Ray-CubeAce
 lvl.4
United Kingdom
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Hi Roger.
I made a mistake in the settings I gave.
'Level' should be the lowest figure your software will allow. For me, that's 4.1.
The GOP structure should have fewer B frames in it. There is normally a list to choose from so try something with IPP... or similar.
'Level', is the number of times a frame is looked at and on each pass, the software will soften and take away some of the edge detail, so the lower that number, the better. Only useful to try to reduce noisy video footage but there are better ways to do that.
The Average bit rate and Maximum bit rate are linked in some kind of ratio I can't quite figure out but if you increase one by say, a third, then the other one also has to be increased by the same percentage or you may end up with at best, odd distortions or blank video output.
Be warned though that beyond a certain size from the original size , increasing bit rate produces really large files with little improvement on quality.
Coding Quality as high as it will go (For me that setting is labled 'Best') but the setting below that one (Better) is not far behind. 'Auto' can also work quite well and will reduce both rendering times and final file size. Interleaving is really for making files for DVD or BluRay use so that setting should set to Progressive. The GOP structure is three ways of producing a frame. In theory the I frames are direct copies if the bit rates of the coding match the original file. The problem is any editing that is not a straight cut may result in blank sections of video being produced. P frames are predictive. That means frames before the frame is looked at by the software and when fast action occurs or there are large portions of the frame that contain little detail, the software will reduce the file size of that frame by producing a frame with less detail around those areas to reduce overall file size. B frames look both forwards and backwards, and do the most compression of a frame so the less of those the better but having none can sometimes upset the sound synchronization.
Like I said, I'm still trying to find the numbers that seem to work best for me. If I ever get a definitive setting I'll put it up on the forum for others to try out.
I'm sure there are better ways and David Harry swears by using all 'I' frames but my system or software can't cope and mainly when I try that all I get is a blank video with a soundtrack.
I'm sorry if this is confusing more than helping but I'm almost as much in the dark as anyone else as to what to do for the best. Really I suspect a better, more powerful PC with better software would probably be the best answer but I'm limited on budget.
If when the file is rendered, use the program 'MediaInfo' to look at the video specs. It's a fee download. Go to any video file and right click it. Choose 'MediaInfo' from the list and you should get a program open up with the details of your video. Click the 'Tree View' button on the top tool bar. Look for the 'Format/Info' which should be something like High Efficiency Video Encoding and not read something like Blu-ray Video. Then you know the encoding is not recompressing by too much to retain most detail. That It seems is also read by YouTube and appears to me at least to have an effect on the final rendering on upload.
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Captain
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