High above the village, Moustiers' 14th-century church clings to a cliff ledge like an eagle’s nest. A steep trail climbs beside a waterfall to the chapel, passing 14 stations of the cross en route. High above, a 227m-long chain bearing a shining gold star is stretched between the cliff walls – a tradition, legend has it, begun by the Knight of Blacas, in return for his safe return from the Crusades.