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Phantom 4 Pro V2.0 F/stop tests
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AntDX316
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https://drive.google.com/open?id ... VU4qfGW6M3fZPj159Ln

I'm not going through all this and making it fit the 2MB limit lmao
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DJI Gamora
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Hi, there. Thanks for sharing this information but unfortunately, we cannot access the link that you provided. You can try to repost the link for us to visit it. Thank you for your continued support. Cheers!
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AntDX316
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DJI Gamora Posted at 6-14 10:56
Hi, there. Thanks for sharing this information but unfortunately, we cannot access the link that you provided. You can try to repost the link for us to visit it. Thank you for your continued support. Cheers!

Looking at the pictures, it seems f/6.3 is the sharpest all around lol
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AntDX316 Posted at 6-14 14:03
Looking at the pictures, it seems f/6.3 is the sharpest all around lol

I already access the link that you provided. Thank you for sharing these awesome shots! Happy flying always. Cheers!
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AJC-W
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Very nicely done Ant
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AntDX316
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AJC-W Posted at 6-15 00:10
Very nicely done Ant

Which f/stop is better?  I think f/6.3..
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AntDX316 Posted at 6-15 01:35
Which f/stop is better?  I think f/6.3..

I tend to go with f4 myself for landscapes - where possible of course.
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AJC-W Posted at 6-15 01:42
I tend to go with f4 myself for landscapes - where possible of course.

f/6.3 looks the sharpest..
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AntDX316 Posted at 6-15 01:48
f/6.3 looks the sharpest..

The aperture doesn't control sharpness - it controls the iris of the lens to create shallow focus/depth of field and control exposure value.
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AJC-W Posted at 6-15 01:49
The aperture doesn't control sharpness - it controls the iris of the lens to create shallow focus/depth of field and control exposure value.

I know but I couldn't tell much difference between them all after f/4..  f/2.8 was really bad though.
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AntDX316 Posted at 6-15 01:54
I know but I couldn't tell much difference between them all after f/4..  f/2.8 was really bad though.

You'll also find lighting conditions play a massive part too
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AJC-W Posted at 6-15 01:56
You'll also find lighting conditions play a massive part too

Yeah, I think f/6.3 is the best it can get w/ the P4P V2.
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AntDX316 Posted at 6-15 03:19
Yeah, I think f/6.3 is the best it can get w/ the P4P V2.

Keep trying all of them in different light and scenery - you'll probably change your mind
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AJC-W Posted at 6-15 04:03
Keep trying all of them in different light and scenery - you'll probably change your mind

Exactly........

Rule of thumb, main subject in focus blurred background F2 etc, everything in focus F11.

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AJC-W Posted at 6-15 04:03
Keep trying all of them in different light and scenery - you'll probably change your mind

Yeah, but when I'm in the air I'm not taking 5 different settings.  I just take one and move the shot.  It's not like the drone has 5 different presets and does everything for you in 2 seconds.
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Thanks for sharing!
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Labroides
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KEJ Posted at 6-15 04:28
Exactly........

Rule of thumb, main subject in focus blurred background F2 etc, everything in focus F11.

Rule of thumb, main subject in focus blurred background F2 etc, everything in focus F11.
Forget your rule of thumb.
While it might be OK with a fast portrait lens, it doesn't apply to aerial shots with this camera.
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KEJ Posted at 6-15 04:28
Exactly........

Rule of thumb, main subject in focus blurred background F2 etc, everything in focus F11.

Precisely mate - there is no such thing as a 'perfect f-stop' or why have the other options to choose from...
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AntDX316 Posted at 6-15 04:43
Yeah, but when I'm in the air I'm not taking 5 different settings.  I just take one and move the shot.  It's not like the drone has 5 different presets and does everything for you in 2 seconds.

Try it out - then perhaps your may see improvements in your washed out images
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Labroides Posted at 6-15 06:33
Rule of thumb, main subject in focus blurred background F2 etc, everything in focus F11.
Forget your rule of thumb.
While it might be OK with a fast portrait lens, it doesn't apply to aerial shots with this camera.

Which then of course makes you wonder why they have that ability or option then ?

And whilst you could argue to control the shutter speed or light, the other consequence is the focal length.

So if I remember and the next time the weather is better for a flight I'll do a little test(wind and on/off showers).

