Hello dears! There is a problem with flickering light in dark shooting. Explain.
During shooting in low light with the "auto" mode, we lower the exposure to make less noise and grain. And automation instead of lowering ISO to 100, it leaves ISO 200 or even 400, but raises the shutter by 200 instead of the minimum, so the lights start to flicker.
Manual mode does not allow you to adjust the EV, and with the manual shutter mode auto-ISO still overexposes the picture and in the dark begins to grain and make noise.

It is necessary to add the ability to adjust EV even in manual mode. And the priority in auto mode is to make ISO, not the shutter.
Otherwise, it greatly limits the possibility of filming under different circumstances and prevents the implementation of artistic ideas.

Please bring this to the developers as it needs to be fixed as soon as possible. This is the most important setting when shooting. I think everyone here will support my opinion.


Best wishes!

By the way, forgot to add. In the firmware until January 30, auto-ISO worked fine without the shutter.

Have you checked the Pocket record mode is set for the correct mains frequency?

At any photo camera or video camera, manual itself is EV adjustment.  If the picture is overexposed, you need ND filters.

Ray-CubeAce Posted at 4-18 03:27
Have you checked the Pocket record mode is set for the correct mains frequency?

Agree, but not always working on LED lights, some flickers at different rate.

Use ND filters.  This isn't a DSLR camera.

Do you really think you need ND filters to shoot in the dark?
Auto-ISO overexposes the darkness, trying to highlight, and it turns out highlights the sand and noise. Applying the filter will add only noise.
Therefore, you need to be able to turn down the EV with a limited shutter and a minimum ISO, so that the darkness does not try to glow.

Ray-CubeAce Posted at 4-18 03:27
Have you checked the Pocket record mode is set for the correct mains frequency?

Absolutely! But understand, it does not matter whether the frequency is set correctly or not, if the shutter flickers at times faster than this frequency. When the auto shutter speeds above 120 flickers per second, the light of the lanterns begin to diverge from the shutter. That's the problem.

fansc8b3c992 Posted at 4-18 04:21
Absolutely! But understand, it does not matter whether the frequency is set correctly or not, if the shutter flickers at times faster than this frequency. When the auto shutter speeds above 120 flickers per second, the light of the lanterns begin to diverge from the shutter. That's the problem.

Understood.
So basically you have two problems then, yes?
Is it overexposure or underexposure you are trying to control as well as the flickering or perhaps motion blur?  
Also is it mixed lighting? As Oh-no suggests, sometimes certain types of dimmers are altering the frequency of lighting they control as the voltage to some types of lighting sometimes have to remain fixed. I have suffered on occasion from mixed lighting and had similar problems. Particularly stage lighting. So far I haven't found a reliable fix for that scenario no matter what camera I've used until you get to absurdly low shutter speeds and/or ISO values.
Can you give us a clue as to what you are trying to film? Is it a very high contrast scene or dark with dim lighting?  Do you have an example you could show?


[Edit].

Re-read your original post and understand your request now.

Makes sense.

Hello and good day. Thank you for sharing these information and your insights as well. Let me please forward this thread to our DJI R&D Team for further development of the DJI Osmo Pocket. Thank you for your valued support.

Ray-CubeAce Posted at 4-18 06:17
Understood.
So basically you have two problems then, yes?
Is it overexposure or underexposure you are trying to control as well as the flickering or perhaps motion blur?  

The problem is that automation begins to darken the picture with the shutter before completely lowering the ISO. That's all.

fansc8b3c992 Posted at 4-18 21:37
The problem is that automation begins to darken the picture with the shutter before completely lowering the ISO. That's all.

What software are you using to find a video files Exif data?
I ask because the only software I can find only gives me bit rate, file size, GOP structure etc. Nothing at all regarding ISO values or shutter speeds.

Yes, that is why I haven't used ahto mode for a long time, the solution is very easy even the auto mode of my cheap phone can do that, on my cheap phone I can simply lock the ISO and set the shutter speed to auto and bingo, no noisy picture any more! I wonder why the OP that worth twice the money of my cheap phone won't provide the function that most phone can do? Check you phone to see if it can do ISO lock and you will see what the post is talking about.

Ray-CubeAce Posted at 4-19 03:22
What software are you using to find a video files Exif data?
I ask because the only software I can find only gives me bit rate, file size, GOP structure etc. Nothing at all regarding ISO values or shutter speeds.

What's the software got to do with it? Did you really not understand the essence of the problem? All parameters are displayed in real time during shooting. I immediately see how the auto mode works and what it regulates.
So let me repeat: When set to ISO 200 suddenly increases the shutter speed instead of 25 (when shooting 25P) to 50 and even 100. However, this is not correct, because first the ISO should drop completely to 100 and only then, if there is not enough darkening, the shutter should accelerate. Now it happens at ISO 400 it may be shutter speed 160-200, and this is a completely broken shot. That's what happened to me. At shutter speeds above 120, any LEDs will flicker on any Hertz installation.

ISO with 1/2 or 1/3 stop increments will be better.