
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You never want to set focus manually to infinity - with any lens!
Since lenses need to work at a huge range of temperatures, they give the option to focus beyond infinity when setting it manually.

Use AF to focus on something distant, then switch to MF. That locks the focus for good.
Keep it that way - no matter if your are filming or taking photos.

That whole focussing option on drones with wide angle lenses shouldn't be there. It destracts the users.
That would only make sense when shooting ants at work...
2019-1-1
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DJ_Fan
lvl.4
Flight distance : 617405 ft
United States
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Just for clarifications, I was using AF all the time. I have never used MF.
2019-1-1
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Eric13
Second Officer
Flight distance : 13982031 ft
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Germany
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DJ_Fan Posted at 1-1 18:27
Just for clarifications, I was using AF all the time. I have never used MF.

My recommendation is not to use AF.
While taking photos: Whenever trigger is being pushed, the camera is re-focusing.
That results in a delay and the best opportunity for the shot can be missed.
Also it may happen that the camera is focusing back and forth in low light/low contrast scenarios,
resulting in even more delay.

There is no need for that hassle:
Focus on something in mid-range, switch to MF, don't touch the silder and be happy from there on :-)
2019-1-2
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gnirtS
First Officer
Flight distance : 5712575 ft
United Kingdom
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under regular lighting (bright lighting), the focusing at infinity does not seem desirable --- they are soft.


How are you focusing on infinity?  Are you physically tapping and focusing on something in the scene or are you just using the infinity marker on manual focus?
If its the latter then just like camera lenses costing many thousands of dollars, the infinity mark is not 100% accurate and in nearly all cases proper focus is slightly before or after that mark.  You can't simply drag to infinity and expect it to be in focus on any camera setup.

If its the former then provided theres enough contrast and the object is far enough away, the AF should be fine.

I shoot at the lowest native ISO 100 and f/5.6.


Well we still don't know what base ISO is for the M2.  Also, as a semi-pro you should probably be aware of diffraction.  On a small sensor like the mavic 2s, diffraction effects are going to start to become apparent at f5.6 and narrower so you need to shoot a wider aperture.  f/4 is about the sharpest you'll get.

under less bright conditions (prime light conditions, an hour after dawn or before dusk), the sensor is noisy in the dark areas. This is reproducible even in broad daylight but with a storm cloud


Again its normal, we're dealing with a small sensor for compact cameras here not the much much larger APS-C or full frame (or even 4/3rds).  So yes you'll get some ISO noise.  Generally though its fine and removed with a gentle drag of the NR sliders in the editing software.

2019-1-4
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