But as I said, its a rule of thumb, I am not saying you must follow this to the letter else you will burn in hell!

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AJC-W Posted at 6-15 07:02
Precisely mate - there is no such thing as a 'perfect f-stop' or why have the other options to choose from...

I do agree, but in principle it does apply and consideration for the lens sweet spot.

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KEJ Posted at 6-15 08:13
I do agree, but in principle it does apply and consideration for the lens sweet spot.

That's the purpose of a VARIABLE aperture is it not - if f6 is the absolute perfect aperture as the OP seems to claim then surely the camera would be fixed on that f-stop. The reason we are presented with the option in choosing how open we want the iris of our camera to be is in order to align the aperture to the image we are hoping to create. There is no universal 'best' manual camera setting as environmental factors need to be taken into consideration such as light and obviously the artistic preferences of the photographer will differ too.
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Labroides Posted at 6-15 06:33
Rule of thumb, main subject in focus blurred background F2 etc, everything in focus F11.
Forget your rule of thumb.
While it might be OK with a fast portrait lens, it doesn't apply to aerial shots with this camera.

Not a proper test by any means.

Just did a quick test, back garden, focused on bird bath, house next door in background with TV aerials.

ISO 100, altered F stops and shutter speeds for correct exposure - pics 35meg each.

Test 1
Using Raw pics, zoomed in and compared, (possibly at almost pixel level) F11 may(really mean maybe) had the edge, possibly slightly clearer over F2.8.

Test 2
Different pic, picked a tree in the garden as focus and then zoomed in on houses in the background approx 1 miles away, really 50/50 and you could argue the F2.8 had the edge over F11.

Hopefully if I remember when the weather is better will try a real test.



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AJC-W Posted at 6-15 08:44
That's the purpose of a VARIABLE aperture is it not - if f6 is the absolute perfect aperture as the OP seems to claim then surely the camera would be fixed on that f-stop. The reason we are presented with the option in choosing how open we want the iris of our camera to be is in order to align the aperture to the image we are hoping to create. There is no universal 'best' manual camera setting as environmental factors need to be taken into consideration such as light and obviously the artistic preferences of the photographer will differ too.

I agree with everything you are saying.
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KEJ Posted at 6-15 09:00
Not a proper test by any means.

Just did a quick test, back garden, focused on bird bath, house next door in background with TV aerials.

Interesting findings - thanks for sharing KEJ
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Labroides Posted at 6-15 06:33
Rule of thumb, main subject in focus blurred background F2 etc, everything in focus F11.
Forget your rule of thumb.
While it might be OK with a fast portrait lens, it doesn't apply to aerial shots with this camera.

Basic tests, suggest you might have a point !

I'll have to give it a real go the next time I'm out.
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AJC-W Posted at 6-15 09:10
Interesting findings - thanks for sharing KEJ

;-). clear as mud!

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KEJ Posted at 6-15 09:34
;-). clear as mud!

A good test I did is when I pan the gimbal on the M2P to the far left the Mavic 2 print on the arm is blurred in f2.8 but in f11 it is crystal clear.
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AJC-W Posted at 6-15 09:51
A good test I did is when I pan the gimbal on the M2P to the far left the Mavic 2 print on the arm is blurred in f2.8 but in f11 it is crystal clear.

It is a hard one, obviously the aperture is having an effect.

And that's assuming what ever you focused for the first shot, you repeated.

I think I know a great place to test mine, an old light house and in the background the city.

The only problem is as you have said we all have a different spin on things, however, I will be interested for me to sit in front of that as the focus, then take a few shots as various F stops to see if anything in the background changes.

Then maybe some general city shots......to be continued.....thanks for replying
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KEJ Posted at 6-15 10:02
It is a hard one, obviously the aperture is having an effect.

And that's assuming what ever you focused for the first shot, you repeated.

.
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KEJ Posted at 6-15 09:31
Basic tests, suggest you might have a point !

I'll have to give it a real go the next time I'm out.

The only time you would ever have any concern about depth of field would be when you have a subject within 2 metres of the camera and still want background detail.
That's a very rare situation when shooting with a drone.
For almost all drone photography, the lens has more depth of field  than you will need, at any aperture.
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AJC-W Posted at 6-15 07:04
Try it out - then perhaps your may see improvements in your washed out images

It's washed out because it has to be corrected in Post.  It's on D-cinelike and raw.
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Labroides Posted at 6-15 16:51
The only time you would ever have any concern about depth of field would be when you have a subject within 2 metres of the camera and still want background detail.
That's a very rare situation when shooting with a drone.
For almost all drone photography, the lens has more depth of field  than you will need, at any aperture.

