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What f/stop is good for sharpness all around?
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5336 50 2019-6-14
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KEJ
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Good explanation of all things.
https://www.heliguy.com/blog/201 ... -drone-photography/

And remember basics/physics of how a camera lens works, also if the aperture plays no part in all of this why is the aperature fixed on AEB ?
So usually you dont want to mess with the ISO on AEB because of noise and you want different exposures, aperature is fixed for the reasons shown out of focus areas, so the only thing you can really change is the shutter speed to effect how much light you get or don't get.

Capt Labroides has a point that if you are focused well into a landscape or whatever at 1/2 mile away, then most of the area infront and behind etc will also probably be in focus, but I would still expect the extremes not to be.







Screenshot 2019-06-17 at 12.51.52.png
2019-6-17
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AntDX316
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I just shoot in Auto.  I can't risk having a blurry image.  I just take shots once in the air and Every time, well 98% it takes it sharp unless it's low light then the chances of a sharp image is like 80%.
2019-6-17
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KEJ
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AntDX316 Posted at 6-17 16:52
I just shoot in Auto.  I can't risk having a blurry image.  I just take shots once in the air and Every time, well 98% it takes it sharp unless it's low light then the chances of a sharp image is like 80%.

You should start playing with manual, I'm sure you have some free time or get there 30mins earlier.

Also have a read of this right through

https://forum.dji.com/thread-77939-1-1.html?pbc=mF6h4ZTt

2019-6-17
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Mark Weiss
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I myself tried manually setting the f stop to 5.6 and did one flight. The footage was soft, noticeably so. Ever since, I have left it on automatic, which consistently gives good resolution.
2019-6-18
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AntDX316
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Mark Weiss Posted at 6-18 18:07
I myself tried manually setting the f stop to 5.6 and did one flight. The footage was soft, noticeably so. Ever since, I have left it on automatic, which consistently gives good resolution.

I lower the EV if there are zebras.
2019-6-18
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Bashy
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I always use manual, i am far from a pro togger, but i did learn from the start that manual is the way to go. If youre not doing pano's, then there is no harm leaving the ISO on auto, i have moved away from that too for the most part, im ISO 100, 200 or 400, anything higher needed, i tend to stay at home....
I have never known soft images coming from the f-stop, maybe from the shutter speed, or should i say, the effect of, a very slight blur can give the impression that its soft, if you have issues with it looking soft, just raise the shutter speed, cause its either out of focus or shutter is too slow
2019-6-18
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KEJ
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Bashy Posted at 6-18 19:19
I always use manual, i am far from a pro togger, but i did learn from the start that manual is the way to go. If youre not doing pano's, then there is no harm leaving the ISO on auto, i have moved away from that too for the most part, im ISO 100, 200 or 400, anything higher needed, i tend to stay at home....
I have never known soft images coming from the f-stop, maybe from the shutter speed, or should i say, the effect of, a very slight blur can give the impression that its soft, if you have issues with it looking soft, just raise the shutter speed, cause its either out of focus or shutter is too slow

We live and learn thanks
2019-6-18
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Mark Weiss
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Shoot at very tiny apertures with the hopes of getting a sharp image overlooks an important factor, which is predominant with smaller sensors and irises: diffraction loss. As the aperture is reduced, there comes a point where resolution, or MTF (modulation transfer function) drops off. This is due to an optical phenomena known as diffraction. It's a zone at the edge of an aperture blade in which light bends around and it slightly distorted due to the influence of the edge. When the aperture size is small, this diffraction has a significant influence on the light getting through, resulting in softer images.
It is easy to demonstrate this with a DSLR camera that has a lens capable of a wide range of apertures down to f/22. Even adding light to compensate, so all other params are kept equal, image definition drops as the aperture reaches f/22.
The highest MTF numbers for typical DSLR lenses fall between f/4 and f/8, with a lot of lenses being sharpest around f/5.6.
A medium format 6x7 camera can get away with f/16 aperture and not loose much sharpness because the aperture blades are so much larger than the diffraction zone around each blade, which is fixed by the wavelengths of visible light. However, a tiny sensor camera will reach diffraction limiting with much lower f/stop numbers because the entire aperture assembly is much smaller.
2019-6-19
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AntDX316
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Mark Weiss Posted at 6-19 08:43
Shoot at very tiny apertures with the hopes of getting a sharp image overlooks an important factor, which is predominant with smaller sensors and irises: diffraction loss. As the aperture is reduced, there comes a point where resolution, or MTF (modulation transfer function) drops off. This is due to an optical phenomena known as diffraction. It's a zone at the edge of an aperture blade in which light bends around and it slightly distorted due to the influence of the edge. When the aperture size is small, this diffraction has a significant influence on the light getting through, resulting in softer images.
It is easy to demonstrate this with a DSLR camera that has a lens capable of a wide range of apertures down to f/22. Even adding light to compensate, so all other params are kept equal, image definition drops as the aperture reaches f/22.
The highest MTF numbers for typical DSLR lenses fall between f/4 and f/8, with a lot of lenses being sharpest around f/5.6.

Basically, you need to increase the shutter open duration when you lower the aperture size to keep it sharp but because the drone is in the air, it's not like being on a tripod on the ground.  The slight blur by increasing the shutter duration is also going to make it not sharp w/ a slight movement.  I assume a Ton of light would make a higher f/stop Better as the pixels can register to be more distinct and Bold.
2019-6-19
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Mark Weiss
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That would be motion blur which is a different thing than diffraction blur. And even at f/11, the shutter speed is still fast on a sunny day with no ND filter.
2019-6-22
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Alvaro L
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bookmark it !

https://forum.dji.com/thread-77939-1-1.html
2019-7-6
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