I am starting to think you are right and I suspect due to the greater distances involved generally when taking pictures or video in the first place as you are strictly speaking almost focusing more towards infinity anyway.

So if you focus on something 800m away, the chances are foreground(400m) and background(1500m) will all be in focus, although the greater the F Stop should still have an influence.

I am determine to investigate further on slightly closer objects with backgrounds..........to be continued and a good point to raise.

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KEJ Posted at 6-15 20:52
I am starting to think you are right and I suspect due to the greater distances involved generally when taking pictures or video in the first place as you are strictly speaking almost focusing more towards infinity anyway.

So if you focus on something 800m away, the chances are foreground(400m) and background(1500m) will all be in focus, although the greater the F Stop should still have an influence.
although the greater the F Stop should still have an influence.
No influence that makes any difference.
Here are some numbers to show what the actual effect is:
At f2.8 and focused at 50 feet - everything from 12ft - infinity is in focus
At f5.6 and focused at 50 feet - everything from 6ft - infinity is in focus
At f11 and focused at 50 feet - everything from 3ft - infinity is in focus

The lens on the P4 pro has a truckload of Depth of Field even at f2.8.
You won't ever have a DoF concern unless you are shooting subjects <2 metres away and want background detail.
Adjusting the aperture on the Phantom will change the DoF, but not as much as you might imagine.

For general aerial photography where everything in the picture is distant, it doesn't make much difference.

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AntDX316 Posted at 6-15 17:38
It's washed out because it has to be corrected in Post.  It's on D-cinelike and raw.

Since when did colour grading and profiles impact on exposure values? Hahaha
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Labroides Posted at 6-15 21:20
although the greater the F Stop should still have an influence.
No influence that makes any difference.
Here are some numbers to show what the actual effect is:

I was going to say, I think I agree with that.

I suppose if you are designing a drone, its not really for macro photography or closeups(always exceptions).

Weather still rubbish here(just for a change), but another small test, I think the lens in theory can focus from 1m.
So I placed my focus/calibration chart on the table(focused on that) and took two pictures at F2.8 and F11, I did expect pretty much the same, however, when you zoom in and look at the external light outside in the background, you can see that F11 is more clear, also the pattern on the table cloth.
Again not exactly scientific, but........all that said I suspect you are right the lens/camera has been optimised for greater distances.


I will still try a proper test at a later date & thanks for this info.


F2.8 & F11

F2.8 & F11

F2.8

F2.8

F11

F11
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KEJ Posted at 6-15 23:41
I was going to say, I think I agree with that.

I suppose if you are designing a drone, its not really for macro photography or closeups(always exceptions).

So I placed my focus/calibration chart on the table(focused on that) and took two pictures at F2.8 and F11
But you are never going to be focusing that close with your drone.
Indoor testing isn't going to show you what matters for drone photography.

Except in very rare cases, depth of field is completely irrelevant to drone photography with the Phantom.
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Labroides Posted at 6-15 16:51
The only time you would ever have any concern about depth of field would be when you have a subject within 2 metres of the camera and still want background detail.
That's a very rare situation when shooting with a drone.
For almost all drone photography, the lens has more depth of field  than you will need, at any aperture.

What aperture you use with not needing "any aperture"?
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AJC-W Posted at 6-15 21:59
Since when did colour grading and profiles impact on exposure values? Hahaha

You are supposed to dial that in, in post.  With higher-end cameras, you can run a low ISO then bring the ISO up in Lightroom vs having it brighter and having Massive noise at the camera.  Dialing that EV down in Post will keep the noise.
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AntDX316 Posted at 6-16 04:29
You are supposed to dial that in, in post.  With higher-end cameras, you can run a low ISO then bring the ISO up in Lightroom vs having it brighter and having Massive noise at the camera.  Dialing that EV down in Post will keep the noise.

Brightness, black points, brilliance, contrast etc are shadings of the overall lighting of the image in post. Exposure is the amount of natural light captured when taking the image. That is why you have separate saturation, contrast and sharpness settings in the camera profile totally separate to exposure value.
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